Quarantine tank ?

sirclintler · 01/20/2016, 07:16 PM

Hello everyone, Next up is the quarantine tank, I have read some litrature one being in the set up thread, I am a bit confused will i plum the QT into my DT? That doesent seem correct, Whats to keep the sickness from transfering?
I read thet the QT should be a temporary set up and should not include live rock/sand, how then does one establish a biofilter

gone fishin · 01/20/2016, 07:26 PM

A QT should be a stand alone system. sand and rock can adsorb medications making them not as effective.

Some folks will keep a sponge in their sump to get a bacteria colony growing then transfer it to the QT when needed. I personally do not. I rely on WC's and seachem prime to keep ammonia in check. Be advised that if you ever use copper do not use prime or something similar. This will create a toxic soup.

sirclintler · 01/20/2016, 07:52 PM

Ok the same article mentions tank size. I am working on a
125 gallon dt so per that article I should have a 30-40 gallon qt, but if I only add 1 coral or fish at a time why the need for such a big tank?

A.Astore · 01/20/2016, 07:57 PM

You are correct in that the QT is not connected to the DT in any way; in fact, I keep my QTs in a completely different room so that it is MUCH more difficult to cross contaminate equipment when being careless. You have to make sure everything that goes in the tank gets a separate one for QT and DT... nets (if that is what you use), pipettes, anything that goes in the water does not go from one to the other. If you are using a tank transfer approach then the water quality is a little easier to maintain so long as you aren't going crazy with food every day. The fish only stays in the one tank for less than 72 hours and then gets all new water for the next almost 72 hrs. Once all of the transfers are complete you can then use water changes (which is how I like to do it) or the sponge which has been populated with beneficial bacteria like mentioned above.

The nice thing about keeping the QT setup is that you don't have to leave it up all the time and can get it pulled together quick due to nothing being cycled to have it fish ready. Heater, air supply, water motion, and clean water (which matches salinity and temp) is all you need to be ready for the fish. I suggest keeping the QT very simple. Before you get your first fish make sure you know EXACTLY how you plan to approach the QT- TTM, meds, only certain meds, etc. There is nothing worse than realizing your fish has ICH and then you are winging how you want to approach it.

Indymann99 · 01/20/2016, 08:38 PM

Some ideas that might be helpful

QT plumbed for WC (but safe with air gap and no chance for QT water to get to DT). QT water changes take less than 5min. Can change with fresh SW or can use "used" DT water.

sirclintler · 01/21/2016, 05:31 AM

Thanks all this in a lot of good info

DavidGraves · 01/21/2016, 07:16 AM

Being new myself I was very worried about managing a non cycled QT. I have a 10 gallon and once you make it a habit to do daily water changes, don't overfeed, and suck up waste a few times its not too bad. I also use the pillow stuffing for filter floss. That way I can change it twice a day and once bag will last months.

Once piece of advice is to make sure you have the basic medications on hand on hand before you purchase any livestock. The last thing you want to do is be scrambling to diagnose AND purchase any needed medication.

billdogg · 01/21/2016, 07:35 AM

I keep a 20g tank and all the associated pieces parts on a shelf in the fish room. I can have it up and running in about 10 minutes. When I'm done with it it gets rinsed and put back on the shelf for next time. I keep a couple biowheels floating in the sump of one of my DT's for the HOB filter. If I would have to medicate with something stronger than Prazipro, the wheels will get tossed after use and new ones will go in to the sump for next time.

hth

gone fishin · 01/21/2016, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sirclintler

Ok the same article mentions tank size. I am working on a
125 gallon dt so per that article I should have a 30-40 gallon qt, but if I only add 1 coral or fish at a time why the need for such a big tank?

I have a couple 10g for TTM and the main QT is a 29g. I usually only do one fish at a time but I have done 2 on occasion and my purchases are usually on the smaller side. If your going to be purchasing large fish then you may want a larger QT. Good luck

sirclintler · 01/21/2016, 11:40 AM

Thank you for the luck and info its a bit over welming

Indymann99 · 01/21/2016, 05:01 PM

you should look into joining the Indiana club INDMAS. prob someone local who can show you the ropes

sirclintler · 01/21/2016, 05:23 PM

Yeah that would help, so far it's only youtube and reef central

oh207 · 01/21/2016, 11:28 PM

This is a good thread to ready.

Basic Quarantine FAQ's
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1846124

firemountain · 01/22/2016, 01:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gone fishin

I have a couple 10g for TTM and the main QT is a 29g. I usually only do one fish at a time but I have done 2 on occasion and my purchases are usually on the smaller side. If your going to be purchasing large fish then you may want a larger QT. Good luck

+1. My setup is the same. I keep a fully cycled QT with a few snails to clean the glass. The nice part about having a bigger QT is that if you ever have to move all of the fish out of your DT for any reason, you will have the room on hand.

