GHA and poss bryopsis in new(ish) tank

Nick_Northern · 09/13/2016, 02:16 PM

Hi all,

My tanks been fully cycled for around 9 weeks now and in the last couple of weeks I have seen a noticeable increase in the amount of algae, I have a couple of patches of GHA and some feathery stuff which looks to me like bryopsis growing on my back wall and some of the rocks.

My question is should I be concerned about this or can I chalk it up to part of the natural post cycle stabilisation period? I don't want to do anything too hasty (such as raising mg with Kent tech-m) to try and get rid but am consious it may be best to nip it in the bud asap.

WQ params - Temp 25.5C / Sal 1.025 / pH 8.1-8.2 / KH 7.7 / Ammo 0 / Nitri 0 / Nitrate 5 / Phos 0 (presumably bound in the algae) / Calc 350

Tank info - 90usg w 20g sump / 180W Maxspect R420R lighting / Maxpect Gyre XF150 / Bubblemagus curve 7 skimmer / chaeto lit by 24w T5

Tank inhabitants are:
- 3 x blue leg hermit
- 11 x trochus snail
- 2 x strawberry conch
- Various softies - anthelia, xenia a few frags and a couple of leathers

I have no fish and the only feeding is in the form of occasional pellets and nori every few days to keep the conch happy when they have stripped bare everywhere within reach (they are absolute machines!)

I use RO for water changes which I tested today - around 5ppm nitrate and 0 phosphate. Recently upgraded my sump light to a 24w t5 from an 11w arcpod to try and speed up the chaeto growth

Instead of live rock I used caribsea's life rock and recently added a couple of chunks of seeded real reef. I know some dry rock is renowned for leeching phos but not sure if these brands in particular are known for it?

Thanks in advance

Nick

mcgyvr · 09/13/2016, 03:23 PM

First.. get a DI stage for your RO filter to make it RO/DI to get the nitrates in your good water to 0.
It could be just about the only source of nitrates in your tank for far and is a source of energy for the algae..
phosphates probably aren't an issue and you don't measure any..

Yes.. Some algae is totally normal and will usually go away with proper care..
And a pic of the algae may help to identify if its bryopsis or not.. but you may just want to pick that out carefully to ensure it doesn't become a problem..

IMO the DI stage should be your next move for sure..

anthonys51 · 09/13/2016, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

First.. get a DI stage for your RO filter to make it RO/DI to get the nitrates in your good water to 0.
It could be just about the only source of nitrates in your tank for far and is a source of energy for the algae..
phosphates probably aren't an issue and you don't measure any..

Yes.. Some algae is totally normal and will usually go away with proper care..
And a pic of the algae may help to identify if its bryopsis or not.. but you may just want to pick that out carefully to ensure it doesn't become a problem..

IMO the DI stage should be your next move for sure..

plus 1. this should stop the algae problem imo since you really arent feeding the tank yetl

Nick_Northern · 09/14/2016, 11:51 AM

Thanks for the responses. I actually buy my water from the LFS so i'm not sure if its RO or RODI, although I would presume its just RO going from your comments and now that I think about I did start buying my water from a new place around a month ago which is probably more than just a coincidence. I'll buy some from the old place and test it this weekend and see if it makes a difference.

Not in a position to setup my own RODI unit at the moment due to very awkward tap locations and the expense of running it on a water meter but I might look into it in the future

csb123 · 09/14/2016, 09:11 PM

If the feathery stuff turns out to be byprosis, pick it off and scrub the attachment site with a file or wire brush. Then spray down the area with hydrogen peroxide. If it becomes established in the tank, it is a b**** to get rid of.

BarIzoN · 09/14/2016, 10:21 PM

Hi,

I have a Green Star Polyp which I'm suspecting bryopsis.

Can you take a look and confirm?? Couldn't find anything to compare, but the GSP is dying of it.

