My First Coral

Mhay · 04/28/2014, 08:34 AM

Over the weekend I decided to pick up my first coral and got a nice little zoa frag. Plopped it in the tank and within 5 mins was fully open! I was so excited and in that exact moment realized I was hooked and addicted

I ended up doing a 30% water change(I know I should have done this before adding the frag) and as expect they closed up. Since then they haven't even shown the slightest bit of wanting to open up again. Now I know I am just being impatient but how long should it be until they open? I want to make sure I'm not killing them. Below are my parameters, let me know if I need to correct something or if I'm good to go and to just wait.

Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrates - 11 (working on getting these down - I've been overfeeding)
pH - Real time 8... I tried a buffer and got it up to 8.3 but it dropped right back down to 8...
Ca - 430ppm
Alk - 10.9 dKH
Mg - 1300ppm

Here they are opened up...

thegrun · 04/28/2014, 08:41 AM

It can take a few days for them to open if they are unhappy or were stressed during the transfer and/or water change. I would recommend that you dip all corals in a good coral dip before you place them in your tank. Ideally you should keep them for a few weeks in a isolation tank, but at a minimum dip them to remove pests.

Mhay · 04/28/2014, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thegrun

It can take a few days for them to open if they are unhappy or were stressed during the transfer and/or water change. I would recommend that you dip all corals in a good coral dip before you place them in your tank. Ideally you should keep them for a few weeks in a isolation tank, but at a minimum dip them to remove pests.

Do you recommend any specific type of dip?

thegrun · 04/28/2014, 08:45 AM

There are several good ones on the market. I go with a 5 minute dip in Tropic Marin Pro Coral Cure followed by a 5 minute dip in ReVive Coral Cleaner

Mhay · 04/28/2014, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thegrun

There are several good ones on the market. I go with a 5 minute dip in Tropic Marin Pro Coral Cure followed by a 5 minute dip in ReVive Coral Cleaner

Thanks! I'll check those out!

Mael · 04/28/2014, 10:38 AM

same here, 5min dip in Revive unless I see anything then I do a 10-15 minute dip and if need be remove anything on the frag.

I have had zoas stayed closed for over a week when they get upset, as long as the polyps dont melt away you should be fine and they will open back up eventually.

joshyross70 · 04/28/2014, 12:09 PM

Awesome. I just got my first zoa frags yesterday too

Mael · 04/28/2014, 12:47 PM

They are highly addictive, especially since they come in literally hundreds of color combos. I have no more room in my tank and still couldnt pass on a latin lover frag locally.

Reef Frog · 04/28/2014, 02:55 PM

Nice zoa. It will open up again I'm sure. They often close up for short & intermediate times for a bunch of reasons.

Your parameters look fine. But your ALK, if correct, is near the high range of the "acceptable" range. I wouldn't let it get much higher. Personally I like ALK 9ish dKH but it's just an opinion. It might come into play as you add more corals.

Suggestion - don't use buffers to "correct" pH. Chasing that number will leave you with an unstable system which makes stony coral keeping problematic. You didn't mention if and how you dose Ca & ALK. But if you can keep those elements on target the pH will take care of itself and corals and other life will adapt to it.

Keep in mind pH naturally changes from day to night and most chemical test kits are not particularly accurate. People with very "tight" homes in the winter (no outside air exchange) with lots of human activity build up CO2 and pH can plummet. But still most hardy corals & reef animals can adapt. The solution here is not buffer either but rather fresh air.

Mhay · 04/28/2014, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reef Frog

Nice zoa. It will open up again I'm sure. They often close up for short & intermediate times for a bunch of reasons.

Your parameters look fine. But your ALK, if correct, is near the high range of the "acceptable" range. I wouldn't let it get much higher. Personally I like ALK 9ish dKH but it's just an opinion. It might come into play as you add more corals.

Suggestion - don't use buffers to "correct" pH. Chasing that number will leave you with an unstable system which makes stony coral keeping problematic. You didn't mention if and how you dose Ca & ALK. But if you can keep those elements on target the pH will take care of itself and corals and other life will adapt to it.

Keep in mind pH naturally changes from day to night and most chemical test kits are not particularly accurate. People with very "tight" homes in the winter (no outside air exchange) with lots of human activity build up CO2 and pH can plummet. But still most hardy corals & reef animals can adapt. The solution here is not buffer either but rather fresh air.

Good to know! I tried the buffer and got it up to 8.3 but it dropped to where it was before overnight. I dose the Ca and Alk with BRS 2 part system. My boyfriend mixed everything up and mixed it incorrectly so it is twice as potent as it should have been. I didn't want the alk that high but there's not much I can do about it at this point.

