Clearview lid

JTL · 07/25/2017, 12:10 PM

Made by Artfully Acrylic. Anyone have one? Nice but expensive. For my 100g it would be about $250 shipped.

Wazzel · 07/25/2017, 12:38 PM

I have one on my 120. They are nice, but I do not like the screen on the bottom. I have a lot of surface agitation in my tank and the wave will catch the screen and the surface tension of the water will hold it down. They are manufactured in one pass on a CNC router table. Putting the mesh on the bottom keeps them from having to flip them over and reset.

I actually have mine on upside down right now until I get a chance to reconfigure my pumps.

JTL · 07/25/2017, 12:53 PM

Mark, how thick is the poly-carbonate? I wonder if I could get one made for less money. The material is kind of expensive, but the shipping is like $40.

Wazzel · 07/25/2017, 01:38 PM

Fairly sure it is 3/8", but not home to confirm. Was going to build it myself since the material is about half the cost of getting one from artfully acrylic, but once I figured in the cost of all the tooling I needed to build one it was not much of a cost savings for the risk of messing up the poly carb.

Oh and IMO the lock for the feed door is not worth the extra cost. I found it to be an inconvenience and took it off.

JTL · 07/25/2017, 02:06 PM

I really don't like tank covers but without one my choice of nice looking fish is limited. I built a couple of them in the past, one out of aluminum window screen material like the typical diy ones and it was flimsy and ugly. Then I tried to make one out of some strips of acrylic, that was better but I had to glue the screening material onto the acrylic frame and that was not great.

JTL · 07/25/2017, 03:36 PM

Mark, please check the thickness and the width for me. Thanks.

Wazzel · 07/25/2017, 05:21 PM

The material is 3/8" thick and the flange is 2" wide. I have about 1/16" clear in both the length and width so it sits down a little. The tabs that hold it up are 1/16" thick.

JTL · 07/25/2017, 05:32 PM

Thanks. Thinking about making one out of strips of polycarb. I would need to glue the ends with Weldon 16 and cut the groove with my dremel. Under $100 but not as nice as the Artfully Arcrlic.

Wazzel · 07/25/2017, 07:57 PM

Hope it works out. Let me know how it goes please.

mfinn · 07/25/2017, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wazzel

I have one on my 120. They are nice, but I do not like the screen on the bottom. I have a lot of surface agitation in my tank and the wave will catch the screen and the surface tension of the water will hold it down. They are manufactured in one pass on a CNC router table. Putting the mesh on the bottom keeps them from having to flip them over and reset.

I actually have mine on upside down right now until I get a chance to reconfigure my pumps.

I have one of their screen tops too. (Actually I have 2 of their tops.)
The first one came and at first I was happy. But after looking at it I noticed the screen material seemed pretty crooked.
Then one morning a few days later I noticed the left side of the screen material had sagged/caught in a ripple and was in the water.
I wasn't happy with this at all.
I sent them pictures and after a few back and forth emails they agreed to send me a new one.

They said one reason my screen was in the water was my abnormally high water level.
( none of my diy screen tops ever sagged)

The new seems to be better.
All in all I'm happy.
Their customer service is outstanding IMO.

JTL · 07/26/2017, 06:45 AM

I bet the screening material is difficult to get both tight and straight, especially it they use the type with 1/4" holes. Wazzel mentioned that they should put the groove for the spline on the top to minimize the sagging. They probably think it looks better on the bottom.

If I build one it won't look as refined because it will be constructed of 2" wide strips of poly-carbonate that will need to be joined at the corners. I calculated that I can build the top for about $70.

Wazzel · 07/26/2017, 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JTL

I bet the screening material is difficult to get both tight and straight, especially it they use the type with 1/4" holes. Wazzel mentioned that they should put the groove for the spline on the top to minimize the sagging. They probably think it looks better on the bottom.

If I build one it won't look as refined because it will be constructed of 2" wide strips of poly-carbonate that will need to be joined at the corners. I calculated that I can build the top for about $70.

I suspect it is totally for manufacturing reasons. As it is now they can cut the entire lid without flipping. It saves time and potential mistakes from not being properly aligned after the flip.

JTL · 07/26/2017, 09:10 AM

How far in from the edge is the channel for the spline?

Wazzel · 07/26/2017, 09:39 AM

I will check when I get home and let you know.

lilphil26 · 07/26/2017, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JTL

Thanks. Thinking about making one out of strips of polycarb. I would need to glue the ends with Weldon 16 and cut the groove with my dremel. Under $100 but not as nice as the Artfully Arcrlic.

