Community Help so I can buy my Equipment.

[@rmyvet]

Hello Everyone,
I'm a Retired Army Veteran and a newbie to the Saltwater Hobby. Freshwater to me was a snap 28 years no problem. But this saltwater hobby has me stressed out people. I only been looking on the chat forums for about a month and I been deep in reading and watching videos. I brought a 90 gallon pre drilled tank with a descent base. Now that I'm ready to start buying the protein skimmer, sump, return pump, wave maker, heater, uv light, test kit, light for the refugium, light for the tank and do I need a Reactor so Pretty much everything. I been looking at skimmers I been looking at the Vertex and the reef Octopus I get mixed reviews and I was looking into one that exceeds over my tank gallons like the Octopus 150. Also the sump I been looking at the Trigger I think that's the only one I seen that is pretty good. Like the ruby36 and the green on 39" when it comes out. Why the color ones well as I read the colors are so the other compartments when the light from the refugium is on light don't pass thru causing it to create algae. So since I'm new to this I really don't want that to happen. I see people buy the clear so does it really matter clear or color. I seen the wave maker MP40 but Wow if i need a couple of those man thats to much. But i did see one that is like the MP40 i think its called Jebao something like that and i saw it does pretty much the same isnt wireless but its way cheaper and i can get like 3 or 4 of them. This is not mentioning the doser should I get the chemicals and just mix and pour or get the drip machine and make it a little easier or am I just throwing money away. Don't get me wrong I can't buy top of the line but if between a simple one to a better one is only 100 or so more ill get the better one. Also when filling up the tank do I buy the saltwater or do I buy the sea salt and what kind or brand of salt. I'm going to stop now because I have so many question and I just want to make sure what I get is going to work even for the beginner. So if This Community could help me out on picking these items I would appreciate it. The more people I get for that product that's what I'm going to buy. If i spell something wrong or say something wrong please excuse me i only been in this a month now. The size of my base inside is 47" long x 17" wide x 28 1/2 high. Thank you so much for your time. Take care and God Bless America. The @rmyvet.

[Vinny Kreyling]

@rmyvet,
There is a big club in FL, check it out in the Reef Club section. This is where I would start. There is a wealth of knowledge in clubs, the members are great with sharing and there is also the possibility of getting something needed used.
The best advise I can give is to take it slow, nothing good happens fast.
1st thing you will need is an RO unit if you want corals. Salt is like lighting, you will get many opinions. Personally I use Instant Ocean.
AND not everything has to be bought right away.
Vinny

[@rmyvet]

Vinny,
Thanks for your input and I will look into that club section. I will take it easy I'm in no hurry and I too believe to just take it day by day. I just wanted to start pricing everything so I know what the damage is going to be. Also just when I think thats it no more stuff here I learn that I need a RO for coral. When does it ever stop sometimes I just want to go with just freshwater and be done with. But then I see the beauty of the tank with the fish coral and etc. so I will take your advice and try not to stress myself out. Thanks again Vinny.

[phillrodrigo]

Octopus skimmers are great. Lightning I'm not gonna touch that one way to many options led t5 halides. The jaebo wp 25 or the new ones are the rw 4 I think are the ones you want maybe a 8. For test kits I use the api master kit for the cycle. Then I bought salifert test kits for alk mag and calcium. The Jagger heaters work well. Return pump I use a mag 9.5. But the mag drives use alot of power. There are pumps that draw alot less

[santanzchild]

My Bubble Magus skimmer is a good bit cheaper then the reef octopus and works pretty dang well.

First starting up the tank you dont have to buy absolutely everything right off the bat. I started my first SW tank with an old FW tank some sand and rock one powerhead a heater and a hang on back protein skimmer. It was a 30g and survived for a few years before I broke it down for a PCS.

If money is a bit of a issue using a place like Marco Rocks or the like is great for some dead base rock then you can get a piece or two of choice live rock to seed everything and its easily half the cost.

