Starting over after 20 years!

Shredded · 09/27/2015, 09:20 AM

So, started with a 20 gallon tank when I was 10. Two octopus, or is that octopi? That didn't go well, but I was hooked. I stuck with it for 30 years and in the end, had some pretty nice reef tanks before the wife decided that the money was better spent elsewhere. (Kids) 20 years later and the kids are grown and I am divorced. I am getting ready to build a new home and I have that itch again. But I am 20 years behind. We didn't have the internet for help back then. I believe in utilizing all my resources so, help guys. I am basically a beginner again. Not totally but I feel that way. I want to build a tank into the office wall so that while I work I can see it. One day while I was on Ebay, I saw a Marineland, 300 DD, still on the pallet, wrapped from the factory, 1000.00. So... 1000.00 lighter plus shipping it is sitting in my garage.

Sk8r · 09/27/2015, 09:26 AM

Good luck! Go with LEDs if possible, if you're just starting a reef. Sump, decent skimmer, etc., all that.
The SETTING UP folder will bring you current with the tech: I had only a 5 year gap when I re-started, and even that was a shocker.

SoloGarth · 09/27/2015, 09:37 AM

Sounds like fun. I am looking forward to building my next setup. It will be a while though . . .

So yeah LED lighting or a mix,
I love the maxspect gyre pumps as they get the whole volume of water rotating. Also DC return and skimmer pumps are the way to go. Less power consumption and adjustable. Also in my next build I will be using some of that fake reef rock 2.0. It comes in purple. I will then try my hardest to prevent the introduction of coralline algae. Speaking of that QT everything, tank transfer all fish and dip in Bayer any corals.

Looking forward to seeing how your setup progresses.

Shredded · 09/27/2015, 09:50 AM

Thanks Sk8r! ..... OK, so.... Friday... I made the down payment on a Royal Exclusiv Dreambox sump. Maybe I should have posted here first to see what everyone thought, but I kept going back to it and staring at it. I had been bugging Torsten by email for awhile and I finally went with the Set 5C with several upgrades.... Larger box... 2 return pumps (80 watt).... pre plumbed for another media chamber...larger water top off box... added lighting on the water top off box...and added Sock silencers. The filter comes with the Bubble King 200. Wanted the 250 but am so out of money. Girlfriend does not know what i spent on this and never will. Opinions? Besides stupid money...
This is it except a little wider box to accept the second return pump.

Shredded · 09/27/2015, 09:58 AM

OK, SoloGarth... We didn't have LEDs for lighting then.... I always had Metal Halide and Actinic combinations. Can they really compete? I have looked at the Kessil lights. What do you think of those? Torn on which direction to go.

Shredded · 09/27/2015, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoloGarth

Also in my next build I will be using some of that fake reef rock 2.0. It comes in purple. I will then try my hardest to prevent the introduction of coralline algae. Speaking of that QT everything, tank transfer all fish and dip in Bayer any corals.

OK, what's wrong with coraline algae? I thought getting everything covered in pinks and purples was the look you went for? Always quarantined but tank transfer and dipping corals? I am definitely behind. Explain?
thanks in advance!

Dkuhlmann · 09/27/2015, 10:48 AM

Beautiful equiptment, now what are you planning on for inhabitants? Reef or FOWLR, types of coral if reef and what fish do you have in mind.

The Kessil's are the top of the heap in lighting IMO. I don't have one I'm still with HO T5 and it works well. There are some very inexpensive LED Full spectrum 165 w on Ebay and fully adjustable delivered for around $80. I've got a buddy with a frag side business that has several of them and has had 0 issues with them. This is the way I'm going next time I need to change bulbs on my T5.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MarsAqua-Dim...3D311314776223

Sandrock.e46 · 09/27/2015, 10:59 AM

Welcome back to the club!

Shredded · 09/27/2015, 01:54 PM

Thanks Sandrock! Glad to be back. My bank account is not!

