120 gallon reef tank

[shields]

Hey everyone, i am new to this forum so bear with me here...

I am almost complete in setting up a 120 gallon reef tank. I have all the plumbing done and i am running freshwater through it right now for a few days to ensure it runs smoothly. I had purchased a used 120 gallon tank with hood and stand that was being used for freshwater but was drilled. I added internal corner overflow boxes that i got on eBay and a ~30g sump underneath (AGA megaflow sump model 2, but modified) I have a mag 7 and mag 5 returning water to the tank through 2 return pipes which split into 2 loc-tite spreader fittings each. The system came with a 2 bulb T-8 fixture, an LED tube looking fixture (the previous owner stated he hadn't used either, the owner before him used them for saltwater. The T8 works, the led doesn't appear to work.) as well as 2 newer led blue/white bars he used for a freshwater aquarium, one 48", one 38". so my question is: how should i set up the lighting for the display tank and fuge? The tank is 48" long 24" deep, 24" wide. I intend on having corals, fish, inverts, maybe a small safe eel; i intend on filling the sump/fuge with a protein skimmer, macro-algae, live rock and sand bed. I also have few more things on the list to buy, i am trying to be as budget conscious as possible. also please advise on the following:

2-3 powerheads
light timer power strip
Moon lights
"pre made" dry rock structure
Protein skimmer ( have a 100 amazon giftcard, considering buying the coral life SS 125 or 220 from amazon)
temperature probe
Heater: (not sure whether or not i will need a heater based on the output of lights, currently have an AGA 50w from an old freshwater tank)
Magnetic glass scraper
sand
local ocean water

P.s. i have quite a few other questions as well, but lets knock these out of the way first!

[jminick2]

wont that metal clamp rust? if that's on your return pump hard to tell cause the side ways pic.

[ryeguyy84]

good eye, that clamps going to be gone real quick. you want to use plastic clamps for everything.

2-3 powerheads - I'll let someone else take this
light timer power strip - you can use anything from a simple twist timer to an aquarium controller. I'd suggest the apex, as you're going to need an auto top off anyway.
Moon lights - don't really need. if you want to use a few LED strips for moonlight thats fine but the reef gets dark at night.
"pre made" dry rock structure - I'd stick with some live or dry rock and put them how you like.
Protein skimmer ( have a 100 amazon giftcard, considering buying the coral life SS 125 or 220 from amazon) - not my area, i'd suggest getting something oversized for the tank.
temperature probe - if you get the apex it's included
Heater: (not sure whether or not i will need a heater based on the output of lights, currently have an AGA 50w from an old freshwater tank) - I'd suggest a heater as cheap insurance. you'll need a 500W or even better (2) 300W's just incase one goes or gets stuck on it will take longer to do damage. You never know if it's going to be a cold night or maybe your heat goes out.
Magnetic glass scraper - a simple mag float would work.
sand - I've always used the carib sea sand, that doesn't mean it's any better it's just whats available in my area.
local ocean water - you're going to be using ocean water? I've heard of people doing it but not an option for me so i'll let someone else chime in.

[oscarinw]

Advise on

* Powerheads:
I found 2 Jebao WP40 with the twin controller for about $150 and I'm super happy with it.

* Timer:
Used to have a 'coralife' (I believe) power strip and wasn't too happy with it. About a year later it started acting up. Programming it is a pain. Don't recommend it. Save for a controller. Look at the ReefAngel. Going strong for 2 years for me.

* Heater:
You most definitely need a heater. Temperature is one of the most crucial aspects of reefkeeping IMO. Look at the Ehem Jager. Great reviews.

* Ocean Water
If you go out in a boat you might be fine although make sure to filter it for plankton that might be nocive. If you are thinking to get it and haul it from the shore, I would strongly advise you against it. Resons include contamination and pests.

Good luck reefing!

[Stackemdeep]

Originally Posted by shields

Hey everyone, i am new to this forum so bear with me here...Welcome to Reefcentral! I run a 120 so will take a stab at all your questions. You are going to love that tank, it is a wonderful size for a reef.

I am almost complete in setting up a 120 gallon reef tank. I have all the plumbing done and i am running freshwater through it right now for a few days to ensure it runs smoothly. I had purchased a used 120 gallon tank with hood and stand that was being used for freshwater but was drilled. I added internal corner overflow boxes that i got on eBay and a ~30g sump underneath (AGA megaflow sump model 2, but modified) I have a mag 7 and mag 5 returning water to the tank through 2 return pipes which split into 2 loc-tite spreader fittings each. The system came with a 2 bulb T-8 fixture, an LED tube looking fixtureIf you want to grow coral you will be better served as a new reefer with a 6 bulb T5 system. 4 will work and 8 would be ideal. Since you want a mixed coral reef, you need a nice light. t5 is a simple way for new folks to start out and just use a timer (the previous owner stated he hadn't used either, the owner before him used them for saltwater. The T8 works, the led doesn't appear to work.) as well as 2 newer led blue/white bars he used for a freshwater aquarium, one 48", one 38". so my question is: how should i set up the lighting for the display tank and fuge?6500k natural daylight bulb for fuge from any hardware store. Run at night when tank lights are off. The tank is 48" long 24" deep, 24" wide. I intend on having corals, fish, inverts, maybe a small safe eel; i intend on filling the sump/fuge with a protein skimmer, macro-algae, live rock and sand bed. I also have few more things on the list to buy, i am trying to be as budget conscious as possible. also please advise on the following:

