Nitrates through the ROOF !!

new2reef22 · 03/30/2013, 08:17 AM

My tank has been up for 3 weeks now and my Nitrates are through the roof ! How can I fix this and how long should I wait to add fish

kegogut · 03/30/2013, 08:20 AM

Nitrates are part of the cycle. Its usually the last part of the cycle. If your ammonia and nitrites are at 0 and your nitrates are high,do a water change. Check your nitrates tomorrow and if they stay low your ready.

SABOB · 03/30/2013, 08:22 AM

What Test Kit are you using for Nitrates? API is notorious for being wrong for Nitrates.

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bnumair · 03/30/2013, 08:23 AM

agree. like advised above, if ammonia and nitrites spiked and now hit 0 and nitrates are high ur tank has cycled. u can do 50% water change that will cut ur nitrates to 50% and anything under 90ppm on nitrates fish will be ok to live. inverts and corals no for them under 20 and most suitable under 5.

new2reef22 · 03/30/2013, 09:04 AM

Sabob . Yes I am using API . What else can I use ? Thank everyone for your quick responses . This is such a great help .

new2reef22 · 03/30/2013, 09:06 AM

also my amonia and nitrites are at 0

SABOB · 03/30/2013, 09:13 AM

I'd suggest taking a water sample to a LFS and have them check it, or a friend with a different Test kit.My API Nitrate test kit sample turned blood red,I freaked out. Took a sample to a local store that tested a sample and was told Nitrates at 10 ppm.Have since heard issues with their Nitrate tests, Ammonia and Nitrites are good tests

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kegogut · 03/30/2013, 11:14 AM

Well,before you go to the LFS for a test,call them and ask them what test theyre using. Some use API as well. If they use Salifert or Red Sea then your gtg. You can also buy them for home use. Theyre about twice the cost of API but worth it in some cases.

I myself am using API kits,but I also go to the LFS every couple weeks anyway for one thing or another so I get it tested and compare the results with each other.

Also if your using a cheap Hydrometer I would strongly suggest you get a Refractometer as soon as you can. I just had a buddy's tank crash because his Hydro was reading .025 when in reality it was .029 or higher. It will be one of your best investments for long term success.

Sk8r · 03/30/2013, 11:16 AM

I've always preferred Salifert for ease of use. On some other kits I can get 3 different results when repeating the test in the same session. With Salifert, I get one. Period.

powdertang05 · 03/30/2013, 07:46 PM

water changes are the easiest fix. Maybe check your water. I doubt its the problem but Ive seen worse water conditions. I would take a water sample to LFS. I had good luck with tropic marin and Elos test as well.

cap032 · 03/30/2013, 08:07 PM

Dont sweat the Nitrates. Mine got near 150ppm doing a fishless cycle with ammonia. You will clean them up with a large water change when your cycle is complete. For example, I did a 100 gallon water change (approx 80%) on my 125 at the end and the result left me with approx 14ppm. The one to be concerned with is Nitrites. If Nitrites get over 5ppm, it can potentially stall your cycle. If that happens, then you would want to do a water change to kick the cycle back in. Regarding the API kit, I have two. One is spot on with my Red Sea Pro kit, the other reads 3× higher! lol Right now many RC sponsors have Easter sales going on, you could get the Red Sea Pro Algae Control kit (Nitrate & Phosphate) for about $35. Red Sea also sells refills (much cheaper) so you dont have to keep buying the whole kit every time.

keithhays · 03/30/2013, 08:13 PM

I wouldn't freak-out, if you had some decent ammonia and nitrite readings during the cycle, then having very high nitrate is what should be happening. Its actually a good sign and not a bad one. I worry about people who finish a cycle on a new tank and they have very little nitrate; it tells me they didn't have a very robust cycle.

At this point, you should do a very large water change to get the nitrates within the range that you are comfortable with and then start slowly adding fish.

