Is drilling the tank really worth it?

reeferheadlouie · 07/22/2012, 07:07 AM

Extremely new the hobby. I have acquired a 90 gal tank that has not been drilled. I do have a HOB overflow box. I have seen a kit on glass-holes.com that looks pretty good.

What are the advantages?

Would you guys recommend drilling out the tank or just keep the HOB overflow?

fishgate · 07/22/2012, 07:17 AM

Drill baby, drill.

redneckgearhead · 07/22/2012, 07:24 AM

Drilling the tank, allows you to add water volume which carries numerous benefits, as well as allows you to hide your equipment, skimmers, heaters and such. Drilling is easy, and cheap. No reason not to do it.

88rxna · 07/22/2012, 07:25 AM

What are your plans for the tank? Running a sump at all? Depending what you want to do depends on needing to drill it. I just threw out my overflow box from them and drilled 2 more holes for the beananimal overflow. LOTS more flow.
It is VERY easy to drill a tank. Watch the video and take your time.

James77 · 07/22/2012, 07:37 AM

If you are going to run a sump, drill now. Far less headaches with a drilled overflow. The glass-holes are good, look into the bean animal overflow. Dead silent and virtually no risk.

Potsy · 07/22/2012, 07:59 AM

I installed a glass-holes overflow kit on my 50 gallon. I'm the least handy person I know and it was EASY. Definitely worth it. Be sure to measure 5 times and then drill, using steady light pressure and plenty of water.

reeferheadlouie · 07/22/2012, 08:09 AM

Thanks for all the comments. I will be running a 35 gal fuge which is on order.Another question I have is on the return kits they sale. How does the water stop the siphon affect with the glass-holes return kit?

redneckgearhead · 07/22/2012, 08:14 AM

I run a bean animal style return so I dont know about the glass-holes, but in bean animal you want the siphon, and you control it with a ball valve.

reeferheadlouie · 07/22/2012, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redneckgearhead

I run a bean animal style return so I dont know about the glass-holes, but in bean animal you want the siphon, and you control it with a ball valve.

Where can I find the beam animal style? You say you want the siphon , wouldn't that fill up your sump/fuge?

wildman926 · 07/22/2012, 08:26 AM

I know others say to drill, but I prefer not to. I have an HOB, running a Herbie. It is dead silent, easy to clean, and no issues whatsoever. I have never lost a siphon

redneckgearhead · 07/22/2012, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reeferheadlouie

Where can I find the beam animal style? You say you want the siphon , wouldn't that fill up your sump/fuge?

Here http://www.beananimal.com/projects/s...ow-system.aspx yes it would fill up the sump/fuge if you didn't have pump returning it to the DT. You must leave enough room in the sump fuge to compensate for power outage, but beyond that they are fool proof.

sirreal63 · 07/22/2012, 09:11 AM

I would go with the glass-holes kit, in fact I did, and I couldn't be happier with it. Very small in tank footprint and it is safe and easy. It can be made near silent very easily as well. You have to pull the lid off mine and put your ear right over it to even hear it.

Potsy · 07/22/2012, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reeferheadlouie

Thanks for all the comments. I will be running a 35 gal fuge which is on order.Another question I have is on the return kits they sale. How does the water stop the siphon affect with the glass-holes return kit?

If you mean the return kits that require a second drilled hole, I didn't bother. I prefer the flexibility of the movable output nozzle that hangs over the tank's rim. I can't even count how many times I've moved the output.

reeferheadlouie · 07/22/2012, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Potsy

If you mean the return kits that require a second drilled hole, I didn't bother. I prefer the flexibility of the movable output nozzle that hangs over the tank's rim. I can't even count how many times I've moved the output.

Yea , that's a good point to think about.

reeferheadlouie · 07/22/2012, 11:00 AM

Also on any return line to the tank is it a good idea to run an inline check valve. I'm thinking maybe a ball check because it takes less force to open. I know you can just drill a hole on the HOB return line to break siphon but what about the return line that is drilled into tank, how do they break siphon.

Or is there normally enough room in the fuge for the drain back and there is no worry for the drain back?

Bones06 · 07/22/2012, 11:23 AM

Edited/removed because the question I was responding to was already answered

viggen · 07/22/2012, 01:05 PM

No, I would not run one of those ball check valve things for one reason, they FAIL! Instead of using one of those you simply design the sump and plumbing to take the extra water when the power shuts off. Drill a hole in the return line just barely under the water level and/or end the return line at the water level. Sometimes it takes a bit of playing around to get the proper height of the return but that's the safest way.

