I need a little help please

[jmowbray]

I'm looking at setting up my 90 gallon and need some help with some decisions. First off this is going to be an SPS and LPS tank. I will have dual plumped returns. As well as a WP-40 that will be running.

The things I need help with are the return pump and skimmer. I'm really not sure how much flow I should have way the return but I know I'm going to need quite a bit as the pump will not just be powering the return lines. I want to run a manifold off the return and still have the ability to dial back the return lines if needed. The manifold will run a turbo twist 36W sterilizer, dual carbon/gfo reactor,as well as a few empty spots for unplanned items (chiller, biopellet reactor, calcium reactor, etc.). That being said I dont want the pump to be to overkill and people sizing it to run a chiller. If I have to run another pump for the chiller so be it. The pump will have to be internal as I don't have room in the stand for an external one. As of now I have been looking at the water blaster pumps but not set on anything ye. however the low electrical pull is always a plus as well as price for the pump.

The next thing on the list is the skimmer. I have been looking at the Skimz brand and really like the look as well as they seem of good quality. Once again I'm not set on a brand though. This will be going in a trigger 30 or 36 Ruby elite (not sure as I have to measure what will fit in my stand) so please keep that skimmer chamber in mind. According to there website it will be either 15.5x11 or 17.5x12.5. Another thing to keep in mind is height. I will have to measure tomorrow but my stand is not very tall so removing the cup may pose a issue with some bands. I would like to over skim a little bit as there will be SPS in the tank and I would like to have more than I have now. The tank is not going to be to overstocked but I currently have two clowns and a purple firefish. I would also like to get a yellow tang, pair of sharknose gobies, a Bartlett's Anthias and DWG and pistol pair. So in my book quite a few smaller fish a one big one. If I have to give up the tang when it increases in size I'm fine with that.


Please feel free to ask me any questions you want and thank you for the help.

Jared

[cherubfish pair]

I have one of these internal Hy-flow pumps like this. PM me if interested.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...6&pcatid=20396

[CuzzA]

Originally Posted by jmowbray

I'm looking at setting up my 90 gallon and need some help with some decisions. First off this is going to be an SPS and LPS tank. I will have dual plumped returns. As well as a WP-40 that will be running.

The things I need help with are the return pump and skimmer. I'm really not sure how much flow I should have way the return but I know I'm going to need quite a bit as the pump will not just be powering the return lines. I want to run a manifold off the return and still have the ability to dial back the return lines if needed. The manifold will run a turbo twist 36W sterilizer, dual carbon/gfo reactor,as well as a few empty spots for unplanned items (chiller, biopellet reactor, calcium reactor, etc.). That being said I dont want the pump to be to overkill and people sizing it to run a chiller. If I have to run another pump for the chiller so be it. The pump will have to be internal as I don't have room in the stand for an external one. As of now I have been looking at the water blaster pumps but not set on anything ye. however the low electrical pull is always a plus as well as price for the pump.

The next thing on the list is the skimmer. I have been looking at the Skimz brand and really like the look as well as they seem of good quality. Once again I'm not set on a brand though. This will be going in a trigger 30 or 36 Ruby elite (not sure as I have to measure what will fit in my stand) so please keep that skimmer chamber in mind. According to there website it will be either 15.5x11 or 17.5x12.5. Another thing to keep in mind is height. I will have to measure tomorrow but my stand is not very tall so removing the cup may pose a issue with some bands. I would like to over skim a little bit as there will be SPS in the tank and I would like to have more than I have now. The tank is not going to be to overstocked but I currently have two clowns and a purple firefish. I would also like to get a yellow tang, pair of sharknose gobies, a Bartlett's Anthias and DWG and pistol pair. So in my book quite a few smaller fish a one big one. If I have to give up the tang when it increases in size I'm fine with that.


Please feel free to ask me any questions you want and thank you for the help.

Jared

As for the return pump just search a retailers website and find the size you're looking for. 10x display turnover is a good rule of thumb. You're going to need to calculate the flow rate for each piece of equipment. It may be easier to simply run a second pump for the manifold. Eheim is one of the staples for our hobby... Quiet, efficient, reliable. I run a 1262 on my 90.

