Starting plumbing job today **Nervous**

fernalfer · 04/11/2016, 08:26 AM

Ok so i have a 120 gallon dual overflow tank 48x24x24. The overflows are in the center back not corners. I will start the plumbing at the bulkheads. The bulkheads are threaded so i bought thread to slip PVC piece that will screw into the bulk head. shown below:

The Pvc piece screws in fairly easy about 3/4 of the way then gets hard to screw in fast. Do i wait until it gets hard and maybe tighten a little more or do i use a wrench and tighten it all the way in? I will be using this on the threads:

http://www.oatey.com/products/thread...ound-with-ptfe

I bought Some Ultra Flex PVC that i will be using for most of the piping because of the fact it can be bent better then regular hard PVC and helps in installation. The problem is the stuff is so hard to stick into PVC elbows with out using the glue as lubricant, making dry fitting the job first tough. I supoose a lot of measuring will have to be done in hopes everything is cut just right.

Nervous because i do not want to mess this up. The last thing i want is a flood in my house.

If anyone has any tips on where to start the plumbing. From the bulkheads down to sump and return pump? Or start from the return pump and sump and work your way up to the bulkheads? Any tips to help me out and make me feel a little better about starting this project would be great.

GimpyFin · 04/11/2016, 08:37 AM

The threads taper a bit so it's designed to get harder the further it goes in. You don't want to tighten it too much or you can damage it. I'd also use either some thread tape or thread joint compound and you should be fine. I'd start by getting the wet side of the overflow plumbing and bulkheads in place and then work on the part underneath.

gigamanx · 04/11/2016, 08:41 AM

I can offer my experience that worked out perfectly, as in, no leaks.

I plumbed from the bulkheads and used threaded bulkheads also. Take teflon tape and go 5 times around the thread and screw it in. I didn't go much more than hand tight because I read that over-tightening can crack your bulkhead. Some people like to use silicone around the edge but I didn't bother.

Gluing is easier than it looks. I used this stuff..primer+glue. It takes literally about 30 seconds before you can't move the pipe anymore so make sure you're just doing one piece at a time and dry fit before gluing.

http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-30246-Re...words=pvc+glue

Finally, have a few unions in place so if you mess up, you can redo sections without having to redo it all. My fittings for a single bulk head were

cap + pipe + 45 + pipe + T slip/slip/slip + threaded/slip to bulkhead + pipe + 45 + union + pipe + gate valve + pipe + union + pipe + 45 + pipe + 45 + pipe + 45 + pipe into sump

I fit everything loosely first. Then took it all apart and laid it out on the ground in order...just started gluing from one union to the next so I could assemble as I went and double check things.

For testing I actually ran my return temporarily straight into the overflow. I ran water from a 5g bucket into the overflow and down the plumbing so I could test for leaks. I ran it about 48 hours before I was content. Quick and easy and the worst case scenario is 5 gallons of RO water on the floor

Good luck

fernalfer · 04/11/2016, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gigamanx

I can offer my experience that worked out perfectly, as in, no leaks.

I plumbed from the bulkheads and used threaded bulkheads also. Take teflon tape and go 5 times around the thread and screw it in. I didn't go much more than hand tight because I read that over-tightening can crack your bulkhead. Some people like to use silicone around the edge but I didn't bother.

Gluing is easier than it looks. I used this stuff..primer+glue. It takes literally about 30 seconds before you can't move the pipe anymore so make sure you're just doing one piece at a time and dry fit before gluing.

http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-30246-Re...words=pvc+glue

Finally, have a few unions in place so if you mess up, you can redo sections without having to redo it all. My fittings for a single bulk head were

cap + pipe + 45 + pipe + T slip/slip/slip + threaded/slip to bulkhead + pipe + 45 + union + pipe + gate valve + pipe + union + pipe + 45 + pipe + 45 + pipe + 45 + pipe into sump

I fit everything loosely first. Then took it all apart and laid it out on the ground in order...just started gluing from one union to the next so I could assemble as I went and double check things.

For testing I actually ran my return temporarily straight into the overflow. I ran water from a 5g bucket into the overflow and down the plumbing so I could test for leaks. I ran it about 48 hours before I was content. Quick and easy and the worst case scenario is 5 gallons of RO water on the floor

Good luck

I bought joint compound for the threads only because from reading most on here say teflon tape does not work as well.

davehead86 · 04/11/2016, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fernalfer

I bought joint compound for the threads only because from reading most on here say teflon tape does not work as well.

Teflon Tape is not recommended for PVC. Joint Compounds are recommended for threaded PVC. Trust me I busted enough PVC with that thread tape crap i won't be using it again.

kmbyrnes · 04/11/2016, 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davehead86

Teflon Tape is not recommended for PVC. Joint Compounds are recommended for threaded PVC. Trust me I busted enough PVC with that thread tape crap i won't be using it again.

This. I used compound after cracking a few bulkheads trying to stop leaking. Never using tape ever again.

Enjoy the process, you will look back on this part of your build with pride.

fernalfer · 04/12/2016, 09:57 AM

Drain Lines done.

Bent · 04/12/2016, 12:21 PM

Ive used PTFE tape on pvc threads for years without problems.

Hitch08 · 04/12/2016, 12:39 PM

Fern - Nice work!

homer1475 · 04/12/2016, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bent

Ive used PTFE tape on pvc threads for years without problems.

