ICH. I have it and don't want it. HELP

Cozwey · 02/02/2014, 08:42 PM

Ok so I am tearing down the rock and getting the fish out. I have a couple questions.
I am going to have to go fallow for 10 weeks I know that.

Do I leave my BT Nem and inverts in the DT?

Do I just leave the rock and sand in the DT?

Grrrr.

Cymonous · 02/02/2014, 08:45 PM

Yes and yes

danderso · 02/02/2014, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cymonous

yes and yes

+1

Cozwey · 02/02/2014, 09:18 PM

Ok thank you. I m going to drain the tank and remove the fish. Not many but I know my yellow tang won't appreciate the 20 gallon he is going into. I will pick up another 20 tomorrow.
I will run 1.009 salinity in the QT.
Going to be making lots of water.

10 weeks should be enough time to get the ICH out.

Cozwey · 02/02/2014, 09:25 PM

Once I get the fish out do I do regular water changes in my DT? It will only have a small bio load so what is the protocol for that?

bnumair · 02/02/2014, 10:46 PM

did you not QT the tang? i thought i saw you on my QT forums but i could be wrong.. so what happened?

You will have to get all fish out from the DT and treat with hypo. no matter if they show signs or not. everything stays in DT except fish.
Also you will need to leave DT fishless for 9 weeks minimum longer the better.
inverts can stay in the DT and you can feed a little bit every 2-3 days which will keep the inverts alive and DT cycled.
If you need help with Hypo i have a guide on it click on blue number under my avatar and it will take you to my blog.
Good luck.

dkeller_nc · 02/02/2014, 11:44 PM

Water changes will still be necessary in your DT, it's not just for the fish. If you're going to go with hypo I strongly recommend getting an extra ATO. You can do it without it by marking the tank level and religiously adding top-off water, but it's a real PITA.

Unfortunately you just missed the Petco dollar-a-gallon sale; a 29 gallon might suit your tang a bit better. One other tip - take a couple of pounds of live rock out of your DT and put it in your QT tanks. The bacteria on the rocks will stand the hyposalinity treatment, and you won't have to worry about ammonia spikes. And so long as you just treat with hypo, the rocks can go back into your DT when you're done.

thompson2224 · 02/03/2014, 08:04 AM

Honestly I hate everything about QT

FTDelta · 02/03/2014, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thompson2224

Honestly I hate everything about QT

At least it gives you a peace of mind in case you do have an issue with new fish and be able to treat it.

Sk8r · 02/03/2014, 12:30 PM

No need to drain the tank and start over. In 8-12 weeks the ich parasites in the tank will have starved to death and the tank will be safe.

Cozwey · 02/03/2014, 01:57 PM

Up-DATE

Hey Mike, Yes we were using a qt program but I let it slip on the last batch due to other life factors and it has cost me big. Life goes on despite our fish and in this case I messed up. So I have lost several fish and we are now on our way to helping save those that are left.

Thank you all for your help.

Here is were we are at. I tore do the 120 last night. All the fish are out. Left in the 120 are our coral banded shrimp, snails, crabs and the BTA.

Currently have the following fish in the 20 gallon QT;

Yellow tang (has ICH spots and is pale yellow)
Black true perc (has ICH spots and fin rot signs)
Coral beauty (showing no signs)
Rabbit fish (showing no signs but very unhappy in the 20 gallon)
Kupang Damsel (no signs)
Diamond goby (no signs)
Lyretail Anthias (Has ICH spots and fin rot)

DEAD
Grey Poma
Mandarin Dragonette
Bi color Angel
Flame Angel
Fairy Wrasse
Kole Tang

I took the pm off work and stopped by PetSmart. We do not have Petco in Canada.
Purchased a Fluval 55gallon 48"long. Comes with C4 hang on back filter system, LED signs, hood and heater.

Now I plan to clean the new tank and fill. Thanks for all the info RC. Based on all I have read and a lot of it comes from Mike and Sk8r, I will go with Hypo salinity. I still have some questions and will get to them eventually. Last night while removing the fish I ended up with a little sand in the QT. I want to move the fish to the new tank and then clean the 20 to ensure nothing is left to be passed on.

I am prepared to do the WC's on the 55 gallon. I have ATO and RO/DI. I will mark the new tank which is getting set up on the kitchen sit up bar. It will actually look good there and be right by the sink.

