converting PC fixture to t5s

KabayanReef · 03/26/2015, 10:31 PM

Has anyone done it? Looking to replace endcaps for t5's , but the fixture is 4x55w 48". So is it possible to retrofit 2 t5's in it as long as the ballast dont override or burn the bulbs. What problems am I looking at?

Thoughts? any info would be nice. Thanks!

fishgate · 03/27/2015, 05:57 AM

The wattage is only 1 more for T5 so that should be fine. I don't know if the ballast is the same kind (with all the methods of starting fluorescent bulbs). If you already have the end caps I don't think it would hurt to try them. I replaced a PC ballast with one slightly different 2 watts more and never had an issue (3 years later I still use it).

jedimasterben · 03/27/2015, 07:24 AM

If the ballast is specifically for PC, then it may or may not start T5HO, but it will not be programmed start, so I would personally swap it out for a proper ballast (Philips Advance or HEP). Philips ICN-2S54 ballasts can be had on ebay for $18 each, run one or two 54w lamps.

Jim.mer · 03/27/2015, 07:27 AM

Good idea to go T-5 but I agree get the proper ballast, they aren't expensive and a lot less head ache in the long run

acrohead500ppm · 03/27/2015, 07:28 AM

many years ago I did this with an old fire hazard of a JBJ 48" formosa PC fixture, Ballasts wouldn't fire the T-5s so either they wont or the ballasts were toast to begin with in my case.

I basically ended up just using the chassis (shell) of the fixture, rewired the whole thing, new switches etc.

03/26/2015, 10:31 PM	#1
KabayanReef Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Middle east Posts: 158	converting PC fixture to t5s Has anyone done it? Looking to replace endcaps for t5's , but the fixture is 4x55w 48". So is it possible to retrofit 2 t5's in it as long as the ballast dont override or burn the bulbs. What problems am I looking at? Thoughts? any info would be nice. Thanks! __________________ What is a word made up of 4 letters, yet is also made up of 3. Although is written with 8 letters, and then with 4. Rarely consists of 6, and never is written with 5.

03/27/2015, 05:57 AM	#2
fishgate Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Damascus, MD Posts: 3,340	The wattage is only 1 more for T5 so that should be fine. I don't know if the ballast is the same kind (with all the methods of starting fluorescent bulbs). If you already have the end caps I don't think it would hurt to try them. I replaced a PC ballast with one slightly different 2 watts more and never had an issue (3 years later I still use it). __________________ 125RR in-wall, 40B Sump, CS180 BM Skimmer, ATI 4x80 watt, eheim 1262, custom wrap around rock wall, ReefKeeper Elite 120g in-wall, 40B Sump, PC 54wx4, Jabao DC-6000 (full siphon), future seahorse t Current Tank Info: 125g, 120g, 2x40b sumps, ATI 4x80 T5HO

03/27/2015, 07:24 AM	#3
jedimasterben LED world domination! Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Okeechobee, FL Posts: 1,030	If the ballast is specifically for PC, then it may or may not start T5HO, but it will not be programmed start, so I would personally swap it out for a proper ballast (Philips Advance or HEP). Philips ICN-2S54 ballasts can be had on ebay for $18 each, run one or two 54w lamps. __________________ Dinoflagellates are the kiss of death. Current Tank Info: Acquasole 60, IceCap 15 Sump, 2x Maxspect Ethereal, Coral Box D500 skimmer, Maxspect Gyre 150, Jecod DCS-5000

03/27/2015, 07:27 AM	#4
Jim.mer Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: North Bay,Ont Posts: 235	Good idea to go T-5 but I agree get the proper ballast, they aren't expensive and a lot less head ache in the long run __________________ JBJ 12 in the works, I said to my self, my self I said, Maybe i'll go LED No my self said No, MH all the way Current Tank Info: 12 jbj settin up soon, no fish, just inverts, hermits,softies,LPS

03/27/2015, 07:28 AM	#5
acrohead500ppm Moved On Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: No,never,never Posts: 723	many years ago I did this with an old fire hazard of a JBJ 48" formosa PC fixture, Ballasts wouldn't fire the T-5s so either they wont or the ballasts were toast to begin with in my case. I basically ended up just using the chassis (shell) of the fixture, rewired the whole thing, new switches etc.