Rkl problem

[Tomtopping]

My RKL currently turns my heaters on and off every 10 seconds or its reading the temperature between 78.9 and 79.1. Can this be dangerous/damaging to the heater? Ive heard i have the temps to close together but i have no idea how to change that or what that means please help

[Tomtopping]

Any ideas

[ganjero]

Yes it can damage your heater, How do you have it programmed? with the heater function or the controller option?

It looks like you are using the controller function, I would increase the Hysteresis from 0.2 to 1.0 (or at least 0.5)

[Tomtopping]

The heaters are programmed thru the rkl

[Tomtopping]

What are hysteresis sorry Im not 100% used to rkl yet

[ganjero]

Originally Posted by Tomtopping

The heaters are programmed thru the rkl

Lol...I get that, but what type of function did you use to program it within the controller? Heater function or controller function?
Do you have an iTemp probe (the one that looks like a ph probe) or the small one? Do you have the latest software? To use the heater function both of these questions should be yes.

As I posted earlier you are probably using the controller function, check your Hysteresis for the heater.

[Tomtopping]

Yes latest software it was working before I hooked up sl1 I have the proble looks like ph probe I have it set under the heater function both of them I'm running 2 heaters

[ganjero]

Originally Posted by Tomtopping

What are hysteresis sorry Im not 100% used to rkl yet

hysteresis is pretty much the "range" within a particular function will operate. For example if you set the heater at 78.5 with a hysteresis of 1.0 the heater will be on between 77.5 and 79.5, and off outside that range.

Set the heater with at least a 0.5 hysteresis so 78.5 with a hysteresis of0.5 will give a range of 78-79 for on, and off outside that range.

I would suggest reading the manual.
http://www.digitalaquatics.com/downl...rguide_web.pdf

[ganjero]

Originally Posted by Tomtopping

Yes latest software it was working before I hooked up sl1 I have the proble looks like ph probe I have it set under the heater function both of them I'm running 2 heaters

DO you only have one temperature probe? If the heater function keep giving you this issue try setting up the outlet with the controller function as suggested above.

[Tomtopping]

I've followed the steps it tells u to to set the temp I've done that I don't see we're I can choose it to come on or go off I just see temp

[Tomtopping]

K I'll try that sorry I didn't refresh to see your last post

[Tomtopping]

Ok I set them as a controller to come on below 79.0 with a hysteresis of .5 it's probley becuase on running the phone jack temp probe on sl1 maybe now it always worked before I hooked up sl1

[ganjero]

When you hook up the sl1 you have to be careful since it adds a second port for a temp port. When I first hooked up a SL1 it messed up my temp settings and I was all confused.

Using the controller function gives you more control anyways, I'm glad is working now.

[DaveMorris]

Just as a clarification, hysteresis as set in the controller function is split above and below. In other words, if you set you target temp at 76 with a hysteresis of 1.0, the effective range will be 75.5 to 76.5.

[Tomtopping]

I set it at 79 and hysteresis at 0.5 and came back and my temp was 77.4 so i dont know whatnis going on with this thing. When i set it as a controller should i set mode to auto or on?

[ganjero]

Originally Posted by DaveMorris

Just as a clarification, hysteresis as set in the controller function is split above and below. In other words, if you set you target temp at 76 with a hysteresis of 1.0, the effective range will be 75.5 to 76.5.

This is not correct with the RK controllers. The hysteresis is not split, it is added above and below. 76 H=1 the effective range is 75-77.

[ganjero]

Originally Posted by Tomtopping

I set it at 79 and hysteresis at 0.5 and came back and my temp was 77.4 so i dont know whatnis going on with this thing. When i set it as a controller should i set mode to auto or on?

Auto, otherwise it will be on all the time. Make sure you are using the correct temp input as a reference which should be the iTemp in your case. Also select On When "Below". you said you only had on probe correct?

[Tomtopping]

Yeah i have one probe the phone jack one
Mode-auto
Function- controller
Device-itemp
Setpoint-79.0
On when - below
Hysteresis-0.05
In standby-ignore
Default-off
Save

[ganjero]

Which one? If you keep having issues do a factory reset and program everything again. I know it sucks but it can probably help.

[Tomtopping]

The bottom probe looks like ph probe
Ive done factory reset already 2 times updated firmware 2 days ago

[DaveMorris]

Hysteresis should be 0.5, not 0.05. your heater would be clicking on and off constantly at a 0.05 degree hysteresis. The rest of the programming looks correct. Also, there is no difference between the two probes shown, other than the obvious structural difference. An iTemp probe has the RJ-11 jack on it and plugs into the bus port. The regular temp probe has a micro Molex connector on it and plugs into the SL2 or SL1.

[DaveMorris]

Originally Posted by ganjero

This is not correct with the RK controllers. The hysteresis is not split, it is added above and below. 76 H=1 the effective range is 75-77.

I forgot that was changed a while back. The RKL I have been testing with still has an older firmware build on it that was prior to the change. Sorry for the confusion.

[ganjero]

Originally Posted by DaveMorris

Hysteresis should be 0.5, not 0.05. your heater would be clicking on and off constantly at a 0.05 degree hysteresis. The rest of the programming looks correct. Also, there is no difference between the two probes shown, other than the obvious structural difference. An iTemp probe has the RJ-11 jack on it and plugs into the bus port. The regular temp probe has a micro Molex connector on it and plugs into the SL2 or SL1.

There is a difference when programing the rkl...one is recognized as itemp and the other as temp. Also they both can have a rj-11 connector. It is harder to find now a days the small one with the rj connector but still possible. The picture actually shows the small one with the rj11 connector.

How many pc4 do you have?

[DaveMorris]

Originally Posted by ganjero

There is a difference when programing the rkl...one is recognized as itemp and the other as temp. Also they both can have a rj-11 connector. It is harder to find now a days the small one with the rj connector but still possible. The picture actually shows the small one with the rj11 connector.

How many pc4 do you have?

The only difference between temp probes from DA is the connector and where it is plugged in as far as programming or the system recognizing it goes. The form factor was changed from the little nib style to the "ph probe" style because users were reporting that the small probe sometimes would come out of the water. Electronically they are identical and interchangeable. Either style probe, if it has an RJ11 jack on it, can only be utilized as an iTemp probe being plugged into either the bus or a TM4 module. Either style that has the micro Molex connector on it can only be used with an SL1 or SL2 being plugged into the temp port. All that being said, the connectors can be swapped on the probe fairly easily.