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09/11/2013, 03:36 PM | #1 |
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What is this on the glass
No clue what this is any ideas
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09/11/2013, 04:17 PM | #2 |
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Hair Algae.
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09/11/2013, 08:03 PM | #3 |
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09/11/2013, 08:11 PM | #4 |
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I would try checking your params make sure nothing is too high. Do you have a clean up crew? I wouldn't put the algae fix in. It's always better to eliminate the source of the problem rather than use something to cover it up!
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09/11/2013, 08:32 PM | #5 |
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My params
nitrate 20 Nitrite 0 alkalinity 13 pH 8.4 Ammonia 0 Calcium 440 Have about 12 large turbo like Snails about 10 to 12 hermits 4 pepermint shrimp about 8 sand sifter snails 1 Black snail forgot its name looks like no shell Sand star |
09/11/2013, 08:52 PM | #6 |
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It comes and goes nothing to worry about yet.
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09/11/2013, 09:29 PM | #7 |
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Is that a big enough cleaning crew for a 65 Gallon ore do I need more?
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09/11/2013, 09:32 PM | #8 |
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Get some of these snails they run circles around Turbos.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/p...564&pcatid=564 Urchins eat tons of algae to. |
09/11/2013, 10:00 PM | #9 |
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Hair algae is one of the most common problems in aquaria. For the most part, you have to learn to live with them and not expect to eradicate them. This takes water quality (via controlled feeding, water changes and using RO/DI water), lighting control and consumers of it. Once you find that equilibrium for your tank, stick to it. Until then, keep tightening each of those components.
Good luck with things. |
09/12/2013, 02:56 AM | #10 |
Randy_BRS
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+1 for oscarinw post
A lot of your tank inhabitants feed off of algae growths, it's natural. When it grows excessively and begins to get out of control, that is when your worry meter should rise. Of course, prevention is key to lowering your risk of algae blooms. Clean water (RO/DI), an ample and non-excessive lighting schedule, light but ample feedings, and a good CUC are great places to start controlling. Remember to start small and work your way up. (I.e.- lower your lighting schedule, feed less, and WATCH YOUR TANK.) Keep an eye on the way your fish look (skinny or well fed), and keep an eye on the growth of corals (polyp extension..etc), gradually increase lights/feeding month to month as needed until you find a good balance. One where your fish are happy, your corals are happy, your water params stay in check....etc. When I had my 65gal tall tank, I had (1) Sand Sifter Star (2) Emerald Crabs (7-10) Cerith snails.....for 3" Sand bed (2-3) Astrea Turbo snails (2) MED Narite Snails (3-4) Nassarius Snails They all seemed happy and kept my glass and rocks VERY clean. Although it's hard to get a count now, they all live happily in my 125gal now. (But I add 1-2 new ones when I see empty shells...hardly often though) Good Luck!!
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09/12/2013, 07:35 AM | #11 |
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Thank guys for the help Yeah I know my new light caused the spike and the green algae to finally rear it ulgy head since I am at 5 weeks now on the tank still in the new Cycle. So right now I have a Frogspawn Coral, Hammer Coral, Star Polyp and a Finger Leather Coral. I have my light cycle on 8 hours HID 10k, 12 hours on the 4 T5HO 420/460, and 4 hours on the moonlight LED after all other lights are off ( I am night owl and Like to see what goes bump at night in my tank).
So I know I just need to control the tank lower my Nitrates with my water change this weekend and maybe lower my feeding on the 3 damsels. I probably feed them to much and not sure if I need to add extra feeding for the cleaning crew? So I have been given them a little extra has it seems when its feeding time my peppermints come out to feed on the fish food or Mysis shrimp, shrimp eating shrimp is so not right. |
09/12/2013, 07:49 AM | #12 |
Randy_BRS
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You really don't need to spend extra time... not to mention ADD extra nutrients... by feeding your CUC. They are self sufficient, just by doing their job...Cleaning!
It's normal for your shrimp to eat during your normal feedings. (It is a bit cannibalistic, LOL) but don't exert too much energy into feeding them on purpose. They are great scavangers and will pick all day. I feed my live stock in rotations. Monday- Frozen shrimp for fish...SMALL amount for 1-2 mins. Tuesday- No food... Anemone gets one large krill shrimp Wednesday-Seaweed Veggie Clip and/or SMALL amount of frozen shrimp. Thurs-No food Friday-Target feed corals with Reef-chili or Macrovore Saturday-Frozen shrimp for fish Sunday-No food It's really hard to finally stop feeding too much. For me, I thought I was starving my fish but they all look/act healthy and are growing like weeds! I stopped using flake food a long time ago, because it is so easy to over do it. If I'm out of town, I will have my tank sitter put just a TINY pinch of flake ... just to keep feeding simple for them.
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09/12/2013, 08:13 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
Okay that can be done yeah the flake food I never know what is a good amount do I throw a couple big flakes in (there freaking large like a quarter big, was recommended by my LFS as the best flake food and no it was not the most expensive) or do I take a pinch crush them than throw them in at the moment my tank has only 3 damsels the Cleaning crew and the 4 corals. Also the little white dots on the bottom of the sand moving (and there moving against the currents so I know there something) around what is that? |
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09/12/2013, 08:32 AM | #14 |
Randy_BRS
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I used to do the same thing.. until I got tired of fighting with algae outbreaks. I had everything else down to the minimum, light schedule, RO/DI water. Finally I just decided to be the big bad mean tank keeper and put my fish on a diet. Within weeks, and some water changes I was algae outbreak free.
For me, starting minimum and working up seemed to be the best method of control. Maybe put them on a diet of every other day. Crush and crumble your "giant" flakes and dip them completely in the water before you release them. Just remember, WHATEVER is not eaten right away by your fish will breakdown and turn into Nitrates and Phosphates. Essentially, you are feeding algae everytime you over feed. If you don't want algae, don't feed it. Feed slowly and keep track of all the bigger pieces. If your fish stop eating or after 2 minutes have gone by (whatever comes first)...then take your net and clean out any extra food that is still floating around. You may want to bring down your lighting schedule also. If you see algae growing right now, don't wait to make changes when it's too late and taken over your tank. I ran my 420/460 for 8.5hrs (0900-1730hrs), my 10,000K T5s for 6hrs (1100-1700) and my LED moonlights as long as I'm up at night usually until midnight (1700-0001). I suggest starting with low light periods then gradually increasing depending on your coral growth vs. algae growth. |
09/12/2013, 08:39 AM | #15 | |
Randy_BRS
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Quote:
It takes a steady hand to suck off the top layer of detritus that builds up on the sand bed. When you do water changes, focus on sucking up the "dust" that accumulates on top of the sand. Put your thumb over the end of the siphon hose to start and stop the flow, incase you fill the siphon up with sand.
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09/12/2013, 08:45 AM | #16 |
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Most fish can survive without feeding for a couple days with the exception of anthias which require multiple feedings per day. I feed my FW fish once a day - sometimes I might go 3 days without feeding.
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09/12/2013, 03:09 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
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09/13/2013, 08:47 PM | #18 |
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So what is this on my snail?
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