As for the skimmer, BRS does a pretty good job recommending what size skimmer to get based on tank size and bio load. I like my Reef Octopus because it does a good job skimming and you only need about a 1/2 inch clearance to get the cup off. I own a NWB150 with a heavy bio load and pull an inch of skimmate per day. My nitrates have never been over 5 and normally are around 2. I chalk that up to the skimmer and frequent filter sock changes.

I would look at a different UV. The turbo twist design is badly flawed. From third party reviews and tests, it fails to keep consistent spacing inside the chamber which effects dwell time, usually traps air and the best you can expect for it to kill is algae in the water column. It should be suspicious to start with because Coralife has not provided any scientific data or test results about their product. I would look at Emperor Aquatics as they are one of the best out there.

One WP40 likely won't work very well. Remember returns are for transferring water from your sump. Power heads are for moving that water to all areas of the tank. I would consider two WP25's on opposite ends of the tank.

Good luck.

[jmowbray]

Thank you guys so much for the help.

CuzzA the only reason I said the turbotwist is because I already have it. I purchased it a couple of years ago. It will be ran very rarely ran only when algae is an issue and maybe and outbreak of disease. I can also put a ball value on it and dial it way back to increase exposure time.

Thank you so much for the input on the WP-25s. I totally forgot they offered a smaller version.

[jmowbray]

Originally Posted by CuzzA

As for the return pump just search a retailers website and find the size you're looking for. 10x display turnover is a good rule of thumb. You're going to need to calculate the flow rate for each piece of equipment. It may be easier to simply run a second pump for the manifold. Eheim is one of the staples for our hobby... Quiet, efficient, reliable. I run a 1262 on my 90.

As for the skimmer, BRS does a pretty good job recommending what size skimmer to get based on tank size and bio load. I like my Reef Octopus because it does a good job skimming and you only need about a 1/2 inch clearance to get the cup off. I own a NWB150 with a heavy bio load and pull an inch of skimmate per day. My nitrates have never been over 5 and normally are around 2. I chalk that up to the skimmer and frequent filter sock changes.

I would look at a different UV. The turbo twist design is badly flawed. From third party reviews and tests, it fails to keep consistent spacing inside the chamber which effects dwell time, usually traps air and the best you can expect for it to kill is algae in the water column. It should be suspicious to start with because Coralife has not provided any scientific data or test results about their product. I would look at Emperor Aquatics as they are one of the best out there.

One WP40 likely won't work very well. Remember returns are for transferring water from your sump. Power heads are for moving that water to all areas of the tank. I would consider two WP25's on opposite ends of the tank.

Good luck.

Is that NWB150 on your 90?

[CuzzA]

Yes

[jmowbray]

Ok so this is the break down I got:

UV: 400gph
Dual reactor: 300gph
chiller: 400gph
Bio reactor: 300gph

Display 90 x10: 900

For a total of 2300gph. Do those numbers seem logical? I'm thinking of taking off the Bio reactor as the sump will have a refugium and I shouldn't need one.

So approx. 2000gph not including head calculations.

This would be a 1262 for the display and a HY-Drive 1600 for the manifold.

[jmowbray]

OK I have another question on overflows. The sump has to returns and a single line to the refugium. If I do a Gl*******s 1500 it only has two 1.5" drains. Just to make sure one drain will go right to a sock the other will be split to the refugium and the excess will go to the other sock. Is that correct?

[jmowbray]

Ok just got the measurements.

The inside of the stand is 45.5 inches long and can safely fit the trigger ruby 36E but it' not wide enough. The sump needs 18 and the stand is one 16. Therefore, it has to take a 30E.

The stand is only 23 inches tall to the bottom of the tank. CuzzA do you think that I could get that cup off the 150 with that little of space? This seems to be my biggest issue as most skimmers are always at least 22 inches tall.

[CuzzA]

Originally Posted by jmowbray

OK I have another question on overflows. The sump has to returns and a single line to the refugium. If I do a Gl*******s 1500 it only has two 1.5" drains. Just to make sure one drain will go right to a sock the other will be split to the refugium and the excess will go to the other sock. Is that correct?

That should work.