The QT system comes with the Fluval C4 filter. Should I remove all the filter media and just do water changes? I currently have a sponge in the 20 Gallon and i am concerned that ICH will stay in that as it is porous.

I will set salt param at 1.009 and temp at 82f. Sk8r I have read your sticky regarding returning back up to 1.026 and will take my time when I do it in 8-12 weeks. Speaking of this Sk8r I am leaning towards 10-12 weeks as I do not want to go thru this again.

How much should I run my lights on the new tank? I have had them off in the 20 as I am sure they are all stressed right now.

I appreciate all the help.

I have learned a valuable lesson here.
Never cut corners!!!!
Over the next few weeks I will be organizing my equipment and cleaning. I need to keep materials completely separate between my tanks. I have been sharing hoses and pumps to do WC's. I was transferring a reactor between tanks as well. It isn't worth it.

I am now a complete believer.

Yes, you all told me so.

Ron.

Cozwey · 02/03/2014, 02:16 PM

Another question? I have bio pellets sitting in my sump and they have been there a long tim. Can I use those in the QT HOB filter? They are porous and I am not sure?

bnumair · 02/03/2014, 03:14 PM

Ron
Thank you for ur confidence and kind remarks. i am sorry your going through the loss and headache and i hate to say this but i have to as you can see someone above you passed a comment : "I hate everything about QT"... Hate or being rushed (in your case) is the reason why we have these problems...
Anyways now that you have taken the right steps hyposalinity is a good treatment and it should rid ich for you if done properly.
Here is a guide link i wrote with step by step info you need..
let e know if i can help you any more.
Good luck and safe reefing.
Mike
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2300497

Note: biopellets will not help seed beneficial bacteria which will in-turn help in keeping tank cycled but infact help in reducing nitrates and phos. Bio pellets are almost identical to carbon dosing.

Cozwey · 02/03/2014, 03:48 PM

Thanks Mike.

We are now filling the new tank with RO/DI water. Kelly and I are having a debate here.
If we fill the tank and get the salinity to say 1.018 (down from the current QT which is at 1.022 since last night) is that too fast?

Also, a question regarding the emergency QT. If we now have it full and move the fish over are we simply doing WC's to control Ammo, Nitrite and Nitrate? There will be no rock or sand.
Should we be using water from the DT to have some benefits of the bacteria?

Further Kelly would like to know are we somehow supposed to establish a eco system in the QT in order to have the fish survive.

She recalls ages ago before LR using sacrificial fish to start the nitrification process.

I am inclined to believe that simply doing WC's and controlling salinity is enough. It seams simple but maybe I am wrong.

bnumair · 02/03/2014, 04:13 PM

Hi Ron
drop in salinity from dt to qt is about 0.04 and that not a large change. Fish can handle lower salinity just fine its increase that need more time to adjust and should be done slowly.
Yes with no beneficial bacteria established you will need to rely on water changes or chemicals to rid ammonia. nitrites and nitrates are no threat to fish. in one experiment fish were subjected to very high level of nitrites (about 200+) with no ill effects.
I would not use DT water any more. it will continuously introduce free floating ich to QT. also DT water will not bring beneficial bacteria.
Yes you are right just water changes alone will take care of the cycle issues, i dont recommend rock/sand in qt they end up complicating things over time. If you want to seed the qt you can try using biospira or dr tims bacteria (no personal experience).
Hold salinity tight at 1.009 for as long as last visible ich is gone then add another 2-3 weeks to that for ich unseen in gills etc then start bring the salinity up. i would observe over 2 further weeks to make sure. so total of 10 weeks or more might be required then again u need DT fishless for 10+ weeks anyways.

bnumair · 02/03/2014, 04:14 PM

in case pH dips below 7.8 buff it.

Cozwey · 02/03/2014, 05:34 PM

Ok all fish are in the 55 QT. HOB is running nicely. Temp is climbing to 82F Started at 79.
Salinity is currently 1.014.

I'll snap a photo in a bit to show the result once I clean up.

So now we have 120 DT with 55 sump, 60 DT with 20 sump, 55 long QT, and a 20 QT.

With all the water moving in here I have the urge to pee all the time.

Cozwey · 02/03/2014, 07:18 PM

Ok here is the result of some work this afternoon.
The first is our new QT. The second is poor Darnell. He is really sick.
Third is Clem and her fins are not great.
The fourth is Earl and Randy playing in the torch.
Last is our beautiful Maxima.