I did this exact same thing. Works fine and doesn't look too bad.

Wazzel · 07/26/2017, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JTL

How far in from the edge is the channel for the spline?

1/4" from edge to center of spline.

JTL · 07/26/2017, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lilphil26

I did this exact same thing. Works fine and doesn't look too bad.

Looks very good, you even did the 45's on the corners. I don't see the spline and how did you cut in the channels?

JTL · 07/26/2017, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wazzel

1/4" from edge to center of spline.

Thanks for the info.

JTL · 07/27/2017, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lilphil26

I did this exact same thing. Works fine and doesn't look too bad.

Waiting to hear how you cut the groove and what size it is. I don't have a router so I would have to figure out how to do it with a dremel.

Wazzel · 07/27/2017, 12:04 PM

Need to decide on what spline to use since there are a few to choose from. Either a regular slot or dove tail slot the same or one size smaller is what I would use. Using a dremel should not be an issue.

JTL · 07/27/2017, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wazzel

Need to decide on what spline to use since there are a few to choose from. Either a regular slot or dove tail slot the same or one size smaller is what I would use. Using a dremel should not be an issue.

That is a consideration. I think a 1/8" x 1/8" might work. Most of my dremel bits seem to be that diameter. I measure a screen that I had and it appears to be a 1/8" channel.

It will be a slow process using a dremel because of the heat gumming things up. Probable would have to take in multiple passes. That's why I was curious how lilphil26 did his. Don't want to reinvent the wheel.

Wazzel · 07/27/2017, 12:28 PM

If you have a table saw you can rip the slot in. IIRC a saw blade is 1/8" thick.

JTL · 07/27/2017, 12:41 PM

I have one but that is a dangerous proposition with poly-carbonate. It could easily get jammed and break/splinter. The plastic company would not even consider a groove at 1" from the edge for safety reasons. At least that is what they told me.

lilphil26 · 07/29/2017, 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JTL

Waiting to hear how you cut the groove and what size it is. I don't have a router so I would have to figure out how to do it with a dremel.

I cut the groove with a table saw actually. I ended up cleaning it up with a router so it was a cleaner cut. Set the table saw up to whatever depth of cut you want, and pass it through. I always keep a few pieces of scrap around for first cuts. Like someone else said, the table saw blade is 1/8 of an inch wide. I had to widen it just a margin to fit the spline. If I could do it again, which I will be actually because I just bought a red Sea reefer 170, I will use a piece of 3/8 lexan but cut it from a big sheet instead of strips. The strips are cheaper but not as strong after gluing. I bought a ridgid laminate trimmer, aka compact router. It was cheap, is cordless and allows for a much nicer job than the table saw. Any questions shoot me a pm

lilphil26 · 07/29/2017, 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JTL

I have one but that is a dangerous proposition with poly-carbonate. It could easily get jammed and break/splinter. The plastic company would not even consider a groove at 1" from the edge for safety reasons. At least that is what they told me.

Setting up the table saw properly avoids it getting jammed. I use a non ferrous blade for my acrylic and polycarbonate cuts. Works like a charm.

07/25/2017, 12:10 PM	#1
JTL Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Venice Island, FL Posts: 2,532	Clearview lid Made by Artfully Acrylic. Anyone have one? Nice but expensive. For my 100g it would be about $250 shipped. __________________ John 100 gallon DT and 50 gallon sump with refugium. Reefbreeders Photon V2+.

07/25/2017, 12:38 PM	#2
Wazzel Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Houma, LA Posts: 4,743	I have one on my 120. They are nice, but I do not like the screen on the bottom. I have a lot of surface agitation in my tank and the wave will catch the screen and the surface tension of the water will hold it down. They are manufactured in one pass on a CNC router table. Putting the mesh on the bottom keeps them from having to flip them over and reset. I actually have mine on upside down right now until I get a chance to reconfigure my pumps. __________________ Mark Beware the light at the end of the tunnel. Sometimes it's a train. Current Tank Info: 120, LED, Bare Bottom, SPS/LPS

07/25/2017, 12:53 PM	#3
JTL Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Venice Island, FL Posts: 2,532	Mark, how thick is the poly-carbonate? I wonder if I could get one made for less money. The material is kind of expensive, but the shipping is like $40. __________________ John 100 gallon DT and 50 gallon sump with refugium. Reefbreeders Photon V2+.