Where is a good place to be with pH? I was told by my LFS 8.3 is the best. As of right now it is 8.14(thank you apex fusion!)

Mhay · 04/28/2014, 03:04 PM

Would starting my kalkwasser in my ATO be a good idea?

Reef Frog · 04/28/2014, 05:44 PM

Your ALK will drop with some time. Testing will tell you when to resume 2 part dosing.

Kalk & 2 part is not used very often together - it's usually an "either-or" decision. I like 2 part as it's more controllable & levels won't fluctuate due to evaporation rates and your kalk in the ATO.

pH at 8.1 is just fine. 8.3 is often cited as the high end of the desirable range.

Mhay · 05/05/2014, 09:49 AM

So even after a week of letting them be to see if they would open still, nothing. I decided to move them into an area with higher flow, which happens to be closer to the lights. I'm not sure what else to do. I re tested my parameters to make sure I'm still okay and I am. Any ideas? Any suggestions for what my lighting should be?

Most up-to-date parameters:
Temp: 77.5-78.5
pH: ~8.2
SG - 1.025
Alk - 10.6dKH
Ca - 425ppm
Mg - 1260ppm

Pife · 05/05/2014, 12:02 PM

How are your nitrates and po4s?

Mhay · 05/05/2014, 12:45 PM

Those are the 2 tests I forgot to do over the weekend. My nitrates last time were 11ppm and phosphates .04. I took a picture of them while on lunch and they do not look happy what-so-ever.

Mhay · 05/06/2014, 06:42 AM

Phosphates are .04 and nitrates are ~11. Anybody with any input? They still have not opened up

GPSReef · 05/06/2014, 08:13 AM

I can't answer your question about the coral as I'm about to buy my first as well but am interested to hear what the answer is. Love those zoas though what are they called? Did you buy them from an online retailer like unique corals?

RealDowJones · 05/06/2014, 08:48 AM

I am fairly new, but I had a similar experience with my long tentacle zoa. After I did some epoxy of my live rock it stayed closed for over a week. Other zoas in the tank were closed for a few days. Its been almost three weeks and the polyps are just getting back to full extension. From the pic that you posted with them closed the polyp itself still looks healthy. Try moving them to a part of the tank with lower flow and not as much intense light. That helped my situation, and may be worth trying. Hope thats helps!

Mhay · 05/06/2014, 09:11 AM

I got it from my LFS and when I first put them in they opened up right away. I then had to do a water change which is what I think made them mad. Since then they haven't opened. I originally had them in a practically no flow area on the substrate in direct light. I have since moved them to an area where there is medium-high flow.

whosurcaddie · 05/06/2014, 09:29 AM

Yeah you want to keep them in an area of medium to strong flow. Your nitrates are fine zoas like not so pristine conditions. Phosphate is a little high are you planning any phosphate removal like with GFO ore cheato? Some Zoa's are more prone to closing up than others. They could stay closed for a week. The most important thing find a place you like and let them settle in.

Beautiful Zoa's by the way.

kaoscoder · 05/06/2014, 09:50 AM

I was going to suggest maybe your zoa is not getting enough direct light, but sounds like you've already tried that. In my 40 gal, if my zoa's don't get enough light they close up. I know this from when my Marineland reef LED stopped working, I used a small refugium light temporarily until the replacement arrived. The zoa's that stopped receiving direct light closed up.

Mhay · 05/06/2014, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whosurcaddie

Yeah you want to keep them in an area of medium to strong flow. Your nitrates are fine zoas like not so pristine conditions. Phosphate is a little high are you planning any phosphate removal like with GFO ore cheato? Some Zoa's are more prone to closing up than others. They could stay closed for a week. The most important thing find a place you like and let them settle in.

Beautiful Zoa's by the way.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaoscoder

I was going to suggest maybe your zoa is not getting enough direct light, but sounds like you've already tried that. In my 40 gal, if my zoa's don't get enough light they close up. I know this from when my Marineland reef LED stopped working, I used a small refugium light temporarily until the replacement arrived. The zoa's that stopped receiving direct light closed up.

I am currently running GFO - phosphates were higher. I plan to add Cheato as soon as my bf harvests enough from his tank. I left them in the spot they were in at first for a week and since they didn't improve I moved them.

My lighting situation is a little goofy right now. I am running only 1 Gen 2 Radion and I should be running 2. Life keeps getting in the way and I haven't been able to pick up another one yet. But I have the 1 centered over the tank with the zoa in it's light span. Could there be too much light? I am running at about 70% at the peak of the day.

whosurcaddie · 05/06/2014, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mhay

I am currently running GFO - phosphates were higher. I plan to add Cheato as soon as my bf harvests enough from his tank. I left them in the spot they were in at first for a week and since they didn't improve I moved them.

