First Time Plumbing

nyknicks4412 · 10/10/2013, 09:13 AM

I am plumbing a tank for the firs time and just have a few questions...the tank is a 20 gallon long with a glass holes overflow and return kit.

I will be using regular schedule 40 pvc pipe and fittings. The overflow is 1" and the return is 1/2".

The design is extremely simple the overflow feeds down from the overflow into a filter sock and the return is straight out of a mag 3 and into the return kit.

I have attached a picture to show the basic design. Both sides are the same. Just 2 90* elbows.

My question is: do I need anything else besides elbows for this? I have purchased four unions, two for the overflow and two for the return and am unsure where they should go into this? I was thinking of possibly placing unions directly before the pipes going to the tank and directly before they enter the sump to make break down and maintenance easy. Would this work?

Do I need anything else? My pump doesn't need to be throttled so I didn't purchase any valves but I can if they are needed

Fizz71 · 10/10/2013, 02:57 PM

I would add a union atleast on the returns. You'll need to remove the pumps to clean them once in a while so add it at the pump's exist. I prefer a union over screwing a fitting off and on the pump all the time--I seal threaded pumps with Teflon tape. You may also wind up with some flexible tubing there too if you wind up with vibration noises.

For the drain you can just not glue the last 90 that's above the sump, that way you can remove it if you need to remove the whole sump for some reason. Since it's not under pressure it doesn't need to be glued as long as its above the water already in case it does leak.

I also have unions right at the tank too for breakdowns like you said, but that's because I have a 20+ foot run from sump to tank. You can live without them...it doesn't cost too much to replace bulkheads if you do break it down.

One question..have you considered how you're going to silence your overflow? Durso, Bean-Animal, etc...Certain types require ball valves.

Mtwreef · 10/10/2013, 03:41 PM

Looks good just dry fit before glue

nyknicks4412 · 10/11/2013, 07:47 AM

Ok I guess I will add two unions...one following the outlet from the bulkheads and one following the 90* into the sump!

Thanks for the help guys

firebirdude · 10/11/2013, 07:54 AM

My advice would be to use black flexible tubing whenever you can. Hard PVC out of and into bulkheads, flexible the rest of the way.

Imagine twisting/turning/moving the hard PVC even a little bit during maintenance. That puts a ton of stress right on your bulkhead fitting. Asking for a cracked tank.

Fizz71 · 10/11/2013, 07:55 AM

Returns = From pump to tank.
Drains = Tank to sump.

I recommended a union on the return, not the drain. I just want to make sure we're on the same page here since you said "outlet from bulkheads"...that's the drain..which is good to have for breakdowns, but no regular maintenance.

You can do what you want.

..I just want to make sure you didn't confuse what I said. That Mag 3 will need to be remove and cleaned ATLEAST every year.

Fizz71 · 10/11/2013, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firebirdude

My advice would be to use black flexible tubing whenever you can. Hard PVC out of and into bulkheads, flexible the rest of the way.

Imagine twisting/turning/moving the hard PVC even a little bit during maintenance. That puts a ton of stress right on your bulkhead fitting. Asking for a cracked tank.

+1 on that..it's what I use, but some people call it cheating (I know...I don't get it either).

nyknicks4412 · 10/11/2013, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firebirdude

My advice would be to use black flexible tubing whenever you can. Hard PVC out of and into bulkheads, flexible the rest of the way.

Imagine twisting/turning/moving the hard PVC even a little bit during maintenance. That puts a ton of stress right on your bulkhead fitting. Asking for a cracked tank.

I can definitely see where this would be an issue but I have seen so many tanks on here using regular PVC piping. Only reason I choose it was because all of the stuff I needed was in one place and it was cheap! I assume I won't be touching the piping too much and when I do I will make sure to release the unions first to prevent any chance of accidentally bumping a piece of pipe and cracking the glass.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fizz71

Returns = From pump to tank.
Drains = Tank to sump.

I recommended a union on the return, not the drain. I just want to make sure we're on the same page here since you said "outlet from bulkheads"...that's the drain..which is good to have for breakdowns, but no regular maintenance.

You can do what you want.

..I just want to make sure you didn't confuse what I said. That Mag 3 will need to be remove and cleaned ATLEAST every year.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fizz71

+1 on that..it's what I use, but some people call it cheating (I know...I don't get it either).

