High Temps, Frustrated.

PaulieReef · 07/06/2013, 08:03 AM

So with summer here we all always have tank heat issues.

My tank sits around 82-84 degrees all the time.

Possible heat sources:
6x54 t5 lights, vortech, koralina power head, insump protein skimmer, CPF Sump night (2 bulb), return pump, heater.

Trying to cool things off:
-House is 74 degrees
-Fan across top of the water
-More surface agitation

Conclusions:
Heater might be broke, to test this I took the heater out of the tank to see if the temp drops. Possibly stuck on?

Any ideas? I am trying to hold off on a cooler until next summer, reason being I have only 2 sps in the tank and mostly LPS which seems to be doing amazing.

I read about the ice packs and fans, any other random ideas? Might install some sump fans soon. I run a fan across the top of my water for now to increase evap.

Thanks!

Breadman03 · 07/06/2013, 08:15 AM

82-84=no problem. It just gives you less margin for error on the high side. The main thing is stability. My tank has been improving since I bumped my temp up from 79 to 82, though it has only been about 6 weeks.

Tickle · 07/06/2013, 08:21 AM

My season table on my apex will be bumping my temp up to 84 pretty quick. Its part of nature I wouldn't worry about it.

sanababit · 07/06/2013, 08:58 AM

What they said, 82-84 is nothing, just keep an eye on it and dont try to cool it off really fast it would just create more problems, relax, lol

Sana

PaulieReef · 07/06/2013, 09:11 AM

Oh ok.. everyone talks about there tank being 78. didn't know it was normal 82-84 range :P

DerekFF · 07/06/2013, 09:17 AM

That's just a normal safe temp zone people try and stay in. Like other have said 82-84 is still well within normal. 87+ you might start to worry at that point. 90 and your in trouble.

MrTuskfish · 07/06/2013, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sanababit

What they said, 82-84 is nothing, just keep an eye on it and dont try to cool it off really fast it would just create more problems, relax, lol

Sana

I agree. Some reefs in nature can easily hit 90F. Just unplug the heater.

ca1ore · 07/06/2013, 09:54 AM

82 to 84 is fine, however if your room is nominally at 74, it means you have 8-10 degrees of heat being added to the tank, which IMO is quite a lot. The heat culprits in my tank were lighting and submersible pumps.

dmh41532 · 07/06/2013, 01:55 PM

my livingroom is 95

fans and ice packs keep it at 84, I was always told fluctuations will kill fish and anything above 83 will bleach corals. I wouldn't be too concerned. just monitor the temp, i wouldn't let it get above 84.

PaulieReef · 07/06/2013, 03:39 PM

Yeah I have a in sump protein skimmer, carbon pump, return pump and a power head and lights..

but i have t5 lighting which shouldnt be too bad. Guess as long as its a constant 82-84 isnt to bad lol

dmh41532 · 07/06/2013, 06:19 PM

just keep and eye out for signs of stress, and don't allow the temp to drop too fast. t5 lights shouldn't give off much heat. does your lighting unit have cooling fans built in?

PaulieReef · 07/06/2013, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmh41532

just keep and eye out for signs of stress, and don't allow the temp to drop too fast. t5 lights shouldn't give off much heat. does your lighting unit have cooling fans built in?

yup

My light!

kga943 · 07/06/2013, 07:32 PM

mine is at 83.2 cools off some when lights go out

crsswift70 · 07/06/2013, 07:44 PM

Remove the heater. You never mentioned the brand of return pump. I removed a mag5 and my temp dropped quite a bit. Changed to led's and it dropped another 4-5 degrees. If the hood is not well ventilated, the heat could be building up in there and heating the water as well.

PaulieReef · 07/06/2013, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crsswift70

Remove the heater. You never mentioned the brand of return pump. I removed a mag5 and my temp dropped quite a bit. Changed to led's and it dropped another 4-5 degrees. If the hood is not well ventilated, the heat could be building up in there and heating the water as well.

Heater is in the tank but still turned unplugged, I take the hood off during the day and run a fan across the water for better ventilation. Return pump is a quiet one 3000

downbeach · 07/07/2013, 04:13 AM

Have you checked the temp with another thermometer? As has been mentioned, as long as your animals are OK, those temps are fine. I would however get a controller for the heater, those self contained, internal heater controls are notorious for sticking in the "on" position. When was the last time you removed your pumps for a good cleaning?