My lighting situation is a little goofy right now. I am running only 1 Gen 2 Radion and I should be running 2. Life keeps getting in the way and I haven't been able to pick up another one yet. But I have the 1 centered over the tank with the zoa in it's light span. Could there be too much light? I am running at about 70% at the peak of the day.

75% in a 75 is lot of light I would try 55%. How deep is your 75.

Mhay · 05/06/2014, 02:29 PM

I think 18"? It's a standard 75 gallon

lcs · 05/06/2014, 08:15 PM

It could be the light. Can you put them on the sand bed or, like the OP suggested, maybe turn the intensity down if you're happy with the flow.

04/28/2014, 08:34 AM	#1
Mhay Crazy Cat Lady Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Woodstock, IL Posts: 468	My First Coral Over the weekend I decided to pick up my first coral and got a nice little zoa frag. Plopped it in the tank and within 5 mins was fully open! I was so excited and in that exact moment realized I was hooked and addicted I ended up doing a 30% water change(I know I should have done this before adding the frag) and as expect they closed up. Since then they haven't even shown the slightest bit of wanting to open up again. Now I know I am just being impatient but how long should it be until they open? I want to make sure I'm not killing them. Below are my parameters, let me know if I need to correct something or if I'm good to go and to just wait. Ammonia - 0 Nitrite - 0 Nitrates - 11 (working on getting these down - I've been overfeeding) pH - Real time 8... I tried a buffer and got it up to 8.3 but it dropped right back down to 8... Ca - 430ppm Alk - 10.9 dKH Mg - 1300ppm Here they are opened up... __________________ Maggie Current Tank Info: Coralife Biocube 29

04/28/2014, 03:04 PM	#11
Mhay Crazy Cat Lady Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Woodstock, IL Posts: 468	Would starting my kalkwasser in my ATO be a good idea? __________________ Maggie Current Tank Info: Coralife Biocube 29

05/05/2014, 09:49 AM	#13
Mhay Crazy Cat Lady Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Woodstock, IL Posts: 468	So even after a week of letting them be to see if they would open still, nothing. I decided to move them into an area with higher flow, which happens to be closer to the lights. I'm not sure what else to do. I re tested my parameters to make sure I'm still okay and I am. Any ideas? Any suggestions for what my lighting should be? Most up-to-date parameters: Temp: 77.5-78.5 pH: ~8.2 SG - 1.025 Alk - 10.6dKH Ca - 425ppm Mg - 1260ppm __________________ Maggie Current Tank Info: Coralife Biocube 29

05/05/2014, 12:02 PM	#14
Pife Registered Member Join Date: May 2013 Posts: 7,408	How are your nitrates and po4s? __________________ Brandon I'm not saying let's get rid of all the stupid people.* I'm just saying let's remove all the warning labels and let the problem work itself out. Current Tank Info: 150g DT plumbed to an 80g frag tank and 220g sump in the basement. ~6-MP40s ~ 12 ATI powered t5s ~ Reefbrites and Radions supplementing ~ Custom GEO Skimmer ~ GEO CA Reactor 6x24~ Iwaki 70 Return ~

05/05/2014, 12:45 PM	#15
Mhay Crazy Cat Lady Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Woodstock, IL Posts: 468	Those are the 2 tests I forgot to do over the weekend. My nitrates last time were 11ppm and phosphates .04. I took a picture of them while on lunch and they do not look happy what-so-ever. __________________ Maggie Current Tank Info: Coralife Biocube 29

04/28/2014, 08:41 AM	#2
thegrun Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Garden Grove, Ca Posts: 17,023	It can take a few days for them to open if they are unhappy or were stressed during the transfer and/or water change. I would recommend that you dip all corals in a good coral dip before you place them in your tank. Ideally you should keep them for a few weeks in a isolation tank, but at a minimum dip them to remove pests.

04/28/2014, 08:45 AM	#4
thegrun Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Garden Grove, Ca Posts: 17,023	There are several good ones on the market. I go with a 5 minute dip in Tropic Marin Pro Coral Cure followed by a 5 minute dip in ReVive Coral Cleaner

04/28/2014, 10:38 AM	#6
Mael Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Phoenix Posts: 1,351	same here, 5min dip in Revive unless I see anything then I do a 10-15 minute dip and if need be remove anything on the frag. I have had zoas stayed closed for over a week when they get upset, as long as the polyps dont melt away you should be fine and they will open back up eventually.

