|
05/05/2012, 07:29 AM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Damascus, MD
Posts: 3,340
|
About ready to throw in the towel..
On my umpteenth cyano outbreak. No end in site for sky-high nitrates. Vodka dosing seems to be doing nothing. After 9 months I still have massive amounts of algae and cyano. This morning the entire tank looks purple from the latest cyano outbreak. If it weren't for the livestock, I'd break this tank down today.
__________________
125RR in-wall, 40B Sump, CS180 BM Skimmer, ATI 4x80 watt, eheim 1262, custom wrap around rock wall, ReefKeeper Elite 120g in-wall, 40B Sump, PC 54wx4, Jabao DC-6000 (full siphon), future seahorse t Current Tank Info: 125g, 120g, 2x40b sumps, ATI 4x80 T5HO |
05/05/2012, 07:41 AM | #2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 6,659
|
Need more info. Such as water parameters, if your running a phosphate reactors and what you have tried to battle the cyano
|
05/05/2012, 07:43 AM | #3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 105
|
Need to know water parameters, how much u feeding, how long u keeping your lights on? Are you running GFO??
|
05/05/2012, 07:44 AM | #4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Glenn Dale, MD
Posts: 1,613
|
I would run some SeaChem Purigen immediately. Won't solve whatever is causing the problem, but it will clean up your cyano bacteria.
__________________
No man is an island entire of itself; any man's death diminishes me, because I am involved in mankind; never send to know for whom the bell tolls; it tolls for thee. John Donne Current Tank Info: 120g Reef 100g Rubbermaid Sump, 20g Refugium; previous tank: 46g Drilled; Self Plumbed, Birds Nest, Anchor, Xenia, Zoas, Yuma Yuma Ricordea, Chalice, Mushrooms, Brain, Acan, Anenome Plate; Clams, Other Inverts, Fish, Live Rock |
05/05/2012, 09:31 AM | #5 |
RC Mod
|
Have you tried the 3-day lights-out method? If you have a very good skimmer and an absolute blackout, this usually gets it within 3 months, 3 tries. If you have cyano that doesn't die off in the dark, something is very strange.
__________________
Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
05/05/2012, 09:34 AM | #6 |
RC Mod
|
Re nitrates---do you have a sponge or filter medium anywhere in this tank setup? That's usually the reason. And what and how much are you feeding? And is this setup with ro/di?
__________________
Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
05/05/2012, 03:43 PM | #7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Damascus, MD
Posts: 3,340
|
All RO/DI (tests 0 nitrates), feeding a few flakes/pellets every other day or so. 1 giant filter bag for the sump, cleaned weekly. Tried lights out once no help at all. All reg water levels nominal. Nitrates >80ppm. Phosphates .5+. Running phosphate pellets in a bag just thrown in the sump as I can't fit a reactor anywhere. Also have a bag of nitrate pellets and a bag of charcoal.
I do run the lights a lot, was going to try cutting them down to 6 hours a day. 4x39 watt T5 running about 12 hours a day now plus a plant light in the sump for a ball of algae.
__________________
125RR in-wall, 40B Sump, CS180 BM Skimmer, ATI 4x80 watt, eheim 1262, custom wrap around rock wall, ReefKeeper Elite 120g in-wall, 40B Sump, PC 54wx4, Jabao DC-6000 (full siphon), future seahorse t Current Tank Info: 125g, 120g, 2x40b sumps, ATI 4x80 T5HO |
05/05/2012, 04:21 PM | #8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 1,485
|
TDS of your RO/DI water? I see that you tested it for nitrates, but have you tested it for TDS? Is it possible that you have high TDS in your water leading to some of your problems?
And on the feeding issue, how many is a 'few flakes/pellets'? And the T5s running for 12hrs is likely a big part of your problem. Cut that down significantly. Also, when you did lights out on your tank, did you make sure that NO lights (not even lights from the room) could penetrate into the tank? It takes more than just turning the tank light off. You have to make sure no light gets in. It needs to be a complete black-out. Even small amounts of light seeping in can keep the algae alive. |
05/05/2012, 05:07 PM | #9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Memphis 10
Posts: 1,098
|
With nutrient levels that high it is going to take a while to fix. You likely have high organic nutrient levels bound to your live rock. Possibly an explanation to why there is cyano growing all over it. Even if you were to do something drastic like 100% water changes you would see those levels rise back, and a return of nusance algae.
