Replaced overflow flex hose with PVC

Irishman360 · 01/03/2016, 12:20 PM

So I just recently switched out my overflow hose with PVC pipe. It is creating a lot more bubbles in my sump then my flex hose did. Is this because that the water is filling up the whole area inside the PVC and it didn't in the flex hose? Would drilling a small hole in the top 90 degree PVC, highlighted in the picture, create more of a smooth flow to where I don't get a lot of bubbles shooting into my sump?

snulma1 · 01/03/2016, 07:18 PM

Depending on how long the pipes have been running, they may settle down after a slime coat has formed.
I would give it 2-3 weeks to see if it calms down

Irishman360 · 01/04/2016, 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snulma1

Depending on how long the pipes have been running, they may settle down after a slime coat has formed.
I would give it 2-3 weeks to see if it calms down

Awesome thanks for the info.

Captain smoke · 01/04/2016, 09:00 AM

I found that when I went to hard plumbing mine did the same. I also used 90* fitting and for a test I switched all my 90*s for two 45*s to make a nice turn and it helped a lot. For some reason 90s make a lot of noise.

If anything I would remove that last 90 and place it with a Tee fitting, on the top of the tee I would put a 4-6" pice of PVC with a cap and then drill the hole for the air to escape.

soulpatch · 01/04/2016, 02:05 PM

I agree with the others that you could wait it out for it to settle or replace the 90s with 2 45s to make the flow better and it easier for air to escape.

Irishman360 · 01/05/2016, 11:08 PM

Sweet. I'll give that a try tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

Mr.Tan · 01/06/2016, 11:45 AM

the only other reason you could be getting some small bubbles would be that something isn't fully sealed and air is getting sucked into the line.

Irishman360 · 01/07/2016, 09:31 PM

So I swapped out my 90 degree elbow and placed it with a T. I wasn't able to do a 45 due to the room under the stand I am working with. I have a small hole drilled in the cap (highlighted in yellow circle), started off small just in case I wanted to go bigger. My question is what/is there any benefit of having a bigger hole drilled in the cap for the water flow going in the tank?

Xxero · 01/07/2016, 10:39 PM

One thing to keep in mind is that a tiny hole will be prone to salt creep, thus closing off the hole. Just keep an eye on it during routine maintenance, and make sure that it is cleared out with a paperclip or similar.

soulpatch · 01/08/2016, 08:18 AM

Curious why you have that style 90 on there to begin with with the top cap portion. I would not have tapped a hole there in the plumbing. You have flow slamming that T and now you have created a spot for it to escape. You are asking for issues IMHO.

You know the spacing better then I but it looks like you shouldn't have had any issue getting rid of the drop in the first portion of the pip before the initial 90 degree, putting a 45 there, and putting a 45 to the sump.

You are trying to hack to fix issues with your plumbing instead of fixing the issue. Either you screwed up the plumbing by having a leak in it which is catching air in the system, you exhaust the drain above the water line in your sump causing bubbles, or you had air in the line and didnt give it time to purge.

I dont agree with punching a hole in drain plumbing where you did though. All you are doing is creating another avenue for either a leak or for air to be drawn into the line...

Irishman360 · 01/08/2016, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soulpatch

Curious why you have that style 90 on there to begin with with the top cap portion. I would not have tapped a hole there in the plumbing. You have flow slamming that T and now you have created a spot for it to escape. You are asking for issues IMHO.

You know the spacing better then I but it looks like you shouldn't have had any issue getting rid of the drop in the first portion of the pip before the initial 90 degree, putting a 45 there, and putting a 45 to the sump.

You are trying to hack to fix issues with your plumbing instead of fixing the issue. Either you screwed up the plumbing by having a leak in it which is catching air in the system, you exhaust the drain above the water line in your sump causing bubbles, or you had air in the line and didnt give it time to purge.

I dont agree with punching a hole in drain plumbing where you did though. All you are doing is creating another avenue for either a leak or for air to be drawn into the line...

I bought a 45 and looked into replacing the 90's with them. With the space being so small and my sump being a tall sump, the first 45 coming out of the bulk head from the overflow would be going directly into my first baffle and wouldn't clear it so that's why I didn't use the 45's otherwise I would.

I don't have any leaks in the plumbing either, I have no water drips from the pipe and my floor isn't wet.

soulpatch · 01/08/2016, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Irishman360

I bought a 45 and looked into replacing the 90's with them. With the space being so small and my sump being a tall sump, the first 45 coming out of the bulk head from the overflow would be going directly into my first baffle and wouldn't clear it so that's why I didn't use the 45's otherwise I would.

