Question about water changed

[Capsle]

Hey Reefers,

My tank has been cycled for 3+ weeks now. All my parameters have been stable for 2.

Salinity 1.023-024
PH 7.9
Ammonia is never 0 but < 0.15 (just to say it's not completely clear on the salifert test)
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 2.5-5
Alk 10.5
Cal 420
PO4 <0.03
Mag is a little low 1120-1140 (started doing mg 2 days ago)

Skimate is hardly existent. Cleaned my cup out once so far.

All live stick is doing great. RBTA has pretty much doubled in size. I feed my O clowns twice a day alternating between mysis and brime. I have some diatoms and a bit of GHA but they seem to keep my CUC fed.

My question is if all my parameters are in check and stable should I still be doing a water change?


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[Green Chromis]

How long has your system been setup? Seems a little early to put a RBTA in their, but I would do a 30% water changes once a month.

[Capsle]

Originally Posted by Green Chromis

How long has your system been setup? Seems a little early to put a RBTA in their, but I would do a 30% water changes once a month.

Its been cycled and stable just over 3 weeks now. Everything is doing great. Yes its early for a RBTA but the way i figured it is better to have him in and find his place before adding and coral so he doesn't stomp all over them. He's also doubled in size.

I know stability is key. If all parameters are in check and the cycle is complete their shouldn't be an issue with adding any type of livestock in my opinion. Just need to go slow with the additions. The O clowns and RBTA have been in for 2 weeks. I added a cleaner shrimp and a pin cushion urchin this week. Will probably add a few more fish in 2 weeks time.

Water is crystal clear (except micro bubbles) and all parameters are in check.

[SeanPep]

So you added the BTA and clowns with the tank only cycling for a week? Sounds like you need to slow down a lot.

[Capsle]

Originally Posted by SeanPep

So you added the BTA and clowns with the tank only cycling for a week? Sounds like you need to slow down a lot.

The cycle was completed for over a week. Not 1 week into the cycle.

And the questions was should I do a water change even though all the parameters are in check? Not questioning my cycle or livestock.

[gone fishin]

For the time being I would continue to do 10-15% weekly or biweekly depending on what your nitrates and phosphates show. Even though you passed the first hurdle of cycling the tank, it will continue to mature and will be a bit shaky for quite some time. Eventually you will be able to get a feel for how long you can go between WC's based on the bio-load, testing and how things look. Good luck just my 2 cents.

[Capsle]

Originally Posted by gone fishin

For the time being I would continue to do 10-15% weekly or biweekly depending on what your nitrates and phosphates show. Even though you passed the first hurdle of cycling the tank, it will continue to mature and will be a bit shaky for quite some time. Eventually you will be able to get a feel for how long you can go between WC's based on the bio-load, testing and how things look. Good luck just my 2 cents.

Thank you gone fishing! I have yet to do a water change so I will aim to do one tomorrow.

Obviously the bio load at the moment is now and my skimmer is meant for 150g volume. I have about 70-75g ( including sump)water volume.

So I'm assuming it's normal for the Nitrates to be low. I am running Rowa Phos in a sock in my sump as my phosphate was high at the beginning 0.3. Now it's down to 0.03. Should I continue using it?


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[gone fishin]

Originally Posted by Capsle

Thank you gone fishing! I have yet to do a water change so I will aim to do one tomorrow.

Obviously the bio load at the moment is now and my skimmer is meant for 150g volume. I have about 70-75g ( including sump)water volume.

So I'm assuming it's normal for the Nitrates to be low. I am running Rowa Phos in a sock in my sump as my phosphate was high at the beginning 0.3. Now it's down to 0.03. Should I continue using it?


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not much of a load so nitrates should not be much, it would appear you did a decent cycle. I would continue to use the rowa phos since you mentioned some GHA. Some times newer folks get themselves jammed up while learning how much to feed or just getting lulled into a false sense of security. Your water chemistry will continue to change and evolve as your new ecosystem develops and matures.

[gone fishin]

Eventually you will get to know your tank and will see a coral looking a bit different, a bit algae and know you need to check something like alk or calc, phosphates.

[Capsle]

Originally Posted by gone fishin

Eventually you will get to know your tank and will see a coral looking a bit different, a bit algae and know you need to check something like alk or calc, phosphates.

Awesome. Thanks

My cycle did go well and quickly. I used 70 lb of live rock that had come from a pre established tank and 60 lb of live sand.

I pretty sure things are setup well and they're running smoothly. Now I just need to figure out this aquascape thing.


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[Reincarnate]

I just figured it out right now... "Capsle" lol sweet!

[Capsle]

Originally Posted by Reincarnate

I just figured it out right now... "Capsle" lol sweet!

I don't get it?


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[Sk8r]

You do water changes on a regular schedule, ideally when your water is 'perfect,' so that you never have any 'unperfect' moments. Easiest way is to cut the power to your autotopoff (yep, thinkaboutit) and drop a small pump into the dt or the sump, whichever is easier. Draw off 10% of the system water, but don't toss it yet. Use it to wash things, use it to stand by in case your test of the water about to go into your tank says you read the test wrong and it's not right--
Drop the little pump into your 'new water' bucket and pump water into the system, either into the sump or into the dt, take your pick. If there's an extreme temperature difference, or if you have delicate critters that might take offense, be sure the new water is warmed. Ordinarily 10% of water is not that heavy a temperature hit, so you don't have to worry excessively. I operate under the theory is that water changes should be as painless as possible so that people won't neglect to do them. If you need to warm a sincerely 'cold' bucket of new water, a double measuring cup of water can be warmed in your microwave: it's new, has no life in it, no problem, right? Once the two 'waters' are relatively equal, pump it in, TURN YOUR ATO BACK ON, and you're golden.