BRS Tested Some Carbon Blocks: I'm Testing Them, You Should Too.

[tkeracer619]

If you haven't seen this video BRS published and your municipal water supply uses chloramines you may find it interesting. I constantly battle chloramines. After moving the tank into my new home the carbon blocks exhausted rapidly caatching me off guard, killing an amazing tank in 4 days. It's still something I test twice every time I operate my RO.



In my particular situation I was able to get chloramine breakthrough after a short period even though I was using 2 chloramine blocks and a .5 micron block. On the advice of a local water supplier I removed my booster pump. I went from .5gpm to .17gpm. After 10 minutes there were no detectable chloramines getting through. I will likely be adding a whole house style system in front of my rodi but before I make that decision I want to give all of these different filters I have tried a fair shot with the lower flow, and this time I am going to publish it here.

I would like to see your results as well so if anyone wants to add to the thread feel free. Which one is the best? I'm pretty sure I already know who my winner and losers will be but there may be some surprises.

I'm not entirely sure the format we should use but I plan on changing all of the blocks at the same time. When it is time for a filter change I will swap out the first carbon block with one of the many different chloramine blocks available. If you want in on this "experiment" which is surely to be as fun as watching painted grass grow lets see if we can come up with something useful.

This is what I have now...
1).5 micron sediment (Spectrapure)
2)1 micron Chloraguard (Buckeye Hydro)
3)1 micron Chlorplus (Spectrapure)
4).5 micron carbon block (Spectrapure)

[Breadman03]

Something like a 20" carbon block may provide good results by allowing longer contact time with higher flow rate.

20 inch housing

20" Spectrapure carbon block

[asonitez]

My Water is Crystal Clear. My Sand is Pristine White. My corals and snail... tend to look like they are barely holding on. I do water changes every week and I'm dosing everything to perfection. I have thousands in equipment.

I am not successful because of chloramines. Chloramines is never something I actually considered to be a major issue for me. I mean in my old apt I had low TDS and in my new apt I have even lower tds. I also make and mix/gas my RO water in a large container before using in my reef. I THOUGHT my carbon blocks were taking care of chloramines and chlorine. WELL.....

After viewing the BRS video I immediately picked up a Lamotte test on the way home and tested. It turned purple so fast I almost fainted. My wife said my face looked as if I was told my dog died and got kicked in the stomach at the same time. I ordered the BRS ultra system for 309 shipped almost immediately.

There is something I was pleasantly surprised with! I owned a PureWaterClub R/O system that I thought was sufficient but after getting the BRS system I was clearly mistaken. The BRS system trumps the PWC stuff in every way (including cost...lol.)

4 Massive water changes. Spread 1 week apart and over 250 Gallons changed... My tank and the corals made such a bounce back that I'm wondering if I had chloramines in my OLD apt that never made me as successful as I could be. My DI resin and carbon blocks are holding but I did get together with a few friends and purchased an entire case of carbon blocks that brough the price down significantly.


I'm running
Sediment
BRS CARBON/CHLORAMINE 1 micron
BRS CARBON/CHLORAMINE 1 micron
75 GPD
75GPD Water Saver
DI Resin 1
DI Resin 2
Carbon (for Drinking) <<-- Will probably last forever.

[tkeracer619]

I bet a bunch of people out there are dealing with this and don't realize it.

[MMM33732]

Can you simply use a dechlor like freshwater setups usually add to tap water to remove/detoxify any chloramines left in RODI water?

[DogueDeBordeaux]

tkeracer619

How did you have the booster pump plumbed?
Was it in between the last canister filter and membrane?
Or, feeding from water supply to first canister (sediment filter).

I am do for a filter/membrane change.
I was also thinking about adding a booster pump. I thought the booster was going to result in better quality and water production.

It would be nice to know how the spectrapure carbon would do compared to the BRS universal carbon.

[mordibv]

Sorry it happened to you. I asked on this forum and another about this subject recently . The RO/DI person never answered the question but stated he'd written/ 2500 posts and I should search for the answer . I think the test strips are a good way to check.
I ran a 7 stage unit with 2 sediment ,1 0.5 carbon block ,1 CC carbon cart,75 GPD RO ,to 2 Di units . I never had any issues that I am aware of . I changed my filters quicker than most ppl every 3 months and I only made water every two weeks . I never made than 30 gallons per 2 weeks .It is a interesting subject . I was under the impression as long as the carbon breaks the bond the ammonia turns into a gas hence no worries . I guess the issue is breaking the bond . I have also read others stating they always used prime after ro/di product water with no ill effects.I donated this unit to a noob reefer so I need to get another unit . I am pretty sure I know what brand it won't be .

Here was my slapped together unit . One was a maxima unit and one was a di unit .

[tkeracer619]

Originally Posted by DogueDeBordeaux

tkeracer619

How did you have the booster pump plumbed?

I had it between the sediment and the first carbon block. If you have chloramines a booster pump isn't an option unless you are seriously lacking in water pressure. I may have lost .5% rejection on my 99% membrane after removing the pump (it's still 99%).

Spectrapure has an awesome deal running right now on their chloramine system. If you go that route order it with the 99% membrane. Sucks someone told you that. For some reason this is something few companies want to address. I am sure they get tired of the same questions over and over but that is what happens when you don't put real data out there. The marketing surrounding this is silly. It really shouldn't be that difficult.

