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Unread 07/26/2015, 08:10 PM   #1
ReefinRambo
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New To Saltwater - Tackling Different Fronts

Hey guys first post here. Glad to be here joinin' the community. Someone from AR15.com sent me over here. I had a 75 gallon with African Cichlid's a couple years ago and have always wanted to get into Saltwater. I now have the means to be able to do that so I got a 150 gallon off of Craigslist for 300 bucks.

First things first. Owner said tank leaks. He re-sealed it holds water until it gets to be about 3/4 of the wall full and leaks on bottom front side in one spot.

I think its because this particular tank stand does not have any cross braces touching under the glass. The stand does have cross braces but they dont seem to touch the bottom it only goes around all four corners.

I plan on making my own stand most likely as I need to custom fit this tank in one particular spot in my basement. I'm very DIY/Handy with all kinds of tools so any body that has some good plans with a Saltwater tank of this size in mind with the idea that the bottom is accessible and I can put a ~55 gallon sump along with equipment in the bottom. Suggestions are welcomed.

To re-seal the front side of the tank I got some GE Silicone II from Lowes. I plan on building the stand with cross braces and then see if it holds water for a couple days after letting the silicone dry for 3 days or so. Any suggestions are welcomed.

For the Tank Equipment once I fix the leaks I need some recommendations.


I'm thinking 3 x 52 LED AI Hydra's on a 72 Mount with a Director. I don't want something that puts off a lot of heat. I do not want to hang something from the ceiling. I don't want to have to replace lighting every couple years. I'd like to spend the money up front to do it right. Suggestions?

For the sump I'm thinking Reef Octopus. If I have 150 + 55 Gallon Sump Get one rated for 210-300 gallons? To my knowledge the water in the sump only goes up to a certain level on the skimmer?

For the sump which I dont know a lot about I am in need of suggestions on what all is needed bioballs, filter, brands, sizes, etc.

Return pump I've heard votes for Reeflo Dart pump. Kind of unsure on size and they have some different levels so wondering what people think on sizes, level, etc.

For wavemakers not sure how many on brand I've seen a lot of people recommend Jebao not sure on the size?

Is a powerhead the same as a wavemaker? Seems like from looking at Hydor's website it is. I've seen a lot of people recommend them would I be better with them over Jebao? What size? How many?

I'm thinking roughly 1 pound per sand per gallon +/- 20 pounds
Brand CaribSea?

I'm thinking roughly 1 pound per live rock per gallon +/- 20 pounds
Brand CaribSea?

Overflow to hang off the back of the tank I have no idea on brand/type/size.

I have RO unit in the house that I can use to make salt water with and was planning to buy some plastic tanks of decent size to have around the house. 2 of them 1 for waste water and 1 for premade salt water. I would also like to have a water pump of some sort to mount on top of the tanks when im using them to pump the salt/waste water to and from the fish tank. Thoughts?

I'd rather have digital equipment for testing chemicals. I've seen some digital testers on marine depot. Are they any good and are they worth the 100 dollars a pop?

I've used those tank magnets in the past but they seem to scratch the **** out of the glass. Any other tank cleaning recommendations?

What other equipment am I going to need? Do you have to siphon saltwater tanks just like any other fish tank?

Refugium? Really needed?

I was planning on leaving the rock and sand in for about a month doing bi weekly water changes until i get everything stable and then adding in a fish or two.

I have no clue where to start on Corals. How they are grown. What the temps need to be? How the lighting needs to be set? What the readings need to be? Differences in corals, etc. Someone point me in the right direction there?

For feeding saltwater fish / corals what is involved? No clue on this either.


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Unread 07/26/2015, 09:26 PM   #2
Aero175
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Welcome to Reef Central!

Seems you are asking all the right questions. I'll try to answer as much as I can.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ReefinRambo View Post
Hey guys first post here. Glad to be here joinin' the community. Someone from AR15.com sent me over here. I had a 75 gallon with African Cichlid's a couple years ago and have always wanted to get into Saltwater. I now have the means to be able to do that so I got a 150 gallon off of Craigslist for 300 bucks.