[@rmyvet]

Originally Posted by phillrodrigo

Octopus skimmers are great. Lightning I'm not gonna touch that one way to many options led t5 halides. The jaebo wp 25 or the new ones are the rw 4 I think are the ones you want maybe a 8. For test kits I use the api master kit for the cycle. Then I bought salifert test kits for alk mag and calcium. The Jagger heaters work well. Return pump I use a mag 9.5. But the mag drives use alot of power. There are pumps that draw alot less

Thanks Phillrodrigo,
Yes I have seen this skimmer and it is on my list to review and yes I know what you mean about the lights there are tons of them. The Jaebo is a good buy for something that's going to perform some what the same as the MP40 which for me starting out I believe this would be a wise choice. I can get 4 compared to the MP40 I could only get 1. The test kits are pretty basic just wanted to fine one that has everything but I will look into those. The heater I will look at that brand there I didn't know were to start so I'll see the one you recommend and I'll go from there. I seen the mag drives and they look solid I never looked into the power. But I wonder if getting a different one that draw less power will affect the performance of the quality of the pump. Well let's see Thank you for your input now I can start looking to see which way to go. Thanks again I'll post when I get it up and running but it will take awhile just taking it day by day. Thanks again. @rmyvet.

[@rmyvet]

Originally Posted by santanzchild

My Bubble Magus skimmer is a good bit cheaper then the reef octopus and works pretty dang well.

First starting up the tank you dont have to buy absolutely everything right off the bat. I started my first SW tank with an old FW tank some sand and rock one powerhead a heater and a hang on back protein skimmer. It was a 30g and survived for a few years before I broke it down for a PCS.

If money is a bit of a issue using a place like Marco Rocks or the like is great for some dead base rock then you can get a piece or two of choice live rock to seed everything and its easily half the cost.

Hi Santanzchild,
Thank you for your feed back. I saw those and yes they are less money and I know that sometimes a cheaper model will pretty much match a more expensive model if made right. I was wondering does the name Bubble have anything to do with the way the machine works or do they all do the Bubble just doesn't say it for a more fancier name. I'm in no hurry to getting everything just little by little to were I buy what I need pay that off and continue to the next purchase it's going to take a bit for me. I read about the dead rock and I think that can be a better option for me cost wise and do what you said about seeding the other rocks. It's funny every time I think that is about what I need to buy there are more things that pop up that I need to get. It's like never ending in starting up a tank. Lol. Thats what i want to just get the basic stuff what i really need to begin the hobby and start from there. I wonder if i can just start with this basic items like tank,sump,skimmer,jets,wave machine,heater,return pump,UV and of coarse sand,saltwater. But do i need to get like the Ro/D1,Reactor,Chiller,Dosing the stuff is endless and believe me it stresses me out. I spend hours on the internet just reading about the hobby. Well Thanks again for your reply and I know someday things are going to get better when i'm sitting around looking at my saltwater tank achievement for hours. Thanks again. @rmyvet.

[santanzchild]

All skimmers use bubbles thats how they drag the waste out of the water its just the name of it.

tank,sump,skimmer,jets,wave machine,heater,return pump and RO/DI is what I would start with.

I have a UV unit that is used for a discus tank but have yet to see a need for one on my salt tank. I am sure I will get one for it some day but just hasn't come up to the top of the list for me yet.

[@rmyvet]

Originally Posted by santanzchild

All skimmers use bubbles thats how they drag the waste out of the water its just the name of it.

tank,sump,skimmer,jets,wave machine,heater,return pump and RO/DI is what I would start with.

I have a UV unit that is used for a discus tank but have yet to see a need for one on my salt tank. I am sure I will get one for it some day but just hasn't come up to the top of the list for me yet.

Santanzchild,
That's what I wanted to hear what is the basic stuff to get. Then little by little upgrade make changes. I just want to start the hobby. Now I have a question. The RO/DI is there a particular one as far as stages 4 or 5. Also when you get the pure clean water in a big gallon drum what do you do with the water. Do you just add salt to it or do you get jugs and prepare the mix there. I always thought with you get that water from the pet store it was already with salt. I'm truly new to this so that's why I learn as I go because one thing for me if I don't see videos or read it can mean another thing to me. So when you make the water do you mix it on hand or just wait till you need it to mix it. Thank for your help. @rmyvet.

[santanzchild]

You can get the jugs at the petstore premixed but frankly its a pita and gets exspensive.
you can go to bulkreeefsuppy and buy one of there units everyone seems to say they are good and fairly priced.
I have a spectrapure maxcap system there a little more pricey but I splurged. Supposedly they have a proprietary treatment process they use on there filters that make them better. But I aint a RO guru but I have seen a few around here.

