RODI unit set up question

[zues2006]

Hello,

I've set up my RODI 5 stage unit from BRS to my kitchen sink. I haven't used a pressure booster. I am currently getting about 3 gallons per hour of filtered water with the current set up.
I don't have a TDS meter yet, or a pressure gauge. I plan on ordering VERY soon. Here is what my RO/DI unit is:

•4 stage RO unit
•Single DI stage with refillable cartridge
•75 GPD Dow Filmtec Membrane
•Purtrex 5 micron depth sediment filter
•MATRIKX CTO/2 5 micron carbon block
•MATRIKX+1 0.6 micron carbon block
•MUR-LOK Quick Connect (QC) dual EPDM O-Ring fittings
•Automatic shut-off valve
•1/4" QC drain clamp
•One MUR-LOK QC ball valve for easy on/off
•Filter wrench
•Self piercing saddle valve
•Chrome faucet connector
•Utility sink/garden hose adapter
•Murlok angle stop adaptor


My question is the following:
Regarding the stand alone filter (I'm assuming it's the carbon filter?)
Should the canister fill with water just like the 3 piece cannister unit?
I'm going to try to attach some pictures, but I don't think the pictures show that the stand alone cannister is not filling up with water. Water "appears" to be trickling into the cannister, and the filter is absorbing it, but the cannister itself is not filling up with water like the other 3 have filled up.

[tony53176]

I believe that stand alone canister is the DI filter, the water is trickling into it due to the flow from the RO membrane, water will flow normally through the first 3 canisters but as soon as the water hits the RO membrane it slows down dramatically because it is being separated by the membrane a lot of bad stuff goes out (down your drain) and very little good stuff comes out to you DI canister, it also all depends on your source pressure too but at 3 gallons per hour I'd say that's pretty good. I have an RO/DI unit but I'm on a well system so I'm only getting about 1-1.5 gallons per hour.

Anyone with more experience please correct me if I'm wrong.

[Mr. Wiggles]

The stand alone canister is your DI resin, and will not generally fill completely with water. Mine slowly turns brown from the bottom up as the DI becomes exhausted. Hope that helps.

[ZR1001]

Originally Posted by mr. Wiggles

the stand alone canister is your di resin, and will not generally fill completely with water. Mine slowly turns brown from the bottom up as the di becomes exhausted. Hope that helps.

+1

[zues2006]

thanks! makes me feel a lot better about my set up.

[Curtis.H]

Originally Posted by zues2006

Hello,


My question is the following:
Regarding the stand alone filter (I'm assuming it's the carbon filter?)
Should the canister fill with water just like the 3 piece cannister unit?
I'm going to try to attach some pictures, but I don't think the pictures show that the stand alone cannister is not filling up with water. Water "appears" to be trickling into the cannister, and the filter is absorbing it, but the cannister itself is not filling up with water like the other 3 have filled up.

It just has air trapped in it because of the slower flow rate. Lay it on it's side for a while and all of the air will be pushed out and it will fill with water. The water enters that chamber and flows down the outside of the cartridge and up thru the center to the outlet so it traps the air.

You could also take the canister off and fill it manually but that can get messy.

[zues2006]

Am I losing functionality of the last canister due to this?

Originally Posted by Curtis.H

It just has air trapped in it because of the slower flow rate. Lay it on it's side for a while and all of the air will be pushed out and it will fill with water. The water enters that chamber and flows down the outside of the cartridge and up thru the center to the outlet so it traps the air.

You could also take the canister off and fill it manually but that can get messy.

[whitemarlin]

if you want to get the di canister to fill, with the system off unscrew the canister to let the air be pushed out then turn on the system and as the canister fills to the top screw it closed.

[pscott99]

That doesn't look like colour changing DI resin to me. More like carbon. The colour changing resin will slowly fill and change colour from the bottom up as stated already and does not fill up really quick. I also am on a well and only get 1gph. My booster pump just arrived today yeh ! I hope that is resin or you are not getting 0 tds likely.

[disc1]

Originally Posted by zues2006

Am I losing functionality of the last canister due to this?

Absolutely not. It is only the outside where the water comes in that has air trapped. The water pushes back up through the cartridge in the middle where the resin actually is. The part in the middle will stay full of water even when the outside part isn't.

If it bothers you at all, just crack the housing open on that cartridge and let the air bleed out until it starts leaking water then tighten it back up.

[da_mob]

As far as the 3 gph...75 g /24 hours = 3.125 gph, so you are right on track I would say, so sounds like your pressure is good. I'm going to second the pressure gauge though. I have mine installed right before the RO membrane, and it will provide a good indicator of when pre-filters are starting to clog, from my understanding.

[ZR1001]

Originally Posted by disc1

Absolutely not. It is only the outside where the water comes in that has air trapped. The water pushes back up through the cartridge in the middle where the resin actually is. The part in the middle will stay full of water even when the outside part isn't.

If it bothers you at all, just crack the housing open on that cartridge and let the air bleed out until it starts leaking water then tighten it back up.

+1. As long as the resin is fully submerged the RO/DI system is working as designed.