Major Problem!

[metalhead789]

Hi, for the last 4 months now I've had this annoying algae problem and I can't get rid of it no matter what I do. I've done 25 gallon water changes, vodka dosing, prime dosing, 1 5 gallon and 1 10 gallon water change every week, less feeding, lights off for 4 days and than on for 3 hours for a week, scrubbing the rocks, blowing off all the detritus, and I just don't know what to do any more. The algae grows on my live rock, my sand, my glass, my protein skimmer, my filter tubes and my power head. My water parameters are: Nitrates 0, Phosphates .25, Nitrite 0, Ammonia 0, Calcium 640, PH 8.2. Salinity 1.024. I was using tap water but I switched to RO DI water for a while, than went to school and now I don`t have enough money so I use tap water again treated with prime. I clean out my filter with tank water about 2 - 4 times a month. I have 2 true percs 3` and 2, a mandarin goby, a seagrass filefish, and a green spotted puffer 4`. My tank is a 65 gallon with a rena XP3, 2 1050 GPH powerheads, 100lbs of live rock, I use reef salt, 60lbs of live sand 2 hydor slim skimmers. Attached are some pictures. Thanks in advance.

[Buzz1329]

Phosphates at .25 is the likely cause of the algae, which in turn is likely a result of the tap water. If you can't do an RO/DI filter, I'd recommend an oversized skimmer or a GFO filter. If you don't have a sump, I'd recommend you get a canister filter, load it with BRS GFO, and change it often. Good luck.

[metalhead789]

Originally Posted by Buzz1329

Phosphates at .25 is the likely cause of the algae, which in turn is likely a result of the tap water. If you can't do an RO/DI filter, I'd recommend an oversized skimmer or a GFO filter. If you don't have a sump, I'd recommend you get a canister filter, load it with BRS GFO, and change it often. Good luck.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...m?pcatid=23764

^ Media

Getting a phosphate reactor in january with christmas money but I just wanted to make sure. That would help right?

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...m?pcatid=11586

Reactor ^

[Buzz1329]

Originally Posted by metalhead789

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...m?pcatid=23764

^ Media

Getting a phosphate reactor in january with christmas money but I just wanted to make sure. That would help right?

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...m?pcatid=11586

Reactor ^

Absolutely. I would go with the Phosban 550 rather than the 150 BTW.

[metalhead789]

Originally Posted by Buzz1329

Absolutely. I would go with the Phosban 550 rather than the 150 BTW.

Seeing as how I'm placing a 350$ order, the extra 30$ wont kill me. Better safe than sorry. Thanks a lot! I appreciate it.

[Stomkat]

Why not just buy a RODI unit instead?

[kevin32]

Wouldn't the 150 be sufficient enough....? Why need to go that big if u dont need it.

[Lilrodyreefer]

I have the 150 on my 110g and it works awesome. The 550 is a huge reactor. I would def spend the money on an rodi. Well worth the money.

[Dsotto]

I would definitely go for the ro/di as part of that order. That is going to be a night and day difference on you tanks overall health. Also how old is your tank? It says you have been dealing with this for 4 months but all tanks go through this after start up. I added a next reef reactor with carbon and gfo to mine. It cleared the water up and took my phosphates to 0. chemiclean is a good quick fix for it but it will come back without lowering the phosphates.

[downbeach]

I would start at the source of your problem, by getting an RO/DI unit. With tap water high in PO4, NO3, silica, copper, etc., you are adding to the problem every time you do a WC or top off your tank. This may be an accumulative problem with the PO4, etc. being absorbed by your rock, substrate, etc. The long term effects of using tap water is that, even after you've stopped using it, there will be a residual affect and the unwanted nutrients/metals, will continue to leach out of your rock/substrate, back into your DT, providing and ongoing source of nutrients for the "algae", diatoms, etc. This will depend on how bad the tap water was, and how long you were using it. So, the sooner you stop using it the better.
What kind of production are you getting out of your skimmers? If it's not good, I might make that my next investment. Something like this. I'm assuming that, since you are using a canister filter, you don't have a sump.
Assuming that your test results are reasonably accurate, I think you'd be better served to run some form of GFO in the TLF 150 reactor your are considering.