Dkuhlmann - Probably an SPS reef. small schooling fish, a few tangs and tridacna clams. Love to have a nicely colored Gigas as the center piece. Just got back from Tahiti a few months ago (date a travel agent) and the maximas were everywhere. Loved it.

dentnshell · 09/27/2015, 02:42 PM

20 years... A controller, your own RO and mixing station. When I re-dedicated to the hobby those two things were probably the biggest keys to success. I did convert to LED's at the same time, but the controller and the ability to see what the tank is doing when you are not there to "see" it. The historical data that a controller provides has definitely added to the stability of my tank.

Shredded · 09/27/2015, 02:59 PM

Dentnshell -
I have been looking at that. Is Apex the way to go? Should decide up front for future purchases for compatibility? I believe that I read that Red Dragon 3's are APEX ready. I don't fully understand the functionality yet but I wish that I had that 20 years ago.

dentnshell · 09/27/2015, 03:06 PM

I only have experience with APEX. My research quickly indicated that, that was the direction "I" should take. There are many on the forum loyal to there brand, and I am sure with good reason. If mine died today I would purchase another. It is a lot of money but I would start with the Gold. I currently have the "lite" version, but quickly added modules to the point I should have started bigger.
I see you are in OKC. I am not sure what you LFS supports. I am in Tulsa my LFS is a Neptune dealer. Depending on your computer skills that may be a factor.
I have helped a few, as have many others on this forum, get there apex up and going. If you need any help I would be more than happy to do what I can.

Shredded · 09/27/2015, 05:53 PM

Dentnshell -
Actually, I haven't even looked at finding an LFS yet. It's been so long that all the ones i used to deal with are long gone. I think there is one down off I-40. Will have to start looking. I will be in Tulsa on Tuesday for a few days. Who is your LFS. I will go look. I am trying to have all the major equipment purchased and ready when the house is ready. I am sure the house will take all my extra money during construction. I need to think about lighting next but the controller is definitely up there. Actually, I used to be a programmer so computer skills are decent. Project manager now. I never turn down help tho.

SoloGarth · 09/27/2015, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shredded

OK, what's wrong with coraline algae? I thought getting everything covered in pinks and purples was the look you went for? Always quarantined but tank transfer and dipping corals? I am definitely behind. Explain?

thanks in advance!

Nothing wrong with it necessarily. I just spend too much time trying to clean it off the glass and pumps. I prefer the flat black background. IMO coralline is minor pest. I'd rather just buy some purple rock and not have to constantly be scraping and dissolving it off everything.

As for tank transfer it is a method to deal with ich. Easy to do and effective and not too hard on the fish. Should be done during the beginning of QT. this tread contain good info.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1996525

I dip all corals in Bayer Advanced complete insect killer it is highly effective in killing off pest.

dentnshell · 09/27/2015, 06:36 PM

Shredded,
As a programmer you will have absolutely no problems. I personally do a good deal of business online as well, but the guys at Ultimate Reefs, have been in business for about 12 years. They specialize in Saltwater, ok actually salt is all they do. They are just three guys that enjoy the hobby.
I like my apex, I have a wxm module to control my Ecotech Radions. I love being able to control everything from one interface. Having LED's has been so nice not having to worry about heat, or is the algae bloom due to water or because my VHO's are aging???

I did saltwater and mixed reef, for the most part unsuccessfully for about 18 years. The last 3 years I have gone more or less all in with a controller, LED's, Plumbing my RO water through the attic to the ATO. I have a dedicated salt mixing container on wheels. - No more mixing in 5 gallons buckets! I can assure you my next home will have a dedicated fish room.

All the years in the past of cleaning canister filters and scrapping glass are gone. Using good water, a good skimmer, a controller, auto top off. My tank looks so much better, is much more successful and easier to maintain.

I recently changed from an old oceanic 105 to a DSA 105. The clarity of the class is so much better. I am amazed at how much the glass tint (green) in the old tank changed the way my reef looked. At that time I changed from a Durso overflow to a herbie style... It is amazing how much quieter things are. The tank is in my living room as it has been since I began. I can't recommend a herbie or similar setup enough.

Also I have a dedicated QT tank.... Something I did not have in the past. It is a simple 10 gal tank with some old bio wheels, but has save the display tank more than once.

