Quarantining fish and coral in separate tanks?

Jetmx · 07/11/2016, 07:00 PM

So I'm about to start stocking my tank and for the first time will try using a QT tank. My question is, with a period of about 3-4 weeks of fish treatments and observation, what do you guys do about QT'ing coral? Is it either one or the other at a time inside a single tank? Im sure those preventative treatments for ich and velvet can't be good for the coral. Do you guys alternate between QT'ing coral and fish?? This whole quarantine thing seems necessary but at the same time a pain in the butt. Makes you just wana not qurantine anything altogether

Reel North · 07/11/2016, 07:33 PM

As a front row ticket holder to a total fish loss, let me give you some advice

Quarantine the fish for a MINIMUM of 6 weeks.

Coral - 8 weeks.

Here is my new protocol.

Ick shield powder - 1 scoop per 20 gallons. Use it for 3 weeks/21 days.

If you do a water change, you MUST replace the meds by mixing the appropriate amount into the change water before putting in the tank.

Wait a week and observe the fish.

Then do 2 rounds of prazi pro, 3 days each, 2 days apart.

Observe.

If you have any issues with the fish, continue treatment for the disease or parasite.

CORAL

I'm not sure what type of coral you are planning on keeping. I can say that for sps and montipora, dips are critical.

I have tried coral Rx and TLF coral dip. I struggled mightily to defeat aefw, and eventually tried Melafix marine. Cured it in 3 weeks.

Dip the corals twice a week, for 6 weeks, and observe for 2.

Total pain in the rear. Totally worth it.

Reel North · 07/11/2016, 07:42 PM

Oh, and yes. In separate tanks. And dip the corals out of the tank.

Couldn't edit my post above.

Jetmx · 07/11/2016, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reel North

Oh, and yes. In separate tanks. And dip the corals out of the tank.

Couldn't edit my post above.

Do you just use a Hang on the back filter or just constant small water changes from display water? Also, after every new addition do u do any kind of cleaning of the qt tank?? Or just empty, refill, and onto the next one.

This seems like it'll be easier than I thought though

Tisbe · 07/12/2016, 01:09 AM

I use a 10 gallon for corals and 20 for fish, HOB filter, heater, power head, light. Keep an air filter sponge or similar in the DT to put in the QT to jumpstart the bio filter. Definitely use different tanks since some of the fish mead can kill corals if you have to use them. I do 10% water changes each week. If the QT had any problem I clean thoroughly before adding the next group otherwise I just do a large water change with water from DT and go again.

Jetmx · 07/12/2016, 02:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tisbe

I use a 10 gallon for corals and 20 for fish, HOB filter, heater, power head, light. Keep an air filter sponge or similar in the DT to put in the QT to jumpstart the bio filter. Definitely use different tanks since some of the fish mead can kill corals if you have to use them. I do 10% water changes each week. If the QT had any problem I clean thoroughly before adding the next group otherwise I just do a large water change with water from DT and go again.

On your HOB filter, once the the QT period is done and the quarantine tank is empty, there's nothing feeding the bacteria in the HOB filter. Do you re-seed it everytime youre ready to quarantine something else?

And what if something was found on one of the fish, do you toss out that media to prevent a future fish from getting contaminated with whatever the previous fish had?

Reel North · 07/12/2016, 04:47 AM

I use sponges from my frag system and put them in the hob. That way they are seeded.

In my fish qt I use a canister filter.

The key is to never cross contaminate a tank with diseased media.

However..... And this is important.

If there is something that shows up on the fish, then you need to treat for that. And the qt clock resets. I'm treating my fish in my 75 qt right now with ick shield. The emp looks like some flukes came off him last Saturday or Sunday in a fw dip.

This isn't a big deal, since the ick shield is for 3 weeks.

At the end of the 3 weeks. I will fw dip all the fish, and check them for flukes.

Since the emp already showed some flukes, that means that now I move to the prazi pro double treatment.

If after prazi, there is any sign of flukes, then I need to come on here and beg for more advice. Lol.

Once qt is done, and I'm satisfied that they are disease free, then it's another week or 2 of observation.

I'm excited to get some fish in my reef again.

As far as the coral - using tank water is fine, and recommended.

I ALWAYS break sps and monti off the plugs (or whatever they came on), and dip them for 10 minutes in melafix marine.

Inspect them for eggs, bugs, bubble algae, Gelidium etc

Then reglue them to NEW plugs, and put them in qt.

I had to restart mine due to Gelidium that came in on a frag plug AND I got AEFW.

Now ask why I'm so diligent on QT now.

