UV Sterilizer

[Mikey319]

Hello, my name is Mikey and I am new here. I just have a quick question that I hope someone could answer for me.

I was wondering how many watts of a UV bulb I would need for approximately a 600 gallon system with sump. It is for my LFS I work at. I want to change the systems up (freshwater) to get lower nitrates. As no matter what we do, we can't get the nitrates lower in the one system. So I want to have one big sump and have the pumps connected still and both systems drained into the one sump. So we don't get cross contamination/prevention I wanted to think about a UV bulb that will kill ick and bacteria as fish sometimes come in with it, unfortunately.

I am estimating the system in total would be 600 gallons freshwater. So how many watts will the UV bulb need to be and the GPH for it?



Now for my 55 gallon goldfish tank. My water won't stay clear and I keep my water in perfect condition with weekly 90% WC and I add a SUNSUN 525GPH UV 9-watt canister filter to it. It's much clearer, but it can be clearer and I don't think the bulb that came with it is of good quality. Is there a better 9-watt bulb with a G23 base that would be more beneficial? this one just seems so weak. I was thinking about the 9-watt Tetra pond one as it says up to 1,800 gallon ponds. Any advice/recommendations would be awesome!


Thanks,
Mikey

[Timber77]

try ozone

[Mikey319]

I have never heard of ozone? I looked it up real quick and from what I read, it said go for UV if you want sterilization over clarity. Our systems are very clear and need the UV to mainly just kill ick. I just need to know what size watt to put on the 600 gallon system and how big of a pump I would need for it to work correctly.

[Mikey319]

I was looking at the tetra pond UV sterilizer bulb. The 9-watt with the G23 base is the same dimensions as the one I have now in my filter. I want to try that bulb since it's meant for a pond up to 1,800 gallons supposedly. I guess the bulb can handle the fast moving water from the filter .

Later on after that, I want to rig a 36 watt UV sterilizer up to the outtake on my canister.

[Aqualund]

Basically the ozone will kill single cell organisms that cannot protect themselves from the UV light. It destroys their capability to reproduce by damaging their replicating genes. The clearer water comes from having less thriving organisms.

Fundamentally, you will have less ich and less disease issues with your fish if you give them an environment in which they are happy and healthy. This means no nitrates. If you reduce the nitrates, their immune system will rise naturally and they will inherently defend themselves from any organism, as long as they are fed well.

However, if you are still intent on a UV, what you have read about the rating and wattage is generally correct. according to the website, the 9 watt with 900gph is rated for 1800 gallons. Which in all honesty is just fine.

The faster you run the water through, the less effective it is at killing. The slower you move it through, the more effective it is at killing, but less water is contacted over time. It's a balance. When I do my systems, I always go bigger...and if it ends up being too good, just put it on a timer for 12 hours a day.

[Mikey319]

Originally Posted by Aqualund

Basically the ozone will kill single cell organisms that cannot protect themselves from the UV light. It destroys their capability to reproduce by damaging their replicating genes. The clearer water comes from having less thriving organisms.

Fundamentally, you will have less ich and less disease issues with your fish if you give them an environment in which they are happy and healthy. This means no nitrates. If you reduce the nitrates, their immune system will rise naturally and they will inherently defend themselves from any organism, as long as they are fed well.

However, if you are still intent on a UV, what you have read about the rating and wattage is generally correct. according to the website, the 9 watt with 900gph is rated for 1800 gallons. Which in all honesty is just fine.

The faster you run the water through, the less effective it is at killing. The slower you move it through, the more effective it is at killing, but less water is contacted over time. It's a balance. When I do my systems, I always go bigger...and if it ends up being too good, just put it on a timer for 12 hours a day.

LFS WATER:
Okay, now how should I go about the ozone? I was reading if you breathe in too much, it's bad for you. Which this would be running 24/7 on my LFS.