SoloGarth · 09/27/2015, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shredded

OK, SoloGarth... We didn't have LEDs for lighting then.... I always had Metal Halide and Actinic combinations. Can they really compete? I have looked at the Kessil lights. What do you think of those? Torn on which direction to go.

Yes they certainly can compete. Of course if operating costs are of no importance . . . Honestly each lighting type has its pros and cons. I feel that for me LEDs make the most sense. I have had good growth and excellent color under them.

Don't have any personal experience with Kessil but I have heard good things.

stingeragent · 09/27/2015, 08:05 PM

That sump is insane. Whats the MSRP on that?

Aframomum · 09/27/2015, 09:48 PM

Welcome back, quite a hiatus you had there!

Do a search here for Marineland tanks, esp over the size of 120 gallons. There are some reports of tanks failing so just a heads up for you.

Also do a search for Herbie and BeanAnimal overflow methods. These are routinely used (Bean more so) to quiet down the loud sound of water dropping into the sump.

About the rock...many have started to use non-alive reef rock as their starting point. Its usually stark white and has the benefit of no unwanted hitchhikers. It gets covered in coralline in time. Live rock is still around and still used, even have aquacultured rock available now.

LED's have come a long way and halides are still around, along with T5's. Just have to do your research and weigh the pro's and con's of both. It is a heated topic to say the least, kinda like Deep Sand Beds and barebottoms.

Time to give that wallet a break!

Mark

Cdodge1 · 09/27/2015, 10:27 PM

First, welcome back to the hobby shredded! Glad to hear about the new tank. So far you are off to a great start! Superb choice on the sump and aquarium. Also I find it difficult to digest that your first tank ever had octopi!! Wow!

Apex's are great, I used to own one. However they are not needed and can always be incorporated later into your setup. So if you want to postpone spending an extra $500-$700 , I'd recommend waiting, but it's entirely up to you!

I'll preface this next suggestion with the fact that I am a die-hard ecotech fan. Ecotech manufactures (in my opinion) the best of the best lighting, flow, and return pump equipment in this hobby. They also have had great customer support in my experience and also what I have heard from others.

With all that being said, I'd say go with the Ecotech XR30 LED lights for your tank. You can contact ecotech with the dimensions of your tank and they will give you a recommendation on placement and such, and if one or two XR30's will be sufficient for your tank.

With LED's, gone are the days of bulky metal halides blowing up your electricity bill and making your room 15 degrees hotter! haha

Ecotech will also be able to provide information on flow needs in your size tank, and can recommend a solution accordingly. The best part about their equipment, other than the sleek aesthetics, is the fact that it's all wirelessly programmable/controllable through your computer or phone!

Just my two cents! I'd love to see an official build thread for this tank! Best of luck and glad to see someone getting back in the hobby after so long.

-Chris

Cdodge1 · 09/27/2015, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dentnshell

... but the controller and the ability to see what the tank is doing when you are not there to "see" it. The historical data that a controller provides has definitely added to the stability of my tank.

I will say that this was always a very powerful thing to have access to at anytime you wanted, especially if you will be away from the tank for long periods. I have a much smaller tank and I rarely leave it unattended for longer than 3-4 days with no problems...so far.

mitchb · 09/28/2015, 12:43 AM

I recently got back into the hobby with a 60 gallon tank and was anxious to try all the new stuff, so I did. The Apex control is worth it. Bought a Kessil A360 and run it in combination with a 150 watt hqi metal halide I still had from 7 years ago. The combination of both with the control of the Apex is fantastic. Recently bought the new Waveline DC pump(apex ready) and use it as both my return pump and as an additional wave maker with three different variations programmed over 24 hour period. Ramping up lighting and then down, a moonlight that follows the lunar cycle, and of course, total control of pumps such as Tunze. Even though the less technical way works fine, for me the latest technology adds interest. Go for it and have fun.

