First reef tank, LOVE ZOAS, help me out with some advice!

[vokrey09]

Starting my first ever reef tank. I want to keeping primarily zoa's (would love a zoa garden appearance). I have done a lot of reading online on the top but just want everyone opinions and advice on my specific tank scenario.

A few questions that I am struggling with are:
-Which of my current fish do I need to get rid of? Anything I should add (better CUC)?
-Do I need to be concerned with ca, alk, mg when starting out? Or will my weekly 10% wc replenish these levels (until colonies start growing).
-What are some easy zoa's you have had experience with that are on the cheaper side (that multiply quickest)
-Opinions on using Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer as a dipping method?
-Should I start to dose small amounts of kalkwasser in my ato?
-Should I continue running carbon in my filter?

Here is my story...

Switching from a 37gal FOWLR (running for about 8 months) to a 40gal breeder (no sump). Using the same powerheads, hob filter, hob skimmer, and 35lbs live rock.... all from the previous tank.

My current setup is:
40gal breeder
Fluval C4 HOB Filter
CPR BakPak 2+ Skimmer
TWO Hydor Koralia 425 Powerheads
35lbs live rock +40lbs of dry rock just added
20lbs of reef sand (no old sand was used from previous tank)
Tunze Osmolator 3155 ATO
36" Current USA Marine LED Light

Live Stock:
1 Yellow Tang
1 Six Line Wrasse
1 Melanarus Wrasse
2 Clowns
1 Blue Green Chromis
2 Peppermint Shrimp
About 10 snails
1 Brittle Starfish

It has been about 5 days since the switch, and everything has survived!
I went to my LFS yesterday and got a few frags to test out. I acclimated them last night and woke up the morning after and everything looked like crap! (2 days later and looking better now)
The frags were:
1 Green Hammer (died overnight)
Green Star Polys (finally came out since in the afternoon)
1 polyp of Darth Maul Zoa (was retracted for a while but has since came out)
12 polyps of Eagle Eye Zoas these are doing the best of everything)
3 different acan frags (green, red, and orange; these all look really questionable)
AND 1 orange mushroom (which is too small to really tell, looks ok)


My levels are solid (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate), temp is about 78. And the light is on an acclimate setting with 8 hours of light.

I am wishing that I only got zoa's now, definitely need to have some more patience. I am going to wait a few more week until I get any more frags for sure.

The good thing out of this is that I saw how cool the zoa's looked in the tank last night and I 100% want to start a strictly zoa tank with all different types.

[Sk8r]

Zoas are softies. Softies ARE sensitive to alkalinity deficit, but do not use more calcium or magnesium than your regular water changes will supply.

The catch is, fish-only salts are a bit low in calcium: If it were my tank, I'd switch over to a reef salt, and work with supplements (assuming you've been using a fish-only salt) for magnesium and calcium, (don't buy the large economy size of these: you won't use much) ---I'd start with magnesium testing---and if you're under 1300, get it to that reading. Then check your alkalinity, which will be your more critical item. Get it to 8.3. Then check your calcium, and get it to 420. Probably you will never or rarely have to adjust the calcium and magnesium again (once you start onto reef salt, but hey, if you have fish salt, you can go ahead using it so long as you test and supplement) ---but alkalinity must stay at 8.3 or thereabouts.
Massive skimmer is not necessary: just a moderate one. Zoas will filter the water for food, which fish poo will provide. The only problematic fish is the yellow tang, which is apt to cause you problems as he grows to his full size. Tangs will get more aggressive as they feel more crowded, and may do in their tankmates. If you love yellow, get a yellow watchman. Nice neighbor, cigar shaped, cleans your sand, and only gets 5" long.

[Mom2jayden]

^ great advise. I have Zoas, but they don't grow. Good to know.

[vokrey09]

Originally Posted by Sk8r

Zoas are softies. Softies ARE sensitive to alkalinity deficit, but do not use more calcium or magnesium than your regular water changes will supply.

The catch is, fish-only salts are a bit low in calcium: If it were my tank, I'd switch over to a reef salt, and work with supplements (assuming you've been using a fish-only salt) for magnesium and calcium, (don't buy the large economy size of these: you won't use much) ---I'd start with magnesium testing---and if you're under 1300, get it to that reading. Then check your alkalinity, which will be your more critical item. Get it to 8.3. Then check your calcium, and get it to 420. Probably you will never or rarely have to adjust the calcium and magnesium again (once you start onto reef salt, but hey, if you have fish salt, you can go ahead using it so long as you test and supplement) ---but alkalinity must stay at 8.3 or thereabouts.
Massive skimmer is not necessary: just a moderate one. Zoas will filter the water for food, which fish poo will provide. The only problematic fish is the yellow tang, which is apt to cause you problems as he grows to his full size. Tangs will get more aggressive as they feel more crowded, and may do in their tankmates. If you love yellow, get a yellow watchman. Nice neighbor, cigar shaped, cleans your sand, and only gets 5" long.

I really like that idea. Its a shame that I still have two bags of fish only salt. I am going to look around for a deal in the meantime on some reef salt. So, basically bring the parameters to the correct levels using supplements. Then begin doing water changes using the reef salt. This should keep the parameters in check?

Also, I do agree with you on the yellow tang needing to go (only due to his potential size). In terms of aggression, my melanarus wrasse is the worst (about 4" big). He is always diving at the sand stirring things up, stealing food from the others when feeding. I was going to get rid of him until my lfs guy told me, that I should keep him and to think about getting rid of the others. (something about them being good for reef systems)

I recently read a reef central tank of the month article and the guy says that he runs his skimmer, 1 week on, 1 week off. Do you have any input on this method?

Any other advice? Fishing for all the knowledge about zoa's that I can get

[nathanjohnson09]

Fosters and smith sells the reef salt very cheap i always buy the box it is about 52 dollars if im not mistaken

[Sk8r]

Skimmers remove amino acids from the water, junk left over from fish poo and uneaten food. SpS corals want water skimmed crystal clear, very little left in it, because they 'eat' sunlight, and want it undimmed. LPS corals, the fluffy stonies, like water a little less skimmed, because they filter for their food and only partly rely on light. SOFTIES like your zoas rely very little on light, don't like the light blinding bright, and get a lot of their food from the water. So the answer to your question about skimmers varies according to the strength of your skimmer and the nature of your corals. If your coral is happy, your skimmer activity is probably about right. And happy means extended and looking good and most of all GROWING. If your polyps aren't multiplying after a number of weeks of quiet and stability, they might not be getting enough food and you might try a day of no skimmer once a week just to see how that works. Sometimes in this hobby we just experiment and see how it works---but understanding WHY and what the tradeoffs are is the key. You could see a rise in nitrate with the skimmer down for a day. With the skimmer down for a prolonged time you might see some nastiness build up in its water reservoir. So always go slow, test your water and check it out in operation to make sure it's clean and giving you no surprises. Remember your skimmer is somewhat adjustable for efficiency short of cutting it off entirely.