2-3 powerheads Tunze. Last forever. Used ok. 25x volume is a good start
light timer power strip Always nice to have
Moon lightsNot really needed
"pre made" dry rock structure Save $$ do your own. Plus it is fun.
Protein skimmer ( have a 100 amazon giftcard, considering buying the coral life SS 125 or 220 from amazon) My 120 needed more. Used is ok but one that will handle 200-250 gallon tank. Ratings are,well,lets just say they are misleading. A 6" skimmer will be fine
temperature probeA regular tank thermometer works fine
Heater: (not sure whether or not i will need a heater based on the output of lights, currently have an AGA 50w from an old freshwater tank)I have had good luck with ViaAqua Titanium heaters so far. No failures.
Magnetic glass scraper Ok but keep it clean
sand I prefer inert, not "live". Tropic Eden Reef Flakes are top notch. Don't go cheap here, your substrate will be with you for a long time. A poor substrate causes problems down the road
local ocean water Filtered? Could be asking for trouble here. I would say not.

P.s. i have quite a few other questions as well, but lets knock these out of the way first!

[shields]

Originally Posted by ryeguyy84

good eye, that clamps going to be gone real quick. you want to use plastic clamps for everything.

2-3 powerheads - I'll let someone else take this
light timer power strip - you can use anything from a simple twist timer to an aquarium controller. I'd suggest the apex, as you're going to need an auto top off anyway.
Moon lights - don't really need. if you want to use a few LED strips for moonlight thats fine but the reef gets dark at night.
"pre made" dry rock structure - I'd stick with some live or dry rock and put them how you like.
Protein skimmer ( have a 100 amazon giftcard, considering buying the coral life SS 125 or 220 from amazon) - not my area, i'd suggest getting something oversized for the tank.
temperature probe - if you get the apex it's included
Heater: (not sure whether or not i will need a heater based on the output of lights, currently have an AGA 50w from an old freshwater tank) - I'd suggest a heater as cheap insurance. you'll need a 500W or even better (2) 300W's just incase one goes or gets stuck on it will take longer to do damage. You never know if it's going to be a cold night or maybe your heat goes out.
Magnetic glass scraper - a simple mag float would work.
sand - I've always used the carib sea sand, that doesn't mean it's any better it's just whats available in my area.
local ocean water - you're going to be using ocean water? I've heard of people doing it but not an option for me so i'll let someone else chime in.

Originally Posted by jminick2

wont that metal clamp rust? if that's on your return pump hard to tell cause the side ways pic.

yes, those clamps are metal: stupid oversight on my end, will switch them to plastic.

and ryeguyy84:
thank you for your advice, i would like to tank to be visible at night as well... isn't that the point of moon lights? (i am unaware how the lighting works)

shouldn't have cold nights here in south florida, but i will certainly get a heater (my thought process is that it wouldn't be needed as i have heard of people getting chillers because of their lights)

I do have boat to go offshore for the water, however it would be a pain to transport 150 gallons myself, lfs' deliver ocean water sourced a few miles out for 1$ per gallon

what should i do for the main aquarium lighting and how should i light the refugium??

i.e: what kind of T8 bulbs should i use for the main tank: (10k, 15k, 20k, 100% blue actinic?)
Can i use the 48" 5500 freshwater blue/white led's to supplement the DT
and then use the 36" 5500 freshwater blue/white led to light the macro algae in the sump?

can anyone comment on their satisfaction with the coral life super skimmer?

another novice question: how does an 'auto top off' work, where does it get the water to add from?

Again everyone.. thank you very much for all of your help, i am new to this hobby and new to forums as well!

[ryeguyy84]

Honestly for coral I'd look into t5 lighting or metal halide (or led budget permitting).

It's been a while since I've heard anything on the corallife super skimmer. So I can't help you there.

Yup that's why people have moonlight. Look at a stunner strip, or some lights have built in moonlights.

My fuge is lit by a Home Depot 5000k led bulb. Nothing fancy

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Cree-60W-Eq...100/205597079/

Pic:


For the ato, in the picture on the right. That black box is my ATO reserve. You fill that with RODI water and it gets pumped into the tank when the float switch is activated.

[shields]

Originally Posted by ryeguyy84

For the ato, in the picture on the right. That black box is my ATO reserve. You fill that with RODI water and it gets pumped into the tank when the float switch is activated.

Okay thanks on the lights and wouldn't the RODI water dilute the salt content?

[insteng]

Originally Posted by shields

Okay thanks on the lights and wouldn't the RODI water dilute the salt content?

