Ick i hate ICK

ILikeTurtles · 09/01/2012, 07:34 PM

I want to pull my freakkkking hair out this disease never goes away!!! I get it in every tank! I had a 125 gallon dosed the whole thing in copper safe. Ick was not present after treatment, i put all 10 fish in a 55 gallon still no signs of ick. I buy a 150 gallon start over, tank cycles i put the fish in the new tank and 2 days later full blown ick!!!! i cant catch all these fish i cant remove my rockwork, ive spent soooo much time and money on these fish treating this disease i qt properly has anyone went through this this!?! What do i do?!? Please help!

bbsal · 09/01/2012, 10:00 PM

i feel for you buddy! Im going thru the same thing right now. I had to take all my rockwork down and everything just to catch all the fish i now have them in hypo and so far so good.

I do have a flame angel that wasnt doing good in hyp i had to raise the salt back up a little just for him but now hes ok im just gonna move slower with him until he can withstand the 1.009.

Its such a pain. Your fish must of been carrying it the whole time and the stress from the move caused it to come out. Is it a reef tank there all in? If so your options are like mine very limited!

Best to just do hypo or copper. If you dont have corals and no flame angels or any angels for that matter then i would use copper i didnt cause i have the angeland mandrain goby and such so i rather use hypo.

You need anymore advise let me know im learning alot myself right now dealing with ich i hate it!

Triggerfish · 09/01/2012, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ILikeTurtles

I had a 125 gallon dosed the whole thing in copper safe. Ick was not present after treatment, i put all 10 fish in a 55 gallon still no signs of ick. I buy a 150 gallon start over, tank cycles i put the fish in the new tank and 2 days later full blown ick

you have to be more specific as to what you actually did here; time periods and so on.... there was an oversight somewhere along the way.

ILikeTurtles · 09/01/2012, 10:25 PM

Hey ya it was a reef tank. I just moved the coral back to the 55 gallon im going to try hypo. Im thinking about doing fish only, i feel like i can control disease better and it will keep me from being on this fine line of giving up on it all. Sucks i love the look of coral

Triggerfish · 09/01/2012, 10:37 PM

any rock that was in infected tank would need to remain with out fish for 10-12 weeks did you do that?

ILikeTurtles · 09/01/2012, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triggerfish

any rock that was in infected tank would need to remain with out fish for 10-12 weeks did you do that?

I just took took the coral an inverts out and lowered my salinity in my dt(150) gallon with just fish inside. Blue hippo is covered hopefully it can recover

h2so4hurts · 09/02/2012, 10:26 AM

How long did you leave it at 1.009?? If you didn't do it for 9 weeks then there's no way you killed the crypto. I think everyone on this forum would tell you to never do hypo in your DT. You should move all of your fish to a HT system and treat them with copper or do tank transfer for 12 days and leave the display fallow for 9 weeks. If you read the stickies and listen to the advice here, you'll cure your problem. You can't rush it or cut corners.

snorvich · 09/02/2012, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triggerfish

you have to be more specific as to what you actually did here; time periods and so on.... there was an oversight somewhere along the way.

Exactly.

snorvich · 09/02/2012, 04:03 PM

I am not a fan of hypo since most people are not able to do it correctly. Even using a properly calibrated refractometer, the standard error of the mean for that particular instrument may mean that you were not "in range" even if you actually measured frequently. As h2so4hurts indicates above, tank transfer is a better way by far, but fish must go into a clean tank afterwards.

MrTuskfish · 09/03/2012, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snorvich

I am not a fan of hypo since most people are not able to do it correctly. Even using a properly calibrated refractometer, the standard error of the mean for that particular instrument may mean that you were not "in range" even if you actually measured frequently. As h2so4hurts indicates above, tank transfer is a better way by far, but fish must go into a clean tank afterwards.

I'm not a fan either. In addition to refractometer problems, topping off can also be a problem. An ATO is a big help. It doesn't take much evaporation to nudge the SG above 1.009 and that window, however brief, can allow ich to re-start its life cycle. I have no proof, but I think there are probably strains of ich around than can tolerate a lower SG.

snorvich · 09/03/2012, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrTuskfish

. . . edited . . . I have no proof, but I think there are probably strains of ich around than can tolerate a lower SG.

More recently, studies have demonstrated different salinity tolerances among strains of Cryptocaryon. Yambot (2003) described one Taiwanese outbreak occurring in sea bream Sparus sarba at a salinity of 5 g/L, and another outbreak in sea perch. There are at least two strains of cryptocaryon irritans that live well below previously documented preferred salinities for treatment. While the odds of encountering them is relatively low, this particular treatment is not my preference and if you read various posts here, there has been anecdotal evidence presented where hyposalinity appeared to be ineffective. Whether that is the result of a salinity resistant strain or whether the treatment protocol was flawed cannot be determined.

vaporized · 09/03/2012, 04:55 PM

I like Hypo the best. The tank transfer method is kind of a pain having to keep all kinds of tanks. I know it works, just a bit cumbersome. Just be sure to calibrate you refractometer and do daily water changes and it works. I had one insident where it didn't work, but for some reason a yellow tang could not kick they Ich.