Shredded · 09/28/2015, 07:53 AM

Stingeragent - I got carried away. I tried to just buy the base unit but I wasn't happy with a couple of things and I thought the return pump was too small for the size of the tank so I added the second one. When I added that, it required reprogramming of the CNC machine. Then, the top off tank did not come with the lighting like the sump so I added that. Then the engineer said that the second pump was going to be a tight fit but would work but recommended going to the 60cm box (wider)... so we went with the wider box. Then, I realized, the matching water top off unit was now not as wide, so I upgraded to the matching 60 cm top off box. Lastly, I wanted to modify one of the inputs to a different size and that required reprogramming of the CNC machine.... so, when it came down to it, about 4350 Euros, plus the conversion to dollars (about 15%) so... 5000.00 plus shipping (about 500.00) Wow, do not like seeing that number in print.

Shredded · 09/28/2015, 08:49 AM

dentnshell - You opened the door on something I wanted to discuss. I know this has probably been beat to death but let's talk overflows. I don't want to change from the corner overflows and I found out after the fact that Marineland only drills for a 1" bulkhead. Here is what I have done so far. AGAIN threw money at the problem. I searched and searched and finally found a bulkhead fitting in England that has male threads on both sides (1-1/4" imperial) so it mates perfectly to a 1-1/4" straight thread(not tapered) PVC female adapter. The bore thru the fitting is a full 1-1/4 inches with no obstructions. So, I have turned the 1" drain into a 1-1/4 inch drain. If you go by a standard maximum flow chart the difference in gallons per hour is significant. (almost double)
After doing some reading here, I was a stalker here for a while before I posted, I guess what I am doing would be what you all refer to as a modified Bean Animal. Facing the tank in the right overflow, I have one full siphon and one open channel. The open channel tube is attached to a tiny bulkhead fitting drilled into the frame edge around the tank so if the water gets dangerously high it will seal and turn into a full siphon. In the left overflow, I have another full siphon and an emergency channel. So, just one additional full siphon as opposed to just one. I have done all of this in 1-1/2 clear PVC. I will be able to see the amount of overflow in the open channel to fine tune the flow. The two full siphons will exit the tank and will convert after the ball valve from 1-1/4" to 1-1/2 and combine right before entering the sump into a 2" fitting. The open channel and emergency channel will both convert after the bulkhead to 1-1/2 and have their own dedicated input to the sump. Again, all in clear PVC so that I can easily monitor the flow. I estimate being able to pull 3000 gallons per hour into the sump and the two pumps combined figuring a 2 meter head will push about 3000 gallons per hour and both are fully adjustable thru their dedicated controllers. OK, critique this....

jackson6745 · 09/28/2015, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shredded

OK, SoloGarth... We didn't have LEDs for lighting then.... I always had Metal Halide and Actinic combinations. Can they really compete? I have looked at the Kessil lights. What do you think of those? Torn on which direction to go.

If you do your homework you will see that the best reefs out there still used MH, T5, and LED/T5 hybrid. LED's are great on paper, but they have issues and the spread on popular fixture is no where near as advertised. I was a little overwhelmed when I got back in the hobby as well. You'll make sense of it all soon enough, and appreciate the equipment choices that we have now compared to 20 years ago. Good luck!

Shredded · 09/28/2015, 09:48 AM

Cdodge1 - I would love to start an official build thread on the tank. I figured I would wait though until the house begins construction so that we actually have movement going forward. That way I can get everyone's input on the circuits, plumbing and drains. Right now, just trying to accumulate the supplies and equipment so when we do this, we have it all. The expense is nuts so I am spreading it out before I build. The cost of clear PVC fittings and pipe is outrageous but looks so cool. Want to do this right. I didn't want to drag a build thread out for a year and bore everyone.

09/27/2015, 09:26 AM	#2
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	Good luck! Go with LEDs if possible, if you're just starting a reef. Sump, decent skimmer, etc., all that. The SETTING UP folder will bring you current with the tech: I had only a 5 year gap when I re-started, and even that was a shocker. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

09/27/2015, 09:37 AM	#3
SoloGarth Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Otis, MA Posts: 1,126	Starting over after 20 years! Sounds like fun. I am looking forward to building my next setup. It will be a while though . . . So yeah LED lighting or a mix, I love the maxspect gyre pumps as they get the whole volume of water rotating. Also DC return and skimmer pumps are the way to go. Less power consumption and adjustable. Also in my next build I will be using some of that fake reef rock 2.0. It comes in purple. I will then try my hardest to prevent the introduction of coralline algae. Speaking of that QT everything, tank transfer all fish and dip in Bayer any corals. Looking forward to seeing how your setup progresses. __________________ 120G Miracles Starfire SPS system Calcium Rx, Bio Pellets, Radions and Gyres My Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2549420