Phosphate and nitrate pellets in a bag are going to do you little to no good. It just doesn't work that way. Water has to flow through the media, not around it. Since you dont have room in sump, there are HOB models of reactors available (Via Aqua). For the time being I would remove the "1 giant filter bag for the sump." Doesn't sound like its helping you very much, and might be contributing to the problem. Feed lightly and perform 20% (at least) water changes weekly until your levels are in check. Provided that you are removing (water changes) more nutrients than you are putting in (feeding livestock) your levels will eventually decrease. Also, I really don't see how Seachem Purigen could possibly clean up the cyano.
__________________
If the spirit moves ya, let me groove ya Current Tank Info: 150g Starphire Pensinula SPS |
05/05/2012, 06:03 PM | #10 |
RC Mod
|
I agree with the advice given. CYano is usually a light issue far more than nutrient, but high nutrients don't help. Sunlight should be 8 hours or less, blue lights up to 10 as a twilight and color correction. Check the things suggested. And if absolutely all else fails you may have to go a round with Chemiclean---I don't like to suggest that, and fix all other issues first. The sudden dieoff in using Chemiclean can crash a tank if your skimmer isn't up to pulling the dieoff out fast enough; and it will impact your microlife---cost me a fortune in pods for my mandy the time I used it. But of all problems a tank can have cyano is one of the most fixable. Don't get discouraged: just start being sure your water is as good as you think, ditch anything that traps debris and waste; shield your tank from all daylight; ---I'm not familiar with your lights, but light spectrum can profoundly affect this. Cyano loves cloudy sunlight, slanted sunlight, or sunlight of a slightly skewed spectrum. It eats light. Bigtime.
__________________
Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
05/05/2012, 06:20 PM | #11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: St Louis MO
Posts: 4,222
|
The cyano could be from the vodka dosing. If it were my tank, I would stop dosing everything, remove the bags of stuff, and treat for three days with chemi-clean, and lights off.
The algae will take time and weekly water changes, but the cyano should be quick.
__________________
$35-50 for a <1" frag of some stupid named thing that came from a colony you bought for $40-60 wholesale and chopped into 20-40 pieces? No thanks. "JasonH" Current Tank Info: 125 aggressive reef, DIY led lighting, swc cone skimmer, 33 gallon sump, posiden Ps3 return. |
05/05/2012, 06:37 PM | #12 |
Life and Reef Saver
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Tavares, Florida
Posts: 6,202
|
How old are the bulbs in your light fixture? Also, is there any natural sunlight reaching the tank at all?
__________________
><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º>¸. ·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·.. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º> How much deeper would the ocean be if it didn't have sponges? P. Sherman 42 Wallaby Way Sid Current Tank Info: 40 Breeder, 20L Sump, 10G Fuge, JBJ A.T.O, 4" Reef Octopus, DIY Stand & Canopy, RapidLED Dimmable 36 Kit on 3 6" MakersLED Heatsink, MP10es |
05/05/2012, 07:02 PM | #13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: payette idaho
Posts: 84
|
can try new ats simple and might help did with my cyano in my tank.
just need air pump a 4inch air stone and 4x3 screen tied to air stone. place in sump by side with cfl flood light shinning though the side. |
05/05/2012, 08:30 PM | #14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Belgrade
Posts: 1,086
|
At nitrates > 80ppm I don't see why you would wonder - it is massive. Cut your feeding to a minimum, ditch the big filter bag, stop dosing vodka and whatever else you're dosing and male a complete blackout for three days.
|
05/05/2012, 09:10 PM | #15 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,037
|
Try removing the lid. If there is one. This would help speed up the gas exchange.
|
05/06/2012, 08:27 AM | #16 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Damascus, MD
Posts: 3,340
|
Bulbs are brand new (in my sig line). TDS is 0. I have a screen top and lose ~1 gallon/day to evap. Feeding is very minimal. No more frozen, just pellets and flakes. And just a few of those. (small pinch)
I will remove the filter bag/sock along with all the dosing bags floating in the sump. It does pick up a lot of stuff primarily a ton of algae as I attempt to remove it with a tooth brush and it goes out the overflow into the sump bag. I can clean it on Saturday and by the following Saturday the tank has a ton algae again (grows 2-3" in a week). When you smell my water, it smells like those bottles of phyto-feast. The tank is perpendicular to a window that gets full sun almost directly facing where the sun rises. I have blinds on the windows but they still allow the slats of light through. I have been meaning to move the UV filter to this tank and will do it today.
