1001 Quarantine question

SaltyWenStirred · 08/28/2012, 11:06 AM

I'm on Day 18 of my cycle process in my 38g display tank. Planning ahead, so I read that it's a good idea to toss a filter in the back (or sump) of the display tank, so that it's ready to use when a quarantine tank gets set up.

I had a new HOB filter for a 10G tank still in the bag, so I pulled it out and tossed the filter in the back of my display tank about 4-5 days ago. It's the bag type, that slides in and has carbon in it.

Then I read that you don't want to run carbon in a QT tank. So should I cut a slit in the filter bag that's in the back of my DT and take the carbon out? Or should I just buy some new mechanical sponge and use that instead?

Also, it's a little confusing about whether or not to treat new fish with no symptoms. I want 3 fish in my display tank, and mostly coral. 2 clown fish and 1 cardinal. I'm assuming that I'll get them all on the same day... sometime after I have some coral in my tank.

So, for my first 3 fish, I would need to put them in a quarantine tank for 6+ weeks, correct?

So far I've read #1 use 100% tank water #2 50/50 tank water and #3 100% new water. Opinions?

And I've read where people do the hypo or treat their fish and die. Do I need to do either on my fish in the QT, if they show no symptoms at all while in there?

I know these questions are on the stickies. I can stick with the stickies, till I start reading a bunch of varying opinions.

Reefmedic79 · 08/28/2012, 01:03 PM

I would use just a mechanical sponge filter for the QT filter if you plan on treating the fish prophylactically, carbon absorbs copper I believe, and will throw the proper dosing off. If you plan on using hyposalinity as a treatment then the carbon would be helpful.

Treating a fish without symptoms of illness is a personal preference for most people. I personally suggest treating even without symptoms because a healthy fish can still be carrying the parasites.

A full QT period should run between 5-10 weeks depending on the method used to rid the fish of parasites. Copper = 3-5 weeks; Hyposalinity = 6-8 weeks.

As for where the water comes from in the QT, it doesn't really matter since very little denitrifying bacteria actually populate the water column.

divinedragon13 · 08/28/2012, 01:07 PM

agree

MrTuskfish · 08/28/2012, 01:20 PM

I like to use DT water in the QT. Parameters are identical, no acclimating from QT to DT. Also, the DT gets a WC. Do this from day one and you can be sure the QT is getting parasite free water. I see no reason not to re-cycle the DT water.

Mavrk · 08/28/2012, 01:47 PM

Running carbon is fine if you are not treating. You can always remove the carbon if you treat, then put it back in to remove the residual medicine after the treatment period. Plan on at least a couple months in the QT, so you could get a fish now so it is ready to go when your tank is cycled.

I don't treat for ich without any signs of an issue, but if I did I would use the tank transfer method since it is hard to mess up. I recently started treating with prazipro in QT since it is so mild on the fish.

For water, I recommend making the salinity the same as the bag water. So find out the salinity first if getting from an LFS. I find most online stores to have really low salinity (around 20 ppt). It is easier on a fish to go from high salinity to low than the other way around. Water from the DT is usually buffered a little better, but if the tank is still cycling I wouldn't use it. I slowly bring the salinity up to the same as my DT by adding saltwater as topoff water until it is at the same 35 ppt level. Towards the end of the QT I start doing water changes with water from the DT so the pH and everything ends up the same and there is not further acclimation needed before going in the DT.

Reefmedic79 · 08/28/2012, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrTuskfish

I like to use DT water in the QT. Parameters are identical, no acclimating from QT to DT. Also, the DT gets a WC. Do this from day one and you can be sure the QT is getting parasite free water. I see no reason not to re-cycle the DT water.

Identicle parametersis a very good arguement for this method, don't know why I never thought of it.

MrTuskfish · 08/28/2012, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reefmedic79

Identicle parametersis a very good arguement for this method, don't know why I never thought of it.

There is other reasoning in Mavrk's post above yours. Whatever works.

