Installing float switch in sealed drum

Brandon0034 · 01/08/2016, 12:03 PM

So I did a search and couldn't find specifically what I was looking for. My saltwater mixing station will consist of two 55 gallon food grade barrels and I'm wondering how to install the float switch.

If the top is sealed and I only have the two 2" screw tops how will I reach in to install a float switch? I don't want to cut off the top because that will defeat the purpose of having a sealed barrel to keep everything out. Thanks in advance for the insight.

Cymonous · 01/08/2016, 02:05 PM

and...how would you get the salt in the barrel too?

They do not have to be sealed. You will either have to cut off the tops or get different containers.

Vinny Kreyling · 01/08/2016, 02:35 PM

Sealed is not necessary, just a top for the container.

Shaummy · 01/08/2016, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cymonous

and...how would you get the salt in the barrel too?

They do not have to be sealed. You will either have to cut off the tops or get different containers.

Also if you ever needed to clean out your barrel...how are you planning to do that through the 2" access port?

Brandon0034 · 01/08/2016, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cymonous

and...how would you get the salt in the barrel too?

They do not have to be sealed. You will either have to cut off the tops or get different containers.

The two caps on top come off so I intended to just use a funnel and pour the salt in through there. Then I would connect the tanks on the bottoms with uniseals and an external pump. Literally the only thing I'm questioning is how to get the float switch installed.

I can purchase the 55 gallon drums sealed for only $10 a piece new so I would rather do that then buy the same sized plastic container for $100+. Once I pick them up I'll come up with something creative, maybe I'll drill the hole for the float switch and stick a clothes hanger through and bring it out the top.

I was just wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks on how to go about this because I've seen people will sealed barrels. Plus this will be in a shed so I'd rather keep it as sealed as possible.

billdogg · 01/08/2016, 03:03 PM

Here's what I did for mine.

First thing, turn it upside down. Turns out you can get PVC fittings to adapt the bung holes.

Nest - mark a line about 2" down from the (now) top at least 1/2 the way around, and a line straight across the top to connect the line.

Now - the fun part - I used a jigsaw - cut on the line to remove that half of the top (used to be the bottom)

You can make a easy plastic hinge for all of $2 to put it back on and keep it closed. Use a couple pieces of old milk carton (drink milk first!) that are about 4"x4". Get yourself 4 nylon nuts and bolts to fasten them on. They'll last about a year, then replace as needed.

My barrel has been set up that way for about 30 years. Easy access to the inside. For a long time, I used an old little giant pump that was plumbed under the barrel to mix and move the water. Now I just use the fittings on the bottom to drain it when I clean it out.

hth

Brandon0034 · 01/08/2016, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shaummy

Also if you ever needed to clean out your barrel...how are you planning to do that through the 2" access port?

The first barrel will be RO/DI water so I could fill the second barrel with RO water then churn and pump it back out. Also being sealed in a dark area I doubt that there will be much salt creep or build up of any kind. If it got bad enough then I could easily buy another barrel for $10 which is still much cheaper than buying the nicer $100+ from the start.

Brandon0034 · 01/08/2016, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billdogg

Here's what I did for mine.

First thing, turn it upside down. Turns out you can get PVC fittings to adapt the bung holes.

Nest - mark a line about 2" down from the (now) top at least 1/2 the way around, and a line straight across the top to connect the line.

Now - the fun part - I used a jigsaw - cut on the line to remove that half of the top (used to be the bottom)

You can make a easy plastic hinge for all of $2 to put it back on and keep it closed. Use a couple pieces of old milk carton (drink milk first!) that are about 4"x4". Get yourself 4 nylon nuts and bolts to fasten them on. They'll last about a year, then replace as needed.

My barrel has been set up that way for about 30 years. Easy access to the inside. For a long time, I used an old little giant pump that was plumbed under the barrel to mix and move the water. Now I just use the fittings on the bottom to drain it when I clean it out.

hth

How well does that stay sealed? I intend to keep this outside in the shed so I wouldn't want anything getting in. Also do you have any pictures of your DIY hinge?

billdogg · 01/08/2016, 05:27 PM

Sorry, no pictures. In fact, because mine is in the fish room in the basement, the last time the hinge broke I didn't bother replacing it. That was about 20 years ago, lol.

If you are careful and align the top - I duct taped mine in place and then drilled the holes for the hinges, it is plenty good enough to keep the inside clean.
*tip* tape the "hinges" in place where you want them and drill through everything at once to keep it all straight.

As for pictures of the hinge itself - think door hinges, just made out of milk jug plastic, so no hinge pin - they just flex back and forth.

Tarawa · 01/08/2016, 06:50 PM

I use something simmilar to this in my garbage can new saltwater container: http://www.fluidswitch.com/fh-viw-90...oat-switch.php you could drill the hole in the side of your barrel and then very carefully with some sort of tool/jig (i'm thinking a 2x4 with a hole in it to hold the switch), insert the switch into the drilled hole and slap on the retaining nut.

edit: Nah, thought of an easier way. feed string thru that hole, flip barrel upside down and tie that string to the floatswitch's wire and pull it thru. Lay the barrel on its side (hole up) and play with till it comes all the way up. =D

Redman88 · 01/22/2016, 07:22 AM

mount the float switches to PVC pipe and drop that down through the bung hole

Madehtsobi · 01/22/2016, 08:30 AM

You can fit the float valve through the bung hole but u need rig something up to hold it and get it into the hole from the outside of the barrel.

