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Unread 07/24/2015, 12:30 PM   #1
Sk8r
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Buy these things before you fill your tank.

1. a ro/di filter

2. a refractometer

3. your own NUMERICAL test kit at least for alkalinity, plus buffer, as well as your test strips for nitrate/ammonia.

4. a digital submersible thermometer, which will be to set up at about 78-80 and hold it with all pumps running.

5. a skimmer if you have a system that can accommodate it---and if you're going to have a reef, a skimmer is indicated. Buy it for 2x your total system water volume.

6. lights well researched for the highest-end thing you ever hope to keep: rebuying lights is horrendously expensive: it's probably the spendiest piece of equipment you will have.

7. buy a tank that will keep the ADULT size of the largest fish you hope to keep. No kidding on this one. They grow up very, very, very fast. What you are sold is not far from a hatchling, in some species. Blennies and gobies and a few others are sold as adults.

8. a pump that will turn over the entire water volume of your tank 5 to 10 x an hour. This number is the gph (gallons per hour number) which is affected by how high the pump has to lift the water (a number called 'head') So if you need to move 100 gallons through 10 x, you need a 1000 gph pump. You can supplement the return pump with 'powerheads' or in-tank fans.

9. enough live rock. This can be 'future live rock,' ie, ordinary holey limestone that's going to get 'infected' by the bacteria from one really live rock. Or all really live rock. Or manmade. DO condition any 'raw' dry rock. That's a whole other thread. That's at least a pound of holey rock per gallon.

10. a quarantine tank with pump, filter and heater. This is also a whole other topic. No sand, no rock, no light. But you need this.

If you can't afford this (small wonder!) save up and get it all BEFORE water goes into a tank. Ask about brands, get a list of best brands of that type of equipment, and maybe you can pick up some things used.


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Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 07/24/2015, 01:12 PM   #2
hkgar
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Excellent advise. The problem with this hobby is one that is difficult to correct.

Many, like me get their start from a desire to have a saltwater tank and have absolutely NO knowledge of what we are getting into, and, so, off to the LFS to seek advice. At least that is what I did. It want a bad start but only started with a 40B, Aquaclear filter, Thermometer, and adequate live rock.


Took awhile before I found this forum, and glad I did.


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Gary


180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 07/24/2015, 01:20 PM   #3
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And the cost can sneak up on you---leaving you with a tank, fish, problems, and suddenly realizing you have an expensive fix. It's SO easy to get sold the wrong thing, even the expensive wrong thing. If you haven't used it, and it's still in the box, you should be able to return it for the right thing.

Honestly, once the tank starts going together, is not the time to discover you need a bunch of stuff that's going to max out the cards. Own it all, free and clear, before you put water in it, and that way you can do this without financial crisis---and be sure that you won't have to rebuy what died from want of the right equipment.


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Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 07/24/2015, 01:36 PM   #4
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Hate to tell you how many skimmers I have had - and other things, like my walk down LED lane then later deciding I preferred the MH highway.


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Gary


180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 07/24/2015, 02:07 PM   #5
Sk8r
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Yep. I tend to be a bit minimalist---lps corals aren't too fussy. But changing tanks and doubling tank size has been a challenge. Do the lights reach bottom? [They do.] Is the skimmer enough (it wasn't)---etc. FOr me it was the chance of a lifetime to get the tank of my dreams at a rare bargain, but it's been an undertaking! I still consider myself in setup. But we're getting there.


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Sk8r

Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 07/24/2015, 02:38 PM   #6
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I understand. I had a beautiful SPS 90 gallon tank and just knew I would love a 180. It has been a real challenge. First lost all fish with Ick, GHA outbreak and a 6 month battle that cost me all corals and most fish again, oh and put me in the hospital. Still learning and moving forward.


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Gary


180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 07/24/2015, 02:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hkgar View Post
Hate to tell you how many skimmers I have had - and other things, like my walk down LED lane then later deciding I preferred the MH highway.
I have the same 3 M/H Ballast and Fixtures i started with 22 years ago... They are HUGE Heavy and prob suck up more power then i care to want to think about.... But When the timer clicks the BULBS LIGHT UP.. My guess in 10 years from now when people are on there 3rd or 5th set of leds. It will still only cost me 100.00 bucks a year for bulbs plus the power...

They just work... I ALSO Use a GLASS Hydrometer .. If something works You do not need a new Fancy Gadget just to say you have it.....

