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Unread 10/06/2012, 09:25 PM   #1
aussienoob
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Question i have no clue

im new to the fish keeping hobby, jumped straight into saltwater
i just want people to point out all the flaws in my tank, also, i would like to know what kind of anemone my anemone is and if it looks happy/healthy

the pictures are pretty bad quality -_-




i have a clown fish pair
a longnose butterfly
a kleini butterfly
a bicolor angelfish
a hammer coral
a _____ anemone


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Unread 10/06/2012, 09:30 PM   #2
jacob.morgan78
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Looks kinda like a Duncan to me but a Duncan isn't an anemone.

Post some info about your tank... Lights, size, equipment... How long has it been up?

The more info you post, the more info you can get back.

Welcome!!!! Read the stickies and ask all your questions!!!


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Unread 10/06/2012, 09:43 PM   #3
hollister
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You will be lucky if he lives. This tank looks very new. And seems you have fish that arent reef safe. Do you have any powerheads?


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Unread 10/06/2012, 09:44 PM   #4
debincalif
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Your hammer doesn't look very happy...

More info about your tank would be helpful, as well as your water parameters.


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Unread 10/06/2012, 10:07 PM   #5
aussienoob
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ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
my tank is about 200L
i have 2 t5 marine glo lights
a berlin airlift protein skimmer
1 3000l/h power head
a 50w heater
an eheim 2213 filter
all my water parameters are fine ammonia is at 0 same goes for nitrates and nitrites

hollister, my tanks is a bit over a month old, it finished its cycle not too long ago, most of the stuff in there is only a few weeks old, my fish dont seen to pick at the corals though

debincalif, it might be because i just moved it? it look much better now

still dont know what kind of anemone it is, THANKS GUYS!


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Unread 10/06/2012, 10:09 PM   #6
aussienoob
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also, my long nose has a few white spots on its fine i think you can see one on its body in the photo, they are very small though, is it ich?


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Unread 10/06/2012, 10:12 PM   #7
hollister
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The anemone would like a more mature tank. Also in a new setup your tanks bio load is limited so add stock slowly as to let bacteria and pod population increase.

Everything else looks good , though i would use 2 powerheads listed 1200 gph or so. Split the differance. You want good flow all around the rocks front and back to reduce buildup in low spots. 2 PH's makes it easier to control flow.GL...


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Unread 10/06/2012, 10:12 PM   #8
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hmmm IMO you have not cycled your tank out yet completely I hope your anm lives and to it looks like a long tentecal verity I would let your tank mature a bit before adding much more load to it again this is only my opinion.


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Unread 10/06/2012, 10:14 PM   #9
hollister
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aussienoob View Post
also, my long nose has a few white spots on its fine i think you can see one on its body in the photo, they are very small though, is it ich?
Ick can be on most fish you buy but will never be seen unless fish gets stressed.


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Unread 10/06/2012, 10:25 PM   #10
aussienoob
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what do i feed the anemone?



Last edited by aussienoob; 10/06/2012 at 10:30 PM.
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Unread 10/07/2012, 07:10 AM   #11
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hi noob! welcome to reefing. i am not picking on you... rather giving you a bit of direction since you asked...first, please slow down. you said your tank's a month old and the inhabitants have been in there a few weeks. you also said your tank just finished cycling. this is a bad recipe for tank crash. to answer your question about the " anemone"...can't tell by the pic really what it is, but it is looking very unhappy. if it is an anemone, it requires a well established tank to thrive. if it dies, it will foul your tank very quickly. in a matter of hours.

i know it seems like water is water and once cycled it's all good, but reef tanks don't work that way. the water, rock, sand, biofilter, everything, needs time to mature and let the chemical changes taking place in a new tank settle out. various algae blooms naturally occur and each one changes the chemistry a bit. it takes time to mature, let alone get well conditioned.

so it sounds like your animals have been suffering through the cycle. can't tell for sure, but the longnose looks like it's got a pretty bad case of ich by the pic. it may just be a bad pic. the best way to solve an ich issue is to provide the most comfortable, stressfree, and stable environment you can. in a still cycling tank, which it probably is because the nitrifying bacteria is trying to catch up to the bioload, that is going to be difficult if not impossible. you might want to check sources like live aquaria to make sure your tank is a good size for the fish you've chosen.

so...just a couple things to think about. stop adding anything and let your tank settle for a month or two at least.
if you have or want to have an anemone, you need to do something about protecting it from your ph. read up on that.
read the stickies about ich and marine setup and maintenance. educate yourself. these are living creatures that are coming out of our oceans reefs. please be responsible.

a fts would be nice, but what i can see of it from the pics looks good, as far as aquascaping. i wish you the best of luck!


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Unread 10/07/2012, 10:03 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hollister View Post
Ick can be on most fish you buy but will never be seen unless fish gets stressed.
This is simply not true. Most fish do not carry ich and ich will always be a problem; the only question is when. Ich can be held down a while sometimes, but will always win in the end. Ich is easy to cure in a QT, very difficult in a DT. Ich problems are, by far, the biggest problems in the RC Forum disease section. Many/most from folks who knew it was there, but thought they could ignore it. Our hobby has a very high turnover rate and (IMO & IME); the mis-information surrounding ich, and other parasites, is a major contributor.