Thanks,

- BarIzoN -

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

BarIzoN · 09/14/2016, 10:22 PM

One more pic.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

mcgyvr · 09/15/2016, 05:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarIzoN

Hi,

I have a Green Star Polyp which I'm suspecting bryopsis.

bryopsis is a feathery green algae.. Thats not it..
Frankly I can't see enough details in those pictures to diagnose anything..
Looks like a white dusting of something but can't really tell..

BarIzoN · 09/15/2016, 02:37 PM

Hi mcgyvr!

Thanks for the explanation!

Definitely that's not bryopsis.

I have better pictures available. That's some kind of white branches - really tiny - and it's lodging on the coral's body.

Last night I stirred in front of a power head and used a baster to "clean" that thing off. I'd say one third is still in the body. I actually used my finger to try to clean up more, but that thing is really hard to pull off.

I'll check this evening how the coral is doing and use more the baster to clean even more.

Here are few more pics.

Thanks for the help!

Nick_Northern · 09/17/2016, 03:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by csb123

If the feathery stuff turns out to be byprosis, pick it off and scrub the attachment site with a file or wire brush. Then spray down the area with hydrogen peroxide. If it becomes established in the tank, it is a b**** to get rid of.

Thanks, I am almost certain a few clumps at least are bryopsis, photo's aren't coming out very well as its growing in between my anthelia so I won't attach. I have heard that in new tanks a bloom of GHA can often be expected as a natural part of the cycling process, is this ever the case with bryopsis? Going off your info and everything I've read seems like its a different beast than run of the mill GHA.

I'm going to take a few steps to nip it in the bud I think (any input appreciated!):

1 - Find new source water to limit nutrient import (best I can do short of buying my own RO/DI unit)
2 - Pick and scrub as much of it as I can and siphon out the scraps
3 - Stick some GFO in the sump
4 - Possibly get a tuxedo urchin to help stay on top of any new strands (even if it doesnt touch the bryopsis they look like a cool addition anyway)

Toying with idea of getting a GFO reactor and or maybe a nitrate reactor but having heard softies like xenia appreciate slightly elevated nutrients i'm wondering whether this would be a good idea or may cause them to crash...

QuiGonJay · 09/17/2016, 09:29 PM

Been struggling with a similar bryopsis issue. Started gfo three weeks back, my xenia are doing ok. Still ripping out bryopsis though. That stuff is crazy persistent.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Nick_Northern · 09/20/2016, 10:46 AM

So I had a good scrub of the rocks and added a tuxedo urchin. Once acclimated I placed it straight on the largest clump of bryopsis which it promptly destroyed! It's a cool little critter although it managed to find a single bubble of valonia which I didn't know was in the tank and which it is now wearing as an accessory. The scrubbing has helped so I'm hoping the urchin will be able to stay on top of the remainder but we'll see.

I have also reduced my photoperiod, I was using a preset cycle on my 180w Razor which ramped up from 0700 and back down at 2100, i'm sure this was not helping matters so I have reduced to 6 hours of full lighting with 1.5 hours ramp up either side.

09/13/2016, 02:16 PM	#1
Nick_Northern Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Redditch, United Kingdom Posts: 261	GHA and poss bryopsis in new(ish) tank Hi all, My tanks been fully cycled for around 9 weeks now and in the last couple of weeks I have seen a noticeable increase in the amount of algae, I have a couple of patches of GHA and some feathery stuff which looks to me like bryopsis growing on my back wall and some of the rocks. My question is should I be concerned about this or can I chalk it up to part of the natural post cycle stabilisation period? I don't want to do anything too hasty (such as raising mg with Kent tech-m) to try and get rid but am consious it may be best to nip it in the bud asap. WQ params - Temp 25.5C / Sal 1.025 / pH 8.1-8.2 / KH 7.7 / Ammo 0 / Nitri 0 / Nitrate 5 / Phos 0 (presumably bound in the algae) / Calc 350 Tank info - 90usg w 20g sump / 180W Maxspect R420R lighting / Maxpect Gyre XF150 / Bubblemagus curve 7 skimmer / chaeto lit by 24w T5 Tank inhabitants are: - 3 x blue leg hermit - 11 x trochus snail - 2 x strawberry conch - Various softies - anthelia, xenia a few frags and a couple of leathers I have no fish and the only feeding is in the form of occasional pellets and nori every few days to keep the conch happy when they have stripped bare everywhere within reach (they are absolute machines!) I use RO for water changes which I tested today - around 5ppm nitrate and 0 phosphate. Recently upgraded my sump light to a 24w t5 from an 11w arcpod to try and speed up the chaeto growth Instead of live rock I used caribsea's life rock and recently added a couple of chunks of seeded real reef. I know some dry rock is renowned for leeching phos but not sure if these brands in particular are known for it? Thanks in advance Nick

