QT Questions ...

[Goldndoodle]

I read a thread today about Mandarins. In it, it said that Mandys should not be QTed for the following reasons -

1) Their diet - almost impossible to maintain while in QT
2) Their thick slime coat severely minimized the chances of a Mandy getting or carrying ICK

Are there other fish that should not be QTed?

Is every fish susceptible to ICK?

Is every fish a potential carrier of ICK?

[FraggledRock]

Inverts can even carry ich. But not be affected. Corals too ;( pretty much anything wet...

[thegrun]

Use the tank transfer method with Mandarins and feed it pods during the process. They rarely contract ich due to their thick slime coat, but they can carry it and infect other fish.

[Goldndoodle]

I just bought a 20G long from the Petco $1/G sale to use as my QT, as well as items that are dedicated to this tank - a small Fluval HOB filter, heater, thermometer, PVC pieces and a small LED light. Still need to pick up an air pump for oxygenation for it.

To correctly perform TTM - I need another set of everything above?

As I'm understanding it, the point of the process is to let everything that was in Tank 1 completely dry out / sterilize while Tank 2 is up and running. Just as nothing goes from QT to DT, nothing should go from QT1 to QT2?

[Indymann99]

here is a good thread on TTM

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1996525

[Nina51]

Originally Posted by Goldndoodle

nothing should go from QT1 to QT2?

correct, unless it is 100% dry. it's pretty inexpensive to have 2 of everything and you don't really need any sort of hob filter because the fish isn't in the tank long enough to create a lot of waste. you can always use prime and/or do a simple 1-2 gallon water change every day. an air stone will give you enough circulation/water movement for oxygenation. just get the little cheap ones and toss them after each transfer and also toss the airline tubing you use.

[Goldndoodle]

Originally Posted by Nina51

correct, unless it is 100% dry. it's pretty inexpensive to have 2 of everything and you don't really need any sort of hob filter because the fish isn't in the tank long enough to create a lot of waste. you can always use prime and/or do a simple 1-2 gallon water change every day. an air stone will give you enough circulation/water movement for oxygenation. just get the little cheap ones and toss them after each transfer and also toss the airline tubing you use.

I have a couple of small RIO pumps lying around that I used to use to mix water in a 5 gallon bucket for my nanoCube - I'm thinking about using those for circulation in the QTs as well.

So no need for a second HOB filter - just keep the one I have in case I ever need to setup a long run Hospital Tank?

I plan to keep fish in QT for an additional 1 - 2 weeks after TTM - use the HOB then?

For sterilization ... drain water, refill with warm tap water, add a cup of bleach, let everything circulate for a few hours with the heater turned up, drain it, rinse it, wipe it down, let everything dry?

[gone fishin]

Originally Posted by Goldndoodle

I have a couple of small RIO pumps lying around that I used to use to mix water in a 5 gallon bucket for my nanoCube - I'm thinking about using those for circulation in the QTs as well.

So no need for a second HOB filter - just keep the one I have in case I ever need to setup a long run Hospital Tank?

I plan to keep fish in QT for an additional 1 - 2 weeks after TTM - use the HOB then?

For sterilization ... drain water, refill with warm tap water, add a cup of bleach, let everything circulate for a few hours with the heater turned up, drain it, rinse it, wipe it down, let everything dry?

In my main QT I use a couple old koralia's for some circulation. I also use a seachem ammonia alert badge on the tank. once the critters get to my QT after TTM I do 2 rounds of prazipro and keep them in QT for 4 weeks.

For the sterilization what you listed is pretty much how I do it.

Once you do the routine once you will see how easy it is. When getting the goods for TTM walmart was my friend here. I also found a square colander works pretty well getting the fish from one tank to the other. When I am all done I put any loose stuff in a 5g bucket marked QT stuff so I do not inadvertently use it on the DT.

[Goldndoodle]

I already stole your 5g bucket idea - and took it a step further - anything that has to do with QT has a stripe of red electrical tape on it in an area where I'll see it - so electrical things have it on the plugs, tubing near the ends, the QT 5g bucket right around the middle, etc.

I need things laid out in timelines … so TTM boils down to this -

Day 1 - transfer, or add, fish to be QTed
Day 2 - mix saltwater for next tank
Day 3 - add water to next tank and stabilize system (temp & salinity)
Day 4 - transfer fish to next tank and sterilize current tank
Day 5 - go back to Day 2 and repeat 2 more times

[gone fishin]

that about sums it up. Only thing is transfer on the third day for a total of four transfers. I have a mixing station so I mix up all my water at once. I also use 2 10g for the transfer tanks.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2388428

[Goldndoodle]

That was going to be my next question ...

PetsMart has either a 20g long for $20 ($1/g) or 10g tanks for $10 (again $1/g). Since I need another tank anyway, I cold get two 10g tanks, instead of a second 20g tank.

As I am only planning to purchase 1 fish per month - that means only 1 fish in TTM at a time. And I'm not planning to buy full sized fish, just small and let them grow. So would two 10g tanks make more sense?

I could use the 20g long tank I current have as the follow up observation tank, after TTM. Or as a Hospital Tank if something got sick later on.

[gone fishin]

That is what I have done. I use the 2 10's for TTM and I had an old 30 sitting around and I used that for the QT/HT. I also like to buy fishes small and watch them grow and sometimes go through their color morphs. I found it also kept me from impulse buying, which can end in disaster for us and the fish.