Only the one system is having trouble (goldfish system) which is abut 200-250 gallons in total. Weekly water changes are done on both systems. The tropical is I think 300-350. And that system is never above 20ppm. The goldfish is in the red no matter what we do. It's bare bottom too. With connecting both systems to one sump and have about 600 gallons I think that would help with nitrates. The uv/ozone would be to prevent diseases from spreading/starting. I wouldn't know where to start on what watt UV sterilizer or what even to do with an ozone generator.

MY WATER:
The 9-watt sterilizer, I don't have much control of flow. I would like it slower, but it's built into the canister. . Should the quartz sleeve become foggy? It is. I was thinking of re-sealing it with silicon in case there is some type of leak in it. If it's foggy, would that reduce the effectiveness of the UV bulb?

[sneeyatch]

If you can, remove the sleeve (carefully, they're fragile) and clean it so it's clear. A foggy sleeve will reduce it's effectiveness. Sometimes, there is a wiper that comes with the UV's that you can slide back and forth without needing to remove the sleeve but I doubt that's the case if it's built in to a canister.

[wolfblue]

I don't see how 9 watts will be very good for 600 gallons. Sounds like "buy my miracle turbo mega uv for only....and the lamp lasts ten years". You will need the real thing at a LFS.

http://www.emperoraquatics-aquarium....ich_and_uv.php



--John

[wolfblue]

Oh, and replace that sleeve if it wont get clean and clear. And it won't.

--John

[Mikey319]

Originally Posted by sneeyatch

If you can, remove the sleeve (carefully, they're fragile) and clean it so it's clear. A foggy sleeve will reduce it's effectiveness. Sometimes, there is a wiper that comes with the UV's that you can slide back and forth without needing to remove the sleeve but I doubt that's the case if it's built in to a canister.

I can do that. I did and it became foggy again. Just in case i forgot to mention, the fogginess is on the INSIDE of the quartz sleeve. I think water is getting in as it doesn't look properly sealed. I'm going to re-silicone it today probably. I'm also going to purchase the 9 watt tetra pond bulb because it says it works better I guess. It's worth a try.

[Mikey319]

Originally Posted by wolfblue

I don't see how 9 watts will be very good for 600 gallons. Sounds like "buy my miracle turbo mega uv for only....and the lamp lasts ten years". You will need the real thing at a LFS.

http://www.emperoraquatics-aquarium....ich_and_uv.php



--John

The 600 gallons is for my LFS.. Not MY 9 watt. And it isn't salt, it's fresh. I just need to know what wattage to put on the 600 gallon to kill ick.

[ken6217]

Am I not reading correctly that you were thinking that UV is going to lower nitrates?

Ken

[Aqualund]

Originally Posted by Mikey319

LFS WATER:
Okay, now how should I go about the ozone? I was reading if you breathe in too much, it's bad for you. Which this would be running 24/7 on my LFS.

Only the one system is having trouble (goldfish system) which is abut 200-250 gallons in total. Weekly water changes are done on both systems. The tropical is I think 300-350. And that system is never above 20ppm. The goldfish is in the red no matter what we do. It's bare bottom too. With connecting both systems to one sump and have about 600 gallons I think that would help with nitrates. The uv/ozone would be to prevent diseases from spreading/starting. I wouldn't know where to start on what watt UV sterilizer or what even to do with an ozone generator.

MY WATER:
The 9-watt sterilizer, I don't have much control of flow. I would like it slower, but it's built into the canister. . Should the quartz sleeve become foggy? It is. I was thinking of re-sealing it with silicon in case there is some type of leak in it. If it's foggy, would that reduce the effectiveness of the UV bulb?

1. You can put a valve on the flow
2. UV is more effective is freshwater than saltwater. Thats why they have lower wattage ratings.
3. You have bare bottom tanks with a lot of fish and a lot of fish poop. Water changes wont do it. You need more robust filtration, like a planted tank to soak up and use the nitrates...and filter the water.
4. The UV wont matter for killing organisms if your fish are stressed from poor water quality.
5. Goldfish are always very dirty unless they have a really good filter going on. simply adding them to the other 250 is only going to make the 250 dirty too. You really need to look at a planted sump.
6. At your level I would stay away from the ozone...the solution for this can happen much much easier.