If you want to see ICH have a look at pic 2

Cozwey · 02/03/2014, 07:22 PM

Oops. Here is our clam.

dkeller_nc · 02/04/2014, 08:20 AM

FYI, there is some legitimate disagreement over whether or not to use biological filtration in the form of live rock, live sand, seeded sponge filter or other means in a quarantine tank. In my case, I much prefer it because then one doesn't have to be concerned about ammonia build-up. However, the live rock/live sand causes issues if you're forced to use a copper treatment, and nothing other than bacteria on the LR will survive a hyposalinity treatment.

Nevertheless, I've managed to cure 3 fish on 3 separate occasions using hyposalinity, and the LR in the QT meant I only needed to be concerned with monitoring the specific gravity and feeding the fish. I would imagine the every 3rd day 20% or more water changes necessary to control ammonia in a 55 gallon QT would become really burdensome over a 4-6 week period.

Cozwey · 02/04/2014, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkeller_nc

FYI, there is some legitimate disagreement over whether or not to use biological filtration in the form of live rock, live sand, seeded sponge filter or other means in a quarantine tank. In my case, I much prefer it because then one doesn't have to be concerned about ammonia build-up. However, the live rock/live sand causes issues if you're forced to use a copper treatment, and nothing other than bacteria on the LR will survive a hyposalinity treatment.

Nevertheless, I've managed to cure 3 fish on 3 separate occasions using hyposalinity, and the LR in the QT meant I only needed to be concerned with monitoring the specific gravity and feeding the fish. I would imagine the every 3rd day 20% or more water changes necessary to control ammonia in a 55 gallon QT would become really burdensome over a 4-6 week period.

So to be clear you are advocating the use of sponge filters LR and sand in the QT as long as I am running hopysalinity?

dkeller_nc · 02/04/2014, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cozwey

So to be clear you are advocating the use of sponge filters LR and sand in the QT as long as I am running hopysalinity?

Well, probably not all three. In my opinion, a seeded sponge filter assuming it's big enough might be preferable because it's easily cleaned and/or sterilized. But I typically seed sponge filters for a good 2 weeks in a reef tank sump if I'm going to use it in a nursery, QT, etc...

Last QT hyposalinity treatment I did (a couple of months ago), I used about 7 pounds of live rock in a 20 gallon high. I carefully selected the rock to be "base" rock without a lot of attached inverts, sponges, etc... since these would die under the hypo treatment and potentially pollute the tank. I did monitor the ammonia concentrations every 2 days or so to ensure that nothing untoward happened on the way down to 1.009, but I never got a reading (Salifert test kit).

Cozwey · 02/04/2014, 12:22 PM

I had sponges in my sump however I have added a new (purchased yesterday) QT tank. As a result the sponges are not compatable with the new HOB. I could jam it in and use it. I Do have ceramic type bio pelletes in the sump in a bag. They have been there for many months. They will certainly have bacteria on them but also like has ICH as well. At this point I am running a emergency tank based on Mike's stickies. I could tank out a large peice of LR and add it. When I am down to Hypo salinity it will kill over the ICH but not the bacteria correct?
If this is the case once I run my 12 weeks, then can I return that rock to my DT/sump?

Cozwey · 02/04/2014, 12:26 PM

Sorry they are "ceramic rings"

dkeller_nc · 02/04/2014, 12:36 PM

Yeah, just about anything with a high surface area (i.e., porous) that has a bacterial population will work. I wouldn't worry about placing something that may have resting ich cysts into your QT tank at this point, because your fish have ich. These will leave the fish and form cysts, so you will have them in the QT anyway. But the hypo will kill the active infectious stage once they hatch from the cyst, so you're good.

02/02/2014, 08:42 PM	#1
Cozwey Go Canada!!!! Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Posts: 363 Blog Entries: 1	ICH. I have it and don't want it. HELP Ok so I am tearing down the rock and getting the fish out. I have a couple questions. I am going to have to go fallow for 10 weeks I know that. Do I leave my BT Nem and inverts in the DT? Do I just leave the rock and sand in the DT? Grrrr. __________________ QT, Go Slow, Read the Stickies People!!!! Current Tank Info: 120g FOWLR, 55 Perm QT, Full Apex, Kessil, Reef Octo, MP40's, MP10's, Plumbed ATO, BRS 2 part dosing.