To the OP: The LNB appears to have ich, I think it will soon be showing up on other fish. Read the ich stickies in the disease section of the forum. I'd post this in the disease section if you do some research and agree that its ich. Ich will ruin this hobby for you if you don't eliminate it and start quarantining new fish. I sure wouldn't buy any new livestock until you've done a lot of research & reading. I think you're moving way too fast.


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Last edited by MrTuskfish; 10/07/2012 at 10:14 AM.
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Unread 10/07/2012, 11:07 PM   #13
aussienoob
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thanks guys


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Unread 10/07/2012, 11:17 PM   #14
aussienoob
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my lnb does have ich, could you tell me what i can do to keep the anemone (bubble tip i think) happy and alive and also what is the best option for me to handle the ich


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Unread 10/08/2012, 05:38 AM   #15
dinthbrgh
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i think top priority is to know your water parameters. you can't do anything until you know that. if you don't have a test kit you might want to pick one up today. they are not cheap, but necessary. you need to be testing for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph, and alkalinity, for now. if your lfs uses a real kit you can have them test it for you and write down the params. if they use test strips, don't waste your time. in a new tank you want to be testing at least weekly. you also need to know your specific gravity (or salinity). you need a hydrometer at the minimum for that. not totally accurate but at least it will give you a fix on things. not at all expensive. if you have the money, a refractometer is better.

start there. after you post params, we can better help you figure out what to do next. in the meantime, keep a close eye on the anemone. if it seems to get that close to dead, you might want to remove it so it doesn't foul the tank and kill everything else.

post your params and then we'll get you through the rest. it may not have a pretty outcome. but let's wait and see. DON'T start rushing to change things. stability is what's needed most now. hang in there.


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Unread 10/08/2012, 07:54 AM   #16
MrTuskfish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aussienoob View Post
my lnb does have ich, could you tell me what i can do to keep the anemone (bubble tip i think) happy and alive and also what is the best option for me to handle the ich
For the ich. Your whole system in infected, not just one fish.
First: Read the ich stickies in the disease section of the forum. All fish will need to be moved to a QT/HT and the DT left fishless for 9+ weeks. Inverts stay in the DT. The only cures are tank-transfer, copper, or hypo. There have been some good results with quinine drugs; but I have't used them. There are no cures that can be used in your DT. I'd post your problem in the disease section, some real ich experts hang out there. After this is over; quarantine all new fish and use a good QT regimen and never go through this again.


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Unread 10/08/2012, 08:23 AM   #17
dinthbrgh
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+1 ^ read the stickies! lots of proven info there. my posts are assuming you mean what you say when you titled "have no clue". it sounds to me like you got a tank from somewhere, added some lr and water with salt in it and started stocking. i apologise if you are farther along than that in your knowledge. if you can clue us in to how things got started we will better understand what you need to know.


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Unread 10/09/2012, 12:15 AM   #18
aussienoob
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everything is improving my lfs gave some medication for the ich
the only thing is dont know whats wrong with my bicolour angelfish, it just sits there and breathes really fast


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Unread 10/09/2012, 05:12 AM   #19
dinthbrgh
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i hope it is improving. so then...you've read the stickies? you've moved your fish to a quarantine tank, and are treating them there with a copper based med? you are testing to keep copper levels where they need to be? if the levels are off, it can kill your fish faster than heal them. i ask because lfs will tell you just about anything. depending on the lfs, it is often because they really just don't know anything. if your lfs gave you a reef safe treatment, it won't work. straight up. if they gave you a copper based med, and you are treating in your display tank, you will kill your nem and corals, and ruin the tank for any future corals.

hopefully you did your homework and are properly handling this. if you are, things should start looking up. keep us informed, and best of luck.


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Unread 10/10/2012, 05:13 AM   #20
aussienoob
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hi, thanks for the help, i have been using a reef safe medication and the ich seems to be clearing up, unfortunately though my bicolor angelfish died.

I was just wondering why most people say that reef safe meds dont work.

thanks


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Unread 10/10/2012, 03:26 PM   #21
dinthbrgh
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because it's been proven that copper is the only thing that actually kills ich. copper will also kill everything that is not a fish in your dt. and then it gets absorbed by the rock, sand, even the silicone sealant on the corners, and there will always be traces of copper in your tank...which will kill anything that is not a fish.

what you are probably seeing, that you think is the ich clearing up, is that it has moved to the next stage and the cysts have dropped off the fish and are now in the bottom of the tank. soon they will hatch and a multitude of ich parasites will then be swarming the tank looking for a fish host. what do you suppose is the end to that story?

so, you apparently did not read up on ich in the stickies. i sincerely wish you the best of luck, noob.


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Unread 10/10/2012, 03:39 PM   #22
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Aussienoob. sorry you are having problems. When I first started I took a lot of advice from the lfs and my tank went under quick. People here are trying to help. In this hobby there are no quick and easy ways or bottle cures. If you added the medication to your dt you are going to have problems with inverts and many other things. Really there are no reef safe meds. You should always have a quar. tank ready to put together at anytime. good luck.


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Unread 10/10/2012, 03:51 PM   #23
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u need to read a lot on the nems.... they are animals that require good amounts of light and a stable mature tank... I've heard people say they are easy to keep, this is not true IME...


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