Homebrewdude RODI Setup - and results

[homebrewdude]

Just like my last house, I wanted an RODI system for drinking, brewing beer and the reef tank.
I have done this before, so I wanted to piece something together.

This is what I have:

75gpd RO Membrane (cheap one, when system is set and stable I will switch to Dow)
3 canister filters.
5 micron carbon, 5 micron carbon for chloramine and 1micro floss
1 DI canister
3gal tank.
Plenty of water pressure at the house! I need to look into my regulator 75psi

I need to make a stand for the system, then I will post some photos.

[homebrewdude]

I received my BRS TDS meter last night.
Incoming water is 20
Out from RO unit is 3
Out from DI unit is 2

I am surprised my incoming is 20? Is that possible? I was close to 400 on the well water in my old house.

DI media is 10+ years old, was still sealed in a bag.
I bought refill media already, but I am surprised I am not seeing this drop down more?

[homebrewdude]

I tested the Chloramine.
This one surprised me.

Photos is tap water and after RODI unit.

I am not sure this is acceptable. I would assume it would be nothing?

[homebrewdude]

I tested Nitrate before and after the RODI
That looks normal, or nothing

[dkeller_nc]

You might get a little chlorine as total chlorine from the test coming through your carbon blocks. The carbon serves as a catalyst to break chloramine down into chlorine and ammonia, with the RO membrane removing 90% or more of it, and the DI resin removing any remaining.

I wouldn't be concerned about it until you replace your DI resin, presuming that your carbon blocks are new.

Yes, some locations that use surface waters as the municipal supply can have very low TDS. Here in central NC, the incoming TDS averages about 100 ppm, but can be much lower in the winter and spring - about 40 ppm.

[homebrewdude]

I am in South Carolina

[homebrewdude]

Does DI resin go bad after 10 years sealed on a shelf?

[dkeller_nc]

It could, yes. The backing material is polyvinylbenzene, which is subject to attack by oxygen. And almost all packaging material will allow oxygen through at a slow rate. Mixed bed resins are cheap - I'd just replace it to be on the safe side.

[alton]

I use dual Chloramine filters because my rural water company sometimes adds enough for swimming pool levels.

[homebrewdude]

I swapped out the DI. Now my TDS is 2 after running for 30min

[DDon]

Originally Posted by dkeller_nc

You might get a little chlorine as total chlorine from the test coming through your carbon blocks. The carbon serves as a catalyst to break chloramine down into chlorine and ammonia, with the RO membrane removing 90% or more of it, and the DI resin removing any remaining.

I wouldn't be concerned about it until you replace your DI resin, presuming that your carbon blocks are new.

Yes, some locations that use surface waters as the municipal supply can have very low TDS. Here in central NC, the incoming TDS averages about 100 ppm, but can be much lower in the winter and spring - about 40 ppm.

The reduction of chloramines in the carbon filter will be to chlorides not chlorine. The RO membrane will remove 90 -95% of the chlorides and he anion resin will remove the rest. Chlorides should not register on a total chlorine test. Total chlorine tests show chlorine compounds and free chlorine.

Homebrewdude,
Prior to running your test, rinse your test equipment with the water to be tested to ensure there is no contamination from another source. If you are still showing a chlorine residual after retest it would seem to me you are getting chloramines past your carbon blocks. RO and demin will not remove chloramines.

[outy]

my incoming water was 27 last night. so it is possible.

You should have zero outgoing.

[zachfishman]

Originally Posted by homebrewdude

I tested the Chloramine.
This one surprised me.

Photos is tap water and after RODI unit.

I am not sure this is acceptable. I would assume it would be nothing?

Switch to a good 1 micron carbon block or run dual 5mic. Chloramine is a bugger to get out.

[homebrewdude]

Made some changes to my RODI setup

I now have this:
CATALYTIC GRANULAR ACTIVATED CARBON
5 micron activated carbon
1 micro spun filter
Disconnected 3gal pressure tank
purged RO membrane for an hour.

TDS
18 incoming
0 out of RO
0 out of DI

On the left is my Chloromine test, it shows 0

[homebrewdude]

Not sure why the 3gal pressure tank makes my TDS readings worse.
I think I don't need it.

Considering my carbon is removing Chloramine, I don't need the RO membrane for drinking and beer brewing water.

My new plan:

Reef water will go through three filters, RO unit, DI unit then direct to 55gal drum.

Drinking/Beer water will go through same three first filters, then mineral add filter then direct for drinking.

[homebrewdude]

Now I am reading that the high flow without the RO filter might not work to reduce Chloramines... Always something that doesn't work out.

[homebrewdude]

I made up 55gal of RODI and it sat for 2 days.
I checked Chloromine and the test water was clear, but it did have a tint of pink in it.
Nothing like the full pink of the tap water.
I checked my tank for Chloromine and it showed nothing.

Think I should worry about this level in my RODI?
Try to correct it?

[homebrewdude]

Wonder if I should add another carbon cart?

[Buckeye Hydro]

Originally Posted by homebrewdude

Made some changes to my RODI setup

I now have this:
CATALYTIC GRANULAR ACTIVATED CARBON
5 micron activated carbon
1 micro spun filter
Disconnected 3gal pressure tank
purged RO membrane for an hour.

Is the list above the order in which the tap water goes through the filters?

In your case, we'd recommend this order:
1 micron sediment filter->
Chloraguard Carbon Block->
Chlorine Grabber Carbon Block->
RO->
DI

Russ