125 Glass tank overflow options

El Mujadore · 01/20/2012, 04:02 PM

Hi, I have a 125gallon glass up and running since June 2011. Everything is going slow, steady, and great, except for one aspect. I was away for the holidays and a friend was housitting dogs and topping off water. It just so happens that is the time in which the aqualifter failed and a spill occurred

.

The CPR overflow is made so that I can only adjust the display tank water level at the upper limits of the tank, well above the black trim and viewable area. I have made a new glass sump with limited return area, so it will not overflow again, but still the concern of a pump burnout is not good.

So, I have been looking into U-tube models, such as the Eshopps pf 1200, as I have a 1200gph pump reduced by a ball valve "T" to increase flow in the refuge area of the sump.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

My question is how this device creates a siphon upon the power returning? Is it or any U-tube designs as reliable as the CPR, or should I save up for a non-tempered glass drilled tank?

billdogg · 01/20/2012, 04:05 PM

I would take a look at www.glass-holes.com - buy a kit and install it yourself. It is a slight bit riskier on a tank that is running, but can still easily be done. Are you sure yours is tempered?

zigzag1 · 01/20/2012, 07:35 PM

Ditch the CPR brand overflow. They are very failure prone. I had one many years back and spiked it in my driveway into a million pieces the second time it overflowed into the floor. It is simply a very very poor design.

Drilling the tank is a good solution. That being said - I still use a HOB overflow. I switched to an Eshopps brand overflow, which is the same design as the also recommended Lifereef overflow. The Lifereef and Eshopps are a much better design that isn't dependent on an aqualifter. They only need adequate flow and the will be reliable. I have used the Eshopp brand for more than 10 years, and I have two of them - and find them very reliable. JMTC & GL!

El Mujadore · 01/20/2012, 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billdogg

I would take a look at www.glass-holes.com - buy a kit and install it yourself. It is a slight bit riskier on a tank that is running, but can still easily be done. Are you sure yours is tempered?

Yes it says on bottom panel tempered glass do not drill. I do like the idea of the glass holes, and if I do replace the tank, it will be a drilled glass tank.

And Zig Zag, I agree and wanted to know how the eshopps brand would re-create siphon in the event of power failure, as CPR's is pretty well explained. If there is no pump to push water through the U tube, how does it re-establish?

PS i love lifereef stuff and someday will be able to afford the liferefugium

billdogg · 01/21/2012, 06:45 AM

I think you will find that the only panel tempered on your tank is the bottom. There are a couple simple ways to test for temper, or you could just contact the manufacturer - they could tell you.

RubberFrog · 01/21/2012, 10:12 AM

Reread that tag again, I am certain on a tank that size only the bottom is tempered. I drilled my gl*******s overflow while my tank was full of water. Lower the water below you're drilling area and go for it.

El Mujadore · 01/23/2012, 03:38 PM

Thanks.. sounds scary as hell, maybe if I go to all that trouble I would just buy a new tank with no scratches, and drill before installing. Good stuff the think about.
I did still want to know how U-tube overflows re-establish siphon? I guess I can also contact eshopps and ask.

01/20/2012, 04:02 PM	#1
El Mujadore Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Monterey Bay Peninsula Posts: 31	125 Glass tank overflow options Hi, I have a 125gallon glass up and running since June 2011. Everything is going slow, steady, and great, except for one aspect. I was away for the holidays and a friend was housitting dogs and topping off water. It just so happens that is the time in which the aqualifter failed and a spill occurred . The CPR overflow is made so that I can only adjust the display tank water level at the upper limits of the tank, well above the black trim and viewable area. I have made a new glass sump with limited return area, so it will not overflow again, but still the concern of a pump burnout is not good. So, I have been looking into U-tube models, such as the Eshopps pf 1200, as I have a 1200gph pump reduced by a ball valve "T" to increase flow in the refuge area of the sump. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg My question is how this device creates a siphon upon the power returning? Is it or any U-tube designs as reliable as the CPR, or should I save up for a non-tempered glass drilled tank?

01/20/2012, 04:05 PM	#2
billdogg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Grove City, Ohio Posts: 10,806	I would take a look at www.glass-holes.com - buy a kit and install it yourself. It is a slight bit riskier on a tank that is running, but can still easily be done. Are you sure yours is tempered? __________________ I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer

01/20/2012, 07:35 PM	#3
zigzag1 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Anderson, Indiana Posts: 1,276	Ditch the CPR brand overflow. They are very failure prone. I had one many years back and spiked it in my driveway into a million pieces the second time it overflowed into the floor. It is simply a very very poor design. Drilling the tank is a good solution. That being said - I still use a HOB overflow. I switched to an Eshopps brand overflow, which is the same design as the also recommended Lifereef overflow. The Lifereef and Eshopps are a much better design that isn't dependent on an aqualifter. They only need adequate flow and the will be reliable. I have used the Eshopp brand for more than 10 years, and I have two of them - and find them very reliable. JMTC & GL! __________________ :beer: Mixed Reef, started 10/2004: 6' BB 125g DT, 100lbs LR, 40g sump, Dual Ehiem 1000 returns, Eshopps dual overflow, JBJ ATO, Vertex IN-180, PM Ca reactor, 250w MH w/VHO Actinic, AC3 w/Aquasurf, Tunze 6105 pair & 40B frag tank 8 Fish, 20+ corals, shrimp, snails, worms, bugs, etc.

01/21/2012, 06:45 AM	#5
billdogg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Grove City, Ohio Posts: 10,806	I think you will find that the only panel tempered on your tank is the bottom. There are a couple simple ways to test for temper, or you could just contact the manufacturer - they could tell you. __________________ I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer

01/21/2012, 10:12 AM	#6
RubberFrog Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 286	Reread that tag again, I am certain on a tank that size only the bottom is tempered. I drilled my gl*******s overflow while my tank was full of water. Lower the water below you're drilling area and go for it.

01/23/2012, 03:38 PM	#7
El Mujadore Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Monterey Bay Peninsula Posts: 31	Thanks.. sounds scary as hell, maybe if I go to all that trouble I would just buy a new tank with no scratches, and drill before installing. Good stuff the think about. I did still want to know how U-tube overflows re-establish siphon? I guess I can also contact eshopps and ask.