Bulkhead leaking.. Cannot get to bulkhead to tighten/repair...

[Praben]

Hello RC! I have a bit of a major problem, one of the bulkheads on my 125gal drilled tank is leaking slightly. OK no problem, we tighten it/replace it right? Well... the way my custom stand was built I don't see how I can get a wrench in this space to reach the bottom of the bulkhead to tighten it or remove it. This is what I get for having my "expert" friend set everything up before I knew anything about anything, I could go on for hours about that debacle.

I've included 4 pictures, 2 are looking up from the underneath the tank when I stick my head through the front access door. The other 2 are of a very small opening I have on the back of the bottom of stand when I can see both pipes. The one leaking is the one closest to the front of the tank.

I have no idea what to do here. After having this tank up for 3-4 years this design flaw appears to be a HUGE issue. I'm asking myself how it was every installed if I cannot get a wrench in this space, I think the bulkheads and the initial pipes where installed and then the tank was lifted onto the stand (I could be wrong though).

Please help! Where do I begin?

[Reefer54]

DOW CORNING 795. It will seal over the wet area if it is a slow enough drip, cure and be ok. I have used excessive pvc cement in the past with luck, but always covered a faulty area excessively with silicone, but dow corning is my favorite for seals....it is ridiculous industrial.

or take apart everything....you may be able to make that hole a little bigger if you are really careful.

sorry, good luck.

[Praben]

Do you know if any major stores (Lowes, Ace, etc.) carry that? Searching on Home Depot's website they link to Pittsburgh Corning Model # 102133 Glass Block Sealant, it appears similar.

I'm concerned a sealant won't be enough, you've had luck in the past though?

I was cleaning the return nozzle at the top of this bulkhead/pipe and I assume that is when the leak started. I've done the same exact maintenance several times and no leaks, ugh.

I honestly don't even know how I would begin taking everything apart... To get to the nut that tightens the bulkhead I would need to lift the 125 gallon tank on top, and I assume it would need to be empty. 4 Years of coral, rock, livestock, etc., I wouldn't have enough buckets and containers to store it! It is all glued PVC throughout the bottom into the refugium.. I hope there is another way, I may foreclose on my house before I could undo then redo this setup, the time/money/work is mind boggling to me.

[Praben]

Looking at this issue for the last hour nonstop trying not to have a heart attack or simply cry, here is a clear explanation of the problem. The bottom of the bulkheads are blocked by wood that surrounds them. The way the stand was built, the top of the stand had a flat sheet of wood that acts as a base for the tank to sit on. This wood base appears to have been cut the absolute minimum possible to allow the pipes from the bulkheads to fit (hence why I think the tank was lifted onto the stand after the bulkheads/pipes were set).

The tank itself does not sit flush against the entire flat base of the stand though, I can see the glass sits just off of the wood (1/4"?), because only the frame of the tank is actually sitting on the base of the stand. Do you think it would be possible to cut away some of the wood while the tank is full, standing in place or am I asking to die?

[gone fishin]

I really feel for you on this one. Is it possible to get a screwdriver on the ears of the flange and give it a tap to tighten it.

Just from the picks I think I would try to use a dremel to cut away some of the wood for access. But you are there and I am not so I can't really tell if it is load bearing or not.

Or just live with the leak get or build a better stand and swap it out. My favored choice. Anyway good luck.

[DasCamel]

Depends on what you cut, and if it's a supporting structure. If your asking that question I probably wouldn't do it.

[Dapg8gt]

If you can get it dry by shutting off the tank an industrial sealant or spray on epoxy should work for a while but you never know when it will start to drip again..

Cheap one to gain some time is that as seen on TV stuff called mighty seal (spray on screen door in boat) it works pretty well actually I used it on a cracked back splash in my garage that was all rotted out behind an old concrete mop sink and it gave me some time till I replaced it.. Might have lasted the duration I just can't let myself rig something permanently.. I would personally try all I could to tighten it with a chisel/screwdriver and if that failed I'd rip it down and start over..

[pmrossetti]

I think you could cut the wood out from around it.

Tanks I've seen have much bigger cutouts around the bulkheads.

you're not cutting any vertical supports, right?

[nazarma]

Originally Posted by pmrossetti

I think you could cut the wood out from around it.

Tanks I've seen have much bigger cutouts around the bulkheads.

you're not cutting any vertical supports, right?

I had the same problem! I just cut around it with a dermal. I took it very slow and carefully. Make sure to check the distance between bottom of tank and stank I had a 1/2 inch gap because of bottom brace.

[Praben]

Thank you so much everyone for the feedback, I'm in shock of the situation, the leak is one thing but to realize the major design issue NOW is killing me.

I've added 4 more pictures to try to show the leaking area and what I'm working with in regards to the gap between the stand top wood base and the gap, which is about 1/4" between the wood and glass. Only the outer "rim" of the tank is actually sitting on the stand it appears.

I'm not a pro with a dremel, but have used it for a few dozen jobs over the years. What would be the correct blade/bit I would want to use, if I attempt this? The wood itself is 11/16" thick and I only have 1/4" gap max between the wood and the glass bottom of the tank (which I do not want to even tap).

I may try one of the sealants recommended as a quick fix, but would like to feel a little more secure with a tightened or replaced bulkhead in the long run. I do like the stand, the outside was custom built by a cabinet manufacturer. But, my friend the "set me up" when I purchased the tank suggested we raise the stand (3 levels of 2 x 4"s then the flat piece covering the whole thing). I assume if I could cut adequate room around the bulkheads I should be OK down the road?