09/27/2015, 10:48 AM	#7
Dkuhlmann Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 8,823	Beautiful equiptment, now what are you planning on for inhabitants? Reef or FOWLR, types of coral if reef and what fish do you have in mind. The Kessil's are the top of the heap in lighting IMO. I don't have one I'm still with HO T5 and it works well. There are some very inexpensive LED Full spectrum 165 w on Ebay and fully adjustable delivered for around $80. I've got a buddy with a frag side business that has several of them and has had 0 issues with them. This is the way I'm going next time I need to change bulbs on my T5. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MarsAqua-Dim...3D311314776223 __________________ Previous tanks: 200 gal fowlr 9" Emperor Angel and many different butterfly fish 4" maroon clown and several other fish, 50 gal sump, 40 gal mixed reef/fish mostly softies and LPS. Current Tank Info: 40b 750 gph 45 lbs lr, 2"-3" sand, 165w full spectrum dimable LED, 20 gal sump/refugium 30 lbs lr, Bak Pak 2 skimmer, 4" sock temp 79-80, sg 1.026, NH3 0, NO2 0, NO3 <10, ph 8.2, calc 400, mag 1300

09/27/2015, 02:42 PM	#10
dentnshell Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 104	20 years... A controller, your own RO and mixing station. When I re-dedicated to the hobby those two things were probably the biggest keys to success. I did convert to LED's at the same time, but the controller and the ability to see what the tank is doing when you are not there to "see" it. The historical data that a controller provides has definitely added to the stability of my tank. __________________ DSA 105 Current Tank Info: DSA rimless 105

09/27/2015, 03:06 PM	#12
dentnshell Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 104	I only have experience with APEX. My research quickly indicated that, that was the direction "I" should take. There are many on the forum loyal to there brand, and I am sure with good reason. If mine died today I would purchase another. It is a lot of money but I would start with the Gold. I currently have the "lite" version, but quickly added modules to the point I should have started bigger. I see you are in OKC. I am not sure what you LFS supports. I am in Tulsa my LFS is a Neptune dealer. Depending on your computer skills that may be a factor. I have helped a few, as have many others on this forum, get there apex up and going. If you need any help I would be more than happy to do what I can. __________________ DSA 105 Current Tank Info: DSA rimless 105

09/27/2015, 09:58 AM	#5
Shredded Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 110	OK, SoloGarth... We didn't have LEDs for lighting then.... I always had Metal Halide and Actinic combinations. Can they really compete? I have looked at the Kessil lights. What do you think of those? Torn on which direction to go.

09/27/2015, 10:59 AM	#8
Sandrock.e46 Registered Member Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 35	Welcome back to the club!

09/27/2015, 01:54 PM	#9
Shredded Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 110	Thanks Sandrock! Glad to be back. My bank account is not! Dkuhlmann - Probably an SPS reef. small schooling fish, a few tangs and tridacna clams. Love to have a nicely colored Gigas as the center piece. Just got back from Tahiti a few months ago (date a travel agent) and the maximas were everywhere. Loved it.

09/27/2015, 02:59 PM	#11
Shredded Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 110	Dentnshell - I have been looking at that. Is Apex the way to go? Should decide up front for future purchases for compatibility? I believe that I read that Red Dragon 3's are APEX ready. I don't fully understand the functionality yet but I wish that I had that 20 years ago.

09/27/2015, 05:53 PM	#13
Shredded Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 110	Dentnshell - Actually, I haven't even looked at finding an LFS yet. It's been so long that all the ones i used to deal with are long gone. I think there is one down off I-40. Will have to start looking. I will be in Tulsa on Tuesday for a few days. Who is your LFS. I will go look. I am trying to have all the major equipment purchased and ready when the house is ready. I am sure the house will take all my extra money during construction. I need to think about lighting next but the controller is definitely up there. Actually, I used to be a programmer so computer skills are decent. Project manager now. I never turn down help tho.

