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08/11/2014, 08:21 PM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Upper Michigan
Posts: 312
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DT cycled no algae yet
This is my first attempt at a saltwater tank, my 90 gallon tank has cycled. I also have a 75 gallon tank I知 using as a sump that has about 30 gallons of water in it.
I致e had the tank cycling for about 45 days, using ACE ammonia, LED lights have been on for about 3 weeks, running the LED痴 about 12 hours daily. Nothing is growing on the dry rocks or sand at this point. I did a 50% water change a few days ago to lower the nitrates, my readings are. I値l do another water change in a day or two to lower the nitrates again. I知 ghost feeding the bacteria daily in the DT. Ammonia 0 Nitrites 0 Nitrates .25 Phosphates 0 For flow I have 2 Tunze 6105痴 Eheim 1262 return pump, LifeReef skimmer also running a Eheim 1262 pump. I知 using RO/DI water, Tunze auto top-off, Tropic Eden Reef Flakes 1 ス to 2 inches deep. 2 Eheim heaters running on a APEX Jr. My question is... I知 ready to order 2 ocellaris clownfish, I値l keep them in a quarantine tank for 30 days at least. My DT has no signs of algae or any life on the dry rock or sand. Should I put anything in the DT now before I add the clownfish when I get them out of quarantine. A CUC crew seems senseless at this point. I知 sure this a subjective question, however I would love to hear some opinions. This is my first build, I知 trying not to make simple mistakes. Thanks for any input... |
08/12/2014, 12:11 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 188
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If your tank is cycled then it is fine to start adding fish to it. LED lights tend to not grow nussince algae like diatoms much. In my 14g biocube, I swapped out the stock bulbs for a current usa led retrofit kit and I rarely had to wipe the glass off because of diatoms. Since you have no phosphates in the system, they wont grow as much or as fast. I just cycled a 40g breeder and it is starting to get diatoms but im using MH running from 12-4pm. I have some blue 455nm leds that Im also using but im runnning those from 8-8pm. The only flow I got in it right now is from my return since 2 of my hydors in my 125g broke, (the impeller in one and the other had a broken cage I guess you can call it lol) so I took appart the one in my 40g to fix the 2 in my 125, so with low flow, im seeing algae build up fast in the 40g breeder.
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08/12/2014, 12:12 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 188
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Oh, and if you do start to see algae in the sand and rocks, then your fine to add a CUC. Just start small and then add as needed since IMO if you add too many and they run out of food, then they will starve and the algae will come back and you need to waist more money on buying more.
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08/12/2014, 05:08 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 7,408
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It sounds like you are doing good. I wouldn't add things that aren't needed. Get your clowns in there and then some cuc. You'll get algae soon enough.
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Brandon I'm not saying let's get rid of all the stupid people.* I'm just saying let's remove all the warning labels and let the problem work itself out. Current Tank Info: 150g DT plumbed to an 80g frag tank and 220g sump in the basement. ~6-MP40s ~ 12 ATI powered t5s ~ Reefbrites and Radions supplementing ~ Custom GEO Skimmer ~ GEO CA Reactor 6x24~ Iwaki 70 Return ~ |
08/12/2014, 07:55 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Upper Michigan
Posts: 312
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Thanks for the input guys. I just wanted to see what other people thought of my build. Being my first tank, even after reading a bunch of threads here I still wasn't sure if I was doing it right. I had never heard of LED's tending not to grow nuisance algae's, great info.
I have Reefledlights LED’s, 2 18" fixtures with Blue, White and the Royal Blue Cree LED's. 25 LED's on each fixture controlled with a APEX Jr. I have the LED's slowly ramp up from 30% to 50% so far. There on for a total of 12 hours. |
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