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01/08/2015, 09:22 AM | #1 |
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Tank not level and incorrectly shimmed?
Before installing a new tank about a month ago, I did my best to ensure it was level using shims; however, despite using a level, the tank as it stands is now not level.
It's not a big difference, about h alf a centimeter, and is equal on each side (so no one corner has under stress). From what I have been reading, this isn't enough to cause a problem, but I would like to be sure. I am also concerned that I may not have shimmed my tank correctly, and have been worried after reading numerous comments about how unsafe an improperly shimmed tank is. I used enough shims to make the tank level (or so I thought at the time), however this means I have 3 shims under one corner, and just half of one shim under another, with one whole shim under the other two corners. In this configuration it doesn't wobble and is mostly level, but I am concerned if this is a dangerous setup. I would appreciate any advice or reassurance, thank you. |
01/08/2015, 09:41 AM | #2 | |
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You could compensate the visible waterline by raising the water level a bit IF you have room.
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Mike My 120 Build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2389417 Current Tank Info: 120g In-Wall | BA Overflow | 55g Sump | SWC Extreme 150 Skimmer | DIY ATO | 2 Jebao RW-8| Fluval SP6 | Photon 48v2 LED | GFO and Carbon |
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01/08/2015, 10:27 AM | #3 |
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Despite what many say, I don't believe shimming a stand is the correct way to fix these problems. The pressure that the structure takes at the edges of the shims, where it's no longer supported is extreme and you may actually break the stand in those spots. CAVEAT: I am no structural engineer. However an experienced furniture maker agreed with me. The only real solution is to level the ground under the stand and the second best alternative is to let the tank sit on a straight stand. Shims should only be used to stabilize the stand and not to support it like in your case... Just my humble opinion of course.
In fact, a drop on the water line is not necessarily an alarm sign. It's better to have a dropping water line that a stand thats not touching the floor on the majority of its base |
01/08/2015, 10:54 AM | #4 |
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IMHO you are close to done shimming. To be totally correct you should add as many shims as possible around the perimeter of the stand to give it as much support as possible.
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I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer |
01/08/2015, 11:01 AM | #5 | |
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01/08/2015, 12:45 PM | #6 |
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The best method would be to shim, measure heights across floor, and plane a piece of wood to the right angle to support entire stand. Shimming in only the corners for a stand built to have the entire edge ont he ground causes stress at break points that could be a potential problem down the line.
At a bare minimum ensure you are using quality shims that will not compress and go around the entire base adding shims to disperse the weight across your entire stand and floor. There is a lot of weight from fish tanks and you do not want hundreds of pounds pressing on a very small footprint. |
01/08/2015, 02:02 PM | #7 |
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I'm using these shims: http://www.amazon.com/Ez-Shim-Heavy-...keywords=shims
They seemed pretty solid. My concern was that I only have a square inch of a shim under a corner with two whole shims under another...it seemed pretty unequal. The next time I have my tank emptied I will add in more shims.., but it should be ok like this for the next year or so, if it's ok now. Thank you all. |
01/08/2015, 02:07 PM | #8 |
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I would still slide shims in the remainder of the open space so that you do not have all the weight on those couple shims. Disperse the weight onto more shims. You wouldnt have to empty the tank or adjust anything to do that for now...
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01/08/2015, 02:08 PM | #9 | |
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01/08/2015, 02:28 PM | #10 |
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your tank is full of water. You shouldnt make it unstable pushing in shims to displace the weight across the entire bottom of your stand.
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01/08/2015, 02:30 PM | #11 |
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01/11/2015, 10:40 PM | #12 |
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I just got done replacing two properly shimmed prefab stands. Some of the cheaper stands can fail structurally in less than a month when shimmed. Keep an eye on it. You may notice gaps or warping of the wood near where you shimmed.
Well built stands should shim no problem. I have hard wood floors that are uneven on both axis.... So I may be an extreme case. Congrats on the tank! |
02/18/2015, 01:50 AM | #13 | |
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Still trying to figure out what to do to solve it at the moment, what would you advise? |
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02/18/2015, 08:11 AM | #14 |
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like has been said in this thread by only putting those few shims and not putting something under the remainder of the tank you are now dealing with the flex in the cheaper wood. It is meant for the entire base to be on something solid to avoid the flex and warping.
Edited this since you posted in another thread that you did shim most of the base with the exception of this area as it was seemingly flush with the floor. In my mind you have two options: 1. You plane a piece of wood to account for the uneven floor and sit the tank and stand on that. This base should be same footprint of stand and thus you would not have to worry about shims or contact. You would still need to look at the warped piece of (probably) mdf to see if the structure has been compromised. You could brace it. 2. I would simply build a new stand. You are looking at around $150 in materials and a saturday worth of work for a basic stand with 2 doors. More time is needed if you want fancy trim, staining, or such. You would still want a base to account for the floor but by building your own you would know for sure how sound it is. Last edited by soulpatch; 02/18/2015 at 08:21 AM. |
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