[Mikey319]

Originally Posted by Aqualund

1. You can put a valve on the flow Okay, I can do that
2. UV is more effective is freshwater than saltwater. Thats why they have lower wattage ratings. Yes, but What wattage will kill ick in 600 gallons.
3. You have bare bottom tanks with a lot of fish and a lot of fish poop. Water changes wont do it. You need more robust filtration, like a planted tank to soak up and use the nitrates...and filter the water. We have 5 out of 8 tanks empty. (Still have water flowing through)
4. The UV wont matter for killing organisms if your fish are stressed from poor water quality. they come in in poor water unfortunately and all of the distributors are like that. The sterilizer will help keep parasites and bacteria down to a minimum hopefully.
5. Goldfish are always very dirty unless they have a really good filter going on. simply adding them to the other 250 is only going to make the 250 dirty too. You really need to look at a planted sump. I know goldfish are dirty. I have them. And THEY are in a 250 the other system is 350. The only ones we would move would be the fancy goldfish. The feeders don't stay long enough.
6. At your level I would stay away from the ozone...the solution for this can happen much much easier.What would you propose I suggest other then the plant sump? I can only think of turning it into one huge sump which will in turn give us more water. And THAT is where the UV sterilizer would come into play.

[Aqualund]

* it's not as easy as: "get a 9watt UV sterilizer and you wont have ich." With that being said, follow the manufacturer rating. 9 Watts for 1800 gallons fresh according to the website seems about right. For the price, I would just use the 9 Watt and be done with it.

* Poor water, you're not dumping the poor water into your system are you? You should be acclimating externally, transferring the fish and then dumping the incoming water down the drain.

We have 5 out of 8 tanks empty. (Still have water flowing through)

what are you trying to say by this? Im assuming you're saying something about how much water there is...that doesnt matter, you need a place for the bacteria to colonize...so deep sand, porous rocks, planted refugium/sump, etc.

Overall I think I'm talking past you. You seem very focused on using the UV sterilizer as your complete solution to the cloudy water and parasites/ich. This is not going to solve your problem. You need to approach this from many directions to solve the problem overall. soo....

1. install the 9watt UV
2. Create a planted sump with sand, porous rock, lots of live plants, and strong lighting.
3. Install a carbon reactor to help clarify the water and remove dissolved organics.
4. Improve the flow to all tanks to ensure at least a 10 times the volume per hour, per tank.
5. do 20% water changes every 3 or 4 days until your nitrates are near zero.
6. Make sure there is no stray current in the water. This is the number one cause of ich in aquariums.

you do all of this and the fish will defend themselves from ich...and the only thing the UV will be doing is clarifying the water at that point.

[Mikey319]

Originally Posted by Aqualund

* it's not as easy as: "get a 9watt UV sterilizer and you wont have ich." With that being said, follow the manufacturer rating. 9 Watts for 1800 gallons fresh according to the website seems about right. For the price, I would just use the 9 Watt and be done with it.

* Poor water, you're not dumping the poor water into your system are you? You should be acclimating externally, transferring the fish and then dumping the incoming water down the drain.



what are you trying to say by this? Im assuming you're saying something about how much water there is...that doesnt matter, you need a place for the bacteria to colonize...so deep sand, porous rocks, planted refugium/sump, etc.

Overall I think I'm talking past you. You seem very focused on using the UV sterilizer as your complete solution to the cloudy water and parasites/ich. This is not going to solve your problem. You need to approach this from many directions to solve the problem overall. soo....

