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01/30/2015, 11:44 AM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3
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Red Slime
Hi All,
I'm fairly new to salt water tanks. I have a 40g LRFO tank for about 9 months. During all that time I can't seem to completely get rid of red slime. I've bought specific water treatments for the red slime, which work for a week or so and then it's back and I have to dose it again. I do a water change every two weeks, normally 10 gallons. When I test I never have any nitrate, nitrite or ammonia. I think I must be missing something that causes this because it's so frequent and never ending. Oh, and I use RO water as well. Does anyone have any suggestions for getting rid of this permently? I understand flair ups happen once in a while but this just seem out of control. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. |
01/30/2015, 11:56 AM | #2 |
RC Mod
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It's called cyanobacteria and it's sort of a normal stage tanks go through, and it may recur during the year after as the sun moves in its annual course and sunlight gets to your tank. Look it up on the internet---it's neat stuff.
It doesn't do real harm except as it cuts off light from corals. Probably the worst thing you can do is repeatedly add things to kill it. They can adversely affect the microlife in your tank, which are what generally clean up the dieoff. I'd advise just putting the tank on room lights only for 3 days once a month and adjusting (tuning) your skimmer to maximum efficiency. A potent skimmer does help export the results of the dieoff. Otherwise, the surviving cells just suck up the nutrient and prosper again the next day. With a fish-only the principle problem with this stuff is cosmetic---and the best way to deal with it is exactly as you're doing with the water changes. Add the lights-out treatment, and as aforesaid, the skimmer. If you're using only a cannister, it may be necessary to get more aggressive with the water changes. And do a water change directly after the 3-day lights-out, which will also help.
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
01/30/2015, 12:08 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3
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Thanks! I do have a skimmer as well as a canister on it. The skimmer is older though and seems to get a lot of clear water in it. It might be time for a new one. We did want to start adding corals at some point so clearing this up is important.
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01/30/2015, 12:36 PM | #4 |
RC Mod
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Get a skimmer rated for about 2x the water volume of your system unless you spring for one of the higher end ones that are a bit more accurate (my personal opinion) in their estimates of efficiency. I'd go online and look at YouTube of these various skimmers in action. A LOT of froth is more efficient.
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
01/31/2015, 06:22 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Wesley Chapel FL
Posts: 751
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Cyano
How is your PO4? Quite a few threads target high PO4 levels as a stimulus for cyano and recommend GFO use to help export PO4.
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Jimbo 13.5G EVO |
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