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01/09/2015, 10:35 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Oregon
Posts: 93
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Some advice please
First ide like to thank you all for the advice and help you give!
I have had a salt tank now for about a year, biocube29gallon. Love the hobby, and I am continuing to learn things almost daily- Here is where the advice comes in: my neighbor just gave me a new tank-it's, I believe a 45 gallon pentagon tank.....with my current tank I don't have a sump, per sae-and I get the feeling there is a split between yes or no- So, for a gal who has NO experience in cutting class, and although I can replace a faucet my knowledge of plumbing is minimal.....so with that how would you go about setting this sucker up? I currently run a tunze 9002 skimmer. Not 100% thrilled with it as its noisy but it does the job. I've read it's ok for up to 55 gallon? Yes or no? I have the intank 3 Collum in the biocube for my filtration-not transferable. Would you put a top on the tank or leave it open with just lights? AND lastly....how in the world do you mix THAT much salt water? I've been spoiled with 5 gallons only at a time :-) Thanks everyone |
01/09/2015, 10:41 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Downingtown, PA
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you can take the tank to a local glass shop to have the holes cut if you chose to go that route. I have had quite a few done for my freshwater already.
And I would recomend a sump all the way. once drilled plumbing is easy. Drain into sump and return line to tank. One way for water changes I have done with my larger FW tanks is to have a small trashcan on wheels. I roll it to the tank I need to refil and pump the water with a small pump into my DT. This way I can heat the water to the same temp, treat it, add in any suppliments, and whatever else I need. |
01/09/2015, 10:48 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lansdale, PA
Posts: 128
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I agree with soulpatch 100%. Drilling glass isn't something you just try, LFS or glass places have tons of experience doing this. Sumps just make your life a lot easier when doing any work to the system. Plus it gives you ways to add or tweak things to your system
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01/09/2015, 10:51 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Oregon
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So how BIG of a sump do you get for that size of a tank? Ive seen sumps categorized as an actual sump on like bulk reef supply and I've also heard people use just fish tanks for their sumps....
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01/09/2015, 10:55 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Downingtown, PA
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you can use a fish tank but you need to make the baffles. Much cheaper then buying a prebuilt one and allows you to set it up exactly like you want with space for your equipment.
That said prebuilt ones are great to get started and will last for years until you outgrow them or find the need for more equipment. |
01/09/2015, 10:55 AM | #6 |
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Location: Lansdale, PA
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Personally I'd go as big as you have the room for, the more water in the system the better. You also should consider what you want to add and be sure to leave some room for equipment. I have always used fish tanks for sumps, I have had glass places cut me panels that I siliconed into place to make my baffles.
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01/09/2015, 10:57 AM | #7 |
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01/09/2015, 10:58 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Oregon
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oh my. Ok so Im sorry for all the questions. I knew this would be a bit of a project: So in the back of my biocube I have 3 chambers: The first is where my heater is, the second my filtration/skimmer/3rd my pump:
Im assuming this is a a transferable idea to the sump? What DO you put in a sump? Ive heard of live rock/sand? |
01/09/2015, 10:59 AM | #9 | |
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Location: Downingtown, PA
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Quote:
Check valves are your friend when setting up the plumbing. And check power outage scenario to ensure that you have enough space in your sump to handle the water draining into it when the power cuts to your return pump. |
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01/09/2015, 11:08 AM | #10 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lansdale, PA
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Well, if you are considering using the 45 as your main tank, then have the water gravity drain into the sump. You can attach a filter sock here if you feel so inclined. I use them when I am cleaning to catch any debris, then take it off after about a day. The skimmer usually goes in the first baffled compartment. If you have the room in the sump tank, then live rock (basically, the more rock, the more natural filtration). In that section you can have sand, rock and macro algae.
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01/09/2015, 11:09 AM | #11 |
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Location: Tujunga, CA
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You don't *have* to put live rock or anything in the sump, if you don't have room it's not going to break anything. The sump is basically a place to house your equipment and yes, it follows the same principle as the chambers in the Biocube; water comes in, gets skimmed and heated, then pumped back to the tank.
With a bigger tank you will probably want to start looking into an auto top-off system. You can easily make your sump out of a glass aquarium (see if Petco is still having their $1/gallon sale). I have a 20-gallon long as the sump on my 65g. It's split into 3 sections; the water comes down from the tank into the first chamber with a skimmer and the heater, then goes to the middle chamber with the return pump which sends most of it back to the tank and some of it to the third chamber, a refugium. The water from the refugium overflows back into the return chamber. I have a top-off system to keep the water level constant in the return chamber. My refugium has some live rock and macroalgae, but it's more to have a space to put things in a pinch and to help with pod production. I also went from a Biocube 29 to the 65g. It took me a couple of months of research, planning, and building. Although I probably could have tackled it myself I opted to pay my LFS to do the plumbing (including a manifold for future expansion) and bring the water for the initial fill. I think they charged me $180 and it was worth it to have someone experienced set it up. Now that I've seen it done and have gotten used to the way the tank works I'm sure I could do it myself next time. You may be able to find an experienced reefer in your area to help, too! |
01/09/2015, 11:10 AM | #12 |
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Location: Lansdale, PA
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Soul patch is right on again (go get your wife). Ball valves should be added to every part that you can put them in. That way you can isolate any part of your system that you need to work on or replace.
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01/09/2015, 11:21 AM | #13 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Oregon
Posts: 93
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Thanks everyone. I was thinking of contacting a LFS to see if they can help set up- one of the biggest challenges is the new tank is going in the EXACT place as my existing tank. AND there is going to need to be some drilling for access points into the below cabinet for the sump and plumbing (its a custom cabinet). Seems like I have lots of planning to do-ahhh fun.
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