It just replaces the water that evaporates. The salt stays there. If you replace the water with saltwater it will raise the salt level too high.

[shields]

Originally Posted by insteng

It just replaces the water that evaporates. The salt stays there. If you replace the water with saltwater it will raise the salt level too high.

Makes sense, so the only time I'm going to be adding saltwater is when I do water changes... Does everyone really do 20% water change every month?

[gone fishin]

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1031074
The link may help you out. It is basically a book with many topics. Good luck

[Goldndoodle]

Originally Posted by shields

Makes sense, so the only time I'm going to be adding saltwater is when I do water changes... Does everyone really do 20% water change every month?

I just started basically the same tank that you're starting (info in my signature below) on January 2nd. The tank finished cycling 2/8/15 - I slowly moved my nanoCube contents into this tank, and now starting to add new purchased to it.

I don't do monthly 20% water changes ... I do 20% every other week.

As was mentioned above - if it is in your budget, consider an APEX Reef Controller. Hands down the best thing I've bought for my new setup!

[Stevenliu9]

I have learned over the years the one piece of equipment you cannot go cheap with is a quality skimmer- I have used coral life skimmers and let's just say you get what you pay for. I use a reef octopus right now and I'm pretty happy with it. A good skimmer is the key to your water quality, which is the key to keeping the livestock you want to keep not just alive but happy

[JammyBirch]

I run Jebao on my cube and love it, the controller allows you to make a really nice wave, and it has a feed mode to shut it off for ten minutes.

Heater, go with the Jager for sure, they have an auto-off function in case of an emergency, by far the safest heater you can get.

Skimmer is a big one too, i run an SCA 301 which is really nice, over sized for my tank but there's nothing wrong with going too big. SCA makes a 302 or 303 that is for big tanks. I'm looking into getting a bigger tank and will go for the SCA again for sure...work horse.

By the way those tanks are great, i'm looking for a 120 also, congrats and good luck.

As for water changes, i think everytank is different and the amount and frequency of the water change is based on the performance of the tank. I do 20% every other week, which is 5 gallons. For you you have 120g tank + 30g sump = 150g a 20% change is 30g everyother week, i'd probably do 10% a week and see how it goes, 15g takes a lot less time to make with RODI then 30g would. See how it goes, it depends on your nitrate production. You need to take out more nitrate than you can make between changes...its additive. Get a good test kit from salfert or red sea...

[shields]

Thanks everyone, I'm gonna order all the equipment tonight. I'm looking into ordering the sand and possibly rock online. I found a company that sells "Caribbean Direct Live Sand Aragonite Marine Substrate" (I wasn't gonna spend the extra money for the live sand or rock other than just a little of each to seed the rest... )however this company (West Mariculture) sells the sand "live" for cheaper than some other places sell dry sand. What does everyone think of it? Have you heard of the company?

Im thinking of getting either 90, 105 or 120lbs of the sand... this should get me near a 2" sand bed for my 120G 48"long, 24"wide tank

heres the link to the sand: http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-LB-105LBS...-/111604670603

and the link to the company website: http://westmariculture.com/store/

Also, for the rock, someone local on craigslist is selling dry rock ~1$ per pound.. Heres the link: http://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/for/4919981581.html

[ABnormalAZ]

Go with a Tunze Skimmer... I love mine. Set it and forget it...LOL

[Reefer PT]

APEX has been mentioned a couple times and I will agree as one of the most important purchases you can easily talk yourself out of. The APEX jr. Is a nice start as you get pump, heater and light control at a good entry price. As you want more you can add a breakout box and set up a nice ato. And then when your coral addiction takes hold you can inexpensively add brs dosing pumps for 2 part or even monitor a calcium reactor. You will wind up buying countless timers, power bars, dosers, and ato's anyway. May as well start right.

[shields]

Originally Posted by Reefer PT

APEX has been mentioned a couple times and I will agree as one of the most important purchases you can easily talk yourself out of. The APEX jr. Is a nice start as you get pump, heater and light control at a good entry price. As you want more you can add a breakout box and set up a nice ato. And then when your coral addiction takes hold you can inexpensively add brs dosing pumps for 2 part or even monitor a calcium reactor. You will wind up buying countless timers, power bars, dosers, and ato's anyway. May as well start right.

Hmm okay, so what is it that separates the Apex Jr. From the apex at almost double the cost? Is it just the fact that the apex has 8 outlets vs the Jr's 4 outlets? And then I could just add another 8 outlet strip later on? Or is there more to it... ?

[Reefer PT]

The Apex Jr. only allows 5 modules to be added the full apex can take pretty much anything you want to add. On my tank I have the display (1), an additional EB8 (2), an auto fish feeder (3) and a PM1 (4) which has a PH probe and a breakout box for the ATO added to it. I still have room for one more module but don't see the need now. The PM1 can be used for a calcium reactor so if I go that route I may pick up another in the future. don't see the need for leak detection as cheaper and louder options exist. where the full apex really shines is in multiple tank set ups or full on automation of everything including water changes. Hope that helps
Dave