As for mixing I usually let the rodi unit fill a 42g brute trashcan with RODI then use a small pump and tubing to transfer it to a 34g that I use for mixing. Add about 16 cups of instant ocean reef crystals stir with a giant piece of pvc then drop in a couple of power heads (one top one bottom with aeration lines) a heater and a floaty thermometer and let it sit for a hour or two. Next I check the salinity once it has mixed clear and adjust it to 1.025 since it is usually a little lower then that with my original mix.

[@rmyvet]

Originally Posted by santanzchild

You can get the jugs at the petstore premixed but frankly its a pita and gets exspensive.
you can go to bulkreeefsuppy and buy one of there units everyone seems to say they are good and fairly priced.
I have a spectrapure maxcap system there a little more pricey but I splurged. Supposedly they have a proprietary treatment process they use on there filters that make them better. But I aint a RO guru but I have seen a few around here.

As for mixing I usually let the rodi unit fill a 42g brute trashcan with RODI then use a small pump and tubing to transfer it to a 34g that I use for mixing. Add about 16 cups of instant ocean reef crystals stir with a giant piece of pvc then drop in a couple of power heads (one top one bottom with aeration lines) a heater and a floaty thermometer and let it sit for a hour or two. Next I check the salinity once it has mixed clear and adjust it to 1.025 since it is usually a little lower then that with my original mix.

Ok I got you now I understand that makes it so much easier. So when you reach salinity and temp is that the only thing I would do to it and just pour it in. Would I pour it through the sump or in the tank. So what is the purpose of making the water does it evaporate from the tank would i notice the level of the water in the tank low is it a standard evaporation or does it change from tank to tank. Thanks a lot you been a great help. Sometimes the videos explain things but not into detail like I would know what there talking about. Thanks again you given me the will to keep forward. Lol.

[Vinny Kreyling]

Water changes are done by 1st removing the amount you will replace.
New salt water can be made either while you do all the maintenance needed or before hand.
Slight temp. differences are no concern, clear new water is.
Make up is a whole different story - you use fresh water -- NO SALT
If you have a sump the water level will change there - NOT in the tank

[DDon]

Hey @rmyvet,
First I want to thank you for your service. Your sacrifice is appreciated.

The saltwater mix is used for your initial fill and for water changes. Do not use saltwater to makeup for evaporation. If you do your tank salinity will increase and you will kill stuff. Use ro/di water only for makeup of evaporation losses. Evaporation rates vary by tank dependent on air temp, air flow, water temp, surface area and water surface agitation. You should makeup evap losses daily or better yet and much easier to handle look at auto top off system, they are relatively inexpensive.
The bulk reef supply ro/di units are pretty good units for the money.

Welcome to the world of saltwater
Dale

[santanzchild]

^ what they said.

[@rmyvet]

Originally Posted by Vinny Kreyling

Water changes are done by 1st removing the amount you will replace.
New salt water can be made either while you do all the maintenance needed or before hand.
Slight temp. differences are no concern, clear new water is.
Make up is a whole different story - you use fresh water -- NO SALT
If you have a sump the water level will change there - NOT in the tank

Ok Vinny thank you much appreciated.

[@rmyvet]

Originally Posted by DDon

Hey @rmyvet,
First I want to thank you for your service. Your sacrifice is appreciated.

The saltwater mix is used for your initial fill and for water changes. Do not use saltwater to makeup for evaporation. If you do your tank salinity will increase and you will kill stuff. Use ro/di water only for makeup of evaporation losses. Evaporation rates vary by tank dependent on air temp, air flow, water temp, surface area and water surface agitation. You should makeup evap losses daily or better yet and much easier to handle look at auto top off system, they are relatively inexpensive.
The bulk reef supply ro/di units are pretty good units for the money.

Welcome to the world of saltwater
Dale

Happy to serve Dale it was a real big experience in my life good and bad. Thanks for the information. I'm super new to this hobby and at times I get it but right when I am understanding the process someone comes up with another step and just takes my mind out of wack. I'm looking into BRS there videos and I'm trying to write down the things they mention to make the hobby just a little bit simple. Like that auto top off I was looking at like you mentioned. But this is the things that confuse me. There's a Hydor smart auto top off easy I saw it and it's not that bad in price. so that I would get but they never mention where I get the water from to top it off. Wasn't till I saw a diagram from a web site that showed a reserve tank next to the sump and is that the water that i prepare and just leave it there till the top off asks for it. but what happen if you don't have room in your cabinet to fit another tank is it a waste of money then on getting it or is there like a flat slim jug that I can use. These are the things I run into with my tank it is in the living room but if I had it near the garage it would be better I would just have the sump and everything else in the garage but that's not possible. Couple years from now I'll be looking back and seeing how a cub scout I was in the hobby hahaha. Thanks for your help Dale and believe me I take everybodys advice in this hobby just a matter of time when it just clicks. Thanks again. @rmyvet.