I even bought a piece of purple monti last week, and wasn't going to bother to dip it..... 10 nudibranchs. And eggs when I broke it off the plug.

Dipped, scraped the eggs, and guess where it went.

Yup. QT

You can never lose in this hobby by being cautious.

Jetmx · 07/12/2016, 06:13 AM

Looks like a got a little shopping list of items to order this week

CindyK · 07/12/2016, 07:56 PM

I'm setting up a new 75 gal reef and am setting up my QT at the same time, trying to start out right. I was looking at a HOB skimmer...is a HOB canister just as good? better, since it houses bacteria? I expect my QT will be up and running for 9 months at least while I stock my DT.

Reel North · 07/12/2016, 08:01 PM

Don't bother with a skimmer. You need something like an aqua clear hob filter like they use in fresh water. Decorate with pic plumbing lol.

I run an air stone in mine, as well as a 304 fluval canister.

Have a heater in there, and maybe a small powerhead.

You will want to get some ich shield powder to start off. Is basically chloroquine phosphate, which gets rid of lots of nasty critters.

You also will want to get some prazi pro.

A lot of fish don't take copper treatment well. I have some large Angels (they will be some day) so I avoid copper.

MrsReefK · 07/12/2016, 08:10 PM

Didn't mean to post, was browsing and won't let me delete.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

scuzy · 07/12/2016, 08:13 PM

Some of the wrasse don't handle cp well either. Lost a few expensive wrasse to ich shield

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CindyK · 07/12/2016, 08:23 PM

I've got the heater, powerhead covered.

I'm still a little confused about the lighting....how much do fish need? For now I'm mainly concerned about QTing fish...I may think about setting up a separate QT for coral, but that is really more than I bargained for

I was planning to do the prazi pro, will stay away from copper unless I see symptoms. My LFS compared copper to chemotherapy in humans...not something I personally would do without a good reason I guess.

CindyK · 07/12/2016, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reel North

Don't bother with a skimmer. You need something like an aqua clear hob filter like they use in fresh water. Decorate with pic plumbing lol.

I run an air stone in mine, as well as a 304 fluval canister.

Have a heater in there, and maybe a small powerhead.

You will want to get some ich shield powder to start off. Is basically chloroquine phosphate, which gets rid of lots of nasty critters.

You also will want to get some prazi pro.

A lot of fish don't take copper treatment well. I have some large Angels (they will be some day) so I avoid copper.

I've got the heater, powerhead covered.

I'm still a little confused about the lighting....how much do fish need? For now I'm mainly concerned about QTing fish...I may think about setting up a separate QT for coral, but that is really more than I bargained for

I was planning to do the prazi pro, will stay away from copper unless I see symptoms. My LFS compared copper to chemotherapy in humans...not something I personally would do unless I saw signs & symptoms of disease.

scuzy · 07/12/2016, 08:24 PM

You need no lighting for fish. I have my fish sitting in the floor in their qt with no lights attach.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CindyK · 07/12/2016, 08:26 PM

[QUOTE=scuzy;24626884]Some of the wrasse don't handle cp well either. Lost a few expensive wrasse to ich shield

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE

thank you I will remember that. I really want a yellow coris wrasse someday

Tisbe · 07/12/2016, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jetmx

On your HOB filter, once the the QT period is done and the quarantine tank is empty, there's nothing feeding the bacteria in the HOB filter. Do you re-seed it everytime youre ready to quarantine something else?

And what if something was found on one of the fish, do you toss out that media to prevent a future fish from getting contaminated with whatever the previous fish had?

I keep two clean sponges in my DT and bring one over to start the QT. If I break it down to clean it, then I have the second to start the QT again. If something is found in the tanks I just clean everything with a little bleach, rise really well and then let dry in the sun to finish taking care of any left over leach. I throw away the carbon but reuses the filter back that goes in the HOB.

Hope this helps.

Reel North · 07/12/2016, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scuzy

Some of the wrasse don't handle cp well either. Lost a few expensive wrasse to ich shield

I didn't know that! I have a yellow coris in the qt right now. Little piggy lol

Thanks for the heads up

Copper almost requires an ATO in the qt to keep the copper levels consistent.

I'm thinking about getting one due to the evaporation of 1g plus a day.