Mudbeaver · 07/07/2013, 06:12 AM

Its not critical , but I can tell you right now, if you want to change something in your system that will lower your systems temp, your T5 would be it. LEDs would shave off a few degrees for sure no problem, they also last longer than tubes, no frequent replacement and less bulky just so you know. my 2 cent. Here a good brand for your system, I assume your 75g is 48x18x21. You would need two of these....

http://www.marinedepot.com/Maxspect_...FILDTS-vi.html

TimeConsumer · 07/07/2013, 06:36 AM

My tank is also lit by 6x54w T5 and gets to about 82 with an ambient temp of 74 and my fans blowing. It sounds about right, but it can't hurt to check the heater. Oh, and my return pump is a Mag 9 that uses 90w of juice.

fishmate · 07/07/2013, 07:23 AM

just be careful not to change things too quickly

you can easily keep things just fine, as long as you keep it stable

changes are what causes problems

Peter Eichler · 07/07/2013, 10:42 AM

I don't know why people still harp on this so much in the hobby about temperature stability... Temperatures on a reef change frequently and dramatically and also tend to have stead shifts of several degrees from day to night. When it comes to temperature, reef corals and fish are quite tolerant to swings within a range (roughly low 70's to high 80's). In fact, when it comes to bleaching events and damage known to be done on reefs as a result of temperature, it's stable and prolonged temperatures at the high and low end of the range that seems to be the most detrimental, not short periods of time at the extremes with a lot of fluctuation.

Mudbeaver · 07/07/2013, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter Eichler

I don't know why people still harp on this so much in the hobby about temperature stability... Temperatures on a reef change frequently and dramatically and also tend to have stead shifts of several degrees from day to night. When it comes to temperature, reef corals and fish are quite tolerant to swings within a range (roughly low 70's to high 80's). In fact, when it comes to bleaching events and damage known to be done on reefs as a result of temperature, it's stable and prolonged temperatures at the high and low end of the range that seems to be the most detrimental, not short periods of time at the extremes with a lot of fluctuation.

I'm no expert but I don't think that on the natural reef the temp doesn't swings 10 degrees in one night in the ocean , the biologist cry doom when those shifts .5 degrees . The point being the coral can't move away to better waters for his optimum growth and longevity I guess, stress becomes a factor.

crsswift70 · 07/07/2013, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter Eichler

I don't know why people still harp on this so much in the hobby about temperature stability... Temperatures on a reef change frequently and dramatically and also tend to have stead shifts of several degrees from day to night. When it comes to temperature, reef corals and fish are quite tolerant to swings within a range (roughly low 70's to high 80's). In fact, when it comes to bleaching events and damage known to be done on reefs as a result of temperature, it's stable and prolonged temperatures at the high and low end of the range that seems to be the most detrimental, not short periods of time at the extremes with a lot of fluctuation.

I agree, but only if the corals and fish are used to that sort of change. No one is telling him that the water is too warm, they are just telling him how to possibly lower the temp as it is closer to the high range. In my book, it is better to keep you tank at the lowest temp possible (within range) by using equipment with less heat transfer. This often times means less energy used as well which equates to lower power bills. I don't have a chiller or a heater in my tank. It stays very close to room temp year round.

Mudbeaver · 07/07/2013, 01:53 PM

How often do you clean your pumps, that's your, return, skimmer, vortech and koralina, into a solution of vinegar and water. Build up of calcium will create friction within the impeller and make the motor work more and thus create more heat and transfer it to the outer casing and water. Usually every 4 months is a good rule of thumb, disassembling it and cleaning and running it into that solution of vinegar and water takes out the deposit of calcium, specially if your using a reactor or dosing calcium. You'll also find out that your pump will be also run quieter after that little bath.

PaulieReef · 07/07/2013, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by downbeach

Have you checked the temp with another thermometer? As has been mentioned, as long as your animals are OK, those temps are fine. I would however get a controller for the heater, those self contained, internal heater controls are notorious for sticking in the "on" position. When was the last time you removed your pumps for a good cleaning?