09/27/2015, 06:36 PM	#15
dentnshell Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 104	Shredded, As a programmer you will have absolutely no problems. I personally do a good deal of business online as well, but the guys at Ultimate Reefs, have been in business for about 12 years. They specialize in Saltwater, ok actually salt is all they do. They are just three guys that enjoy the hobby. I like my apex, I have a wxm module to control my Ecotech Radions. I love being able to control everything from one interface. Having LED's has been so nice not having to worry about heat, or is the algae bloom due to water or because my VHO's are aging??? I did saltwater and mixed reef, for the most part unsuccessfully for about 18 years. The last 3 years I have gone more or less all in with a controller, LED's, Plumbing my RO water through the attic to the ATO. I have a dedicated salt mixing container on wheels. - No more mixing in 5 gallons buckets! I can assure you my next home will have a dedicated fish room. All the years in the past of cleaning canister filters and scrapping glass are gone. Using good water, a good skimmer, a controller, auto top off. My tank looks so much better, is much more successful and easier to maintain. I recently changed from an old oceanic 105 to a DSA 105. The clarity of the class is so much better. I am amazed at how much the glass tint (green) in the old tank changed the way my reef looked. At that time I changed from a Durso overflow to a herbie style... It is amazing how much quieter things are. The tank is in my living room as it has been since I began. I can't recommend a herbie or similar setup enough. Also I have a dedicated QT tank.... Something I did not have in the past. It is a simple 10 gal tank with some old bio wheels, but has save the display tank more than once. __________________ DSA 105 Current Tank Info: DSA rimless 105

09/27/2015, 08:05 PM	#17
stingeragent Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Posts: 1,032	That sump is insane. Whats the MSRP on that?

09/27/2015, 09:48 PM	#18
Aframomum Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Clermont, FL (outside Orlando) Posts: 862	Welcome back, quite a hiatus you had there! Do a search here for Marineland tanks, esp over the size of 120 gallons. There are some reports of tanks failing so just a heads up for you. Also do a search for Herbie and BeanAnimal overflow methods. These are routinely used (Bean more so) to quiet down the loud sound of water dropping into the sump. About the rock...many have started to use non-alive reef rock as their starting point. Its usually stark white and has the benefit of no unwanted hitchhikers. It gets covered in coralline in time. Live rock is still around and still used, even have aquacultured rock available now. LED's have come a long way and halides are still around, along with T5's. Just have to do your research and weigh the pro's and con's of both. It is a heated topic to say the least, kinda like Deep Sand Beds and barebottoms. Time to give that wallet a break! Mark __________________ It can fly inverted Current Tank Info: no current tanks running

09/27/2015, 10:27 PM	#19
Cdodge1 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Tampa Palms Posts: 649	First, welcome back to the hobby shredded! Glad to hear about the new tank. So far you are off to a great start! Superb choice on the sump and aquarium. Also I find it difficult to digest that your first tank ever had octopi!! Wow! Apex's are great, I used to own one. However they are not needed and can always be incorporated later into your setup. So if you want to postpone spending an extra $500-$700 , I'd recommend waiting, but it's entirely up to you! I'll preface this next suggestion with the fact that I am a die-hard ecotech fan. Ecotech manufactures (in my opinion) the best of the best lighting, flow, and return pump equipment in this hobby. They also have had great customer support in my experience and also what I have heard from others. With all that being said, I'd say go with the Ecotech XR30 LED lights for your tank. You can contact ecotech with the dimensions of your tank and they will give you a recommendation on placement and such, and if one or two XR30's will be sufficient for your tank. With LED's, gone are the days of bulky metal halides blowing up your electricity bill and making your room 15 degrees hotter! haha Ecotech will also be able to provide information on flow needs in your size tank, and can recommend a solution accordingly. The best part about their equipment, other than the sleek aesthetics, is the fact that it's all wirelessly programmable/controllable through your computer or phone! Just my two cents! I'd love to see an official build thread for this tank! Best of luck and glad to see someone getting back in the hobby after so long. -Chris __________________ Excellence isn't achieved in one swift action. It is the summation of hundreds or even thousands of small tasks, done well.