Try to avoid copper if you can.

scuzy · 07/12/2016, 10:39 PM

Lineatus and flame wrasse both died in cp

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dmorty217 · 07/13/2016, 07:14 AM

You should be letting the coral sit for minimum of 72 days since what has been mentioned above is only for pests that kill corals... Corals can also harbor fish disease

Reel North · 07/13/2016, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dmorty217

You should be letting the coral sit for minimum of 72 days since what has been mentioned above is only for pests that kill corals... Corals can also harbor fish disease

good point

Pmj · 07/13/2016, 11:06 AM

Does Ick Shield 100% remove ick? I thought TTM was the preferred method?

bigfruits · 07/13/2016, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CindyK

I'm still a little confused about the lighting....how much do fish need?

none really but I would have something on there so that you can observe them well. id also guess the lighting from your DT will be a bit less stressful to the fish if they are used to some kind of light schedule.

Reel North · 07/13/2016, 04:37 PM

Chloroquine degrades with UV lighting. I just have my qt unlit, with a bit of ambient light from the basement windows.

If you aren't using CP, the just anything is fine

I'm telling you. This is so hard staring at a tank full of sps and no fish.

Even my Sally light foot is eating pellets. NO NUTRIENTS

JMorris271 · 07/13/2016, 04:53 PM

What kind of lights do you use on your coral QT

07/11/2016, 07:00 PM	#1
Jetmx Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Posts: 7	Quarantining fish and coral in separate tanks? So I'm about to start stocking my tank and for the first time will try using a QT tank. My question is, with a period of about 3-4 weeks of fish treatments and observation, what do you guys do about QT'ing coral? Is it either one or the other at a time inside a single tank? Im sure those preventative treatments for ich and velvet can't be good for the coral. Do you guys alternate between QT'ing coral and fish?? This whole quarantine thing seems necessary but at the same time a pain in the butt. Makes you just wana not qurantine anything altogether

07/11/2016, 07:33 PM	#2
Reel North New King of Quarantine Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Hammertown, Canada eh Posts: 1,175	As a front row ticket holder to a total fish loss, let me give you some advice Quarantine the fish for a MINIMUM of 6 weeks. Coral - 8 weeks. Here is my new protocol. Ick shield powder - 1 scoop per 20 gallons. Use it for 3 weeks/21 days. If you do a water change, you MUST replace the meds by mixing the appropriate amount into the change water before putting in the tank. Wait a week and observe the fish. Then do 2 rounds of prazi pro, 3 days each, 2 days apart. Observe. If you have any issues with the fish, continue treatment for the disease or parasite. CORAL I'm not sure what type of coral you are planning on keeping. I can say that for sps and montipora, dips are critical. I have tried coral Rx and TLF coral dip. I struggled mightily to defeat aefw, and eventually tried Melafix marine. Cured it in 3 weeks. Dip the corals twice a week, for 6 weeks, and observe for 2. Total pain in the rear. Totally worth it. __________________ It takes a very rich man to buy cheap things Current Tank Info: frag tank. Lame

07/11/2016, 07:42 PM	#3
Reel North New King of Quarantine Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Hammertown, Canada eh Posts: 1,175	Oh, and yes. In separate tanks. And dip the corals out of the tank. Couldn't edit my post above. __________________ It takes a very rich man to buy cheap things Current Tank Info: frag tank. Lame

07/12/2016, 04:47 AM	#7
Reel North New King of Quarantine Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Hammertown, Canada eh Posts: 1,175	I use sponges from my frag system and put them in the hob. That way they are seeded. In my fish qt I use a canister filter. The key is to never cross contaminate a tank with diseased media. However..... And this is important. If there is something that shows up on the fish, then you need to treat for that. And the qt clock resets. I'm treating my fish in my 75 qt right now with ick shield. The emp looks like some flukes came off him last Saturday or Sunday in a fw dip. This isn't a big deal, since the ick shield is for 3 weeks. At the end of the 3 weeks. I will fw dip all the fish, and check them for flukes. Since the emp already showed some flukes, that means that now I move to the prazi pro double treatment. If after prazi, there is any sign of flukes, then I need to come on here and beg for more advice. Lol. Once qt is done, and I'm satisfied that they are disease free, then it's another week or 2 of observation. I'm excited to get some fish in my reef again. As far as the coral - using tank water is fine, and recommended. I ALWAYS break sps and monti off the plugs (or whatever they came on), and dip them for 10 minutes in melafix marine. Inspect them for eggs, bugs, bubble algae, Gelidium etc Then reglue them to NEW plugs, and put them in qt. I had to restart mine due to Gelidium that came in on a frag plug AND I got AEFW. Now ask why I'm so diligent on QT now. I even bought a piece of purple monti last week, and wasn't going to bother to dip it..... 10 nudibranchs. And eggs when I broke it off the plug. Dipped, scraped the eggs, and guess where it went. Yup. QT You can never lose in this hobby by being cautious. __________________ It takes a very rich man to buy cheap things Current Tank Info: frag tank. Lame