First things first. Owner said tank leaks. He re-sealed it holds water until it gets to be about 3/4 of the wall full and leaks on bottom front side in one spot.

I think its because this particular tank stand does not have any cross braces touching under the glass. The stand does have cross braces but they dont seem to touch the bottom it only goes around all four corners.

I plan on making my own stand most likely as I need to custom fit this tank in one particular spot in my basement. I'm very DIY/Handy with all kinds of tools so any body that has some good plans with a Saltwater tank of this size in mind with the idea that the bottom is accessible and I can put a ~55 gallon sump along with equipment in the bottom. Suggestions are welcomed.

To re-seal the front side of the tank I got some GE Silicone II from Lowes. I plan on building the stand with cross braces and then see if it holds water for a couple days after letting the silicone dry for 3 days or so. Any suggestions are welcomed.

I have not tried to reseal any tanks myself. When I set up my current 90 gallon, a buddy was getting ride of his. The tank was leaking from the upper front corner when it was filled over 3/4 full. I did a lot of reading, and the best advice I found was to buy a new tank. I am not saying it can't be done, but you need to make sure you get all of the old silicone off. Then you need to clean it with alcohol to prep for resealing. It was my understanding that you need to basically remove the entire panel to "seal it right". Again I am not saying it can't be done, just what I read.

For the Tank Equipment once I fix the leaks I need some recommendations.


I'm thinking 3 x 52 LED AI Hydra's on a 72 Mount with a Director. I don't want something that puts off a lot of heat. I do not want to hang something from the ceiling. I don't want to have to replace lighting every couple years. I'd like to spend the money up front to do it right. Suggestions?


I am currently running 2 x Hydra 52's over my 90. I absolutely love them. All of my corals are showing great color, and growth. I am keeping SPS, LPS, and Softies. I was on the same thinking as you. I didn't want to have to change bulbs every 12 months at $24-30 a pop.


For the sump I'm thinking Reef Octopus. If I have 150 + 55 Gallon Sump Get one rated for 210-300 gallons? To my knowledge the water in the sump only goes up to a certain level on the skimmer?

I also have a Reef Octopus INT-150 on my tank. I would suggest something capable of at least double your water volume. The INT-150 was rated at 210 gallons. So far the RO skimmer has done a great job. I get a nice dark skimmate.

For the sump which I dont know a lot about I am in need of suggestions on what all is needed bioballs, filter, brands, sizes, etc.

You don't need to purchase a pre made sump. Since you are a DIY kinda of guy, you can put one together. There are some plans online on how to install baffles, and at what height they need to be. I would just find an old 55 gallon on craigslist that doesn't leak, and use that.

Return pump I've heard votes for Reeflo Dart pump. Kind of unsure on size and they have some different levels so wondering what people think on sizes, level, etc.

There are a bunch of options for pumps. I went with an Ehiem and it is mostly quiet. Just a light hum. I would find something that will turn your tank over the same amount your skimmer can handle. For example if the skimmer is rated at 400 gph then get a pump that will turn you 150 gallons + water in the skimmer over at the same rate, or slightly lower. That way the skimmer is processing most of what is flowing by it, of course it won't get everything all at once.

For wavemakers not sure how many on brand I've seen a lot of people recommend Jebao not sure on the size?

Is a powerhead the same as a wavemaker? Seems like from looking at Hydor's website it is. I've seen a lot of people recommend them would I be better with them over Jebao? What size? How many?

I would suggest the ecotech marine MP 40s for your tank. I have one on my 90, and it is plenty of flow for the tank. They have settings that you can simulate tide pools, and different currents. They are a little pricey, but I think well worth it. Regardless of the ones you decide on the key here is tank turn over. Depending on the type of corals you want to keep you may need to turn your tank over a total of 40 times per hour. For example my MP-40 can do 4500+ gph. So that turns my tank over just under 45 times an hour.
I'm gonna let other chime in on ease of care for different corals. I am still in the learning process myself. I hope this helps you out. Good luck, and keep us posted on what you decide!