But my next purchase will be a Reef Controller... The more money i sink into this . It Just makes sense .....

Just Got a Reeflo pump today . Sick of cheap pumps dieing every few years .


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Unread 07/24/2015, 03:18 PM   #8
Sk8r
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That IS another point: cheap is not always cheap---when the hobby lasts a lifetime.

I also have MH, and I'm leaning toward LEDs (the notion of thunderstorms and clouds just intrigues the daylights out of me) but at a replacement rate of once every 7 years, it's kind of a wash on price.


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Sk8r

Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 07/24/2015, 04:03 PM   #9
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It is not thunderstorms, but lightening storms - there ain't no noise, and clouds are just your tank getting darker for a period of time. Trust me, the fun lasts at most week, you soon find you are doubtfully not even looking at the tank when they do occur.


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Gary


180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 07/24/2015, 04:24 PM   #10
ericarenee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sk8r View Post
That IS another point: cheap is not always cheap---when the hobby lasts a lifetime.

I also have MH, and I'm leaning toward LEDs (the notion of thunderstorms and clouds just intrigues the daylights out of me) but at a replacement rate of once every 7 years, it's kind of a wash on price.


I have Considered this as well. I do not care about all the light effects myself. But the power savings And no bulb replacement would be nice.

My issue is each year the led manufacturers Make big jumps in tech.I am thinking they are just not there yet for the ones that would fit my Budget with having a Perfectly Great Tried and TRUE Lighting system...

If i were setting up a new tank and had to buy new lights. Then it would be worth the extra money of the cost of purchase maybe.. Bonnie would HANG Me if i spent the 2 grand to switch the lights over our Tank...


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Unread 07/25/2015, 09:38 AM   #11
Sk8r
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What way too many people do not realize is that the TANK is, over all, only a moderate expense in this hobby: if you spend all you've got on a tank, getting equipment for it is going to be real hard. That's one reason I strongly suggest getting your essential gear before adding water, check it out on RC for recommendations of brand, size, etc.

Far, far too many people spend bundles on fish, and replacement fish, and replacements for the replacements' replacements' replacements ---all because they DIDN'T prioritize equipment to keep the fish alive. You're going to spend money in this hobby, but you spend more if you let your desire to have a tank like the pictures get ahead of the equipment you need to make it happen.


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Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 07/25/2015, 11:13 AM   #12
segen77
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Great thread. Is there a thread for equipment recommendations and comparisons or do things simply change too often?

I'm currently in the process of getting back in to the hobby after being out for 7 years and need all new equipment. I have no clue what RO/DI system is best now, refractometer, lighting, pumps, controllers, etc... I've been doing a lot of reading through various threads trying to figure it all out.


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Unread 07/25/2015, 11:26 AM   #13
Sk8r
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All I can say is what I have: MH lights (company now defunct) Ushio bulb, AquaVim 105 gallon wedge bow; Iwaki 100 pump (basement); Coralife 200 skimmer; kalk in topoff (Mrs Wages Pickling Lime); Avast topoff switch/sensor; Eheim topoff pump; Eheim heater; Salifert tests; Kent supplements; Oceanic reef salt; Eshopps sump; BRS ro/di; no-name refractometer.


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Sk8r

Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 07/25/2015, 11:32 AM   #14
hkgar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by segen77 View Post
Great thread. Is there a thread for equipment recommendations and comparisons or do things simply change too often?

I'm currently in the process of getting back in to the hobby after being out for 7 years and need all new equipment. I have no clue what RO/DI system is best now, refractometer, lighting, pumps, controllers, etc... I've been doing a lot of reading through various threads trying to figure it all out.
The Lighting, equipment forum is the place to start. There is information on every piece you listed. Learn to use the search button and ask questions, most of us will be happy to share what we know - just remember, you must decide if the advice is valuable and correct, e.g. I think a refractometer is a necessity, but many will tell you you can get by with a hydrometer - which I think is worthless and difficult to get an accurate reading. You decide which is correct - for you.

There are almost too many brands and styles of skimmers to count, I know I have had several of them. Almost every one has its followers and believers.


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Gary


180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 07/25/2015, 12:30 PM   #15
hotdogmj71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sk8r View Post
1. a ro/di filter got it

2. a refractometer got it

3. your own NUMERICAL test kit at least for alkalinity, plus buffer, as well as your test strips for nitrate/ammonia.