You always used to pick your nose too. Just because you can, or "it's worked for years", doesn't mean it's right. Steve posted a link a while back in another thread directly from plastic pipe manufacturer that explains why you shouldn't use Teflon tape.

GimpyFin · 04/12/2016, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by homer1475

You always used to pick your nose too. Just because you can, or "it's worked for years", doesn't mean it's right. Steve posted a link a while back in another thread directly from plastic pipe manufacturer that explains why you shouldn't use Teflon tape.

I still pick my nose.

gigamanx · 04/13/2016, 06:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davehead86

Teflon Tape is not recommended for PVC. Joint Compounds are recommended for threaded PVC. Trust me I busted enough PVC with that thread tape crap i won't be using it again.

I may be learning that lesson the hard way someday.

Bent · 04/13/2016, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by homer1475

You always used to pick your nose too. Just because you can, or "it's worked for years", doesn't mean it's right. Steve posted a link a while back in another thread directly from plastic pipe manufacturer that explains why you shouldn't use Teflon tape.

I still pick my nose in private. Gives me a sense of satisfaction to pull a big one out of there and feel it peel away from the inside of my nostril.

d0ughb0y · 04/13/2016, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bent

Ive used PTFE tape on pvc threads for years without problems.

I'd say there is more than one way to do it and the other way is just more idiot proof.

fernalfer · 04/13/2016, 06:15 PM

OK plumbing job complete. Feeling pretty good about it. Tell me what you guys think. Tried to limit the unions and the 90's for better flow. Used the Ultra Flex PVC which made it easier to work with.

04/11/2016, 08:26 AM	#1
fernalfer Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 553	Starting plumbing job today Nervous Ok so i have a 120 gallon dual overflow tank 48x24x24. The overflows are in the center back not corners. I will start the plumbing at the bulkheads. The bulkheads are threaded so i bought thread to slip PVC piece that will screw into the bulk head. shown below: The Pvc piece screws in fairly easy about 3/4 of the way then gets hard to screw in fast. Do i wait until it gets hard and maybe tighten a little more or do i use a wrench and tighten it all the way in? I will be using this on the threads: http://www.oatey.com/products/thread...ound-with-ptfe I bought Some Ultra Flex PVC that i will be using for most of the piping because of the fact it can be bent better then regular hard PVC and helps in installation. The problem is the stuff is so hard to stick into PVC elbows with out using the glue as lubricant, making dry fitting the job first tough. I supoose a lot of measuring will have to be done in hopes everything is cut just right. Nervous because i do not want to mess this up. The last thing i want is a flood in my house. If anyone has any tips on where to start the plumbing. From the bulkheads down to sump and return pump? Or start from the return pump and sump and work your way up to the bulkheads? Any tips to help me out and make me feel a little better about starting this project would be great.

04/12/2016, 12:21 PM	#8
Bent I got nothin' Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: The anals Posts: 6,420	Ive used PTFE tape on pvc threads for years without problems. __________________ Quitters never lose. [QUOTE=CStrickland]Who gets mad at a starfish?[/QUOTE] Current Tank Info: 75g DT, 30G refugium, 10g chaeto tank, 50g stock tank basement sump

04/12/2016, 12:39 PM	#9
Hitch08 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Philly Suburbs Posts: 665	Fern - Nice work! __________________ 120g tank with 40g breeder sump. SVS-30 LifeReef Skimmer. EcoTech Radion Pros.

04/11/2016, 08:37 AM	#2
GimpyFin Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 2,032	The threads taper a bit so it's designed to get harder the further it goes in. You don't want to tighten it too much or you can damage it. I'd also use either some thread tape or thread joint compound and you should be fine. I'd start by getting the wet side of the overflow plumbing and bulkheads in place and then work on the part underneath.

04/11/2016, 08:41 AM	#3
gigamanx Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Hershey, PA Posts: 77	I can offer my experience that worked out perfectly, as in, no leaks. I plumbed from the bulkheads and used threaded bulkheads also. Take teflon tape and go 5 times around the thread and screw it in. I didn't go much more than hand tight because I read that over-tightening can crack your bulkhead. Some people like to use silicone around the edge but I didn't bother. Gluing is easier than it looks. I used this stuff..primer+glue. It takes literally about 30 seconds before you can't move the pipe anymore so make sure you're just doing one piece at a time and dry fit before gluing. http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-30246-Re...words=pvc+glue Finally, have a few unions in place so if you mess up, you can redo sections without having to redo it all. My fittings for a single bulk head were cap + pipe + 45 + pipe + T slip/slip/slip + threaded/slip to bulkhead + pipe + 45 + union + pipe + gate valve + pipe + union + pipe + 45 + pipe + 45 + pipe + 45 + pipe into sump I fit everything loosely first. Then took it all apart and laid it out on the ground in order...just started gluing from one union to the next so I could assemble as I went and double check things. For testing I actually ran my return temporarily straight into the overflow. I ran water from a 5g bucket into the overflow and down the plumbing so I could test for leaks. I ran it about 48 hours before I was content. Quick and easy and the worst case scenario is 5 gallons of RO water on the floor Good luck

04/12/2016, 09:57 AM	#7
fernalfer Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 553	Drain Lines done.

04/13/2016, 06:15 PM	#15
fernalfer Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 553	OK plumbing job complete. Feeling pretty good about it. Tell me what you guys think. Tried to limit the unions and the 90's for better flow. Used the Ultra Flex PVC which made it easier to work with.