And haha sorry for the confusion!

On the drain line I will put 1 union close to the bulkhead and one union before the filter sock. This will allow me to remove pieces as needed if I ever need to breakdown the tank or change something.

On the return line I will put 1 union close the bulkhead and one union just after the Mag 3. I will be able to easily remove the Mag 3 for cleaning and removal of the entire plumbing if need be.

Is this how people normally setup their plumbing or am I all kinds of crazy? haha

Fizz71 · 10/11/2013, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nyknicks4412

Is this how people normally setup their plumbing or am I all kinds of crazy? haha

I have to be honest...I've never had a "normal" setup. I owned an out of the box wet/dry I used once (about 15 years ago) for about a month before I tossed it, but every thing else since then was "odd":
HOT Custom High Flow Filter unit.
ABOVE tank sump/fuge.
and two different systems that housed the sump on multiple floors.

So I had/have "crazy" everywhere.

If I were to setup a simple under the tank design I would probably go herbie or bean animal with true union ball valves on the back and another true union ball valve on the return with flex PVC. The flex PVC is so nice for reducing friction from harsh turns plus it makes it easy to move things around in a pinch.

firebirdude · 10/11/2013, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fizz71

If I were to setup a simple under the tank design I would probably go herbie or bean animal with true union ball valves on the back and another true union ball valve on the return with flex PVC. The flex PVC is so nice for reducing friction from harsh turns plus it makes it easy to move things around in a pinch.

BeanAnimal setup is beastly, but probably a big much for a 20 gallon. lol Even a Herbie design with 1/2" PVC is likely PLENTY. Also, using gate valves on these designs is a must. You can use a ball valve on the return to save some money if you'd like.

10/10/2013, 02:57 PM	#2
Fizz71 FragSwapper Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West Lawn, PA Posts: 5,800	I would add a union atleast on the returns. You'll need to remove the pumps to clean them once in a while so add it at the pump's exist. I prefer a union over screwing a fitting off and on the pump all the time--I seal threaded pumps with Teflon tape. You may also wind up with some flexible tubing there too if you wind up with vibration noises. For the drain you can just not glue the last 90 that's above the sump, that way you can remove it if you need to remove the whole sump for some reason. Since it's not under pressure it doesn't need to be glued as long as its above the water already in case it does leak. I also have unions right at the tank too for breakdowns like you said, but that's because I have a 20+ foot run from sump to tank. You can live without them...it doesn't cost too much to replace bulkheads if you do break it down. One question..have you considered how you're going to silence your overflow? Durso, Bean-Animal, etc...Certain types require ball valves. __________________ --Fizz Current Tank Info: Current system is 8x2x2 240g peninsula setup with a single "chamber" 100g sump in the basement with an RDSB. All corals are 100% home grown from frags of fellow reefers (low natural reef impact).

10/11/2013, 07:55 AM	#6
Fizz71 FragSwapper Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West Lawn, PA Posts: 5,800	Returns = From pump to tank. Drains = Tank to sump. I recommended a union on the return, not the drain. I just want to make sure we're on the same page here since you said "outlet from bulkheads"...that's the drain..which is good to have for breakdowns, but no regular maintenance. You can do what you want. ..I just want to make sure you didn't confuse what I said. That Mag 3 will need to be remove and cleaned ATLEAST every year. __________________ --Fizz Current Tank Info: Current system is 8x2x2 240g peninsula setup with a single "chamber" 100g sump in the basement with an RDSB. All corals are 100% home grown from frags of fellow reefers (low natural reef impact).

10/10/2013, 03:41 PM	#3
Mtwreef Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: East Tn Posts: 65	Looks good just dry fit before glue

10/11/2013, 07:47 AM	#4
nyknicks4412 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 199	Ok I guess I will add two unions...one following the outlet from the bulkheads and one following the 90* into the sump! Thanks for the help guys

10/11/2013, 07:54 AM	#5
firebirdude User and Abuser Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 1,836	My advice would be to use black flexible tubing whenever you can. Hard PVC out of and into bulkheads, flexible the rest of the way. Imagine twisting/turning/moving the hard PVC even a little bit during maintenance. That puts a ton of stress right on your bulkhead fitting. Asking for a cracked tank.