Like stated drill the tank if you can. The hang on back overflows work however the issue with those is that many times they will loose siphon. Could be from loosing power or a snake getting into the line or just algae buildup. I did the durst pipes on the returning both of my tanks, totally silent. There are numerous different types of ways to make the returns quiet.

Jim.mer · 07/22/2012, 01:12 PM

Drill it, add a Sump, more water volume, hide the equipment.

Fishbulb2 · 07/22/2012, 01:19 PM

Drill it. I've used the glass-holes kit myself. It's a breeze and you'll never look back. I've done overflow boxes and including those most highly recommended. They all eventually flood. The last glass-holes kit I used was on a cichlid tank that was fully up and running. I put 20 large fish into multiple buckets. Quickly drained the tank. Took out the ornaments. Scooped the gravel into the another bucket. Put the tank on it's face, drilled it, and put in the bulkhead. Put the tank back on the stand and glued all of the plumbing. Waited 15 minutes and put fish and water from buckets back into the tank and topped it off with freshwater. I didn't lose one fish and the whole thing took 30 to 45 minutes. I COULDN'T BELIEVE how easy it was and I was kicking myself for not doing it 6 years earlier.

Just recently I drilled 6 twenty gallon tank for a breeding project. I now believe you actually have to TRY to crack a tank while drilling it. Otherwise it's virtually impossible.

FB

passion4reef · 07/22/2012, 04:40 PM

my first tank had hob filters and i thought it was good because thats all ive ever used, but i quickly learned about sumps aqnd never looked back. now i wont put up a tank unless its drilled. its super easy and definatly worth it. glass holes kits make it super easy and include everything you need except plumbers putty and a drill. take the plumbers putty and make a thick ring around the area you want to drill. i good judgement would be the bottom of the tank trim that way when the pump is running it wont flow over the top. fill the ring with water. this is to keep the glass and drill bit cool. next take your drill and start the drill bit on a slight angle. as your drilling slowly work the drill bit straight. make sure you use a slow speed and a steady hand and keep at it. once you drill your first hole the rest will be simple. bigest thing is to make sure the tank is not tempered glass. if your not sure take it down to your local glass shop to confirm. as for the return i use a swing check valve made for a pool. it has a little rubber flapper in it that the water pushes out of the way. when the pump turns off the flap closes and is fool proof. make sure to fill your tank to the desired level with the pump off and mark that level on the sump. next turn you pump on and let it run. then mark the water level your sump runs at. the lower line will be the level you top off to and the upper line will be the level the sump goes up to when the power is off. you will want to leave an inch from the top of the sump as a cushion incase of overfilling.

reeferheadlouie · 07/22/2012, 05:09 PM

Is It normal for the backwall plane of glass to be tempered? I have read where you can put on polarized sun glasses to tell if it's tempered.

Is there any DIY ways of telling if a glass is tempered without hauling it anywhere?

88rxna · 07/22/2012, 06:24 PM

hit it with a coin. if you are uncertain what it will sound like with a coin find something in your house that you KNOW is glass and compare.

EthanKyle · 07/22/2012, 06:30 PM

Forget the HOB. It went out with the twist just like under gravel filters.

reeferheadlouie · 07/22/2012, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EthanKyle

Forget the HOB. It went out with the twist just like under gravel filters.

Lol....I think I'm definitely on board with drilling!

goettner · 07/22/2012, 06:56 PM

Drilling is the best decision you will ever make.10 years ogo I ran a reeftank in a nondrilled tank.I had 3 floods and a very unhappy wife.So I gave it up.I now started a new drilled tank and I tell you there are no more problems.Good luck!

07/22/2012, 07:07 AM	#1
reeferheadlouie Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Bunnell, FLA Posts: 51	Is drilling the tank really worth it? Extremely new the hobby. I have acquired a 90 gal tank that has not been drilled. I do have a HOB overflow box. I have seen a kit on glass-holes.com that looks pretty good. What are the advantages? Would you guys recommend drilling out the tank or just keep the HOB overflow?