07/25/2017, 01:38 PM	#4
Wazzel Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Houma, LA Posts: 4,743	Fairly sure it is 3/8", but not home to confirm. Was going to build it myself since the material is about half the cost of getting one from artfully acrylic, but once I figured in the cost of all the tooling I needed to build one it was not much of a cost savings for the risk of messing up the poly carb. Oh and IMO the lock for the feed door is not worth the extra cost. I found it to be an inconvenience and took it off. __________________ Mark Beware the light at the end of the tunnel. Sometimes it's a train. Current Tank Info: 120, LED, Bare Bottom, SPS/LPS

07/25/2017, 02:06 PM	#5
JTL Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Venice Island, FL Posts: 2,532	I really don't like tank covers but without one my choice of nice looking fish is limited. I built a couple of them in the past, one out of aluminum window screen material like the typical diy ones and it was flimsy and ugly. Then I tried to make one out of some strips of acrylic, that was better but I had to glue the screening material onto the acrylic frame and that was not great. __________________ John 100 gallon DT and 50 gallon sump with refugium. Reefbreeders Photon V2+.

07/25/2017, 03:36 PM	#6
JTL Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Venice Island, FL Posts: 2,532	Mark, please check the thickness and the width for me. Thanks. __________________ John 100 gallon DT and 50 gallon sump with refugium. Reefbreeders Photon V2+.

07/25/2017, 05:21 PM	#7
Wazzel Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Houma, LA Posts: 4,743	The material is 3/8" thick and the flange is 2" wide. I have about 1/16" clear in both the length and width so it sits down a little. The tabs that hold it up are 1/16" thick. __________________ Mark Beware the light at the end of the tunnel. Sometimes it's a train. Current Tank Info: 120, LED, Bare Bottom, SPS/LPS

07/25/2017, 05:32 PM	#8
JTL Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Venice Island, FL Posts: 2,532	Thanks. Thinking about making one out of strips of polycarb. I would need to glue the ends with Weldon 16 and cut the groove with my dremel. Under $100 but not as nice as the Artfully Arcrlic. __________________ John 100 gallon DT and 50 gallon sump with refugium. Reefbreeders Photon V2+.

07/25/2017, 07:57 PM	#9
Wazzel Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Houma, LA Posts: 4,743	Hope it works out. Let me know how it goes please. __________________ Mark Beware the light at the end of the tunnel. Sometimes it's a train. Current Tank Info: 120, LED, Bare Bottom, SPS/LPS

07/26/2017, 06:45 AM	#11
JTL Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Venice Island, FL Posts: 2,532	I bet the screening material is difficult to get both tight and straight, especially it they use the type with 1/4" holes. Wazzel mentioned that they should put the groove for the spline on the top to minimize the sagging. They probably think it looks better on the bottom. If I build one it won't look as refined because it will be constructed of 2" wide strips of poly-carbonate that will need to be joined at the corners. I calculated that I can build the top for about $70. __________________ John 100 gallon DT and 50 gallon sump with refugium. Reefbreeders Photon V2+.

07/26/2017, 09:10 AM	#13
JTL Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Venice Island, FL Posts: 2,532	How far in from the edge is the channel for the spline? __________________ John 100 gallon DT and 50 gallon sump with refugium. Reefbreeders Photon V2+.

07/26/2017, 09:39 AM	#14
Wazzel Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Houma, LA Posts: 4,743	I will check when I get home and let you know. __________________ Mark Beware the light at the end of the tunnel. Sometimes it's a train. Current Tank Info: 120, LED, Bare Bottom, SPS/LPS

07/27/2017, 12:04 PM	#20
Wazzel Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Houma, LA Posts: 4,743	Need to decide on what spline to use since there are a few to choose from. Either a regular slot or dove tail slot the same or one size smaller is what I would use. Using a dremel should not be an issue. __________________ Mark Beware the light at the end of the tunnel. Sometimes it's a train. Current Tank Info: 120, LED, Bare Bottom, SPS/LPS

07/27/2017, 12:28 PM	#22
Wazzel Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Houma, LA Posts: 4,743	If you have a table saw you can rip the slot in. IIRC a saw blade is 1/8" thick. __________________ Mark Beware the light at the end of the tunnel. Sometimes it's a train. Current Tank Info: 120, LED, Bare Bottom, SPS/LPS

07/27/2017, 12:41 PM	#23
JTL Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Venice Island, FL Posts: 2,532	I have one but that is a dangerous proposition with poly-carbonate. It could easily get jammed and break/splinter. The plastic company would not even consider a groove at 1" from the edge for safety reasons. At least that is what they told me. __________________ John 100 gallon DT and 50 gallon sump with refugium. Reefbreeders Photon V2+. Last edited by JTL; 07/27/2017 at 03:08 PM.