ILikeTurtles · 09/03/2012, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vaporized

I like Hypo the best. The tank transfer method is kind of a pain having to keep all kinds of tanks. I know it works, just a bit cumbersome. Just be sure to calibrate you refractometer and do daily water changes and it works. I had one insident where it didn't work, but for some reason a yellow tang could not kick they Ich.

Ya im doin hypo in main tank. This is my last resort. If it dosent work im doing a coral only tank or maybe fish only. It dosent seem like it should be this difficult to have both

ILikeTurtles · 09/03/2012, 05:05 PM

Thanks for the help guys im sure i did have a loop hole in my qt probally some rock i didnt qt all it takes is 1 i guess..

09/01/2012, 07:34 PM	#1
ILikeTurtles Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: tampa fl Posts: 31	Ick i hate ICK I want to pull my freakkkking hair out this disease never goes away!!! I get it in every tank! I had a 125 gallon dosed the whole thing in copper safe. Ick was not present after treatment, i put all 10 fish in a 55 gallon still no signs of ick. I buy a 150 gallon start over, tank cycles i put the fish in the new tank and 2 days later full blown ick!!!! i cant catch all these fish i cant remove my rockwork, ive spent soooo much time and money on these fish treating this disease i qt properly has anyone went through this this!?! What do i do?!? Please help! Last edited by Dino; 09/02/2012 at 05:50 AM. Reason: language

09/02/2012, 10:26 AM	#7
h2so4hurts Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Durham, NC Posts: 462	How long did you leave it at 1.009?? If you didn't do it for 9 weeks then there's no way you killed the crypto. I think everyone on this forum would tell you to never do hypo in your DT. You should move all of your fish to a HT system and treat them with copper or do tank transfer for 12 days and leave the display fallow for 9 weeks. If you read the stickies and listen to the advice here, you'll cure your problem. You can't rush it or cut corners. __________________ 350G SPS reef - tomato clowns&sebae nem-sunburst anthias- Carberryi Anthias-Powder Blue-Whitecheeck-Desjardini Sailfin-Purple Tang-Royal Gramma-Copperband-Spotfin-Engineer Goby-Moorish Idol

09/02/2012, 04:03 PM	#9
snorvich Team RC member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Outlander Posts: 40,953 Blog Entries: 46	I am not a fan of hypo since most people are not able to do it correctly. Even using a properly calibrated refractometer, the standard error of the mean for that particular instrument may mean that you were not "in range" even if you actually measured frequently. As h2so4hurts indicates above, tank transfer is a better way by far, but fish must go into a clean tank afterwards. __________________ Warmest regards, ~Steve~

09/01/2012, 10:00 PM	#2
bbsal Registered Member Join Date: May 2012 Posts: 34	i feel for you buddy! Im going thru the same thing right now. I had to take all my rockwork down and everything just to catch all the fish i now have them in hypo and so far so good. I do have a flame angel that wasnt doing good in hyp i had to raise the salt back up a little just for him but now hes ok im just gonna move slower with him until he can withstand the 1.009. Its such a pain. Your fish must of been carrying it the whole time and the stress from the move caused it to come out. Is it a reef tank there all in? If so your options are like mine very limited! Best to just do hypo or copper. If you dont have corals and no flame angels or any angels for that matter then i would use copper i didnt cause i have the angeland mandrain goby and such so i rather use hypo. You need anymore advise let me know im learning alot myself right now dealing with ich i hate it!

09/01/2012, 10:25 PM	#4
ILikeTurtles Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: tampa fl Posts: 31	Hey ya it was a reef tank. I just moved the coral back to the 55 gallon im going to try hypo. Im thinking about doing fish only, i feel like i can control disease better and it will keep me from being on this fine line of giving up on it all. Sucks i love the look of coral

09/01/2012, 10:37 PM	#5
Triggerfish Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Boston, MA Posts: 3,391	any rock that was in infected tank would need to remain with out fish for 10-12 weeks did you do that?

09/03/2012, 04:55 PM	#12
vaporized Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 84	I like Hypo the best. The tank transfer method is kind of a pain having to keep all kinds of tanks. I know it works, just a bit cumbersome. Just be sure to calibrate you refractometer and do daily water changes and it works. I had one insident where it didn't work, but for some reason a yellow tang could not kick they Ich.

09/03/2012, 05:05 PM	#14
ILikeTurtles Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: tampa fl Posts: 31	Thanks for the help guys im sure i did have a loop hole in my qt probally some rock i didnt qt all it takes is 1 i guess..