01/20/2016, 07:16 PM	#1
sirclintler Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Indiana Posts: 267	Quarantine tank ? Hello everyone, Next up is the quarantine tank, I have read some litrature one being in the set up thread, I am a bit confused will i plum the QT into my DT? That doesent seem correct, Whats to keep the sickness from transfering? I read thet the QT should be a temporary set up and should not include live rock/sand, how then does one establish a biofilter

01/20/2016, 07:26 PM	#2
gone fishin Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Wyocena Wi Posts: 6,936	A QT should be a stand alone system. sand and rock can adsorb medications making them not as effective. Some folks will keep a sponge in their sump to get a bacteria colony growing then transfer it to the QT when needed. I personally do not. I rely on WC's and seachem prime to keep ammonia in check. Be advised that if you ever use copper do not use prime or something similar. This will create a toxic soup. __________________ Tony Current Tank Info: 180gal DT, BM NAC77 skimmer,3 Maxspect razors, Maxspect Gyre 150, 30g QT

01/20/2016, 08:38 PM	#5
Indymann99 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,447	Some ideas that might be helpful QT plumbed for WC (but safe with air gap and no chance for QT water to get to DT). QT water changes take less than 5min. Can change with fresh SW or can use "used" DT water. __________________ 120g DT 100lbs LR / 200 lbs LS, 45g fuge, VectraM1 Return, Herbie drain, 4x RW-8, 2x AI Hydra 26 w AWM, ASM G2, Apex controller, Apex BoB w floats ATO

01/21/2016, 07:35 AM	#8
billdogg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Grove City, Ohio Posts: 10,806	I keep a 20g tank and all the associated pieces parts on a shelf in the fish room. I can have it up and running in about 10 minutes. When I'm done with it it gets rinsed and put back on the shelf for next time. I keep a couple biowheels floating in the sump of one of my DT's for the HOB filter. If I would have to medicate with something stronger than Prazipro, the wheels will get tossed after use and new ones will go in to the sump for next time. hth __________________ I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer

01/21/2016, 05:01 PM	#11
Indymann99 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,447	you should look into joining the Indiana club INDMAS. prob someone local who can show you the ropes __________________ 120g DT 100lbs LR / 200 lbs LS, 45g fuge, VectraM1 Return, Herbie drain, 4x RW-8, 2x AI Hydra 26 w AWM, ASM G2, Apex controller, Apex BoB w floats ATO

01/20/2016, 07:52 PM	#3
sirclintler Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Indiana Posts: 267	Ok the same article mentions tank size. I am working on a 125 gallon dt so per that article I should have a 30-40 gallon qt, but if I only add 1 coral or fish at a time why the need for such a big tank?

01/20/2016, 07:57 PM	#4
A.Astore Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Waynesboro, VA Posts: 418	You are correct in that the QT is not connected to the DT in any way; in fact, I keep my QTs in a completely different room so that it is MUCH more difficult to cross contaminate equipment when being careless. You have to make sure everything that goes in the tank gets a separate one for QT and DT... nets (if that is what you use), pipettes, anything that goes in the water does not go from one to the other. If you are using a tank transfer approach then the water quality is a little easier to maintain so long as you aren't going crazy with food every day. The fish only stays in the one tank for less than 72 hours and then gets all new water for the next almost 72 hrs. Once all of the transfers are complete you can then use water changes (which is how I like to do it) or the sponge which has been populated with beneficial bacteria like mentioned above. The nice thing about keeping the QT setup is that you don't have to leave it up all the time and can get it pulled together quick due to nothing being cycled to have it fish ready. Heater, air supply, water motion, and clean water (which matches salinity and temp) is all you need to be ready for the fish. I suggest keeping the QT very simple. Before you get your first fish make sure you know EXACTLY how you plan to approach the QT- TTM, meds, only certain meds, etc. There is nothing worse than realizing your fish has ICH and then you are winging how you want to approach it.

01/21/2016, 05:31 AM	#6
sirclintler Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Indiana Posts: 267	Thanks all this in a lot of good info

01/21/2016, 07:16 AM	#7
DavidGraves Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: St. Louis MO Posts: 125	Being new myself I was very worried about managing a non cycled QT. I have a 10 gallon and once you make it a habit to do daily water changes, don't overfeed, and suck up waste a few times its not too bad. I also use the pillow stuffing for filter floss. That way I can change it twice a day and once bag will last months. Once piece of advice is to make sure you have the basic medications on hand on hand before you purchase any livestock. The last thing you want to do is be scrambling to diagnose AND purchase any needed medication.

01/21/2016, 11:40 AM	#10
sirclintler Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Indiana Posts: 267	Thank you for the luck and info its a bit over welming

01/21/2016, 05:23 PM	#12
sirclintler Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Indiana Posts: 267	Yeah that would help, so far it's only youtube and reef central

01/21/2016, 11:28 PM	#13
oh207 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Amityville, NY Posts: 762	This is a good thread to ready. Basic Quarantine FAQ's http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1846124 __________________ -oh207 Current Tank Info: DB 65g RR Tank, 30g Sump w sock & fuge, EHEIM 3000 Rtn. Pump, Araganite 40lbs, 40lbs base rock, 60lbs LR, EHEIM 150W Jager Heater, Ecotech MP40wES & MP10wES Vortech Propeller Pump, Ecotech Radion XR30w LED, Seaside Aquatics Protein Skimmer (CS7-150g)