07/12/2016, 08:01 PM	#10
Reel North New King of Quarantine Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Hammertown, Canada eh Posts: 1,175	Don't bother with a skimmer. You need something like an aqua clear hob filter like they use in fresh water. Decorate with pic plumbing lol. I run an air stone in mine, as well as a 304 fluval canister. Have a heater in there, and maybe a small powerhead. You will want to get some ich shield powder to start off. Is basically chloroquine phosphate, which gets rid of lots of nasty critters. You also will want to get some prazi pro. A lot of fish don't take copper treatment well. I have some large Angels (they will be some day) so I avoid copper. __________________ It takes a very rich man to buy cheap things Current Tank Info: frag tank. Lame

07/12/2016, 01:09 AM	#5
Tisbe Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Coeur D Alene, Idaho Posts: 170	I use a 10 gallon for corals and 20 for fish, HOB filter, heater, power head, light. Keep an air filter sponge or similar in the DT to put in the QT to jumpstart the bio filter. Definitely use different tanks since some of the fish mead can kill corals if you have to use them. I do 10% water changes each week. If the QT had any problem I clean thoroughly before adding the next group otherwise I just do a large water change with water from DT and go again.

07/12/2016, 06:13 AM	#8
Jetmx Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Posts: 7	Looks like a got a little shopping list of items to order this week

07/12/2016, 07:56 PM	#9
CindyK Registered Member Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 268	I'm setting up a new 75 gal reef and am setting up my QT at the same time, trying to start out right. I was looking at a HOB skimmer...is a HOB canister just as good? better, since it houses bacteria? I expect my QT will be up and running for 9 months at least while I stock my DT.

07/12/2016, 08:10 PM	#11
MrsReefK Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Posts: 981	Quarantining fish and coral in separate tanks? Didn't mean to post, was browsing and won't let me delete. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

07/12/2016, 08:13 PM	#12
scuzy Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 6,499	Some of the wrasse don't handle cp well either. Lost a few expensive wrasse to ich shield Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

07/12/2016, 08:23 PM	#13
CindyK Registered Member Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 268	I've got the heater, powerhead covered. I'm still a little confused about the lighting....how much do fish need? For now I'm mainly concerned about QTing fish...I may think about setting up a separate QT for coral, but that is really more than I bargained for I was planning to do the prazi pro, will stay away from copper unless I see symptoms. My LFS compared copper to chemotherapy in humans...not something I personally would do without a good reason I guess.

07/12/2016, 08:24 PM	#15
scuzy Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 6,499	You need no lighting for fish. I have my fish sitting in the floor in their qt with no lights attach. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

07/12/2016, 08:26 PM	#16
CindyK Registered Member Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 268	[QUOTE=scuzy;24626884]Some of the wrasse don't handle cp well either. Lost a few expensive wrasse to ich shield Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE thank you I will remember that. I really want a yellow coris wrasse someday

07/12/2016, 10:39 PM	#19
scuzy Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 6,499	Lineatus and flame wrasse both died in cp Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

07/13/2016, 07:14 AM	#20
Dmorty217 Saltwater Addict Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Vandalia OHIO Posts: 11,624	You should be letting the coral sit for minimum of 72 days since what has been mentioned above is only for pests that kill corals... Corals can also harbor fish disease __________________ Fish are not disposable commodities, but a worthwhile investment that can be maintained and enjoyed for many years, providing one is willing to take the time to understand their requirements and needs Current Tank Info: 625g, 220g sump, RD3 230w, Vectra L1 on a closed loop, 3 MP60s, MP40. Several QTs

07/13/2016, 11:06 AM	#22
Pmj Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Cooper City, FL Posts: 229	Does Ick Shield 100% remove ick? I thought TTM was the preferred method?

07/13/2016, 04:37 PM	#24
Reel North New King of Quarantine Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Hammertown, Canada eh Posts: 1,175	Chloroquine degrades with UV lighting. I just have my qt unlit, with a bit of ambient light from the basement windows. If you aren't using CP, the just anything is fine I'm telling you. This is so hard staring at a tank full of sps and no fish. Even my Sally light foot is eating pellets. NO NUTRIENTS __________________ It takes a very rich man to buy cheap things Current Tank Info: frag tank. Lame Last edited by Reel North; 07/13/2016 at 05:21 PM.

07/13/2016, 04:53 PM	#25
JMorris271 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Foothills of SC Posts: 2,010	What kind of lights do you use on your coral QT __________________ 120 gal mixed tank. Lightly stocked now but....