1. install the 9watt UV
2. Create a planted sump with sand, porous rock, lots of live plants, and strong lighting.
3. Install a carbon reactor to help clarify the water and remove dissolved organics.
4. Improve the flow to all tanks to ensure at least a 10 times the volume per hour, per tank.
5. do 20% water changes every 3 or 4 days until your nitrates are near zero.
6. Make sure there is no stray current in the water. This is the number one cause of ich in aquariums.

you do all of this and the fish will defend themselves from ich...and the only thing the UV will be doing is clarifying the water at that point.

No, you aren't following me. the 9 watt bulb is for the filter that I HAVE. At HOME. I only need the bulb to work to clarify MY water at HOME.


The nitrates are at the pet store in ONE of the systems. The goldfish one. There are 8 20 gallon display tanks of which 5 are fishless at the moment but are still running. I want to combine BOTH of the systems to one sump for more water volume. The pumps and GPH per hour are fine. I just want to know what size watt will kill ick with 600 gallons of water in total. That is all I need to know. I am taking care of the nitrate problem. No, waste water goes down the drain. NOT into the systems.

[wolfblue]

Originally Posted by Mikey319

No, you aren't following me.

Thats the same thing I just thought...

Originally Posted by Mikey319

I just want to know what size watt will kill ick with 600 gallons of water in total.

9 watts is good for 30-40 gallons at 30-40 GPH if you want to kill Ichthyophthirius effectively. Husbandry and lower numbers of animals works too.

For 600 gallons you will want 80 watts HO at 450 GPH and you will still be good at 9000 hours when you are supposed to change the lamp. At the LFS that is. At home you can go smaller because you won't need to beat back protozoa that fast, husbandry and less animals again.

And... in a sense UV is not as good for salt. But actually its just as good. It just takes 3 times the energy to kill Cryptocaryon as Ichthyophthirius.

And like he said, stay away from ozone. Water is already clear and you need bizarre dwell times and O3 past .1 ppm to kill those bugs. UV is cheaper and safer for ich.

--John

[Mikey319]

Originally Posted by wolfblue

Thats the same thing I just thought...



9 watts is good for 30-40 gallons at 30-40 GPH if you want to kill Ichthyophthirius effectively. Husbandry and lower numbers of animals works too.

For 600 gallons you will want 80 watts HO at 450 GPH and you will still be good at 9000 hours when you are supposed to change the lamp. At the LFS that is. At home you can go smaller because you won't need to beat back protozoa that fast, husbandry and less animals again.

And... in a sense UV is not as good for salt. But actually its just as good. It just takes 3 times the energy to kill Cryptocaryon as Ichthyophthirius.

And like he said, stay away from ozone. Water is already clear and you need bizarre dwell times and O3 past .1 ppm to kill those bugs. UV is cheaper and safer for ich.

--John

Thanks so much for the info! I can't make mine at 30-40 GPH unfortunately because that would make the filter useless at its size. For now, I ordered the UVC/UVC1 I believe 9-watt tetra pond bulb rated for ponds up to 1800 so it should get my water clear (all I need) as I don't have ick.

I'll research some UV sterilizer a at 80 watts I'll try and get a tiotalmprice estimate and see what she says (my boss) about combining both of the systems to one . It will definitely reduce nitrates which is mainly why I want to do this. The UV will be so it doesn't sowed from tank to tank if it's hooked into the sump. I'm very excited to see what she has to say about this! Wish me luck

[Mikey319]

What about having (2) 36 watt tetra pond in sterilizers at 225gph each? Water would go in one and clean water would go into the other one directly via tubing and then even cleaner water come out of that one and back into the sump. Would that be as effective as an 80 watt one? The 600 gallons is just an estimate as to how much water we will have in the system when completed.

[Mikey319]

The boss didn't go for making one big sump


On the bright side, when I rinsed my quartz sleeve out and dried it and changed the bulb, it's only a tiny bit foggy. It's a big improvement to the fogginess that it DID have. I still want to reseal it because it doesn't look like it was sealed to well.