__________________
125RR in-wall, 40B Sump, CS180 BM Skimmer, ATI 4x80 watt, eheim 1262, custom wrap around rock wall, ReefKeeper Elite 120g in-wall, 40B Sump, PC 54wx4, Jabao DC-6000 (full siphon), future seahorse t Current Tank Info: 125g, 120g, 2x40b sumps, ATI 4x80 T5HO |
05/06/2012, 09:05 AM | #17 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 1,485
|
The tank getting that much sun is probably a big reason why you have algae issues. My brother-in-law had a similar issue with the biocube in their bedroom. No matter where he placed the tank, it got sunlight due to a fairly large skylight in the room. The tank mostly got sun when they were at work so he ended up fashioning a shield made of cardboard to place around the tank when they were at work. The shield kept the tank from getting direct sunlight and really helped clear up some of his algae issues.
|
05/06/2012, 09:11 AM | #18 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 1,485
|
Of course, your extremely high nitrates aren't helping anything. You really need to figure out where the high nitrates are originating from. Also, I didn't see that you listed a refugium in your sig. Are you running a fuge? If not, I would suggest adding one to your sump with chaeto in it. As the chaeto grows, it will pull nutrients out of the water column. Everytime you remove some of the chaeto, you are removing some of the nutrients that are bound up in the chaeto. And I don't know if you have the capability of running one, but look into turf algae scrubbers. They are also great at removing nutrients from the water.
|
05/06/2012, 09:23 AM | #19 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Damascus, MD
Posts: 3,340
|
I have a ball of something in my sump. Not sure what it is but the LFS said it would help remove nitrates. It is a 6" diameter ball of algae that has very coarse strands. I don't have a fuge per-se but I do have a 20 gallon 2 chamber sump that I use as a fuge.
__________________
125RR in-wall, 40B Sump, CS180 BM Skimmer, ATI 4x80 watt, eheim 1262, custom wrap around rock wall, ReefKeeper Elite 120g in-wall, 40B Sump, PC 54wx4, Jabao DC-6000 (full siphon), future seahorse t Current Tank Info: 125g, 120g, 2x40b sumps, ATI 4x80 T5HO |
05/06/2012, 11:10 AM | #20 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Memphis 10
Posts: 1,098
|
That is Chaetomorpha... it will compete with the hair algae and cyano to absorb nutrients, should help in the long-run. Not an easy fix solution by any means though. You might want to consider a more powerful bulb, or lowering it at least, by the looks of the pictures the lighting is rather dim. Considering Chaeto loves light....More light = Faster Growth = More nutrients absorbed.
__________________
If the spirit moves ya, let me groove ya Current Tank Info: 150g Starphire Pensinula SPS |
05/06/2012, 01:16 PM | #21 |
Coral Hoarder
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 2,247
|
Do you have adequate flow? I'm pretty stumped, all I could think of is nutrients trapped within your rock and insufficient flow.
__________________
Alex FMAS Member Current Tank Info: 400 Gallons of frags... 30 gallon Deep Blue mixed reef ... 70 other tanks throughout south FL |
05/06/2012, 03:29 PM | #22 |
RC Mod
|
Cyano only needs 3 things to live ---odd spectrum sunlight, a lot of it; carbon (the vodka); and water. It can use other nutrients, but the core of the problem will be to remove one (or two!) of those elements.
__________________
Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
05/06/2012, 04:15 PM | #23 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 105
|
Stop dosing the vodka, try to find a way to shield your tank from the sun light, and start to take out the extra media to help pinpoint the nitrate problem
|
05/07/2012, 07:53 AM | #24 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Damascus, MD
Posts: 3,340
|
I started to dose vodka to help this chronic problem. I'll continue that as the write-up on vodka makes sense. I don't think the vodka is contributing as I have only been doing it for 2 weeks.
But I did close the blinds all the way in the room and they will remain that way. And I added my "big" UV filter. I am also only going to run the lights for 6 hours a day. And just 2 of the 4 T5s. And I am going to change 20% per week of the water to see if that helps (instead of 10%). I have two buckets conditioning now. Also I have had the UV filter on 4 just a day but I swear the Frogspawn already is looking better.
__________________
125RR in-wall, 40B Sump, CS180 BM Skimmer, ATI 4x80 watt, eheim 1262, custom wrap around rock wall, ReefKeeper Elite 120g in-wall, 40B Sump, PC 54wx4, Jabao DC-6000 (full siphon), future seahorse t Current Tank Info: 125g, 120g, 2x40b sumps, ATI 4x80 T5HO |
05/07/2012, 08:36 AM | #25 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: cordova , TN
Posts: 2,882
|
I have found when things are not doing well in my tank stop everything you are doing and revert to the basics . stop dosing run a reactor with a mix of phosban and carbon and weekly 20% water changes . you are not going to see a change overnight. kill your lights completely for 3 days and only run them for 4-6 hrs and keep changing your water weekly and replace you phosban when it starts changing to a yellowish rusty color. over time you nitrates will fall and the cyano and algae will go away.
__________________
got reef? Current Tank Info: 29 biocube HQI |
|
|