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Unread 07/26/2015, 09:29 PM   #3
Scoted
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I would trash the tank and the overflow plan and get a tank reef ready or have one drilled. With the amount of money that you are going to spend the risk of a tank disaster is not worth taking! Search Dorso Herbie and plumbing sumps for your next research project.

Not all powerheads are wave makers but the jebao's are a less expensive choice.

Read the sticky's at the top on setting up a new tank and you should get some insight on how to proceed.

Good luck and before you buy something research the options. Spending hundreds of dollars on digital probes hurts if you turn around and buy a controller in 6 months or a year later.


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Unread 07/27/2015, 08:44 AM   #4
ReefinRambo
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In regards to probes you are referring to measuring the different levels correct? What is the difference between that and a controller?


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Unread 07/27/2015, 09:15 AM   #5
theatrus
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Tank? Trash it. The last thing you want is a leaking tank. Sorry, that's really the safest path In order to properly reseal the tank, you'll need to gut it to its panes, really clean it, and rebuild. Anything else is a temporary patch. Also, it sounds like your tank is not pre-drilled? As someone who started with hang on back overflows, they are terrible. For a 150, you will want more than one.

LEDs? Ai Hydra52 is a great way to go.

Skimmer: You can also look at the Vertex Omega line. I used to run a SRO, but was unhappy with the overall pump quality.

If you are comfortable with tank building (i.e., you're willing to reseal yours), building an acrylic sump is *easier* That's the route I went. There are a ton of sump designs out there, just pay attention to there being enough space for your skimmer, a good size refuge, and enough space in the return section to handle all your tank drains and evaporation.

Return pump: I've used PanWorld pumps for years (I'm sure mine is about 12 years old in continuous operation). Can also go with Iwaki.

Wavemakers/powerheads? If budget allows, you can always look into a set of EcoTech MP40W/MP60W pumps. Everything is synced wirelessly between the pumps. You will be shelling out quite a bit of cash here though.

RO water? I use garbage cans. Brute 32g. I used to run an auto-topoff but haven't replumbed the current house for that. Waste water I still bucket brigade with 5g salt buckets to the toilet, though I'm really really itching to plumb everything to the garage and use a sink there.

Digital tests? Sure, you can read pH reliably and cheaply. Use a Hanna checker (the egg shaped things) for other chemicals improves repeat-ability. But you will still need to use re-agents for a number of the critical tests (ammonia, nitrates, alkalinity, calcium), and a refractometer for salinity (though I did finally splurge and have an electronic refractometer, still not automated of course).

I think the first question is going to be your tank, and if its in budget to properly fix it (i.e., buy one that doesn't leak). Its a fun process!


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Unread 07/27/2015, 09:36 AM   #6
Shawn O
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RE: homemade sumps... acrylic baffles in acrylic tanks, glass baffles in glass tanks.
+1 to Aero175 and Theatrus, unless you've already rebuilt a few tanks, don't attempt to rebuild a large tank. Buy a new Reef-ready tank, or cheaper still, get a new non-drilled tank and drill it yourself (or have a friend drill it). Good luck. The folks at ARFCOM sent you to the right place.


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Unread 07/27/2015, 08:50 PM   #7
Scoted
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReefinRambo View Post
In regards to probes you are referring to measuring the different levels correct? What is the difference between that and a controller?
I was referring to buying an American Marine Pinpoint pH Monitor for 100 dollars only to buy an Apex controller with a ph probe included.
As a live and learn reefer I have discovered issues I didn't even know existed. For example a reef ready tank that comes with a Dorso drain which is loud(at least with a basement sump) And the directions on the tank say to glue the pvc drain inside the overflow. Which makes it difficult to alter to a Herbie with a running system. My point is it's easier to research things now before you buy equipment. Take the money you save and buy a new tank and then spend countless hours debating which coral to put where. Best of luck!!


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Unread 07/27/2015, 09:32 PM   #8
billsreef
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Bring the GE Silicone II back to the store, it's the wrong stuff. You want the plain old GE Silicone I. Need to get all the old silicone off from all the seams, and then reseal the entire thing.


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Unread 07/27/2015, 09:33 PM   #9
JoeVandal49
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Welcome from one ARFer to another.


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