Overflow and plumping help

dgilpin22 · 04/06/2015, 01:12 PM

I'm trying to decide on the best overflow setup for my tank. I have a 75g that I plan on drilling. Bottom is tempered, so I will be drilling the back. I believe I am going to go with a beananimal setup for my plumping. With that setup, I believe Beananimal used a coast to coast overflow. Are there any kind of problems with this kind of overflow? Do I need to worry about too much overflow? My sump will have a return pump rated at 700gph. Should I go with 1.5 inch bulk heads and 1.5 inch plumping? I believe his setup was 1 inch bulk heads and 1.5 inch plumping. This is all very new to me and would love as much help and advice as possible. I want to get this right the first time.

RocketEngineer · 04/06/2015, 03:19 PM

For that size tank, 1" bulkheads and plumbing is plenty. Do your research in the DIY forum on how to size the overflow correctly based on the plumbing sizes.

Good Luck,

dgilpin22 · 04/06/2015, 05:10 PM

That is where I am running into problems. I have taken a glance at the DIY section and have asked many people across many forums about this. I can't really seem to get a straight answer, formula, etc. on how to calculate this. I seem to get a different answer every time.

RocketEngineer · 04/06/2015, 06:08 PM

Ok, try this:

Step 1: Purchase the bulkheads and diamond hole saw that matches said bulkheads. Personally, I like BRS because they sell both and link one to the other to make sure you get the right ones.

Step 2: Once you have these, make a template to position the holes correctly. When drilling in glass, you want to leave one diameter width of glass all the way around the hole. This means that you want the center of the holes to be 1.5 times the hole diameter away from the top edge of the glass and 2 times the hole diameter center to center. So, as an example if you are drilling with a 50mm hole saw, you want the center of the holes to be at least 75mm down from the top and 100mm between them. Your numbers will depend on the size of the diamond hole saw which will depend on the size of the bulkhead. That's why you need to get them FIRST.

Step 3: Drill the hole. I use the template to get the groove started and then remove it. I like using a drill guide to ensure straight holes. Lots of water. I clamp a piece of wood inside the tank so when I break through, I don't get chip out or drop things onto the far side of the tank.

Step 4: Install the bulkheads and dry fit the elbows. Now you can measure the actual fittings for the overflow. You want enough clearance to remove the fittings. There should be 1" of space under the down turned elbow. Most folks, myself included, want the water light to be just above the bottom of the trim so it isn't seen. Measure the inside width of the tank.

Step 5: Purchase and install the pieces of the overflow. I use Momentive RTV 108 for both overflows and sump construction. Once you have the pieces of glass, install them making sure to work quickly before the silicone skins over. Leave that to sit for one week before you put water in it. If you can still smell the vinegar smell of the silicone, its not ready.

After that you should be good to go.

stingeragent · 04/06/2015, 06:38 PM

I'd go with the bean animal if I had to start over. I can't see you need 1 1/2 drains or return on that tank. My 40 has 1/2in drains (i have herbie), and I have to close the main drain almost 50% for the 600gph return pump to keep up. Your overflow will be limited by the return pump. If you have 1in drains or 5in drains, its only gonna drain as fast as the return fills it up. Only way your gonna flood your tank with the overflow is if you put a giant return pump like 2000gph on a 1/2 in drain

Mrramsey · 04/06/2015, 06:41 PM

I ran all 3/4" on my 72 g be an animal. Handled 600gph just fine.

dgilpin22 · 04/06/2015, 10:54 PM

So the size of my overflow shouldn't be an issue? I guess that's really what I'm asking here.

Appreciate the info, RocketEngineer. I figured that was the basic step-by-step guide, but I really wanted to be sure.

I've seen a few set ups where people have done an internal overflow box, drilled two holes in the glass inside the overflow box, and built an external box for all the plumbing. I see the advantages of the external boxes in the way of flow. Is that really the only advantage? Are there any downsides to this setup?

dgilpin22 · 04/07/2015, 05:32 PM

bump

stingeragent · 04/07/2015, 06:25 PM

I have an internal and like it. Just choose an overflow size thats gonna give you enough room for all your holes you gotta cut, and also enough front to back room that you can pull out any 90' pvc's you put in. I made that mistake. I can't remove the pvc thats in the overflow without cutting out the overflow cause its too narrow.

julie180 · 04/08/2015, 02:56 AM

The longer the overflow, the better filtration you will have. My 6' tank has a 24" overflow and its way to small.

Your overflow will only handle the amount of water that your pump pushes back into the tank.

04/06/2015, 01:12 PM	#1
dgilpin22 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Posts: 37	Overflow and plumping help I'm trying to decide on the best overflow setup for my tank. I have a 75g that I plan on drilling. Bottom is tempered, so I will be drilling the back. I believe I am going to go with a beananimal setup for my plumping. With that setup, I believe Beananimal used a coast to coast overflow. Are there any kind of problems with this kind of overflow? Do I need to worry about too much overflow? My sump will have a return pump rated at 700gph. Should I go with 1.5 inch bulk heads and 1.5 inch plumping? I believe his setup was 1 inch bulk heads and 1.5 inch plumping. This is all very new to me and would love as much help and advice as possible. I want to get this right the first time.

