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08/17/2014, 12:50 PM | #1 |
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bleach to clean aquarium
I had a tank a while back and all my fish ended up dead due to ich. I gave up on having a tank and poured out the water after that happened. My rocks and everything dried up, and I put them outside.
I'm now starting my tank again. I soaked my rocks in a bleach water solution to make sure nothing was still alive on them from having been outside for a year. I now believe that that wasn't the best thing to do because I know the bleach water doesn't get into all of the cracks and crevices deep in the rock. I should have just cooked the rock, but it's too late for that and what's done is done. After letting the rocks soak in bleach I cooked them in the oven at 350 F for 2 hours to drive the bleach off. I then rinsed them thoroughly. I was told that that should have been enough to break the bleach down. I put live sand in my tank, with RODI and salt water mix, and have my rock back in the tank. My ammonia level has spiked, but not the nitrite or nitrate yet (It's only been two weeks since I put it all back in the tank. I'm still worried about the bleach or any contaminate, and just have one quick question here (I don't mean to make this question about sterilizing rock and the best methods to do so). My question is, if there was any remaining bleach in the tank how would that affect the chemistry of the aquarium. By this I mean I have some thoughts as to how I think it would affect the system, and would indicate to me if there was any still in the system, but wanted some insight as to if I'm thinking about this correctly. If there was still bleach in the system, wouldn't it kill all of the bacteria in the system and thus stop the nitrogen cycle? In other words, wouldn't decomposing stuff turn to ammonia as it breaks down and stay as ammonia rather than converting to nitrite because the bacteria wouldn't be able to survive if there was any remaining bleach in the system? Or does bacteria cause the breakdown into ammonia also, in which case, if there was bleach that would kill the bacteria that does that, wouldn't ammonia not even spike? I guess I'm just wondering, if the cycle goes as planned with my ammonia spiking, then going down and nitrite spiking, than nitrate... Wouldn't that mean that the bleach is likely out of the system entirely enough to think it's safe to add fish? If my ammonia spike stays up without going to nitrite would that indicate that bleach residue is still in the system? or would my ammonia have even of spiked if that was the case? Thanks in advance |
08/17/2014, 01:18 PM | #2 |
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I think that bleaching the rock was safe enough, although probably not necessary. I would avoid heating rock from a tank, since that could volatilize toxins from corals and the like, which could be deadly. That seems like a very bad idea.
The bleach will break down on its own fairly quickly once the rock is in water and there's some circulation. I wouldn't worry about it.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
08/17/2014, 01:27 PM | #3 | |
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08/17/2014, 01:43 PM | #4 |
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I think you should be ok, too. how high was ammonia spike & has nitrites registered ANY reading yet? When people talk of 'cooking rock' on here, it's not about literally putting them in oven & cooking. It means putting them in a tub of fresh saltwater w/ a powerhead & let it sit until the rock becomes live rock again. Welcome back & good luck w/ the new set up!
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08/17/2014, 01:53 PM | #5 |
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As you heat the rock, various toxin produced by corals could evaporate and end up in the air. That's a known danger. I haven't heard of anyone recommending baking rock in the oven. The term "cooking" often gets used to refer to curing the rock for a relatively long time in the dark, which I also would avoid. Could you provide some links to threads where people recommend heating rock? I'd like to add some comments to them.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
08/17/2014, 02:31 PM | #6 | |
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My ammonia spiked to .50 ppm, but I have yet to see any spike in nitrite. Hopefully I'll be good to go in a few more weeks. |
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08/17/2014, 02:39 PM | #7 | |
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On a side note, I was also told by a friend to do the same. Although he isn't and has never been into aquariums, he is a biologist and chemist, and he has had terrariums for years with snakes and other reptiles. He said that in the past he has "cooked" wood and other substrate for his tanks through such means as putting everything in a black trash bag and setting it out in the hot sun for a couple weeks to sterilize everything. He also said that heating would drive off the bleach. |
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08/17/2014, 02:40 PM | #8 |
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I soaked my rock in bleach/water then multiple rinses in RODI, you should be fine. I have seen people here suggest using Prime when rock has been bleached.
Bertoni- I'm curious as to why you avoid curing in the dark, I am currently doing this for my next tank. |
08/17/2014, 02:44 PM | #9 |
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I've never liked the term "cooking rock". Sigh!
As far as why I wouldn't cure for an extended period, I don't think it's worthwhile, and the process will tend to reduce the live animal population over time. Curing long enough for the ammonia to disappear should be enough for dealing with organic debris, and some lanthanum chloride or GFO seems to be enough to remove phosphate.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
08/17/2014, 03:28 PM | #10 |
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Agree "cooking rock" can be taken wrong by people new to the hobby, and cause some nasty results. Read a few Palytoxin stories.
Thanks Bertoni, I thought it was the dark that you avoided. Had issues in my 46g, so trying to do my 180g properly. OP- sorry for the hijack |
08/17/2014, 05:23 PM | #11 | |
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08/18/2014, 04:20 PM | #12 |
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If they mentioned to you that the coral potentially had the second most lethal naturally occurring neurotoxin on the planet would you have purchased it?
I'm a survivor and can tell you I will never keep another paly or zoanthid. ____ that!
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08/18/2014, 08:03 PM | #13 | |
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bleach, nitrogen cycle |
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