[shermanator]

Couldn't you put the booster after the carbon blocks and before the membrane? You could even put a pressure tank between the carbon filters and the pump to make sure you have adequate post-filter water to keep up with the pump's demand.

I don't have chloramines (I have a well which has it's own problems...), but doesn't sparging help with chloramines? You could collect a trash can full of RO water, sparge with a venturi pump (or airstone) and then pump it to your DI canisters. I do something like that due to super high CO2 levels.

[tkeracer619]

I don't think there is a difference where you put it, it's going to push more water decreasing contact time.

[Raul-7]

I will be testing out UV to eliminate chloramines.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2482721

I'll let you know how it works out.

[shermanator]

Have you considered thiosulfate addition to your water source (prior to RO)? Of course, it would require collecting water and would make any automation difficult.

[tkeracer619]

Originally Posted by Raul-7

I will be testing out UV to eliminate chloramines.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2482721

I'll let you know how it works out.

I'm already following along on that one

Originally Posted by shermanator

Have you considered thiosulfate addition to your water source (prior to RO)? Of course, it would require collecting water and would make any automation difficult.

Nah, but I will look into it. I have a 130gal ace roto-mold tank that isn't in use and I could fit it in the room. I was thinking of just using it to increase water temp. I'm also not sure how quick the gasses come out of solution. I could run my ro for about 12 hours on that amount of water.

[mirkus]

Originally Posted by MMM33732

Can you simply use a dechlor like freshwater setups usually add to tap water to remove/detoxify any chloramines left in RODI water?

I'm with this one. Seems like the easiest thing to do is just add some dechlor or prime to top off or water changes to detoxify chloramine. Am I missing something?

[amcvay1979]

I currently have one of these installed prior to my RODI setup;

http://www.ecodynewatertreatment.com.../how-it-works/

I purchased it prior to getting my reef tank setup, but I'm hoping it at least will help with chlorine removal. It was about $300 and super simple to install. No filters to replace. Regen cycle is programmed for 3 a.m. every 7 days for me.

I'll get some of the chlorine test strips and test my input water prior to this filter, after this filter and out of my RODI drain to see if it's helping and post the results.

[Mrs. Music]

I think part of the problem is that chlorine, and chloramines can damage the membrane and shorten it's lifespan. And they are expensive.

[tkeracer619]

Originally Posted by mrs. Music

i think part of the problem is that chlorine, and chloramines can damage the membrane and shorten it's lifespan. And they are expensive.

+1

[outssider]

Originally Posted by amcvay1979

I currently have one of these installed prior to my RODI setup;

http://www.ecodynewatertreatment.com.../how-it-works/

I purchased it prior to getting my reef tank setup, but I'm hoping it at least will help with chlorine removal. It was about $300 and super simple to install. No filters to replace. Regen cycle is programmed for 3 a.m. every 7 days for me.

I'll get some of the chlorine test strips and test my input water prior to this filter, after this filter and out of my RODI drain to see if it's helping and post the results.

it's using carbon and the carbon doesn't need to be replaced??? That don't sound right

[amcvay1979]

There's a regeneration process. Not 100% sure how it works but it does take the swimming pool taste out of the drinking water in the whole house.

[Rybren]

Originally Posted by MMM33732

Can you simply use a dechlor like freshwater setups usually add to tap water to remove/detoxify any chloramines left in RODI water?

Originally Posted by mirkus

I'm with this one. Seems like the easiest thing to do is just add some dechlor or prime to top off or water changes to detoxify chloramine. Am I missing something?

I ran my tanks on tapwater for my first couple of years of reefkeeping. My municipality uses chloramines and I used Prime on all of my water without issue. I see no reason why someone couldn't use it on their RO/DI product water if they were concerned about chloramines getting through.

I have a BRS Chloramine Plus unit, but for the last couple of years, I've just been using two regular carbon blocks that I pick up at HD. So far, so good.

[tkeracer619]

OK so change of pace... I put all of the cartridges for this test in my shopping cart(s) and laughed at the price, not in a good way...

No more games... Instead of ordering all these little cartridges I ordered something more appropriate for my hassles.


A 1micron Pentek ChlorPlus-20BB and a size 4 Pentek Big Blue Housing. A size 1 Pentek Chlorplus weighs 1lb, a size 4 Chlorplus weighs 20lbs.


I'll keep the 10" 1micron pentek and a .5 mircron block for polishing.

[jason2459]

Holy crap I would not have guessed that weight. That's probably going to be more surprising to me then anything else that comes out of this testing. HA!

[tkeracer619]

Yeah, The bracket to hold one is 3/16" thick steel . Made in America

[tkeracer619]

A 1micron Chlorplus 20" Big Blue Carbon Block. This fits a 20"x4.5" size 4 housing. I'm installing this sucker today, the housing had been back ordered and I was away for a couple days so I am just getting to it now. Total cost for the filter, housing, and wrench was about $175.

[tkeracer619]

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

also not sure how quick the gasses come out of solution.

The half life can be up to 23 days. Given the 4ppm limit it could take up to 161 days before my test kit would read zero if I stored the water to try and remove the chloramines via degassing.