4. a digital submersible thermometer, which will be to set up at about 78-80 and hold it with all pumps running.

OK, got the 1st 2 out of the way. How about this thermometer?


http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Digital-Fi...al+thermometer

Next I have always used API for my freshwater tests. Is there a better alternative for SW?

Thanks everyone. I will eventually get there.


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Unread 07/25/2015, 12:38 PM   #16
hkgar
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Originally Posted by hotdogmj71 View Post
OK, got the 1st 2 out of the way. How about this thermometer?


http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Digital-Fi...al+thermometer

Next I have always used API for my freshwater tests. Is there a better alternative for SW?

Thanks everyone. I will eventually get there.
I think he meant a heater along with a controller for the heater.


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Gary


180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 07/25/2015, 12:48 PM   #17
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I use an Eheim heater, period, no controller. I'm old school simply because that's the equipment I bought back when, and have replaced piecemeal for too many decades to mention.
One thing with heaters, get the priciest best: the cheapest cheap can fail, short out, kill your fish, even start a house fire: most dangerous piece of equipment in the tank---get the absolute best.


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Sk8r

Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 07/25/2015, 01:17 PM   #18
hkgar
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As you have a Eheim, which I believe is glass, can I infer that you believe glass is preferrable to titanium? If so , curious as to why?

Thanks


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 07/25/2015, 03:24 PM   #19
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Maybe I'm just easily amused, but I love the program-ability of LEDs, clouds and lightening and fake thunderstorms and all. I suppose the novelty may wear off, then again, the novelty of a large glass tank of saltwater might wear off too, but for now I'm hooked.


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Unread 07/25/2015, 04:04 PM   #20
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I have no objection to titanium. Eheim makes a good product and seals it well. Seals are one of the biggest problems: a leak lets water and electricity meet, which is not good. Another major precaution is GFI circuits serving the tank: that's ground fault interrupt, which means it will trip and break contact with any short or stress.


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Sk8r

Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 07/26/2015, 05:40 AM   #21
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Absolutely, make sure you have a GFI circuit and periodically test for stray voltage leaks.


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Gary


180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 07/26/2015, 05:06 PM   #22
hotdogmj71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hkgar View Post
Absolutely, make sure you have a GFI circuit and periodically test for stray voltage leaks.
OK, that brings up something I have been thinking about. Instead of rewiring the outlet, will a plug in GFI work just as well?


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Unread 07/27/2015, 01:02 PM   #23
Shawn O
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sk8r View Post
the notion of thunderstorms and clouds just intrigues the daylights out of me
Not sure if there was a pun intended but I certainly got a chuckle out of it.

My setup came with a cheap LED light for FOWLR, will be upgrading to a programmable LED at some point to start keeping corals. The notion of weather effects is nice, and I'd love to have it, at no extra cost. Paying extra for a sales gimmick is not my thing. I'll be looking for good performance and the ability to do sunrise/set. If it came down to two lights that are identical in price and performance the light show might get my dollar. With tech changing at such a fast rate, I'll not be buying bleeding edge LEDs just to have the next model coming out be better and (possibly) cheaper. I learned my lesson over the last 17 years building serious gaming PCs. No sooner than you install the next new piece of hardware, it's obsolete and you're behind the curve.


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2x Occellaris, 1 Pajama, 1 Neon Dottyback.

Current Tank Info: 55gal tank, sumpless, ReefOctopus Classic 90, Twin bulb T5.
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Unread 07/27/2015, 01:09 PM   #24
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Definitely. If I do go to LEDs it will not be FOR the clouds, but a question of cost and efficacy re coral care. My really old MH unit is a power hog and takes 100.00 worth of bulbs every 8 months. But it's paid for.


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Sk8r

Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 07/27/2015, 01:20 PM   #25
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LED tech will continue to improve and hopefully continue to get cheaper. What LED manufacturers (mainly R&D folks) will need to accomplish is to make them put out more light without just doubling the wattage of the diodes. Not long ago they were using 1 watt diodes and now are using 3 watts and more than tripling the power consumption in the process. This is good in that these lights can now effectively grow coral but they will be reaching a point where they could use as much power as a T5 setup. At that point, where is the advantage?


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"55gal glass box full of water, rocks and some not-so-amused little fishes"
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Current Tank Info: 55gal tank, sumpless, ReefOctopus Classic 90, Twin bulb T5.
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