02/02/2014, 08:45 PM	#2
Cymonous My Clown Attacks Me Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Akron, OH Posts: 2,105	Yes and yes __________________ 100 Gallon Long with 20L sump 10 Gallon Office Tank Current Tank Info: 2 False Percula Clowns, One Spot Foxface, Diamond Watchman Goby, Yellow Tail Damsel, Engineer Goby

02/02/2014, 09:18 PM	#4
Cozwey Go Canada!!!! Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Posts: 363 Blog Entries: 1	Ok thank you. I m going to drain the tank and remove the fish. Not many but I know my yellow tang won't appreciate the 20 gallon he is going into. I will pick up another 20 tomorrow. I will run 1.009 salinity in the QT. Going to be making lots of water. 10 weeks should be enough time to get the ICH out. __________________ QT, Go Slow, Read the Stickies People!!!! Current Tank Info: 120g FOWLR, 55 Perm QT, Full Apex, Kessil, Reef Octo, MP40's, MP10's, Plumbed ATO, BRS 2 part dosing.

02/02/2014, 09:25 PM	#5
Cozwey Go Canada!!!! Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Posts: 363 Blog Entries: 1	Once I get the fish out do I do regular water changes in my DT? It will only have a small bio load so what is the protocol for that? __________________ QT, Go Slow, Read the Stickies People!!!! Current Tank Info: 120g FOWLR, 55 Perm QT, Full Apex, Kessil, Reef Octo, MP40's, MP10's, Plumbed ATO, BRS 2 part dosing.

02/02/2014, 10:46 PM	#6
bnumair Dr. Reef at ur service Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tulsa, Ok, USA Posts: 7,751 Blog Entries: 15	did you not QT the tang? i thought i saw you on my QT forums but i could be wrong.. so what happened? You will have to get all fish out from the DT and treat with hypo. no matter if they show signs or not. everything stays in DT except fish. Also you will need to leave DT fishless for 9 weeks minimum longer the better. inverts can stay in the DT and you can feed a little bit every 2-3 days which will keep the inverts alive and DT cycled. If you need help with Hypo i have a guide on it click on blue number under my avatar and it will take you to my blog. Good luck. __________________ Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE Last edited by bnumair; 02/02/2014 at 10:53 PM.

02/02/2014, 11:44 PM	#7
dkeller_nc Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Central NC Posts: 5,062	Water changes will still be necessary in your DT, it's not just for the fish. If you're going to go with hypo I strongly recommend getting an extra ATO. You can do it without it by marking the tank level and religiously adding top-off water, but it's a real PITA. Unfortunately you just missed the Petco dollar-a-gallon sale; a 29 gallon might suit your tang a bit better. One other tip - take a couple of pounds of live rock out of your DT and put it in your QT tanks. The bacteria on the rocks will stand the hyposalinity treatment, and you won't have to worry about ammonia spikes. And so long as you just treat with hypo, the rocks can go back into your DT when you're done.

02/03/2014, 08:04 AM	#8
thompson2224 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Kissimmee, FL Posts: 604	Honestly I hate everything about QT

02/03/2014, 12:30 PM	#10
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	No need to drain the tank and start over. In 8-12 weeks the ich parasites in the tank will have starved to death and the tank will be safe. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