04/06/2015, 03:19 PM	#2
RocketEngineer Space is big. Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Maryland Eastern Shore Posts: 3,226	For that size tank, 1" bulkheads and plumbing is plenty. Do your research in the DIY forum on how to size the overflow correctly based on the plumbing sizes. Good Luck, __________________ -RocketEngineer "Knowledge is what you get when you read the directions, experience is what you get when you don't." - Unknown Current Tank Info: None Currently

04/06/2015, 06:08 PM	#4
RocketEngineer Space is big. Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Maryland Eastern Shore Posts: 3,226	Ok, try this: Step 1: Purchase the bulkheads and diamond hole saw that matches said bulkheads. Personally, I like BRS because they sell both and link one to the other to make sure you get the right ones. Step 2: Once you have these, make a template to position the holes correctly. When drilling in glass, you want to leave one diameter width of glass all the way around the hole. This means that you want the center of the holes to be 1.5 times the hole diameter away from the top edge of the glass and 2 times the hole diameter center to center. So, as an example if you are drilling with a 50mm hole saw, you want the center of the holes to be at least 75mm down from the top and 100mm between them. Your numbers will depend on the size of the diamond hole saw which will depend on the size of the bulkhead. That's why you need to get them FIRST. Step 3: Drill the hole. I use the template to get the groove started and then remove it. I like using a drill guide to ensure straight holes. Lots of water. I clamp a piece of wood inside the tank so when I break through, I don't get chip out or drop things onto the far side of the tank. Step 4: Install the bulkheads and dry fit the elbows. Now you can measure the actual fittings for the overflow. You want enough clearance to remove the fittings. There should be 1" of space under the down turned elbow. Most folks, myself included, want the water light to be just above the bottom of the trim so it isn't seen. Measure the inside width of the tank. Step 5: Purchase and install the pieces of the overflow. I use Momentive RTV 108 for both overflows and sump construction. Once you have the pieces of glass, install them making sure to work quickly before the silicone skins over. Leave that to sit for one week before you put water in it. If you can still smell the vinegar smell of the silicone, its not ready. After that you should be good to go. __________________ -RocketEngineer "Knowledge is what you get when you read the directions, experience is what you get when you don't." - Unknown Current Tank Info: None Currently

04/06/2015, 06:41 PM	#6
Mrramsey NEO Reefer Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Hudson Ohio Posts: 1,801	I ran all 3/4" on my 72 g be an animal. Handled 600gph just fine. __________________ Mike My 120 Build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2389417 Current Tank Info: 120g In-Wall \| BA Overflow \| 55g Sump \| SWC Extreme 150 Skimmer \| DIY ATO \| 2 Jebao RW-8\| Fluval SP6 \| Photon 48v2 LED \| GFO and Carbon

04/06/2015, 10:54 PM	#7
dgilpin22 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Posts: 37	So the size of my overflow shouldn't be an issue? I guess that's really what I'm asking here. Appreciate the info, RocketEngineer. I figured that was the basic step-by-step guide, but I really wanted to be sure. I've seen a few set ups where people have done an internal overflow box, drilled two holes in the glass inside the overflow box, and built an external box for all the plumbing. I see the advantages of the external boxes in the way of flow. Is that really the only advantage? Are there any downsides to this setup? Last edited by dgilpin22; 04/06/2015 at 11:10 PM.

04/06/2015, 05:10 PM	#3
dgilpin22 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Posts: 37	That is where I am running into problems. I have taken a glance at the DIY section and have asked many people across many forums about this. I can't really seem to get a straight answer, formula, etc. on how to calculate this. I seem to get a different answer every time.

04/06/2015, 06:38 PM	#5
stingeragent Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Posts: 1,032	I'd go with the bean animal if I had to start over. I can't see you need 1 1/2 drains or return on that tank. My 40 has 1/2in drains (i have herbie), and I have to close the main drain almost 50% for the 600gph return pump to keep up. Your overflow will be limited by the return pump. If you have 1in drains or 5in drains, its only gonna drain as fast as the return fills it up. Only way your gonna flood your tank with the overflow is if you put a giant return pump like 2000gph on a 1/2 in drain

04/07/2015, 05:32 PM	#8
dgilpin22 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Posts: 37	bump

04/07/2015, 06:25 PM	#9
stingeragent Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Posts: 1,032	I have an internal and like it. Just choose an overflow size thats gonna give you enough room for all your holes you gotta cut, and also enough front to back room that you can pull out any 90' pvc's you put in. I made that mistake. I can't remove the pvc thats in the overflow without cutting out the overflow cause its too narrow.

04/08/2015, 02:56 AM	#10
julie180 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Raymore, MO Posts: 2,556	The longer the overflow, the better filtration you will have. My 6' tank has a 24" overflow and its way to small. Your overflow will only handle the amount of water that your pump pushes back into the tank.