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01/06/2013, 11:18 PM | #1 |
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gguertin's 180g In Wall Build
My wife and I finally got a house and are now done moving my 125 from apartment to apartment! One of the first things on the list was building a new tank that is intended on being my final build... Somehow I always find a way to get a new tank every few years but I think putting it in the wall will make it a little more challenging to change.
I have been working on this for 1 week now and thought it was about time to start a build thread to see if there are any other ideas people may have for this Unfortunately I managed to drill my first tank at the wrong height causing a small setback but I have a second one showing up on Tuesday hoping to move forward with the overflow and plumbing to the sump. Pictures will come soon! |
01/06/2013, 11:33 PM | #2 |
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A picture of the hole drawn on the wall before any cutting. I was looking for placement and chose 43" high from the floor giving me plenty of room for my sump and hopefully the ability to put a small bar as a ledge in front of the tank on the finished side of the room.
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01/06/2013, 11:38 PM | #3 |
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Here is a picture of the wall coming down
Here is a picture of the sheetrock removed on the back side |
01/06/2013, 11:44 PM | #4 |
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Here is my dad scoring the sheetrock so that we can open up the hole without having to remove the hole wall of sheetrock on the finished side of the tank.
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01/06/2013, 11:50 PM | #5 |
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The sheet rock removed... We now have a hole in the wall of our basement
Here we cutout the studs This wall is not a load bearing wall but just because I wanted to be safe we framed it in like a window of a load bearing wall |
01/06/2013, 11:53 PM | #6 |
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A picture of the help
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01/06/2013, 11:58 PM | #7 |
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Legs of the stand going in
Here I am putting the top of the stand on and trying to level as much as possible Here is a picture of the layout of the stand. Here we are adding the support for the sump under the plywood bottom and the plywood for the bottom. I thought about not doing this and putting it right on the concrete but I was worried in the winter it would be difficult to keep the tank up to temperature and I like that it would be easier to pull my sump out in the future for rebuilts. |
01/07/2013, 12:02 AM | #8 |
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Started on my sump. I was looking for a sump that will be easy to do work with. I have used sumps that were longer but also narrower and higher making it more challenging to do the work that is sometimes needed. I decided on a 40g breeder tank to start with for this build. I am looking at a algae turf scrubber hoping to limit some water changes and possibly remove the skimmer from the mix. I will be running a Calcium reactor so I will need room for that but otherwise this should be pretty simple just heaters, probes, and turf scrubber.
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01/07/2013, 12:03 AM | #9 |
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dup
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01/07/2013, 12:56 AM | #10 |
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That is awesome that your family is helping you! My bfs family thinks we already have too many tanks as is >.<
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01/07/2013, 01:01 AM | #11 |
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good luck! waiting for your progress pics...
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01/07/2013, 05:10 AM | #12 |
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DP
Oh RC servers.... I think RC needs to start charging a little to every body and get real servers! Last edited by sabbath; 01/07/2013 at 05:16 AM. Reason: server messed up and DP |
01/07/2013, 05:11 AM | #13 |
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The new in wall yeah!
I'm famous.Great to see you finally getting your in wall aquarium setup!!! This is going to be fun to see it progress.
Have you decided to cure any live rock in buckets before you start it? |
01/07/2013, 10:08 AM | #14 |
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Tagging along - I love in-wall builds. Was going to do one myself but it's too much to do lately...
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Algae Scrubber Basics!!! GOOGLE "algaescrubber zoho" General Interest Forums --> Advanced Topics --> Algae Scrubber Basics (sticky) --> POSTS #3251-64 (Basics), #5206 (Cleaning), #6884 (LEDs), #729 |
01/07/2013, 01:47 PM | #15 |
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I will likely start something for the live rock next week. I did get my Calcium reactor last night though
Plans still for this week are 1. Getting the stand painted in an attempt to protect the wood a little if it ever got wet 2. Getting the new tank 3. Drilling the new tank correctly this time 4. Replacing 1 chamber on rodi and hanging it on the wall I did hear an interesting tid bit yesterday from a local club member that has a well and septic system like me. He mentioned that running his rodi directly to the tank will causes his di resin to go bad after just 2 weeks... But if he runs it to an auto top off bucket and turns it on manually or with a timer he can make it a month and a half... Since I also have a well and septic system here I am probably going to change from running directly to the tank like I had planned to filling some sort of reservoir. |
01/07/2013, 02:49 PM | #16 |
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I read something about well water and RO systems - just wanted to make sure you have this covered.