09/28/2015, 12:43 AM	#21
mitchb Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Posts: 55	I recently got back into the hobby with a 60 gallon tank and was anxious to try all the new stuff, so I did. The Apex control is worth it. Bought a Kessil A360 and run it in combination with a 150 watt hqi metal halide I still had from 7 years ago. The combination of both with the control of the Apex is fantastic. Recently bought the new Waveline DC pump(apex ready) and use it as both my return pump and as an additional wave maker with three different variations programmed over 24 hour period. Ramping up lighting and then down, a moonlight that follows the lunar cycle, and of course, total control of pumps such as Tunze. Even though the less technical way works fine, for me the latest technology adds interest. Go for it and have fun. __________________ I guess I am an old-timer now. Recently back in the hobby. May 1998 Aquarium Frontiers TOTM for 240g SPS. One of Steve Tyree's original Reef Farmers. Volunteer Aquarist at Birch Aquarium at Scripps

09/28/2015, 07:53 AM	#22
Shredded Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 110	Stingeragent - I got carried away. I tried to just buy the base unit but I wasn't happy with a couple of things and I thought the return pump was too small for the size of the tank so I added the second one. When I added that, it required reprogramming of the CNC machine. Then, the top off tank did not come with the lighting like the sump so I added that. Then the engineer said that the second pump was going to be a tight fit but would work but recommended going to the 60cm box (wider)... so we went with the wider box. Then, I realized, the matching water top off unit was now not as wide, so I upgraded to the matching 60 cm top off box. Lastly, I wanted to modify one of the inputs to a different size and that required reprogramming of the CNC machine.... so, when it came down to it, about 4350 Euros, plus the conversion to dollars (about 15%) so... 5000.00 plus shipping (about 500.00) Wow, do not like seeing that number in print. Last edited by Shredded; 09/28/2015 at 07:54 AM. Reason: mispelling

09/28/2015, 08:49 AM	#23
Shredded Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 110	dentnshell - You opened the door on something I wanted to discuss. I know this has probably been beat to death but let's talk overflows. I don't want to change from the corner overflows and I found out after the fact that Marineland only drills for a 1" bulkhead. Here is what I have done so far. AGAIN threw money at the problem. I searched and searched and finally found a bulkhead fitting in England that has male threads on both sides (1-1/4" imperial) so it mates perfectly to a 1-1/4" straight thread(not tapered) PVC female adapter. The bore thru the fitting is a full 1-1/4 inches with no obstructions. So, I have turned the 1" drain into a 1-1/4 inch drain. If you go by a standard maximum flow chart the difference in gallons per hour is significant. (almost double) After doing some reading here, I was a stalker here for a while before I posted, I guess what I am doing would be what you all refer to as a modified Bean Animal. Facing the tank in the right overflow, I have one full siphon and one open channel. The open channel tube is attached to a tiny bulkhead fitting drilled into the frame edge around the tank so if the water gets dangerously high it will seal and turn into a full siphon. In the left overflow, I have another full siphon and an emergency channel. So, just one additional full siphon as opposed to just one. I have done all of this in 1-1/2 clear PVC. I will be able to see the amount of overflow in the open channel to fine tune the flow. The two full siphons will exit the tank and will convert after the ball valve from 1-1/4" to 1-1/2 and combine right before entering the sump into a 2" fitting. The open channel and emergency channel will both convert after the bulkhead to 1-1/2 and have their own dedicated input to the sump. Again, all in clear PVC so that I can easily monitor the flow. I estimate being able to pull 3000 gallons per hour into the sump and the two pumps combined figuring a 2 meter head will push about 3000 gallons per hour and both are fully adjustable thru their dedicated controllers. OK, critique this....

09/28/2015, 09:48 AM	#25
Shredded Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 110	Cdodge1 - I would love to start an official build thread on the tank. I figured I would wait though until the house begins construction so that we actually have movement going forward. That way I can get everyone's input on the circuits, plumbing and drains. Right now, just trying to accumulate the supplies and equipment so when we do this, we have it all. The expense is nuts so I am spreading it out before I build. The cost of clear PVC fittings and pipe is outrageous but looks so cool. Want to do this right. I didn't want to drag a build thread out for a year and bore everyone.