My setup is what you want to have...

The jig to hold the float valve from the inside

Top down of valve

Side view of float valve

Outside uniseals

This is the other barrel. You will have to cut out to get the pvc pipe in. My pvc comes inside through the uniseal on side and a 90 elbow and straight pipe goes all the way down

I don't mix any SW in them just straight rodi water. Easier to clean IMO.

01/08/2016, 12:03 PM	#1
Brandon0034 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 107	Installing float switch in sealed drum So I did a search and couldn't find specifically what I was looking for. My saltwater mixing station will consist of two 55 gallon food grade barrels and I'm wondering how to install the float switch. If the top is sealed and I only have the two 2" screw tops how will I reach in to install a float switch? I don't want to cut off the top because that will defeat the purpose of having a sealed barrel to keep everything out. Thanks in advance for the insight.

01/08/2016, 02:05 PM	#2
Cymonous My Clown Attacks Me Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Akron, OH Posts: 2,105	and...how would you get the salt in the barrel too? They do not have to be sealed. You will either have to cut off the tops or get different containers. __________________ 100 Gallon Long with 20L sump 10 Gallon Office Tank Current Tank Info: 2 False Percula Clowns, One Spot Foxface, Diamond Watchman Goby, Yellow Tail Damsel, Engineer Goby

01/08/2016, 02:35 PM	#3
Vinny Kreyling Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Miller Place, NY Posts: 7,206	Sealed is not necessary, just a top for the container. __________________ 250 gallon mixed reef, 2 Reefbreeder's Photon V 2, Deepwater BLDC 12, DAS EX-3 Skimmer, MTC mini cal, 2-3/4" Sea Swirls, Aquacontroller & 6 Tunze pumps.

01/08/2016, 03:03 PM	#6
billdogg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Grove City, Ohio Posts: 10,806	Here's what I did for mine. First thing, turn it upside down. Turns out you can get PVC fittings to adapt the bung holes. Nest - mark a line about 2" down from the (now) top at least 1/2 the way around, and a line straight across the top to connect the line. Now - the fun part - I used a jigsaw - cut on the line to remove that half of the top (used to be the bottom) You can make a easy plastic hinge for all of $2 to put it back on and keep it closed. Use a couple pieces of old milk carton (drink milk first!) that are about 4"x4". Get yourself 4 nylon nuts and bolts to fasten them on. They'll last about a year, then replace as needed. My barrel has been set up that way for about 30 years. Easy access to the inside. For a long time, I used an old little giant pump that was plumbed under the barrel to mix and move the water. Now I just use the fittings on the bottom to drain it when I clean it out. hth __________________ I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer

01/08/2016, 05:27 PM	#9
billdogg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Grove City, Ohio Posts: 10,806	Sorry, no pictures. In fact, because mine is in the fish room in the basement, the last time the hinge broke I didn't bother replacing it. That was about 20 years ago, lol. If you are careful and align the top - I duct taped mine in place and then drilled the holes for the hinges, it is plenty good enough to keep the inside clean. tip tape the "hinges" in place where you want them and drill through everything at once to keep it all straight. As for pictures of the hinge itself - think door hinges, just made out of milk jug plastic, so no hinge pin - they just flex back and forth. __________________ I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer

01/08/2016, 06:50 PM	#10
Tarawa Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Posts: 245	I use something simmilar to this in my garbage can new saltwater container: http://www.fluidswitch.com/fh-viw-90...oat-switch.php you could drill the hole in the side of your barrel and then very carefully with some sort of tool/jig (i'm thinking a 2x4 with a hole in it to hold the switch), insert the switch into the drilled hole and slap on the retaining nut. edit: Nah, thought of an easier way. feed string thru that hole, flip barrel upside down and tie that string to the floatswitch's wire and pull it thru. Lay the barrel on its side (hole up) and play with till it comes all the way up. =D

01/22/2016, 07:22 AM	#11
Redman88 Registered Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Artesia, NM Posts: 649	mount the float switches to PVC pipe and drop that down through the bung hole __________________ -Robert- 01101000 01100101 01101100 01101100 01101111 00100000 01110111 01101111 01110010 01101100 01100100

01/22/2016, 08:30 AM	#12
Madehtsobi Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: TX Posts: 208	You can fit the float valve through the bung hole but u need rig something up to hold it and get it into the hole from the outside of the barrel. My setup is what you want to have... The jig to hold the float valve from the inside Top down of valve Side view of float valve Outside uniseals This is the other barrel. You will have to cut out to get the pvc pipe in. My pvc comes inside through the uniseal on side and a 90 elbow and straight pipe goes all the way down I don't mix any SW in them just straight rodi water. Easier to clean IMO.