07/22/2012, 07:17 AM	#2
fishgate Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Damascus, MD Posts: 3,340	Drill baby, drill. __________________ 125RR in-wall, 40B Sump, CS180 BM Skimmer, ATI 4x80 watt, eheim 1262, custom wrap around rock wall, ReefKeeper Elite 120g in-wall, 40B Sump, PC 54wx4, Jabao DC-6000 (full siphon), future seahorse t Current Tank Info: 125g, 120g, 2x40b sumps, ATI 4x80 T5HO

07/22/2012, 07:24 AM	#3
redneckgearhead Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Tulsa Posts: 505	Drilling the tank, allows you to add water volume which carries numerous benefits, as well as allows you to hide your equipment, skimmers, heaters and such. Drilling is easy, and cheap. No reason not to do it. __________________ Scott 75 gallon soon to be 90 gallon reef 55 gallon FOWLR Life aint goin as planned? Look to the two things you can change...YOUR perspective and YOUR actions! Current Tank Info: 75g reef

07/22/2012, 07:25 AM	#4
88rxna Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: ludlow,PA Posts: 605	What are your plans for the tank? Running a sump at all? Depending what you want to do depends on needing to drill it. I just threw out my overflow box from them and drilled 2 more holes for the beananimal overflow. LOTS more flow. It is VERY easy to drill a tank. Watch the video and take your time. __________________ 90 gallon display, CSC bean animal overflow/30 gallon sump (in basement) SWC 160 skimmer reeflow dart external pump reefkeeper lite a pair of ocean revive S026 led fixtures

07/22/2012, 07:37 AM	#5
James77 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 8,158	If you are going to run a sump, drill now. Far less headaches with a drilled overflow. The glass-holes are good, look into the bean animal overflow. Dead silent and virtually no risk. __________________ Jim Current Tank Info: 120g Mixed Reef and 75g Freshwater

07/22/2012, 07:59 AM	#6
Potsy Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Kinnelon, NJ Posts: 1,827	I installed a glass-holes overflow kit on my 50 gallon. I'm the least handy person I know and it was EASY. Definitely worth it. Be sure to measure 5 times and then drill, using steady light pressure and plenty of water.

07/22/2012, 08:09 AM	#7
reeferheadlouie Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Bunnell, FLA Posts: 51	Thanks for all the comments. I will be running a 35 gal fuge which is on order.Another question I have is on the return kits they sale. How does the water stop the siphon affect with the glass-holes return kit?

07/22/2012, 08:14 AM	#8
redneckgearhead Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Tulsa Posts: 505	I run a bean animal style return so I dont know about the glass-holes, but in bean animal you want the siphon, and you control it with a ball valve. __________________ Scott 75 gallon soon to be 90 gallon reef 55 gallon FOWLR Life aint goin as planned? Look to the two things you can change...YOUR perspective and YOUR actions! Current Tank Info: 75g reef

07/22/2012, 08:26 AM	#10
wildman926 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: CTX Posts: 2,904	I know others say to drill, but I prefer not to. I have an HOB, running a Herbie. It is dead silent, easy to clean, and no issues whatsoever. I have never lost a siphon __________________ Beware of recommendations by those who don't actually use their recommendation!! The search function actually works quite well!! Tanks:Planet Aquarium 150g LPS, Planet Aquarium 90g Softie

07/22/2012, 09:11 AM	#12
sirreal63 Go Spurs Go!!! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Meadowlakes Texas Posts: 13,357	I would go with the glass-holes kit, in fact I did, and I couldn't be happier with it. Very small in tank footprint and it is safe and easy. It can be made near silent very easily as well. You have to pull the lid off mine and put your ear right over it to even hear it. __________________ Jack No One has ever been seriously injured by using the search function. Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms should be a convenience store, not a government agency. Current Tank Info: Reefing the Pentagon.

07/22/2012, 11:00 AM	#15
reeferheadlouie Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Bunnell, FLA Posts: 51	Also on any return line to the tank is it a good idea to run an inline check valve. I'm thinking maybe a ball check because it takes less force to open. I know you can just drill a hole on the HOB return line to break siphon but what about the return line that is drilled into tank, how do they break siphon. Or is there normally enough room in the fuge for the drain back and there is no worry for the drain back?

