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04/04/2014, 09:50 PM | #1 |
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My badass lights are too badass
I've been playing with the settings on my 300 watt razors. Previously I have had them at the factory preset, but I'm begining to think it was too bright so I cranked it back by 20%. Razor users, at what percentage do you run your lights?
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04/05/2014, 12:35 AM | #2 |
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I forgot to mention my tank is primarily LPS.
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04/05/2014, 08:53 AM | #3 |
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You need to measure the par and adjust until you have about 150-200 par where your corals are placed.
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04/05/2014, 11:49 AM | #4 |
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I don't have a par meter, I imagine 90% or more of us don't. Looking for anectodal answers.
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04/05/2014, 01:24 PM | #5 |
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I would say closer to 98%
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Cage goes in the water, you go in the water. Shark's in the water. Our shark Farewell and adieu to you, fair Spanish ladies. Farewell and adieu, you ladies of Spain. For we've received orders for t Current Tank Info: 65G Reef / 20 Softies / 90 Predator |
04/05/2014, 03:25 PM | #6 |
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The highest my settings get are 65% w and 75% b then they start ramping down. I only have lps. The lights are 8 inches above the tank and I use a glass top.
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125 gallon reef ready with 25 gallon sump. Aqua illumination led, Mp-40 and mp-10 quiet drives. 30 Nuvo AIO SPS focus tank with Hydra Prime HD fixtures MP-10 (No skimmer) |
04/05/2014, 03:41 PM | #7 |
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Thanks doc!
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04/05/2014, 09:11 PM | #8 |
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This is a science based hobby...Anecdotes won't get you very far. Maybe you have a local reef club/store that has one which you can borrow?
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04/05/2014, 10:41 PM | #9 |
Moved On
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LEDs= Epic fail
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04/05/2014, 11:09 PM | #10 |
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And why do you say that, John John? Just stating it isn't helpful.
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04/06/2014, 04:01 AM | #11 |
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04/06/2014, 07:14 AM | #12 | |
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I'm in a fishy situation!!! Current Tank Info: 56 gallon 30 x 18 x 22 with a 40gal sump, SCA 302 skimmer, 10 gal QT tank, a hydror 600 power head, 2 enhiem 150 heaters, 49#'s of dry rock, 12#'s of life rock, 40#'s of sand |
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04/06/2014, 06:30 PM | #13 |
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Start them at 20% then ramp up every week or two. For LPS, you dont need more then 30%. Leds are very direct and bright! Thats a powerful fixture you have!
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04/06/2014, 06:37 PM | #14 |
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I am having spectacular results with reefbreeders leds. My corals(SPS) are growing like crazy and I have coralline everywhere in my tank. And I use 88 watts max per day for 4 hours only. these other 8 hours is sun up and sun down. You have to dial in leds.
They are amazing! I have seen beautiful tanks with Razors as well!
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04/06/2014, 11:05 PM | #15 | |
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As for the original question, I wish I could provide you with real world experience with the light, but I don't have any. I've found that starting low is the best way to go when trying out new lighting though. Start at the low end of the recommendations you get here and slowly crank your light up, probably a week at a time, and see how they respond. When you go too far, crank it back a bit and you've probably found your sweet spot.
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"The moral is the chosen, not the forced; the understood, not the obeyed. The moral is the rational, and reason accepts no commandments." - John Galt Current Tank Info: Cadlights 60G Arisan II mixed reef with 2x MP40s and 24" ATI |
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04/07/2014, 07:03 AM | #16 | |
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04/07/2014, 07:09 AM | #17 | |
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04/07/2014, 07:35 AM | #18 |
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What's more scientific than thousands of tests being preformed daily by thousands of "scientists" to come up with usefull ideas on what may be the best procedures to follow. I think that is pretty much the way the FDA decides what medications are safe for us but, most likely on a much smaller scale. Experience is a great learning tool, not only with lights that can wipe out a coral reef but, parameters, nutrient export/import, species compatibility, filtration, and maybe hundreds of other factors of our hobby.
OP, it seems that lately I read a lot about high watts and lighting. I think there is a thought process that says more is better. That may not be the case. Spectrum plays a very big roll. Is it better to have a thousand watts at 10 percent? Or 100 watts at 100 percent. Not sure of the answer myself but, I do ponder it. Might be one of the factors that cause controversy with LEDs. New types of lighting may not hold to the same truths as other types. |
04/07/2014, 07:49 AM | #19 | |
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04/07/2014, 11:09 AM | #20 | |
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All I said, the point of my response, is that you will achieve the best results by using some measurement to determine the problem. If you do not do this, you will still be unsure and could potentially lead to more problems. This is not an insane thing to do... I dont know why you all take such deep regard to this. |
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04/07/2014, 03:44 PM | #21 | |
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Definitely go slowly with ramping up the intensity. Too little light is more acceptable than too much, at least for the short term.
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In addition peer review isn't a requirement for science. You could be alone on a desert island and conduct science as long as proper methodology is observed. Hobbyist and scientist isn't mutually exclusive either. Science is conducted by amateurs in every highschool daily. In closing this forum is primarily for the exchange of anecdotal information. It is not a scientific journal. |
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04/07/2014, 05:12 PM | #22 | |
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My standards I guess must be unrealistic...but the reef club I belong to pooled our resources to have a par meter available for use between all members. Maybe I'm spoiled i dunno...but it's seems like a very realistic goal to attain. In closing I only suggested that OP will never truly "know" what his light levels are until he get them measured...until then, it's just anecdotal. if anecdotal his fine with him, then so be it. |
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04/07/2014, 05:39 PM | #23 |
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A PAR meter will pay for itself whether you have MH, T5, or LED. In my case I can change MH lamps for $240 every year or check with a PAR Meter $400 or Foot candle Meter $100 and run them up to 24 months or as little as 12 months. In ten years I could of spent $2400 on lamps, instead I spent around $1,680. Saving myself $720. How many run there leds at 80% or T5's or MH and have no clue what there corals require? I run the PAR meter loan club here in San Antonio. Just about every person who has one of the newer LED lights on the market today told me they had to turn there leds down because they had to much PAR! One told me he was throwing his DYI unit out because he had too many hot spots. I never could understand the start out at 20% and raise from there? Does that mean when you get to 80% you can never add another coral for fear of burning it?
Aqualund you have it dead on. |
04/07/2014, 05:55 PM | #24 | |
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04/07/2014, 06:04 PM | #25 | |
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