Does the BRS RO/DI 150 GPD remove chloramine?

[Ryanrttu]

Houstons water has chloramine in it so...

I know BRS sells one that is a 6 stage 75GPD chloramine that has a chloramine remover as well but I want to produce water faster but dont see a 150 GPD with a chloramine remover. Is there somewhere online I could buy a 150 gpd with the chloramine remover or is that even necessary in the sense that the ro/di removes it anyways?

[bobbyc366]

Originally Posted by Ryanrttu

Houstons water has chloramine in it so...

I know BRS sells one that is a 6 stage 75GPD chloramine that has a chloramine remover as well but I want to produce water faster but dont see a 150 GPD with a chloramine remover. Is there somewhere online I could buy a 150 gpd with the chloramine remover or is that even necessary in the sense that the ro/di removes it anyways?

Get the 75 g. Upgrade from brs that's what I did

[maddmaxx]

Originally Posted by bobbyc366

Get the 75 g. Upgrade from brs that's what I did

same as i did...

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

IME, most ordinary carbon blocks are adequate. It certainly is in my case, and was in the case of most people that I surveyed for my chloramine article.

I discuss it here:

Chloramine and the Reef Aquarium
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-1...ture/index.htm

[disc1]

Or get the 150 and add an extra chamber with the carbon block from the chloramine unit. They sell the refill cartridges and all of those canisters are the same. It would probably be a 20 or 30 dollar add on.

[Drakon]

Side note. Before you buy a unit get a gage and check the water pressure where you plan to make the water. Think you need at least 55psi for the 75 gpd and 65psi for the 150. They have booster pumps if yours is lacking. Also that is water pressure at the ro unit. Some if not each will drop your pressure a little bit if I'm not mistaken. I was lucky I have 55 on the nose but more would make the whole think more efficient.

[Ryanrttu]

Originally Posted by bobbyc366

Get the 75 g. Upgrade from brs that's what I did

Are you talking about the separate cartridge that you just add on to an existing unit or just buy the $300 all in one like this one. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-6-...tem-75gpd.html

Also, how much good water could I pull out from the one I linked above on average per hour.

[coralsnaked]

Originally Posted by Randy Holmes-Farley

IME, most ordinary carbon blocks are adequate. It certainly is in my case, and was in the case of most people that I surveyed for my chloramine article.

I discuss it here:

Chloramine and the Reef Aquarium
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-1...ture/index.htm

Randy
How well doea the RO handle the busted up chloromines when he pH is off the chart 10+ or higher. Am I wasting my money with an extra DI on the back end to insure all ammonia is removed down to acceptasble levels.

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

You need the DI since ammonia is a product of chloramine breakdown and it gets through an RO reasonably easily. Using two DI cartridges is better than one since you make use of their complete capacity better, but one is adequate if you keep the TDS to 0 ppm.

[disc1]

Originally Posted by Ryanrttu

Are you talking about the separate cartridge that you just add on to an existing unit or just buy the $300 all in one like this one. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-6-...tem-75gpd.html

Also, how much good water could I pull out from the one I linked above on average per hour.

I meant one of these:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/revers...canisters.html

and this:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/pentek...s-removal.html

and just add it on to the system you want.

I'm with Randy that just about any carbon will do the trick, but if you want the chloramine block you can have it on whatever RODI system you want.

[Ryanrttu]

Originally Posted by disc1

I meant one of these:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/revers...canisters.html

and this:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/pentek...s-removal.html

and just add it on to the system you want.

I'm with Randy that just about any carbon will do the trick, but if you want the chloramine block you can have it on whatever RODI system you want.

Thanks! And this can just be easily added to a BRS unit? I've never played around with one of these things before

[disc1]

Sure, you can pull the line from the last carbon canister to the RO membrane and splice the new one right in there so it's between them now. You might need a little extra line, but that's not hard to find at BOBS.

[Ryanrttu]

Anyone own the BRS 300 GPD TDS Spartan? This thing pumps out water incredibly fast and pretty solid reviews all around.

[Ryanrttu]

Also, out of the 3 canisters that are together, you guys are talking about taking out the right canister (carbon block) and replace that with a Chloramines canister?

[disc1]

I don't know about right or left since I don't know which side were looking from. But look at the plumbing. The chlorine block should be last. Right before the RO membrane.