Last time everything sat in a good vinegar bath for a day was about 4 months ago. I clean my powerheads once a month for a good scrubbing, do a brush off every two weeks. Might do this again soon let everything sit in a nice bath of vinegar.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudbeaver

Its not critical , but I can tell you right now, if you want to change something in your system that will lower your systems temp, your T5 would be it. LEDs would shave off a few degrees for sure no problem, they also last longer than tubes, no frequent replacement and less bulky just so you know. my 2 cent. Here a good brand for your system, I assume your 75g is 48x18x21. You would need two of these....

http://www.marinedepot.com/Maxspect_...FILDTS-vi.html

Am looking into LEDs just not first on my list, need to survive these last two months then it starts to get cold again! Think my order of purchases are controller, calcium reactor, leds then chiller (wont need chiller till next summer).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudbeaver

How often do you clean your pumps, that's your, return, skimmer, vortech and koralina, into a solution of vinegar and water. Build up of calcium will create friction within the impeller and make the motor work more and thus create more heat and transfer it to the outer casing and water. Usually every 4 months is a good rule of thumb, disassembling it and cleaning and running it into that solution of vinegar and water takes out the deposit of calcium, specially if your using a reactor or dosing calcium. You'll also find out that your pump will be also run quieter after that little bath.

As mentioned above its getting to that 4 month mark! going to be doing this very soon, most likely next weekend.

alton · 07/08/2013, 05:29 AM

Buy a Kilo-Watt meter and plugin all your internal pumps. If you end up with them drawing 150 watts, then you have a 150w heater running 24/7.

07/06/2013, 08:03 AM	#1
PaulieReef Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Lafayette, LA Posts: 291	High Temps, Frustrated. So with summer here we all always have tank heat issues. My tank sits around 82-84 degrees all the time. Possible heat sources: 6x54 t5 lights, vortech, koralina power head, insump protein skimmer, CPF Sump night (2 bulb), return pump, heater. Trying to cool things off: -House is 74 degrees -Fan across top of the water -More surface agitation Conclusions: Heater might be broke, to test this I took the heater out of the tank to see if the temp drops. Possibly stuck on? Any ideas? I am trying to hold off on a cooler until next summer, reason being I have only 2 sps in the tank and mostly LPS which seems to be doing amazing. I read about the ice packs and fans, any other random ideas? Might install some sump fans soon. I run a fan across the top of my water for now to increase evap. Thanks!

07/06/2013, 08:21 AM	#3
Tickle Registered Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Pardeeville Wi Posts: 272	My season table on my apex will be bumping my temp up to 84 pretty quick. Its part of nature I wouldn't worry about it. __________________ 125 in wall with end overflow, 50&100 rubbermaid basement sump, 2x250 20k halides, 200+ of live rock, aqua C ev180 skimmer w/mag 9.5, Apex AquaController Current Tank Info: 20L custom AIO, Kessil A150, Budget build

07/06/2013, 08:58 AM	#4
sanababit Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Uranus Posts: 3,094	What they said, 82-84 is nothing, just keep an eye on it and dont try to cool it off really fast it would just create more problems, relax, lol Sana __________________ Senior Member of the "Hardly any Water Changes, Temp Swinging, T5ing, No Qtining, Frag Exchanging for Fish Food Current Tank Info: 90RR inwall, Octopuss Skimmer, 2 MP40 wQD, 1 MP10 WQD, 2 Radions G4 Pro, Apex Doser, Apex Controller, 400w heater, 30 Gal Sump, Biopellets, Carbon, Gfo, Macroalgae

07/07/2013, 06:12 AM	#17
Mudbeaver Registered Member. Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Gatineau , Canada Posts: 1,379	Its not critical , but I can tell you right now, if you want to change something in your system that will lower your systems temp, your T5 would be it. LEDs would shave off a few degrees for sure no problem, they also last longer than tubes, no frequent replacement and less bulky just so you know. my 2 cent. Here a good brand for your system, I assume your 75g is 48x18x21. You would need two of these.... http://www.marinedepot.com/Maxspect_...FILDTS-vi.html Last edited by Mudbeaver; 07/07/2013 at 06:18 AM.

07/07/2013, 06:36 AM	#18
TimeConsumer Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: New Orleans, La Posts: 1,919	My tank is also lit by 6x54w T5 and gets to about 82 with an ambient temp of 74 and my fans blowing. It sounds about right, but it can't hurt to check the heater. Oh, and my return pump is a Mag 9 that uses 90w of juice. __________________ Steve - Retired from reefing, for now.