[santanzchild]

If you dont have much room left under your cabinent you can try using a container like this

7g water jugs or a smaller version.

[DDon]

Yep you need a reservoir for the top off water. I did manual makeup for a couple years on my first tank and its possible just keep on it. As for room, I ran into the same issue on my last tank and ended up with a small cabinet next to my tank that had a 5 gallon jug i used for top off water. Or find look for a slim jug (or build one out of acrylic if you are handy) that might fit in the tank cabinet. The ATO is not necessary especially when you are just starting with fish, it just makes your life a little easier is all. When you get into corals, especially ones, ATO becomes more of a need then a want since stability is the key to success.

As for some of your other original questions; (apologies if someone already answered, I didn't read every post)
The MP pumps are very expensive. They are good but I have a hard time spending that much personally, especially when you get to the 60 series. I think the Jebao pumps are pretty decent for the money. I'm running a wp60 and haven't had any problems with it and it puts out a lot of flow. You might look at the newer RW series, I believe they have a wider flow pattern than the WP.

Dosing pumps: You don't need them at this time. Once you get to the stoney corals and have a decent demand on your chemicals, then you can think about that.

[shesacharmer]

You're getting a lot of great advice here, you are lucky! I bought a 75 gallon used setup that was running and enjoyed the experience (not) of moving it two hours away in May. Like you I had tropical experience but not a lick of salt. It's quite overwhelming between the jargon and the equipment...far more clinical and frankly more work than tropical but far more rewarding too (when you get it right!)

My tank is drilled and came with a sump and a thousand gallon return pump. I washed the old sand in a barrel with freshwater and reused most of it. I probably should have bought new sand. My figi live rock was 10 years in a system without many pests so I got lucky with that...but still came with a few majanos which I dealt with once I figured out what they were.

My sump uses socks, a refugium which has mud and LR and macro algae. My Chaeto refused to live, my Ulva lettuce kept shredding, I was given some Caulerpa Prolifica and that seems to do the best so far. My skimmer kicked the bucket and I replaced it with a reef octopus rated higher than my tank required. It was hard to start but once I got the hang of it I'm happy with it.

I have about 40 coral frags in my tank already and using Instant Ocean reef crystals the only thing I've needed to dose is Magnesium so I check it weekly and use the calculator at Bulk Reef Supply to figure the dose and I add it to the filter socks by hand. Maybe when my corals get bigger I'll need to automate dosing.

My biggest piece of advice is to study quarantine methods and do not skip out on quarantining anything. I'm still struggling to get Ich out of my main display tank and that is a headache you do not want to have, believe me!

I got a pair of 14 gallon barrels that originally held salt (food grade) and I use them to mix my salt water. I just fill the barrels with filtered water and let a powerhead mix them up. Add a heater and a thermometer and you are all set. It's recommended to let the water mix for a day before using it to ensure all crystals are broken down (and it changes the ph over a few hours.) I have a dirty water pump that I take the water out of the dt with and a clean water pump that I use to put water back in. I marked my tank to the level where I removed 14 gallons so I know exactly how much to take out each time. My husband rigged a drain outside the window so I don't have to put the dirty salt water into my septic tank. If you mark your max on and max off water levels on your sump you will know how much to top off and when...you'll also hopefully avoid a flood if the power goes out. Make sure your input line from the sump to display will break siphon prior to overflowing your sump if the power goes out!

You are off to a great start.

[@rmyvet]

Originally Posted by santanzchild

If you dont have much room left under your cabinent you can try using a container like this

7g water jugs or a smaller version.

Thanks Santanzchild I will look into these jugs. I'm amazed how there is always something someone thought of.

[@rmyvet]

Originally Posted by DDon

Yep you need a reservoir for the top off water. I did manual makeup for a couple years on my first tank and its possible just keep on it. As for room, I ran into the same issue on my last tank and ended up with a small cabinet next to my tank that had a 5 gallon jug i used for top off water. Or find look for a slim jug (or build one out of acrylic if you are handy) that might fit in the tank cabinet. The ATO is not necessary especially when you are just starting with fish, it just makes your life a little easier is all. When you get into corals, especially ones, ATO becomes more of a need then a want since stability is the key to success.