[morleyz]

I use 2 10 gallons for TTM as well, and since I have only done small fish, I actually only fill them about 7 gallons worth. Saves a little $ on the saltwater during TTM and they're in there so little time I haven't had a problem with ammonia.

[Mishri]

Originally Posted by Nina51

correct, unless it is 100% dry. it's pretty inexpensive to have 2 of everything and you don't really need any sort of hob filter because the fish isn't in the tank long enough to create a lot of waste. you can always use prime and/or do a simple 1-2 gallon water change every day. an air stone will give you enough circulation/water movement for oxygenation. just get the little cheap ones and toss them after each transfer and also toss the airline tubing you use.

Toss perfectly good things? Someone didn't live during the great depression.

-seriously though.. if you let it dry out why not keep it? Those things can last years.

@ the bleach thing: ICH cannot survive in a dry condition, sterilizing things is a bit excessive. But if it makes people feel better they can do it, I wont.

[Goldndoodle]

Looks like I'll be building a stand to hold two 10g tanks out of 2x4s tonight.

Maybe I should build a double decker - the two 10g tanks topside, the 20g long underneath ...

[gone fishin]

Just make sure they are easily accessible.

[Goldndoodle]

Originally Posted by gone fishin

Just make sure they are easily accessible.

Good point - maybe a stand to hold two 10g tanks and a 20g long all in a line then!

[gone fishin]

My 30 QT stays on its stand. I have an old small kitchen table in my fishroom that I keep test kits, food, and miscellaneous things. When I do TT I use the table, when done the tanks go back in the closet. comes in handy for fragging or attaching new corals to some rock.

[Goldndoodle]

My storage / mixing station is in my unfinished basement. Probably where the TTM tanks and QT will be as well. I had to insulate the 20g long tank with 1" foam board, in order to get it up to temp when I wet tested it, so I'm planning to insulate the 10g tanks too.

The shelving / bench I've been using for the last 14 months for my nanoCube is starting to feel a little small for the needs of the larger tank. 5 gallon mix buckets for the nanoCube are now 32 gallon Brute barrels for the new setup. It might be time to upgrade some of the shelving, and the workbench, while I'm building the tank stands. Better than putting the 20g long underneath the 10g tanks, would be having enough room to store the mix Brute barrel, and waste Brute barrel under all 3 of them!

That's what really amazes people when I talk about this hobby to them ... they never think you need plumbing and carpentry skills to be in the hobby!

EDIT - Even better than building a stand ... Lowes Workbench Plenty of work space, and the Brute barrels will fit underneath! SOLD!

[gone fishin]

LOL it is a bit of being a biologist, chemist, engineer, plumber, carpenter, electrician I probably forgot a few.

[dbl]

Originally Posted by gone fishin

LOL it is a bit of being a biologist, chemist, engineer, plumber, carpenter, electrician I probably forgot a few.

I think you forgot "Financial Planner".

And thanks to all for the detailed explanation. Been needing to set up a QT system and this certainly helps.

[Nina51]

Also be aware that your ttyl tanks should be far enough apart to avoid any sort of cross contamination. My procedure is pretty much identical to Tony's.

Originally Posted by Mishri

Toss perfectly good things? Someone didn't live during the great depression.

-seriously though.. if you let it dry out why not keep it? Those things can last years.

@ the bleach thing: ICH cannot survive in a dry condition, sterilizing things is a bit excessive. But if it makes people feel better they can do it, I wont.

take whatever chances you wish.

[Goldndoodle]

I know that a Mandy is incredibly tough to QT - it is on my list of fish for the new tank, but is last on my list. I am going to wait until the tank is matured for at least a year before buying and placing a Mandy.

The tests this morning on the tank cycle showed 0 ammonia, and Nitrites dropping quickly. I should be dosing ammonia up to 2 mg/L tomorrow to start testing to make sure the system will remove ammonia and nitrites within 24 hours. I'm hoping that it will be ready to start adding livestock within a week or so. It's time to get a fish going in TTM this weekend, in preparation for adding it to the new tank in about a month or so.

I've already posted my fish-wish-list on snorvich's thread, he has reviewed and did not see any issues. The list is probably very similar to what everyone has / does - reef safe, friendly fish - Kole Tang, Anthias, Cardinalfish, Royal Gramma, Citrinis Clown Goby, McCosker's Wrasse, Diamond Watchman Gody & a Mandarin.

Which of these is the hardiest / easiest to TTM? I'd like to start with something easy until I get used to this method.

Does there appear to be an obvious (to everyone else) order to adding those fish to the system? Are there some that should be introduced before others? If so, why?

[Goldndoodle]

Originally Posted by Nina51

Also be aware that your ttyl tanks should be far enough apart to avoid any sort of cross contamination.

How far apart?

I was planning on buying a 6' workbench to put the TTM tanks and QT tank on. Looks like between the 3 tanks, I've got 70" of length going on a 72" long bench - max 1" apart.

If I had to, I could turn the tanks sideways, reducing the length to 32" on a 72" long bench - max 20" apart.

Or ... keep the QT on the current smaller workbench on the other side of some shelves, and I could space the TTM tanks 32" apart max.

[gone fishin]

First time around I would go with either the gramma or cardinal. Both are pretty hardy IMO. Just food for future thought look into a pink margin fairy wrasse. Mine came out of QT a week or so ago. beautiful color and very mellow. Good luck