02/03/2014, 01:57 PM	#11
Cozwey Go Canada!!!! Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Posts: 363 Blog Entries: 1	Up-DATE Hey Mike, Yes we were using a qt program but I let it slip on the last batch due to other life factors and it has cost me big. Life goes on despite our fish and in this case I messed up. So I have lost several fish and we are now on our way to helping save those that are left. Thank you all for your help. Here is were we are at. I tore do the 120 last night. All the fish are out. Left in the 120 are our coral banded shrimp, snails, crabs and the BTA. Currently have the following fish in the 20 gallon QT; Yellow tang (has ICH spots and is pale yellow) Black true perc (has ICH spots and fin rot signs) Coral beauty (showing no signs) Rabbit fish (showing no signs but very unhappy in the 20 gallon) Kupang Damsel (no signs) Diamond goby (no signs) Lyretail Anthias (Has ICH spots and fin rot) DEAD Grey Poma Mandarin Dragonette Bi color Angel Flame Angel Fairy Wrasse Kole Tang I took the pm off work and stopped by PetSmart. We do not have Petco in Canada. Purchased a Fluval 55gallon 48"long. Comes with C4 hang on back filter system, LED signs, hood and heater. Now I plan to clean the new tank and fill. Thanks for all the info RC. Based on all I have read and a lot of it comes from Mike and Sk8r, I will go with Hypo salinity. I still have some questions and will get to them eventually. Last night while removing the fish I ended up with a little sand in the QT. I want to move the fish to the new tank and then clean the 20 to ensure nothing is left to be passed on. I am prepared to do the WC's on the 55 gallon. I have ATO and RO/DI. I will mark the new tank which is getting set up on the kitchen sit up bar. It will actually look good there and be right by the sink. The QT system comes with the Fluval C4 filter. Should I remove all the filter media and just do water changes? I currently have a sponge in the 20 Gallon and i am concerned that ICH will stay in that as it is porous. I will set salt param at 1.009 and temp at 82f. Sk8r I have read your sticky regarding returning back up to 1.026 and will take my time when I do it in 8-12 weeks. Speaking of this Sk8r I am leaning towards 10-12 weeks as I do not want to go thru this again. How much should I run my lights on the new tank? I have had them off in the 20 as I am sure they are all stressed right now. I appreciate all the help. I have learned a valuable lesson here. Never cut corners!!!! Over the next few weeks I will be organizing my equipment and cleaning. I need to keep materials completely separate between my tanks. I have been sharing hoses and pumps to do WC's. I was transferring a reactor between tanks as well. It isn't worth it. I am now a complete believer. Yes, you all told me so. Ron. __________________ QT, Go Slow, Read the Stickies People!!!! Current Tank Info: 120g FOWLR, 55 Perm QT, Full Apex, Kessil, Reef Octo, MP40's, MP10's, Plumbed ATO, BRS 2 part dosing.

02/03/2014, 02:16 PM	#12
Cozwey Go Canada!!!! Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Posts: 363 Blog Entries: 1	Another question? I have bio pellets sitting in my sump and they have been there a long tim. Can I use those in the QT HOB filter? They are porous and I am not sure? __________________ QT, Go Slow, Read the Stickies People!!!! Current Tank Info: 120g FOWLR, 55 Perm QT, Full Apex, Kessil, Reef Octo, MP40's, MP10's, Plumbed ATO, BRS 2 part dosing.

02/03/2014, 03:14 PM	#13
bnumair Dr. Reef at ur service Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tulsa, Ok, USA Posts: 7,751 Blog Entries: 15	Ron Thank you for ur confidence and kind remarks. i am sorry your going through the loss and headache and i hate to say this but i have to as you can see someone above you passed a comment : "I hate everything about QT"... Hate or being rushed (in your case) is the reason why we have these problems... Anyways now that you have taken the right steps hyposalinity is a good treatment and it should rid ich for you if done properly. Here is a guide link i wrote with step by step info you need.. let e know if i can help you any more. Good luck and safe reefing. Mike http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2300497 Note: biopellets will not help seed beneficial bacteria which will in-turn help in keeping tank cycled but infact help in reducing nitrates and phos. Bio pellets are almost identical to carbon dosing. __________________ Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE

02/03/2014, 03:48 PM	#14
Cozwey Go Canada!!!! Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Posts: 363 Blog Entries: 1	Thanks Mike. We are now filling the new tank with RO/DI water. Kelly and I are having a debate here. If we fill the tank and get the salinity to say 1.018 (down from the current QT which is at 1.022 since last night) is that too fast? Also, a question regarding the emergency QT. If we now have it full and move the fish over are we simply doing WC's to control Ammo, Nitrite and Nitrate? There will be no rock or sand. Should we be using water from the DT to have some benefits of the bacteria? Further Kelly would like to know are we somehow supposed to establish a eco system in the QT in order to have the fish survive. She recalls ages ago before LR using sacrificial fish to start the nitrification process. I am inclined to believe that simply doing WC's and controlling salinity is enough. It seams simple but maybe I am wrong. __________________ QT, Go Slow, Read the Stickies People!!!! Current Tank Info: 120g FOWLR, 55 Perm QT, Full Apex, Kessil, Reef Octo, MP40's, MP10's, Plumbed ATO, BRS 2 part dosing.