08/28/2012, 01:20 PM	#4
MrTuskfish Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: The Wild Blue Yonder Posts: 8,887	I like to use DT water in the QT. Parameters are identical, no acclimating from QT to DT. Also, the DT gets a WC. Do this from day one and you can be sure the QT is getting parasite free water. I see no reason not to re-cycle the DT water. __________________ If God didn't want us to eat animals, he wouldn't have made them out of meat. Steve Current Tank Info: 180, 2-240 FOWLRs, 240 reef

08/28/2012, 11:06 AM	#1
SaltyWenStirred Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 245	1001 Quarantine question I'm on Day 18 of my cycle process in my 38g display tank. Planning ahead, so I read that it's a good idea to toss a filter in the back (or sump) of the display tank, so that it's ready to use when a quarantine tank gets set up. I had a new HOB filter for a 10G tank still in the bag, so I pulled it out and tossed the filter in the back of my display tank about 4-5 days ago. It's the bag type, that slides in and has carbon in it. Then I read that you don't want to run carbon in a QT tank. So should I cut a slit in the filter bag that's in the back of my DT and take the carbon out? Or should I just buy some new mechanical sponge and use that instead? Also, it's a little confusing about whether or not to treat new fish with no symptoms. I want 3 fish in my display tank, and mostly coral. 2 clown fish and 1 cardinal. I'm assuming that I'll get them all on the same day... sometime after I have some coral in my tank. So, for my first 3 fish, I would need to put them in a quarantine tank for 6+ weeks, correct? So far I've read #1 use 100% tank water #2 50/50 tank water and #3 100% new water. Opinions? And I've read where people do the hypo or treat their fish and die. Do I need to do either on my fish in the QT, if they show no symptoms at all while in there? I know these questions are on the stickies. I can stick with the stickies, till I start reading a bunch of varying opinions. __________________ Innovative Marine 38g Nuvo Tank; Skkye 92W LED light Innovative Marine AuqaGadget - Skimmate Protein Skimmer, midsize Innovative Marine MiniMax All-In-One Media Reactor (PhosGuard) Nikon D90 35mm

08/28/2012, 01:03 PM	#2
Reefmedic79 Life and Reef Saver Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Tavares, Florida Posts: 6,202	I would use just a mechanical sponge filter for the QT filter if you plan on treating the fish prophylactically, carbon absorbs copper I believe, and will throw the proper dosing off. If you plan on using hyposalinity as a treatment then the carbon would be helpful. Treating a fish without symptoms of illness is a personal preference for most people. I personally suggest treating even without symptoms because a healthy fish can still be carrying the parasites. A full QT period should run between 5-10 weeks depending on the method used to rid the fish of parasites. Copper = 3-5 weeks; Hyposalinity = 6-8 weeks. As for where the water comes from in the QT, it doesn't really matter since very little denitrifying bacteria actually populate the water column. __________________ ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º>¸. ·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·.. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º> How much deeper would the ocean be if it didn't have sponges? P. Sherman 42 Wallaby Way Sid Current Tank Info: 40 Breeder, 20L Sump, 10G Fuge, JBJ A.T.O, 4" Reef Octopus, DIY Stand & Canopy, RapidLED Dimmable 36 Kit on 3 6" MakersLED Heatsink, MP10es

08/28/2012, 01:07 PM	#3
divinedragon13 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: payette idaho Posts: 84	agree

08/28/2012, 01:47 PM	#5
Mavrk Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: California - South Bay Area Posts: 2,775	Running carbon is fine if you are not treating. You can always remove the carbon if you treat, then put it back in to remove the residual medicine after the treatment period. Plan on at least a couple months in the QT, so you could get a fish now so it is ready to go when your tank is cycled. I don't treat for ich without any signs of an issue, but if I did I would use the tank transfer method since it is hard to mess up. I recently started treating with prazipro in QT since it is so mild on the fish. For water, I recommend making the salinity the same as the bag water. So find out the salinity first if getting from an LFS. I find most online stores to have really low salinity (around 20 ppt). It is easier on a fish to go from high salinity to low than the other way around. Water from the DT is usually buffered a little better, but if the tank is still cycling I wouldn't use it. I slowly bring the salinity up to the same as my DT by adding saltwater as topoff water until it is at the same 35 ppt level. Towards the end of the QT I start doing water changes with water from the DT so the pH and everything ends up the same and there is not further acclimation needed before going in the DT.