[Palting]

You are going to spend a lot of money on the wrong equipment for your problem, IMO. Phosphates are only part of the problem, the main problem is the tap water and all the other impurities that are in it. $350+ for a phosphate reactor will only solve a part of that problem, and it will be like a dog chasing it's own tail. You add the impurities from the tap water, then remove it with the reactor, only to add it again when you do water change or top off with tap water. And you will be consuming reactor media and spending even more money. NOT a good idea for your problem.

Forget the phosphate reactor for now. Spend your Christmas money on an RODI unit and storage bins for storing RODI water. Maybe even a pump or two and plumbing to make water changes easier. Given time and good tank maintenance, that phosphate should go down and your problem should improve. Some time down the line, with birthday money or next Christmas money, you can get your reactor as a secondary support equipment. Or better yet, at that time set up a refugium. I have the Next Reef MRI reactor, used it with GFO for a few months, now it's sitting uselessly in storage since I started a refugium. Forget he reactor. It is a waste of money for you at this time.

[metalhead789]

Originally Posted by downbeach

I would start at the source of your problem, by getting an RO/DI unit. With tap water high in PO4, NO3, silica, copper, etc., you are adding to the problem every time you do a WC or top off your tank. This may be an accumulative problem with the PO4, etc. being absorbed by your rock, substrate, etc. The long term effects of using tap water is that, even after you've stopped using it, there will be a residual affect and the unwanted nutrients/metals, will continue to leach out of your rock/substrate, back into your DT, providing and ongoing source of nutrients for the "algae", diatoms, etc. This will depend on how bad the tap water was, and how long you were using it. So, the sooner you stop using it the better.
What kind of production are you getting out of your skimmers? If it's not good, I might make that my next investment. Something like this. I'm assuming that, since you are using a canister filter, you don't have a sump.
Assuming that your test results are reasonably accurate, I think you'd be better served to run some form of GFO in the TLF 150 reactor your are considering.

I was thinking Half GFO and half NPX Bioplastics, but I'm not sure if that would work. I am considering getting an RO/DI unit but not till I have my own place as there is no space for it. (I'm 18 and I live with my girlfriends parents, give me a break.) Once I finish school In my I guess ill be switching to RO/DI water as I can afford it but for the time being I can't. Thanks a lot everyone for your input. I appreciate it.

[Saltydrip]

Installing a RODI was the best thing I did. They are already ok with you having a tank set up. Explain the problem to them and at least ask if there is a way to do a RODI. You have a big investment in the 65gal so it's worth at least asking. You don't need storage and mixing containers. Just a cheap clean 5gal bucket. I get by just fine with that. Fire up the RODI and in 2 hours I have a bucket full of pure water!! I have mine tucked away down in the basement. It works out just fine down there.

[Stomkat]

There are portable units and some that attach to the faucet.

[JaYbIrD1969]

You can get a perfectly fine RO/DI filter system from filtersdirect in the $150 range. Throw in another $25 for a TDS meter and you will make the first excellent, affordable investment in moving forward.

[reefgeezer]

Any RO/DI can be portable. Buy a saddle clamp to tap a line from the cold water line (for copper) or install a small Tee (if PVC) and plumb a small ball valve between the source and a quick disconnect. Just attach the RO/DI unit using the QD, put the waste hose in the sink, and open the ball valve when you need it. When you're done, turn off the ball valve. disconnect the unit. and put it in the closet.

[metalhead789]

Originally Posted by reefgeezer

Any RO/DI can be portable. Buy a saddle clamp to tap a line from the cold water line (for copper) or install a small Tee (if PVC) and plumb a small ball valve between the source and a quick disconnect. Just attach the RO/DI unit using the QD, put the waste hose in the sink, and open the ball valve when you need it. When you're done, turn off the ball valve. disconnect the unit. and put it in the closet.

Woulf something like this work? http://filterdirect.com/product_info...feb2be889a8ed5