Remember the water itself does not contain the bacteria you have spent the last several weeks cycling for; its on the rocks, substrate, and filters, but it does contain all of the waste from it which you now need to get rid of.

Happy reefing!

new2reef22 · 04/11/2013, 09:41 PM

Thanks for all your help. Did about a 50% water change turned on my skimmer about 5 days ago have a tin of what looks like brown hair alge or maybe diatoms everywhere. Left my lights off for the last 3 days and didn't seem to help. Nitrates afe still real high like red in color within 2 minutes. Should I just drain it and start over ?

jepuskar · 04/11/2013, 10:57 PM

Are you still using the API test kit for Nitrates?

foundnemo11 · 04/11/2013, 11:13 PM

I think api reads high after a certain amount. Ehen i first started my nitrates were over 100 and coral anemone fish were acting fine. I dod water changes everyother day and still stayed the same . I think they are high but maybe not as high as your test reads. Just my opinion from my own experience i could be wrong in your case

03/30/2013, 08:17 AM	#1
new2reef22 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Posts: 12	Nitrates through the ROOF !! My tank has been up for 3 weeks now and my Nitrates are through the roof ! How can I fix this and how long should I wait to add fish

03/30/2013, 08:20 AM	#2
kegogut Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: St.Louis Posts: 5,052	Nitrates are part of the cycle. Its usually the last part of the cycle. If your ammonia and nitrites are at 0 and your nitrates are high,do a water change. Check your nitrates tomorrow and if they stay low your ready. __________________ Dave. "I have learned all kinds of things from my many mistakes. The one thing I never learn is to stop making them." --Nicomo Cosca. Current Tank Info: 225 mixed w/ 225 sump 550 lbs live rock,3x MarinePure ceramic blocks,Skimz SM201,Geo 618 CR,Vectra L1,DOS automatic water changes,3x 250w MH w/ 4x actinic T5,All ran by Apex thru Fusion.--57 community tank w/ OR T-247,120 nem tank.

03/30/2013, 08:22 AM	#3
SABOB Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: San Antonio,TX Posts: 207	What Test Kit are you using for Nitrates? API is notorious for being wrong for Nitrates. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ To all Military...Thanks for Serving Current Tank Info: 12gl NanoCube,55gl softies,fish

03/30/2013, 08:23 AM	#4
bnumair Dr. Reef at ur service Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tulsa, Ok, USA Posts: 7,751 Blog Entries: 15	agree. like advised above, if ammonia and nitrites spiked and now hit 0 and nitrates are high ur tank has cycled. u can do 50% water change that will cut ur nitrates to 50% and anything under 90ppm on nitrates fish will be ok to live. inverts and corals no for them under 20 and most suitable under 5. __________________ Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE

03/30/2013, 09:13 AM	#7
SABOB Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: San Antonio,TX Posts: 207	I'd suggest taking a water sample to a LFS and have them check it, or a friend with a different Test kit.My API Nitrate test kit sample turned blood red,I freaked out. Took a sample to a local store that tested a sample and was told Nitrates at 10 ppm.Have since heard issues with their Nitrate tests, Ammonia and Nitrites are good tests Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ To all Military...Thanks for Serving Current Tank Info: 12gl NanoCube,55gl softies,fish

03/30/2013, 09:04 AM	#5
new2reef22 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Posts: 12	Sabob . Yes I am using API . What else can I use ? Thank everyone for your quick responses . This is such a great help .

