How to properly QT a new fish

[mpderksen]

I've always just brought home new additions and put them in. A few times I've drip-acclimated them, but mostly not. While everything has survived (at least initially for a few months), I know I'm playing with fire. I'm about ready to add a few more, and want to do it correctly. I have a spare 20gal, and a small HOB with floss/carbon packs. Should I fill it with water from the DT or use new? Should I add some copper in case of parasites? How long should I keep a new fish in there before transferring? Do I then drip acclimate to the new water before putting it in?

[mpderksen]

Anyone have some input on this?

[blanden.adam]

Glad to see you are taking a solid interest in quarantining! It really is one of the primary things separating those who are successful and love this hobby from the massive number of people who encoumter pest and disease problems and end up deciding it's not worth it, and quit.

This article covers the topic pretty well:http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...ture/index.php

Personally, I am a fan of the bare bottom tank with a heater and sponge filter, maybe a power head, and a weak light only set up when needed. 30 days observation, treating only if I see disease. But that's just my preferred protocol. Other people do things differently and have good success.

[DDon]

Also be sure to check out the QT FAQ thread in the fish disease forum.

You will find a difference in how some do it. I like to do tank transfer on all my new fish as a just in case for ich since it isn't always apparent on the fish. I also treat profilacticly for flukes using prazipro. Then follow up with 3 weeks of observation.
If just doing observation I would do a minimum of 6 weeks. If you go too short you run the risk of missing something. Some stores run a low dose of copper which can mask diseases but not cure them. It may take a number of weeks for these then to show up in your tank.

As far as treating with copper just in case? I don't like to myself. Copper is a poison and I prefer not to expose fish to it if I don't need to. Others do, so it is a personal choice. Some fish are especially sensitive to copper so if you choose to treat make sure you do your research on the fish you are adding.

20 gallon with HOB works fine. I have a small nano powerhead I also use. You may want to keep a sponge or 2 for the HOB in the sump of your display. This way the qt can be ready to go on short notice and sponge is already seeded with bacteria. Also add a few PVC fitting to private the fish a place to hide.
As far as water for QT tank, I usually use new myself.

I check salinity of tank fish will be going into and what they are coming out of to determine if I need to drop acclimate. If they are the same I will float to match temp then add them. If there is a difference I will drip acclimate.

[ca1ore]

Briefly, my own 10 point QT procedure:

1. I keep biomedia in the sump if my display so I can have a cycled QT whenever I need one
2. A 20L with basic light, HoB filter, a heater, powerhead and a few bits of PVC will suffice for most fish
3. Adjust QT salinity to that of incoming fish so that acclimation can be done by floating bag for 15 mins; no drip acclimation needed
4. I use Nitrofuracin green powder initially to ease transition; just one dose
5. Unless a fish is clearly distressed, I do nothing more in terms of treatment until it is eating and swimming normally
6. Most fish I just observe for 2-3 months
7. If a disease presents, treat as appropriate, and then observe for a full month post medication
8. Tangs I do treat prophylactically for parasites with chloroquine phosphate
9. Post QT, I use a socialization box to introduce fish to the display
10. QT is emptied, cleaned with a dilute bleach solution and allowed to dry fully