Originally Posted by jmowbray

Ok just got the measurements.

The inside of the stand is 45.5 inches long and can safely fit the trigger ruby 36E but it' not wide enough. The sump needs 18 and the stand is one 16. Therefore, it has to take a 30E.

The stand is only 23 inches tall to the bottom of the tank. CuzzA do you think that I could get that cup off the 150 with that little of space? This seems to be my biggest issue as most skimmers are always at least 22 inches tall.

The NWB 150 is 22.13" tall and requires 1/2" clearance to remove the cup. So it should work as long as you don't have to raise the skimmer to correct the water height. I run mine at 6" so the output is not submerged. You could run it deeper but unless you extend the output above the water line it won't be as efficient. Also, you need to account for the thickness of the bottom of the sump.

[jmowbray]

Originally Posted by CuzzA

The NWB 150 is 22.13" tall and requires 1/2" clearance to remove the cup. So it should work as long as you don't have to raise the skimmer to correct the water height. I run mine at 6" so the output is not submerged. You could run it deeper but unless you extend the output above the water line it won't be as efficient. Also, you need to account for the thickness of the bottom of the sump.

That is exactly what I'm afraid of. The bottom of the stand has 1/2 plywood in it. If I take that off and put a small thin sheet of louon I should be able to get that half an inch plus 1/2-3/4(the thickness of the stand bottom). Here are some pictures of what I'm taking about.

[jmowbray]

Here's the tank:

[truetricia]

I have a 90g and I'm adding a 3rd power head. I think between rock work and all it's hard to get good SPS flow without a third.

I also love the avast skimmer although I have a gsm skimmer that's treated for 200g. I love it.

[jmowbray]

Originally Posted by truetricia

I have a 90g and I'm adding a 3rd power head. I think between rock work and all it's hard to get good SPS flow without a third.

I also love the avast skimmer although I have a gsm skimmer that's treated for 200g. I love it.

What kind of powerheads are you running?

[jmowbray]

Well this is my some what final plan.

Trigger Ruby 30E Sump
SWC extreme 160 skimmer
2 Jebao RW-8 powerheads
1262 Display flow
HY-Drive1600 Manifold

[Sk8r]

Rather than a uv, you can also use a GFO reactor to do for the excess phosphate in your water. You can also remove it when it's done its work.

[CuzzA]

Originally Posted by Sk8r

Rather than a uv, you can also use a GFO reactor to do for the excess phosphate in your water. You can also remove it when it's done its work.

A UV and running GFO have two completely different purposes.

The science behind the UV is for germicidal reduction via sterilization of harmful parasites, pathogens, protozoa, etc. A well built proven UV like Emperor Aquatics, matched with the proper dose of water i.e. flow rate, will keep these harmful creatures from excessively reproducing in our small closed systems.

I agree with Sk8r, however, you should seriously consider adding a GFO and GAC reactor to your manifold. Especially if you use dry rock. I have used the BRS dual reactor since the day water hit my tank. I'm confident in saying, beside my husbandry practices, that piece of equipment is the reason I have yet to experience any nuisance algae or cyanobacteria, etc. since my tank has been running for the past 8 months. Not a signal trace of nuisance algae. None, nil, zip. Continuous use will also pull dissolved organics and phosphates that you are constantly adding to the system via food and water changes from most salt mixes.

[jmowbray]

Sorry I should have stated that there will be a GFO carbon reactor in the manifold. I already run the BRS dual reactor on my current 20L tank.

[jmowbray]

Need some more help. I want to drill the tank for overflow and returns. What size return lines should I run 1/2inch or 3/4?

[CuzzA]

If it were my tank, I'd drill 3 1" holes in the center back pane to install a ghost overflow with a beananimal drain system. Then I'd just run the returns up and over the glass. More fittings means less flow. If you really want to drill the return lines as well, then I would drill 2 3/4" in holes on either side of the tank. But remember, every time you put bit to glass, you risk breaking it and too many holes can increase the chances of failure. I'm not 100%, but I believe the safe minimum distance between holes or the edge of glass is 3". Don't hold me to that.

Note: The actual hole size will be larger to accommodate the bulkhead.

[CuzzA]

Double post.