Hanna Phosphate checker

[fernalfer]

I want one to check out the phosphates in the water for my curing rock. Which one do you get BRS has a ultra low range checker, low range checker, and high range checker

Which one should i get?

[drillsar]

Low range//

[ssobel80]

The low or ultra low will work. With the ultra low range you will be able to get lower readings. The ultra low tests at ppb and the other tests at ppm.

[Member No. 1]

Ultra low range. This will have more use once your tank is up and running.

[drillsar]

im hoping eventually they get a liquid reagent instead of powder a pain in the butt

[drillsar]

ugh maybe I should of got ultra low lol

[fernalfer]

thanks guys spending money right now just want to make sure i'm buying the right things

[ssobel80]

I have both and the only time I ever used the low range was when curing my BRS pukani, and even then it was only for the first two weeks. Once the levels were low enough I used the ultra low.

Now the low range only reads 0.00 every time I use it. I would suggest the ultra low it will be more useful in the long run. I don't remember exactly, but I believe it reads up to
200ppm. That is the equivalent of 0.2 if your readings are above that you need to lower them anyway and it doesn't really matter exactly what they are.

[vhuang168]

The ultra low range does NOT measure phosphate. It measures phosphorus in ppb. You have to do a conversion to get phosphate in ppm.

[fernalfer]

Originally Posted by vhuang168

The ultra low range does NOT measure phosphate. It measures phosphorus in ppb. You have to do a conversion to get phosphate in ppm.

Ok then which one would you suggest i get?

[Member No. 1]

Originally Posted by fernalfer

Ok then which one would you suggest i get?

The one we all said, ultra low range.
Simple take the reading and multiply by .03066 to convert phorsphus in ppb to phosphate in ppm.

[vhuang168]

Get the ULR Phosphrous meter. HI736.

Conversion is to multiple by 3.066 then divide by 1000.

Or use this chart

http://www.pny.se/aquarium/

[vhuang168]

Originally Posted by Member No. 1

The one we all said, ultra low range.

Simple take the reading and multiply by .03066 to convert phorsphus in ppb to phosphate in ppm.

U missed a 0. It's 0.003066

[Member No. 1]

Originally Posted by vhuang168

U missed a 0. It's 0.003066

Thank you for the correction. I was just seeing if you were paying attention!

[vhuang168]

Originally Posted by Member No. 1

Thank you for the correction. I was just seeing if you were paying attention!

Your welcome.

Always!

[fernalfer]

excellent thanks guys i ordered the ultra low range checker.

[crocogator106]

Originally Posted by vhuang168

Get the ULR Phosphrous meter. HI736.

Conversion is to multiple by 3.066 then divide by 1000.

Or use this chart

http://www.pny.se/aquarium/

Very nice, thanks!

[fernalfer]

What exactly is considered ok phosphate levels. I checked mine with the Ultra Low Phosphate checker and got 40. Used the conversion table and get 0.123 is that ok or bad?

[CStrickland]

Originally Posted by fernalfer

What exactly is considered ok phosphate levels. I checked mine with the Ultra Low Phosphate checker and got 40. Used the conversion table and get 0.123 is that ok or bad?

That's bad, but it could be worse.
Here's a chart I keep on my phone for parameter goals. It's from this article: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/

[fernalfer]

Originally Posted by CStrickland

That's bad, but it could be worse.
Here's a chart I keep on my phone for parameter goals. It's from this article: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/

Ok so i have Marco Rock in a Brute Container with RODI Saltwater with a powerhead and a heater. What is the best course of action to get the levels of phosphate down?

Water Changes? Using that chemical LC they use for pools? Want to get them down to acceptable levels before putting them in the tank.

[CStrickland]

If you're going to run gfo on your tank, you could get the reactor going now. LC is good for really high levels where gfo gets exhausted very quickly, but since you are not in such bad shape it might not be necessary.

[sfdan]

Since you have the rock in a separate container already, I think using LC would be easier and faster than having to set up a GFO reactor and replace the GFO as it gets exhausted. With LC you just put in a capful or two every day and within 1-2 weeks your phosphate will probably get down below to a decent level (<0.03).

[fernalfer]

Originally Posted by sfdan

Since you have the rock in a separate container already, I think using LC would be easier and faster than having to set up a GFO reactor and replace the GFO as it gets exhausted. With LC you just put in a capful or two every day and within 1-2 weeks your phosphate will probably get down below to a decent level (<0.03).

I think i will do the LC method. Question is some do water changes after they dose with LC and then dose again and repeat. Which can go through some time and a lot of salt. Or can you keep the rock in the same water and keep dosing until you are at acceptable levels?

[RayAllen3422]

Originally Posted by fernalfer

I think i will do the LC method. Question is some do water changes after they dose with LC and then dose again and repeat. Which can go through some time and a lot of salt. Or can you keep the rock in the same water and keep dosing until you are at acceptable levels?

I did LC treatments for about 4 weeks and never changed the water. My phosphates went from .5 to .05 during this period.

[DivingTheWorld]

Using LC is much cheaper than GFO. The drawback is the precipitate when you dose it. It looks like white snow in the water. But you're dosing in a separate container before your tank is started so it's not an issue. Just rinse the rock before adding it to your DT. Use LC.