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01/12/2016, 03:18 PM | #1 |
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Marinepure bio blocks
Should I add them now to my system while its cycling or after. Does it really matter?
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01/12/2016, 03:24 PM | #2 |
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Honestly, they appear to be some sort of a pricey live rock substitute. If you have it, I'd stick with live rock, skip the "bio blocks," and just let your tank cycle naturally over the next few weeks. You'll then have a biological filter well-established and can skip the expense of those things.
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01/12/2016, 04:46 PM | #3 |
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^This. If you bought them, return them for store credit.
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
01/12/2016, 04:59 PM | #4 |
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^^ agree with both.
- ryan
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01/12/2016, 10:26 PM | #5 |
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There are a lot of snake oil products in this hobby but I don't think MarinePure falls into this category, especially their (blocks and plates).
MarinePure add a lot of surface area for bacteria same as LR. I think LR is better if you have the space in DT and/or sump for sufficient surface area. I think a big a** block in the sump allows for more minimal aquascapes (or BB tanks) while maintaining adequate biological filtration. I added a marinepure block to the sump in my 120g and nitrates went from a stable 5-10ppm to undetectable with Salifert N03 test kit - no other changes. Marinepure balls I would avoid just like other bio-balls. Trapping debris and detritus likely offsets any benefit. There are some reports of MP leaching aluminium but I don't think that was proved one way or the other. -droog |
01/13/2016, 01:11 AM | #6 |
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I've looked this over, and it does seem to have some merit. Give it a try and let us know. But do not figure it into your mandated 2 lbs per gallon live rock load.
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
01/13/2016, 08:40 AM | #7 |
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If you are going this route I would suggest skipping MarinePure and going with Sera Siproax. Stuff is much better IMO. I have the 8x8x4 block and several boxes of the spheres that MarinePure offers and they work but I fear they will become nitrate factories within a few years
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01/13/2016, 09:07 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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01/13/2016, 09:54 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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Fish are not disposable commodities, but a worthwhile investment that can be maintained and enjoyed for many years, providing one is willing to take the time to understand their requirements and needs Current Tank Info: 625g, 220g sump, RD3 230w, Vectra L1 on a closed loop, 3 MP60s, MP40. Several QTs |
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01/13/2016, 10:12 PM | #10 |
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I have a 8/8/4 block I put in my sump 2 weeks ago. Monitoring nitrates as we speak. Will post here with updates.
Corey |
08/29/2016, 09:55 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
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08/29/2016, 10:03 AM | #12 |
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They function as additional decent rock, nothing more or less. No miracles, just space for bacteria.
If you have unbreakable nitrate I can suggest a) water changes faithfully b) improve your skimmer c) definitely if you are not using ro/di---use ro/di d) NoPoX works well in some tanks: it is a form of carbon dosing, safe but may cause bacterial film.
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
08/29/2016, 10:10 AM | #13 |
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My plan is to use them in my sump as I like the look of a little less rock in the display tank.
Concerning them becoming nitrate factories I don't understand this. They do not produce nitrate from nothing. The bacteria in them break down the much more harmful ammonia and nitrite. If you want less nitrate start with less ammonia, or carbon dose.
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08/29/2016, 10:35 AM | #14 |
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What size block are you going to use?
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08/29/2016, 11:09 AM | #15 |
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I just put them in my refugium. My LFS is converting all their sumps with this
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08/29/2016, 11:10 AM | #16 | |
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Marinepure bio blocks
Quote:
This comment about nitrate factories usually implies that something would become a place for detritus to gather and rot, which would seem to be more likely for the balls than the blocks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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08/29/2016, 02:43 PM | #17 |
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I have 3 MarinePure bio blocks and I think you need more than they claim to get the best results.
I added Siporax to the sumps as well, this seems to be working for my tank. I added some brightwell blocks as well just to see what they do.
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08/29/2016, 02:48 PM | #18 |
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I use them to raise my skimmer up higher in my sump. I've got two of the 1" Blocks. Works pretty well, and allows me more room for having stuff going in in the sump.
Do they work better than rock? Dunno, still cycling, but I like the fact I'll be able to swap them into another system fully loaded with bacteria, and no waiting for a cycle.
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08/29/2016, 03:41 PM | #19 |
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Watch your skimmer with the blocks. They are very brittle and if I refer reading correctly, someone tried using a block as a skimmer stand and it disintegrated.
With that said, I started my new tank with 2 of the blocks in my sump. After the Initial cycle and high nitrates ( taken care of with a 90% WC) I still have 0 nitrates. Whether that's because of better husbandry with the new tank or the marine pure, I can't say for sure either way, but my pods love to live and breed in them. So that's a huge bonus with keeping a Mandy in my case.
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08/29/2016, 04:45 PM | #20 |
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Last year I added the large Marine Pure Block to my sump right where the overflow dumps into, and noticed a considerable nitrate reduction. I then relocated it to a second tank for an emergency setup. Since then I recently took it off line for a while and gave it a good cleaning in an oxy bath.
I currently now have it back in my DT sump, right where the water spills over into the return chamber. Sofar no complaints. There are rumors about the rock leaching aluminum back into the system overtime, but The Verdict is still out. Bulk Reef Supply runs it in their sump on their new BRS 160. maybe that will help with your decision.
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08/29/2016, 05:24 PM | #21 |
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For successful denitrification at higher rate you need to ensure these:-
1) Low dissolved or possibly none for denitrifying bacteria to do its job 2) Absent of lights where your blocks are placed 3) Very low flow, roughly 1% - 5% of total water volume I tried all possible method and I found out as long as the above are in place, your rocks will function as intended to.
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08/29/2016, 06:27 PM | #22 | |
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75 gallon DT, 5 gallon sump, DIY LED bar with moonlight, DIY Arduino controller Current Tank Info: 75 gallon/Arduino Controller |
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08/29/2016, 07:18 PM | #23 |
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Anyone ever try cutting them and lining the bottom of a tank with them? Possibly do a layer of 1" thick blocks then cover it with 1" or so of sand?
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08/29/2016, 08:43 PM | #24 | |
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08/30/2016, 04:16 AM | #25 |
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I plan on using these in my sump because they will take up less space then rocks. Going for the minimalist look in the DT. I don't expect any miracle from them. I think they will work just like rock. I could see stuff getting trapped if you don't place the blocks in a high flow area or something.
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