07/22/2012, 11:23 AM	#16
Bones06 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 175	Edited/removed because the question I was responding to was already answered

07/22/2012, 01:05 PM	#17
viggen Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 2,213	No, I would not run one of those ball check valve things for one reason, they FAIL! Instead of using one of those you simply design the sump and plumbing to take the extra water when the power shuts off. Drill a hole in the return line just barely under the water level and/or end the return line at the water level. Sometimes it takes a bit of playing around to get the proper height of the return but that's the safest way. Like stated drill the tank if you can. The hang on back overflows work however the issue with those is that many times they will loose siphon. Could be from loosing power or a snake getting into the line or just algae buildup. I did the durst pipes on the returning both of my tanks, totally silent. There are numerous different types of ways to make the returns quiet. __________________ A tub of fish

07/22/2012, 01:12 PM	#18
Jim.mer Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: North Bay,Ont Posts: 235	Drill it, add a Sump, more water volume, hide the equipment. __________________ JBJ 12 in the works, I said to my self, my self I said, Maybe i'll go LED No my self said No, MH all the way Current Tank Info: 12 jbj settin up soon, no fish, just inverts, hermits,softies,LPS

07/22/2012, 01:19 PM	#19
Fishbulb2 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Bethesda, MD Posts: 1,807	Drill it. I've used the glass-holes kit myself. It's a breeze and you'll never look back. I've done overflow boxes and including those most highly recommended. They all eventually flood. The last glass-holes kit I used was on a cichlid tank that was fully up and running. I put 20 large fish into multiple buckets. Quickly drained the tank. Took out the ornaments. Scooped the gravel into the another bucket. Put the tank on it's face, drilled it, and put in the bulkhead. Put the tank back on the stand and glued all of the plumbing. Waited 15 minutes and put fish and water from buckets back into the tank and topped it off with freshwater. I didn't lose one fish and the whole thing took 30 to 45 minutes. I COULDN'T BELIEVE how easy it was and I was kicking myself for not doing it 6 years earlier. Just recently I drilled 6 twenty gallon tank for a breeding project. I now believe you actually have to TRY to crack a tank while drilling it. Otherwise it's virtually impossible. FB __________________ Just getting back in, but trying to do it right! Current Tank Info: 40 gallon tank. SPS, LPS, few softies

07/22/2012, 04:40 PM	#20
passion4reef Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 157	my first tank had hob filters and i thought it was good because thats all ive ever used, but i quickly learned about sumps aqnd never looked back. now i wont put up a tank unless its drilled. its super easy and definatly worth it. glass holes kits make it super easy and include everything you need except plumbers putty and a drill. take the plumbers putty and make a thick ring around the area you want to drill. i good judgement would be the bottom of the tank trim that way when the pump is running it wont flow over the top. fill the ring with water. this is to keep the glass and drill bit cool. next take your drill and start the drill bit on a slight angle. as your drilling slowly work the drill bit straight. make sure you use a slow speed and a steady hand and keep at it. once you drill your first hole the rest will be simple. bigest thing is to make sure the tank is not tempered glass. if your not sure take it down to your local glass shop to confirm. as for the return i use a swing check valve made for a pool. it has a little rubber flapper in it that the water pushes out of the way. when the pump turns off the flap closes and is fool proof. make sure to fill your tank to the desired level with the pump off and mark that level on the sump. next turn you pump on and let it run. then mark the water level your sump runs at. the lower line will be the level you top off to and the upper line will be the level the sump goes up to when the power is off. you will want to leave an inch from the top of the sump as a cushion incase of overfilling.

07/22/2012, 05:09 PM	#21
reeferheadlouie Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Bunnell, FLA Posts: 51	Is It normal for the backwall plane of glass to be tempered? I have read where you can put on polarized sun glasses to tell if it's tempered. Is there any DIY ways of telling if a glass is tempered without hauling it anywhere?

07/22/2012, 06:24 PM	#22
88rxna Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: ludlow,PA Posts: 605	hit it with a coin. if you are uncertain what it will sound like with a coin find something in your house that you KNOW is glass and compare. __________________ 90 gallon display, CSC bean animal overflow/30 gallon sump (in basement) SWC 160 skimmer reeflow dart external pump reefkeeper lite a pair of ocean revive S026 led fixtures

07/22/2012, 06:30 PM	#23
EthanKyle Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: La Verne, CA Posts: 163	Forget the HOB. It went out with the twist just like under gravel filters.

07/22/2012, 06:56 PM	#25
goettner Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Grand Rapids,MI Posts: 69	Drilling is the best decision you will ever make.10 years ogo I ran a reeftank in a nondrilled tank.I had 3 floods and a very unhappy wife.So I gave it up.I now started a new drilled tank and I tell you there are no more problems.Good luck!