09/13/2016, 03:23 PM	#2
mcgyvr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: North Carolina Posts: 20,050	First.. get a DI stage for your RO filter to make it RO/DI to get the nitrates in your good water to 0. It could be just about the only source of nitrates in your tank for far and is a source of energy for the algae.. phosphates probably aren't an issue and you don't measure any.. Yes.. Some algae is totally normal and will usually go away with proper care.. And a pic of the algae may help to identify if its bryopsis or not.. but you may just want to pick that out carefully to ensure it doesn't become a problem.. IMO the DI stage should be your next move for sure.. __________________ Who me?

09/14/2016, 11:51 AM	#4
Nick_Northern Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Redditch, United Kingdom Posts: 261	Thanks for the responses. I actually buy my water from the LFS so i'm not sure if its RO or RODI, although I would presume its just RO going from your comments and now that I think about I did start buying my water from a new place around a month ago which is probably more than just a coincidence. I'll buy some from the old place and test it this weekend and see if it makes a difference. Not in a position to setup my own RODI unit at the moment due to very awkward tap locations and the expense of running it on a water meter but I might look into it in the future

09/14/2016, 09:11 PM	#5
csb123 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: minnesota Posts: 104	If the feathery stuff turns out to be byprosis, pick it off and scrub the attachment site with a file or wire brush. Then spray down the area with hydrogen peroxide. If it becomes established in the tank, it is a b**** to get rid of.

09/14/2016, 10:21 PM	#6
BarIzoN Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 163	Hi, I have a Green Star Polyp which I'm suspecting bryopsis. Can you take a look and confirm?? Couldn't find anything to compare, but the GSP is dying of it. Thanks, - BarIzoN - Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

09/14/2016, 10:22 PM	#7
BarIzoN Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 163	One more pic. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

09/15/2016, 02:37 PM	#9
BarIzoN Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 163	Hi mcgyvr! Thanks for the explanation! Definitely that's not bryopsis. I have better pictures available. That's some kind of white branches - really tiny - and it's lodging on the coral's body. Last night I stirred in front of a power head and used a baster to "clean" that thing off. I'd say one third is still in the body. I actually used my finger to try to clean up more, but that thing is really hard to pull off. I'll check this evening how the coral is doing and use more the baster to clean even more. Here are few more pics. Thanks for the help!

09/17/2016, 09:29 PM	#11
QuiGonJay Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 327	Been struggling with a similar bryopsis issue. Started gfo three weeks back, my xenia are doing ok. Still ripping out bryopsis though. That stuff is crazy persistent. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

09/20/2016, 10:46 AM	#12
Nick_Northern Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Redditch, United Kingdom Posts: 261	So I had a good scrub of the rocks and added a tuxedo urchin. Once acclimated I placed it straight on the largest clump of bryopsis which it promptly destroyed! It's a cool little critter although it managed to find a single bubble of valonia which I didn't know was in the tank and which it is now wearing as an accessory. The scrubbing has helped so I'm hoping the urchin will be able to stay on top of the remainder but we'll see. I have also reduced my photoperiod, I was using a preset cycle on my 180w Razor which ramped up from 0700 and back down at 2100, i'm sure this was not helping matters so I have reduced to 6 hours of full lighting with 1.5 hours ramp up either side.