As for some of your other original questions; (apologies if someone already answered, I didn't read every post)
The MP pumps are very expensive. They are good but I have a hard time spending that much personally, especially when you get to the 60 series. I think the Jebao pumps are pretty decent for the money. I'm running a wp60 and haven't had any problems with it and it puts out a lot of flow. You might look at the newer RW series, I believe they have a wider flow pattern than the WP.

Dosing pumps: You don't need them at this time. Once you get to the stoney corals and have a decent demand on your chemicals, then you can think about that.

Thanks for the input DDon,
Some folks are just lucky to were they setup the main tank and they have access to the garage. I will look into the extra cabinet lets see if that sits good to my wife. She's the decorator of the house lol. Well I got my first item the jebao RW15 x2. It might be too much for my 90g but I think I can just set it low speed and I'm glad I looked at the posts that mention the RW series. Thank you for your information I will take it all in if my head don't blow up first lol. @rmyvet.

[@rmyvet]

Originally Posted by shesacharmer

You're getting a lot of great advice here, you are lucky! I bought a 75 gallon used setup that was running and enjoyed the experience (not) of moving it two hours away in May. Like you I had tropical experience but not a lick of salt. It's quite overwhelming between the jargon and the equipment...far more clinical and frankly more work than tropical but far more rewarding too (when you get it right!)

My tank is drilled and came with a sump and a thousand gallon return pump. I washed the old sand in a barrel with freshwater and reused most of it. I probably should have bought new sand. My figi live rock was 10 years in a system without many pests so I got lucky with that...but still came with a few majanos which I dealt with once I figured out what they were.

My sump uses socks, a refugium which has mud and LR and macro algae. My Chaeto refused to live, my Ulva lettuce kept shredding, I was given some Caulerpa Prolifica and that seems to do the best so far. My skimmer kicked the bucket and I replaced it with a reef octopus rated higher than my tank required. It was hard to start but once I got the hang of it I'm happy with it.

I have about 40 coral frags in my tank already and using Instant Ocean reef crystals the only thing I've needed to dose is Magnesium so I check it weekly and use the calculator at Bulk Reef Supply to figure the dose and I add it to the filter socks by hand. Maybe when my corals get bigger I'll need to automate dosing.

My biggest piece of advice is to study quarantine methods and do not skip out on quarantining anything. I'm still struggling to get Ich out of my main display tank and that is a headache you do not want to have, believe me!

I got a pair of 14 gallon barrels that originally held salt (food grade) and I use them to mix my salt water. I just fill the barrels with filtered water and let a powerhead mix them up. Add a heater and a thermometer and you are all set. It's recommended to let the water mix for a day before using it to ensure all crystals are broken down (and it changes the ph over a few hours.) I have a dirty water pump that I take the water out of the dt with and a clean water pump that I use to put water back in. I marked my tank to the level where I removed 14 gallons so I know exactly how much to take out each time. My husband rigged a drain outside the window so I don't have to put the dirty salt water into my septic tank. If you mark your max on and max off water levels on your sump you will know how much to top off and when...you'll also hopefully avoid a flood if the power goes out. Make sure your input line from the sump to display will break siphon prior to overflowing your sump if the power goes out!

You are off to a great start.

Thanks Shesacharmer,
Yes I must be a lucky one for advice lol. But if I didn't have this support I would of not even tried. I'm been thinking about this hobby for 6 years and every time I think about it I would think of a excuse not to do it. But yes freshwater is soooo simple 25 so years and never would I even think twice of how to do it just did it. And what I have to invest for everything really blew my mind. Lucky for me I got the 90g aquirium with base for 175 I sand it down and stained it and used plastic dip to spray the back black. I enjoyed do that but when it came to do research of the equipment and how much Happy feeling went away lol. I need to see what I can do about that top tank the mixing and filtered water RO/DI I can do that in the garage I have the room and I read a few people how they mix the salt I think I will do it that why with a pump to transfer good water to the saltwater hold tank. I will read about the quarantine is that a separate tank or can I use the Refugium to quarantine the incoming fish. Thank you so much for the information and your experience in this hobby. I will let all know to see how it go's. Thanks again @rmyvet.