Exactly why did you switch from the flex line again? I would use spa flex and call it a day which avoids these angles and the issues you have with air.

Quote:

I don't have any leaks in the plumbing either, I have no water drips from the pipe and my floor isn't wet.

Yet should have been added to your above statement. You have water coming down a pipe and at the end you have drilled a hole above it. You have added a path for water to escape.

You can not confirm you have no leaks in your plumbing. It might not pass water right now but the air in your line comes from somewhere. The small cap on the 90 you had before would have only flowed air for a couple days at worst till it was purged. So to continue to have air means you most likely have another leak.

If you are hell bent on that T being your savoir then go to Lowes, BRS, HD, or anywhere and grab a thread bushing and a NPT fitting. You can attach a hose line to is and drape that into your sump below the water line. That way it will self purge but not be a hazard to leak...

Irishman360 · 01/08/2016, 05:40 PM

Well my overflow plumbing isn't fully submerged under water, could that be why I'm getting the air down my PVC? This is the original plumbing when I first got the tank and I didn't do any changes to it at all. Opinions about this would be appreciated since other reefers have more experience in this than I do.

I switched over from the spa hose because I wanted it to look less cluttered and also so it wasn't in my way when I am doing maintenance.

01/04/2016, 02:05 PM	#5
soulpatch Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Downingtown, PA Posts: 4,017	I agree with the others that you could wait it out for it to settle or replace the 90s with 2 45s to make the flow better and it easier for air to escape. __________________ 150 SC tank build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2550948 Some have bar tabs. I have a coral tab at my LFS. Life goals.

01/07/2016, 10:39 PM	#9
Xxero Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 1,054	One thing to keep in mind is that a tiny hole will be prone to salt creep, thus closing off the hole. Just keep an eye on it during routine maintenance, and make sure that it is cleared out with a paperclip or similar. __________________ "You Can Lead A Gift Horse To Water... But You Can't Make Him Look In Your Mouth." Current Tank Info: 65g Mixed Reef Display - 15g Macro Algae/Refugium - 40b Sump

01/08/2016, 08:18 AM	#10
soulpatch Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Downingtown, PA Posts: 4,017	Curious why you have that style 90 on there to begin with with the top cap portion. I would not have tapped a hole there in the plumbing. You have flow slamming that T and now you have created a spot for it to escape. You are asking for issues IMHO. You know the spacing better then I but it looks like you shouldn't have had any issue getting rid of the drop in the first portion of the pip before the initial 90 degree, putting a 45 there, and putting a 45 to the sump. You are trying to hack to fix issues with your plumbing instead of fixing the issue. Either you screwed up the plumbing by having a leak in it which is catching air in the system, you exhaust the drain above the water line in your sump causing bubbles, or you had air in the line and didnt give it time to purge. I dont agree with punching a hole in drain plumbing where you did though. All you are doing is creating another avenue for either a leak or for air to be drawn into the line... __________________ 150 SC tank build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2550948 Some have bar tabs. I have a coral tab at my LFS. Life goals.

01/03/2016, 07:18 PM	#2
snulma1 Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: New York, NY Posts: 2,281	Depending on how long the pipes have been running, they may settle down after a slime coat has formed. I would give it 2-3 weeks to see if it calms down

01/04/2016, 09:00 AM	#4
Captain smoke Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: somewhere in the midwest Posts: 227	I found that when I went to hard plumbing mine did the same. I also used 90* fitting and for a test I switched all my 90s for two 45s to make a nice turn and it helped a lot. For some reason 90s make a lot of noise. If anything I would remove that last 90 and place it with a Tee fitting, on the top of the tee I would put a 4-6" pice of PVC with a cap and then drill the hole for the air to escape.

01/05/2016, 11:08 PM	#6
Irishman360 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Brighton, CO Posts: 286	Sweet. I'll give that a try tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

01/06/2016, 11:45 AM	#7
Mr.Tan Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: York, PA Posts: 734	the only other reason you could be getting some small bubbles would be that something isn't fully sealed and air is getting sucked into the line.

01/07/2016, 09:31 PM	#8
Irishman360 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Brighton, CO Posts: 286	So I swapped out my 90 degree elbow and placed it with a T. I wasn't able to do a 45 due to the room under the stand I am working with. I have a small hole drilled in the cap (highlighted in yellow circle), started off small just in case I wanted to go bigger. My question is what/is there any benefit of having a bigger hole drilled in the cap for the water flow going in the tank?