03/30/2013, 09:06 AM	#6
new2reef22 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Posts: 12	also my amonia and nitrites are at 0

03/30/2013, 11:14 AM	#8
kegogut Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: St.Louis Posts: 5,052	Well,before you go to the LFS for a test,call them and ask them what test theyre using. Some use API as well. If they use Salifert or Red Sea then your gtg. You can also buy them for home use. Theyre about twice the cost of API but worth it in some cases. I myself am using API kits,but I also go to the LFS every couple weeks anyway for one thing or another so I get it tested and compare the results with each other. Also if your using a cheap Hydrometer I would strongly suggest you get a Refractometer as soon as you can. I just had a buddy's tank crash because his Hydro was reading .025 when in reality it was .029 or higher. It will be one of your best investments for long term success. __________________ Dave. "I have learned all kinds of things from my many mistakes. The one thing I never learn is to stop making them." --Nicomo Cosca. Current Tank Info: 225 mixed w/ 225 sump 550 lbs live rock,3x MarinePure ceramic blocks,Skimz SM201,Geo 618 CR,Vectra L1,DOS automatic water changes,3x 250w MH w/ 4x actinic T5,All ran by Apex thru Fusion.--57 community tank w/ OR T-247,120 nem tank.

03/30/2013, 11:16 AM	#9
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	I've always preferred Salifert for ease of use. On some other kits I can get 3 different results when repeating the test in the same session. With Salifert, I get one. Period. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

03/30/2013, 07:46 PM	#10
powdertang05 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Hayward, CA Posts: 613	water changes are the easiest fix. Maybe check your water. I doubt its the problem but Ive seen worse water conditions. I would take a water sample to LFS. I had good luck with tropic marin and Elos test as well.

03/30/2013, 08:07 PM	#11
cap032 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Alabama Posts: 611	Dont sweat the Nitrates. Mine got near 150ppm doing a fishless cycle with ammonia. You will clean them up with a large water change when your cycle is complete. For example, I did a 100 gallon water change (approx 80%) on my 125 at the end and the result left me with approx 14ppm. The one to be concerned with is Nitrites. If Nitrites get over 5ppm, it can potentially stall your cycle. If that happens, then you would want to do a water change to kick the cycle back in. Regarding the API kit, I have two. One is spot on with my Red Sea Pro kit, the other reads 3× higher! lol Right now many RC sponsors have Easter sales going on, you could get the Red Sea Pro Algae Control kit (Nitrate & Phosphate) for about $35. Red Sea also sells refills (much cheaper) so you dont have to keep buying the whole kit every time. Last edited by cap032; 03/30/2013 at 08:15 PM.

03/30/2013, 08:13 PM	#12
keithhays Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Tennessee Posts: 1,259	I wouldn't freak-out, if you had some decent ammonia and nitrite readings during the cycle, then having very high nitrate is what should be happening. Its actually a good sign and not a bad one. I worry about people who finish a cycle on a new tank and they have very little nitrate; it tells me they didn't have a very robust cycle. At this point, you should do a very large water change to get the nitrates within the range that you are comfortable with and then start slowly adding fish. Remember the water itself does not contain the bacteria you have spent the last several weeks cycling for; its on the rocks, substrate, and filters, but it does contain all of the waste from it which you now need to get rid of. Happy reefing!

04/11/2013, 09:41 PM	#13
new2reef22 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Posts: 12	Thanks for all your help. Did about a 50% water change turned on my skimmer about 5 days ago have a tin of what looks like brown hair alge or maybe diatoms everywhere. Left my lights off for the last 3 days and didn't seem to help. Nitrates afe still real high like red in color within 2 minutes. Should I just drain it and start over ?

04/11/2013, 10:57 PM	#14
jepuskar Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: NW Indiana Posts: 595	Are you still using the API test kit for Nitrates?

04/11/2013, 11:13 PM	#15
foundnemo11 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 839	I think api reads high after a certain amount. Ehen i first started my nitrates were over 100 and coral anemone fish were acting fine. I dod water changes everyother day and still stayed the same . I think they are high but maybe not as high as your test reads. Just my opinion from my own experience i could be wrong in your case __________________ I am a compulsive liar, and a millionaire. Current Tank Info: 75 gallon mixed reef, mostly sps, bubble magnus skimmer nac5, Reefbreeders Photon48, hippo tang, kole tang, 2 clownfish, 3 chromis, 1 cleaner wrasse, 1 cleaner shrimp, crabs/snails