They make different membranes for city water (chlorinated) vs untreated well water. This may be a factor. If you plumb an RO system direct to the tank such that it will produce small amounts of water at a time (employing the use of an float valve in the sump) then this is your problem. What happens is that when the RO membrane is sitting in stagnant water (no supply pressure since float switch has shut off supply) the ions have time to migrate across the membrane. Normally in a running system, the ions do not have enough time to make it through. So what happens is that you get a rush of super high TDS water out of your effluent line from the RO straight into the DI every time it turns on, and this lasts for 5-30 or more seconds. so you can see the problem here. Try it once. Get a TDS meter and let your RO sit unused for a day or two. Then turn it on and put the meter in a little 4-6 oz collection cup and watch the TDS start out high (mine goes up to 150 or more) then pour it out and let it fill again, over and over, and see how long it takes to flush down to <20 ppm. Mine takes 2 or 3 minutes. So then what you do it install a membrane flusher, which you can buy at BRS but you can make your own too. All this is is a couple tees and a valve that allow you to bypass the flow restrictor on the waste line and allow the stagnant water to get flushed out of the housing. Run that for 30 seconds, then run out the effluent for 15 seconds and it will be better than your TDS after 2-3 minutes without flushing. So now that you have your TDS <20 (or <10 preferrably) then you run it through your DI - and it will last much, much longer. Another comment about well water (I grew up in Wayzata in a little neighborhood that had well water) you might want to add a couple additional pre-filter stages to really squeeze out the iron and other particles, if you don't already.
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Algae Scrubber Basics!!! GOOGLE "algaescrubber zoho" General Interest Forums --> Advanced Topics --> Algae Scrubber Basics (sticky) --> POSTS #3251-64 (Basics), #5206 (Cleaning), #6884 (LEDs), #729 |
01/07/2013, 03:22 PM | #17 |
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I talked with the filter guys in Duluth and got their well water setup... Hopefully I got the right membrane it is a tw30-1812-75
I am looking at adding an additional whole house filter and I have a 5 stage rodi. Is there a way to automate flushing the first 15 seconds or so of water? Would be pretty nice to be able to have my rodi run straight to the tank but if not I will build a water storage tank and just turn the rodi on and off when I want to fill the tank. |
01/07/2013, 04:41 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
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01/07/2013, 04:50 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
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01/07/2013, 05:23 PM | #20 |
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I would be interested in hearing how to do this simply also. Not to throw this thread OT too much but here is a more complicated method:
http://www.beananimal.com/projects/a...on-system.aspx
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Algae Scrubber Basics!!! GOOGLE "algaescrubber zoho" General Interest Forums --> Advanced Topics --> Algae Scrubber Basics (sticky) --> POSTS #3251-64 (Basics), #5206 (Cleaning), #6884 (LEDs), #729 |
01/07/2013, 05:54 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
A delay relay is wired like all relays. It just has an adjustment dial that you set to change state when it is powered on or off. So if it is set for say 15secs. When you power it on it will change to open or closed the contacts after the time is reached. In the example ATO I gave you would want a DPDT ( Double pole Double throw) This way it can do 2 things at the same time. Like when one contact is on the other is off. |
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01/07/2013, 06:27 PM | #22 |
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Hah I've been working on a relay control schematic for a wastewater lift station recently (EE is my job) so it's funny how things cross over in life
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Algae Scrubber Basics!!! GOOGLE "algaescrubber zoho" General Interest Forums --> Advanced Topics --> Algae Scrubber Basics (sticky) --> POSTS #3251-64 (Basics), #5206 (Cleaning), #6884 (LEDs), #729 |
01/07/2013, 06:44 PM | #23 | |
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Quote:
I wonder how important it is to flush the DI if I'm running it every 6hrs. Is the TDS creeping up on it already? |
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01/07/2013, 09:04 PM | #24 |
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Sabbath's way seems to make sense? BeanAnimal's way looks really cool but way beyond what I have time to work with right now... I need the cliff notes version lol
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01/08/2013, 10:33 PM | #25 |
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