[toothybugs]

While you're sorting out which equipment to get, you can get your live rock started cycling if you want something to do while the details get sorted out. Cycling will only require a tank, saltwater, heater, and a powerhead, so if you can get either your own RODI and salt mix or purchase premade saltwater, you can get started on cycling. It's a lengthy process so you might as well get on it, and it will give you a good few weeks before you need lights. I started my cycling without a sump and just kept the water level below my overflow. I kept the salinity in check with a piece of electrical tape inside the tank so I would know where to top off to, and when you have a sump and all ready to go, you can move the heaters etc down there. Just make some more saltwater up (if not purchasing it premade) to fill the volume and have at it.

I might be repeating previous thoughts here but I just started a tank up myself at the start of the year, and like I KNOW has been said, I bought my equipment in stages. I just wish I would have bought my RODI right away when I got the tank, instead of buying lighting and a skimmer first (which are not needed until you have livestock).

Have fun!

[@rmyvet]

Originally Posted by toothybugs

While you're sorting out which equipment to get, you can get your live rock started cycling if you want something to do while the details get sorted out. Cycling will only require a tank, saltwater, heater, and a powerhead, so if you can get either your own RODI and salt mix or purchase premade saltwater, you can get started on cycling. It's a lengthy process so you might as well get on it, and it will give you a good few weeks before you need lights. I started my cycling without a sump and just kept the water level below my overflow. I kept the salinity in check with a piece of electrical tape inside the tank so I would know where to top off to, and when you have a sump and all ready to go, you can move the heaters etc down there. Just make some more saltwater up (if not purchasing it premade) to fill the volume and have at it.

I might be repeating previous thoughts here but I just started a tank up myself at the start of the year, and like I KNOW has been said, I bought my equipment in stages. I just wish I would have bought my RODI right away when I got the tank, instead of buying lighting and a skimmer first (which are not needed until you have livestock).

Have fun!

Toothybugs,
That's fine the more the merrier I don't think you can get enough information from chat forum because someone might not mention everything at the moment. I didn't think about doing that to the rock first. I will be getting the RODI first just need to find out what I'm going to use for storing the good water and the mix. That's a good idea with the tape so i know were to top off like what Shesacharmer had reply to me in a recent post and you just remind me of it so I'll keep that in mind. I read from MR Saltwater tank that it's not really necssary to have live rock just dead rock will do just because you won't bring into your tank critters that can make your life impossible and that eventually the rock will get its algae and turn to a purple tone in time. So is this true does dead rock exist because I try looking for it online and it just says live rock. And if the dead rock is correct do I have to cycle it as well or is that a step I can bypass. Now is sand just a generic thing or do I have to have a certain sand. Do I have to wash it leave it for day's to cure and when you have rock in the tank and the cycle is finish do I add the sand how does sand come in to play. Thank you for your input every little bit helps a lot. Thanks again. @rmyvet

[Heathcoot]

i think i can offer some advice if you have the money i would recommend

skimmer: vertex omega 150 or omega 180i

lights for tank: ecotech radion gen 2 pro or gen 3 reg because uv is already built in to these cheaper lights would be AI hydras, you could do chinese leds but growth to me is not as great when you go with a good light

sump: ighter buy the biggest one you can fit under your tank 30" 36" long or build one out of a 30 long with you own baffle set up keep in mind skimmer area pre filter and recommend skimmer operation level and refugium size don't make one that you cant move around in to tight is a pain or plumb it to the basement?

power head: 1 mp40 or 2 mp10 tunze is good as well!


refugium light: standard uv light cfl or coil clamp light for efficiency 5500k or 6400k something natural day light

return pump: external or internal aqua medic ocean runner, mag9, or you could do a dc controllable pump but a lot of options on this so look for reliability quality price and power consumption

reactor: vertex 1.5l or even the bulk reef supply duel reactor aquamaxx geo some to pick from

budget the bubble magus curve 7 is decent priced i currently have a reef octopus dcs150 so im not partial hydor korallia atleast 3 of them or jabow wp40x1 or 2x wp10

RO/DI: do not skimp on the qulity of water single most important part of your eco system!

don't buy to much rock off the bat because you may want to get creative with your stacking and do cool overhangs and try and keep as much rock of the sand bed just for better flow though the rock work and you will have the least amount of waste collect around or in the sand this way hope it helps