02/03/2014, 04:13 PM	#15
bnumair Dr. Reef at ur service Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tulsa, Ok, USA Posts: 7,751 Blog Entries: 15	Hi Ron drop in salinity from dt to qt is about 0.04 and that not a large change. Fish can handle lower salinity just fine its increase that need more time to adjust and should be done slowly. Yes with no beneficial bacteria established you will need to rely on water changes or chemicals to rid ammonia. nitrites and nitrates are no threat to fish. in one experiment fish were subjected to very high level of nitrites (about 200+) with no ill effects. I would not use DT water any more. it will continuously introduce free floating ich to QT. also DT water will not bring beneficial bacteria. Yes you are right just water changes alone will take care of the cycle issues, i dont recommend rock/sand in qt they end up complicating things over time. If you want to seed the qt you can try using biospira or dr tims bacteria (no personal experience). Hold salinity tight at 1.009 for as long as last visible ich is gone then add another 2-3 weeks to that for ich unseen in gills etc then start bring the salinity up. i would observe over 2 further weeks to make sure. so total of 10 weeks or more might be required then again u need DT fishless for 10+ weeks anyways. __________________ Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE

02/03/2014, 04:14 PM	#16
bnumair Dr. Reef at ur service Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tulsa, Ok, USA Posts: 7,751 Blog Entries: 15	in case pH dips below 7.8 buff it. __________________ Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE

02/03/2014, 05:34 PM	#17
Cozwey Go Canada!!!! Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Posts: 363 Blog Entries: 1	Ok all fish are in the 55 QT. HOB is running nicely. Temp is climbing to 82F Started at 79. Salinity is currently 1.014. I'll snap a photo in a bit to show the result once I clean up. So now we have 120 DT with 55 sump, 60 DT with 20 sump, 55 long QT, and a 20 QT. With all the water moving in here I have the urge to pee all the time. __________________ QT, Go Slow, Read the Stickies People!!!! Current Tank Info: 120g FOWLR, 55 Perm QT, Full Apex, Kessil, Reef Octo, MP40's, MP10's, Plumbed ATO, BRS 2 part dosing.

02/04/2014, 08:20 AM	#20
dkeller_nc Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Central NC Posts: 5,062	FYI, there is some legitimate disagreement over whether or not to use biological filtration in the form of live rock, live sand, seeded sponge filter or other means in a quarantine tank. In my case, I much prefer it because then one doesn't have to be concerned about ammonia build-up. However, the live rock/live sand causes issues if you're forced to use a copper treatment, and nothing other than bacteria on the LR will survive a hyposalinity treatment. Nevertheless, I've managed to cure 3 fish on 3 separate occasions using hyposalinity, and the LR in the QT meant I only needed to be concerned with monitoring the specific gravity and feeding the fish. I would imagine the every 3rd day 20% or more water changes necessary to control ammonia in a 55 gallon QT would become really burdensome over a 4-6 week period.

02/04/2014, 12:22 PM	#23
Cozwey Go Canada!!!! Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Posts: 363 Blog Entries: 1	I had sponges in my sump however I have added a new (purchased yesterday) QT tank. As a result the sponges are not compatable with the new HOB. I could jam it in and use it. I Do have ceramic type bio pelletes in the sump in a bag. They have been there for many months. They will certainly have bacteria on them but also like has ICH as well. At this point I am running a emergency tank based on Mike's stickies. I could tank out a large peice of LR and add it. When I am down to Hypo salinity it will kill over the ICH but not the bacteria correct? If this is the case once I run my 12 weeks, then can I return that rock to my DT/sump? __________________ QT, Go Slow, Read the Stickies People!!!! Current Tank Info: 120g FOWLR, 55 Perm QT, Full Apex, Kessil, Reef Octo, MP40's, MP10's, Plumbed ATO, BRS 2 part dosing.

02/04/2014, 12:26 PM	#24
Cozwey Go Canada!!!! Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Posts: 363 Blog Entries: 1	Sorry they are "ceramic rings" __________________ QT, Go Slow, Read the Stickies People!!!! Current Tank Info: 120g FOWLR, 55 Perm QT, Full Apex, Kessil, Reef Octo, MP40's, MP10's, Plumbed ATO, BRS 2 part dosing.

02/04/2014, 12:36 PM	#25
dkeller_nc Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Central NC Posts: 5,062	Yeah, just about anything with a high surface area (i.e., porous) that has a bacterial population will work. I wouldn't worry about placing something that may have resting ich cysts into your QT tank at this point, because your fish have ich. These will leave the fish and form cysts, so you will have them in the QT anyway. But the hypo will kill the active infectious stage once they hatch from the cyst, so you're good.