07/06/2013, 08:15 AM	#2
Breadman03 New Old School Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Luzerne County, PA Posts: 3,293	82-84=no problem. It just gives you less margin for error on the high side. The main thing is stability. My tank has been improving since I bumped my temp up from 79 to 82, though it has only been about 6 weeks.

07/06/2013, 09:11 AM	#5
PaulieReef Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Lafayette, LA Posts: 291	Oh ok.. everyone talks about there tank being 78. didn't know it was normal 82-84 range :P

07/06/2013, 09:17 AM	#6
DerekFF Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 219	That's just a normal safe temp zone people try and stay in. Like other have said 82-84 is still well within normal. 87+ you might start to worry at that point. 90 and your in trouble.

07/06/2013, 09:54 AM	#8
ca1ore Grizzled & Cynical Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Stamford, CT Posts: 17,319	82 to 84 is fine, however if your room is nominally at 74, it means you have 8-10 degrees of heat being added to the tank, which IMO is quite a lot. The heat culprits in my tank were lighting and submersible pumps.

07/06/2013, 01:55 PM	#9
dmh41532 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Bellefontaine Ohio Posts: 771	my livingroom is 95 fans and ice packs keep it at 84, I was always told fluctuations will kill fish and anything above 83 will bleach corals. I wouldn't be too concerned. just monitor the temp, i wouldn't let it get above 84.

07/06/2013, 03:39 PM	#10
PaulieReef Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Lafayette, LA Posts: 291	Yeah I have a in sump protein skimmer, carbon pump, return pump and a power head and lights.. but i have t5 lighting which shouldnt be too bad. Guess as long as its a constant 82-84 isnt to bad lol

07/06/2013, 06:19 PM	#11
dmh41532 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Bellefontaine Ohio Posts: 771	just keep and eye out for signs of stress, and don't allow the temp to drop too fast. t5 lights shouldn't give off much heat. does your lighting unit have cooling fans built in?

07/06/2013, 07:32 PM	#13
kga943 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 504	mine is at 83.2 cools off some when lights go out

07/06/2013, 07:44 PM	#14
crsswift70 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Spanish Fort, AL Posts: 1,032	Remove the heater. You never mentioned the brand of return pump. I removed a mag5 and my temp dropped quite a bit. Changed to led's and it dropped another 4-5 degrees. If the hood is not well ventilated, the heat could be building up in there and heating the water as well.

07/07/2013, 04:13 AM	#16
downbeach Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Smyrna, Delaware Posts: 3,767	Have you checked the temp with another thermometer? As has been mentioned, as long as your animals are OK, those temps are fine. I would however get a controller for the heater, those self contained, internal heater controls are notorious for sticking in the "on" position. When was the last time you removed your pumps for a good cleaning?

07/07/2013, 07:23 AM	#19
fishmate Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 144	just be careful not to change things too quickly you can easily keep things just fine, as long as you keep it stable changes are what causes problems __________________ How do I change this?

07/07/2013, 10:42 AM	#20
Peter Eichler Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Milwaukee Posts: 6,081	I don't know why people still harp on this so much in the hobby about temperature stability... Temperatures on a reef change frequently and dramatically and also tend to have stead shifts of several degrees from day to night. When it comes to temperature, reef corals and fish are quite tolerant to swings within a range (roughly low 70's to high 80's). In fact, when it comes to bleaching events and damage known to be done on reefs as a result of temperature, it's stable and prolonged temperatures at the high and low end of the range that seems to be the most detrimental, not short periods of time at the extremes with a lot of fluctuation.

07/07/2013, 01:53 PM	#23
Mudbeaver Registered Member. Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Gatineau , Canada Posts: 1,379	How often do you clean your pumps, that's your, return, skimmer, vortech and koralina, into a solution of vinegar and water. Build up of calcium will create friction within the impeller and make the motor work more and thus create more heat and transfer it to the outer casing and water. Usually every 4 months is a good rule of thumb, disassembling it and cleaning and running it into that solution of vinegar and water takes out the deposit of calcium, specially if your using a reactor or dosing calcium. You'll also find out that your pump will be also run quieter after that little bath. Last edited by Mudbeaver; 07/07/2013 at 02:01 PM.

07/08/2013, 05:29 AM	#25
alton Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Zuehl, Texas Posts: 4,460	Buy a Kilo-Watt meter and plugin all your internal pumps. If you end up with them drawing 150 watts, then you have a 150w heater running 24/7.