04/28/2014, 12:09 PM	#7
joshyross70 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Posts: 394	Awesome. I just got my first zoa frags yesterday too

04/28/2014, 12:47 PM	#8
Mael Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Phoenix Posts: 1,351	They are highly addictive, especially since they come in literally hundreds of color combos. I have no more room in my tank and still couldnt pass on a latin lover frag locally.

04/28/2014, 02:55 PM	#9
Reef Frog Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Maryland Posts: 3,121	Nice zoa. It will open up again I'm sure. They often close up for short & intermediate times for a bunch of reasons. Your parameters look fine. But your ALK, if correct, is near the high range of the "acceptable" range. I wouldn't let it get much higher. Personally I like ALK 9ish dKH but it's just an opinion. It might come into play as you add more corals. Suggestion - don't use buffers to "correct" pH. Chasing that number will leave you with an unstable system which makes stony coral keeping problematic. You didn't mention if and how you dose Ca & ALK. But if you can keep those elements on target the pH will take care of itself and corals and other life will adapt to it. Keep in mind pH naturally changes from day to night and most chemical test kits are not particularly accurate. People with very "tight" homes in the winter (no outside air exchange) with lots of human activity build up CO2 and pH can plummet. But still most hardy corals & reef animals can adapt. The solution here is not buffer either but rather fresh air.

04/28/2014, 05:44 PM	#12
Reef Frog Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Maryland Posts: 3,121	Your ALK will drop with some time. Testing will tell you when to resume 2 part dosing. Kalk & 2 part is not used very often together - it's usually an "either-or" decision. I like 2 part as it's more controllable & levels won't fluctuate due to evaporation rates and your kalk in the ATO. pH at 8.1 is just fine. 8.3 is often cited as the high end of the desirable range.

05/06/2014, 06:42 AM	#16
Mhay Crazy Cat Lady Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Woodstock, IL Posts: 468	Phosphates are .04 and nitrates are ~11. Anybody with any input? They still have not opened up __________________ Maggie Current Tank Info: Coralife Biocube 29

05/06/2014, 08:13 AM	#17
GPSReef Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Broward county FL Posts: 93	I can't answer your question about the coral as I'm about to buy my first as well but am interested to hear what the answer is. Love those zoas though what are they called? Did you buy them from an online retailer like unique corals?

05/06/2014, 08:48 AM	#18
RealDowJones Registered Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Houston Posts: 5	I am fairly new, but I had a similar experience with my long tentacle zoa. After I did some epoxy of my live rock it stayed closed for over a week. Other zoas in the tank were closed for a few days. Its been almost three weeks and the polyps are just getting back to full extension. From the pic that you posted with them closed the polyp itself still looks healthy. Try moving them to a part of the tank with lower flow and not as much intense light. That helped my situation, and may be worth trying. Hope thats helps!

05/06/2014, 09:11 AM	#19
Mhay Crazy Cat Lady Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Woodstock, IL Posts: 468	I got it from my LFS and when I first put them in they opened up right away. I then had to do a water change which is what I think made them mad. Since then they haven't opened. I originally had them in a practically no flow area on the substrate in direct light. I have since moved them to an area where there is medium-high flow. __________________ Maggie Current Tank Info: Coralife Biocube 29

05/06/2014, 09:29 AM	#20
whosurcaddie Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 2,354	Yeah you want to keep them in an area of medium to strong flow. Your nitrates are fine zoas like not so pristine conditions. Phosphate is a little high are you planning any phosphate removal like with GFO ore cheato? Some Zoa's are more prone to closing up than others. They could stay closed for a week. The most important thing find a place you like and let them settle in. Beautiful Zoa's by the way.

05/06/2014, 09:50 AM	#21
kaoscoder Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Nashville Posts: 34	I was going to suggest maybe your zoa is not getting enough direct light, but sounds like you've already tried that. In my 40 gal, if my zoa's don't get enough light they close up. I know this from when my Marineland reef LED stopped working, I used a small refugium light temporarily until the replacement arrived. The zoa's that stopped receiving direct light closed up.

05/06/2014, 02:29 PM	#24
Mhay Crazy Cat Lady Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Woodstock, IL Posts: 468	I think 18"? It's a standard 75 gallon __________________ Maggie Current Tank Info: Coralife Biocube 29

05/06/2014, 08:15 PM	#25
lcs It's Spring!!!!!!! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Brockport, NY Posts: 1,370	It could be the light. Can you put them on the sand bed or, like the OP suggested, maybe turn the intensity down if you're happy with the flow.