[Praben]

I tried to get a screwdriver on the flange ear and give it a few light taps, no luck. May have increased the speed of the leak very slightly if anything. I'm assuming there is a hairline crack in the bulkhead or the gasket, and when I moved it a little when reapplying the return nozzle earlier it was enough to get it flowing.

[Praben]

Originally Posted by nazarma

I had the same problem! I just cut around it with a dermal. I took it very slow and carefully. Make sure to check the distance between bottom of tank and stank I had a 1/2 inch gap because of bottom brace.

Glad I'm not the only one! I wish I had a full 1/2", would feel a little better about it. Do you know why the wood around yours was not cut out as much as 99% of the other tanks out there? This friend that got me into the hobby and setup this tank for me, one problem after the other (skimmer on wrong side of refug, inflow/outflow pipes placed in wrong bulkheads, and this). What type of bit/wheel/blade did you use on the dremel?

[rgulrich]

I see two choices here. 1.) try to work around this by using an oscillating cutter, dremel, or some such and actually gain some access to the nut on the bulkhead to tighten it, and then worry about the integrity of the fix and the stand for however long you decide to keep the aquarium up and running. 2.) Pick up a Rubbermaid stock tank, seal the bulkhead stopper very well and test it a few times with water (they're kind of renowned for leaking...it's a stock tank), and set it up to hold your livestock with filtration, skimming, lighting and all until you get your stand and aquarium issues fixed.
I've been down both paths and like not worrying, myself. I'm also not intimidated by shutting down my 300 if conditions warrant - not something I'd look forward to, mind you, but I've set up a 150 stock tank in the basement for all of the inverts and rock before.

[billdogg]

The only real option, I'm sorry to say, is to fix it properly. Glopping on sealant (of whatever type) around the leak will just delay the inevitable. It will be quite the PITA, but you need to do it right. IF you can cut away enough of the plywood to get decent access to the bulkhead that is great, you might be able to fix it that way. IMO/IME, you will end up taking the bulkhead apart, cleaning all surfaces, and reinstalling it. Another thing to keep in mind is that, unless that plywood is exterior grade, it will begin to delaminate, and then what's the plan?

[Lincutis]

I had a similar problem a few years ago. Ran to the CVS and picked up some mighty putty. It works in the wet environment. I formed a good seal and held it in place for a while. Never had another issue from it as long as I had that tank which was a few years.

[Texas Paul]

You should try to fix it properly, but plumbers putty epoxy will work. Make sure you putty from the threads all the way past the flange nut to the tank bottom and to the stand cut out. Use a lot and try to create a cone completely around the bulkhead all the way to the cut out. Try not to put any bending loads on the bulkhead from the plumbing attached. In my experience, bending loads makes them leak. I try to keep a short run of vinyl tubing between the hard piping of the bulkhead and the hard piping to the sump and return pump. Keeps the side loads down and helps with leaks. Good luck!

[ca1ore]

Must say, it looks to me as if the bulkhead was installed incorrectly. I cannot tell for sure from the photos, but it looks like the gasket is on the nut side rather than on the flange side. It also appears that silicone was used on the flange side, which works ok as long as the gasket is on that side too.

I think if you are careful, you could use a Dremel to remove part of the plywood top. 1/4 inch clearance is tight, so just make sure to set up the drill so that the bit cannot touch the glass. After that, I would not 'band-aid' things with putty or sealant. Rather remove the bulkhead, clean it (probably not cracked) and reinstall properly. Often, just attempting to tighten the nut will cause it to leak even worse.

[Lincutis]

They do make L shaped crescent wrenches that would probably work.

[Praben]

Update: After reading through all of the replies (thank you) and talking with the owner of my LFS, I'm going to try to cut some of the wood away and try to make enough room to get to the bulkhead.

I bought the mini saw attachment for my dremel, part #670 (pictured). I don't think the little blade will be thick enough to cut completely through the wood, but I'm so concerned with hitting the glass I think I would rather start with this and if I have to go back with something else and take a small bit off, then so be it.

[Pittsburgh]

Dremel also has a multipurpose cutting bit (#561). You can have it stick out just enough so that it doesn't go beyond the thickness of plywood. If the saw blade is not enough, the cutting bit should finish the job.

[rioshilo]

A router bit is what you want for that job. Then set the height so that the bit remains a safe distance away from the glass.

A different method that may work other then a wrench... I didn't have any wrenches when I installed my bulkheads I took a 2x4 and ripped a section out of the middle of one end about 2" wide, or whatever the flats of the nuts were sized at. That 2x4 then acted like a socket, slipping over the threads down to the nut and engaging them to tighten the bulkhead.

[Texas Paul]

Praben - Bulkheads can be a real pain to install when they are on the bottom of the tank. Here are a few tools that can help make the job easier. One is from the Orange Big Box Store, the other is ordered on-line. These might make the job a little easier.....

Good Luck!

[jamiepm]

Is it a slow leak? I have a similar problem bulkhead that drips maybe one drop an hour. I have no way of getting at it. I put a piece of thread from the leak to a small tuperware dish. The thread makes sure the moisture follows it to the dish. Every once in a while I rinse the dish.

[devildog12210]

Originally Posted by Texas Paul

I never knew such a thing existed!

[Reefer54]

dow corning is going to be an order item....but overnight shipping is possible.

i have the same kind of hole in my stand, no way could i ever get a tool or even my hand in to tighten anything up there....i know what you are contemplating.

however, i think the best route is to stop flow through there if possible, let it dry (hairdryers are awesome, but be ready to epoxy or seal as soon as you are done drying (expansion, contraction can be used in your favor here)) then apply some silicone or sealant and it should band aid until you can get a good sealant like dow corning or decide the best alternative route you choose.


good luck.....i hope when you are done, you say to yourself: that wasnt so bad.