How to reduce phosphates?

[ozorowsky]

Hey all! My tank has been running about a month now, all levels are perfect except my phosphates are about 2.0

Im confused as to how to bring phosphates down; should I get a gfo reactor or bio pellet reactor or are they the same?

My Nitrates are reading 0 for what its worth.

Thanks!

[Tcox]

You may have to give us a little more to go on (I know there’s a lot to type). The best thing is to first identify your source of phosphates. It’s most likely your water, feeding habits, or leaching from your rocks. 2.0 is really high!

Are you using RO/DI water?
Are you feeding anything?
Tell us a little about your rocks and sand.
Are you running a skimmer?
Are you running a fuge/chaeto?
And lastly, what test kit are you using?

You’re right on the money about a gfo reactor if you’ve already ran down the above. I will say though if you don’t need a gfo reactor it’s better/cheaper to not run one.

[EdgeN]

Use "quality" water, don't overfeed, don't overstock etc. What kind of rock did you use?

[ozorowsky]

Originally Posted by Tcox

You may have to give us a little more to go on (I know there’s a lot to type). The best thing is to first identify your source of phosphates. It’s most likely your water, feeding habits, or leaching from your rocks. 2.0 is really high!

Are you using RO/DI water?
Are you feeding anything?
Tell us a little about your rocks and sand.
Are you running a skimmer?
Are you running a fuge/chaeto?
And lastly, what test kit are you using?

You’re right on the money about a gfo reactor if you’ve already ran down the above. I will say though if you don’t need a gfo reactor it’s better/cheaper to not run one.

Hi there!

I am now using RO/DI water doing a 5 or so gallon water change every 2 to 3 days. Initially when I filled the tank, I used regular tap water.

Rocks; I have quite a bit in there, FIJI I believe, got some live rock, some dead. I used some carib sea live sand, and some sand I got with aquarium.

I am running a skimmer.

I do have a sump with chaeto in it, and a 1 inch or so thick sand bed.

I'm using API test kits.

[Tcox]

Originally Posted by ozorowsky

Hi there!

I am now using RO/DI water doing a 5 or so gallon water change every 2 to 3 days. Initially when I filled the tank, I used regular tap water.

Rocks; I have quite a bit in there, FIJI I believe, got some live rock, some dead. I used some carib sea live sand, and some sand I got with aquarium.

I am running a skimmer.

I do have a sump with chaeto in it, and a 1 inch or so thick sand bed.

I'm using API test kits.

Perfect. I would guess your issue is the tap water. The best thing you can do is do a very large water change. As close to a 100% one time waterchange would be best. Your target range is around 0.03 for a reef tank, so even with a near complete water change it may take a while to get you to where you need. Your chaeto should help quite a bit but it may take a bit to start seeing a noticeable difference. Sounds like you are on the right track!

Some more of your problem could be the old sand, depending on how much you recycled. A few cups shouldn’t hurt anything though.

API test kits aren’t always the best. I know the ammonia test usually will neve read zero even if the water in fact contains no ammonia. You might search for other reefers account on the api phosphate test reliability.

[ozorowsky]

Originally Posted by Tcox

Perfect. I would guess your issue is the tap water. The best thing you can do is do a very large water change. As close to a 100% one time waterchange would be best. Your target range is around 0.03 for a reef tank, so even with a near complete water change it may take a while to get you to where you need. Your chaeto should help quite a bit but it may take a bit to start seeing a noticeable difference. Sounds like you are on the right track!

Thanks!

Do you think I should invest in a bio pellet reactor? Or GFO Reactor? I don't really know what the difference is.

[Tcox]

You may need to later but I wouldn’t yet. I would see what happens when you phase out all the tap water First. Many people including myself don’t have any reactors and have a nice tank. For some tanks it is nice to have but I think you should see how things go first.

Have you watched the bulk reef supply’s “52 weeks of reefing” on YouTube? I learned sooooo much through those guys.

[ozorowsky]

Originally Posted by Tcox

You may need to later but I wouldn’t yet. I would see what happens when you phase out all the tap water First. Many people including myself don’t have any reactors and have a nice tank. For some tanks it is nice to have but I think you should see how things go first.

Have you watched the bulk reef supply’s “52 weeks of reefing” on YouTube? I learned sooooo much through those guys.

Thanks! Heading to do water change now.

I got a lil antsy have a couple zoas, duncan, and a favia. High phosphates won't kill those will it?

[Tcox]

High phosphate is hard on all corals but soft coral is more tolerant than lps and lps is more tolerant thaN sps. Phosphate will inhibit calcification meaning coral won’t grow very well. I don’t think those levels will kill your coral but I would absolutely be working on lowering those phosphates.

This forum has a chemistry section. It sounds intimidating but the crew over there make this stuff pretty easy to understand. There you can learn a lot about nitrates, phosphates, calcium, magnesium, alkalinity, salinity, etc. and how they relate to each other.

Two things for you to spend some free time is the “sticky” threads in this forum and the 52 weeks of reefing. If you complete those I will guarantee that you will save some stress, a lot of time, and even more money.

[Maggie321]

I'd like to add.... If you are feeding frozen mysis, rinse them well. The liquid they are in is loaded with phosphates to preserve them.

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[ozorowsky]

Originally Posted by Maggie321

I'd like to add.... If you are feeding frozen mysis, rinse them well. The liquid they are in is loaded with phosphates to preserve them.

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I feed frozen cubes. Yes mysis are there. Think bio pellet reactor will help counter that?

[Timfish]

Your tank is new, I wouldn't worry about it right now. My skimmerless thread has had PO4 levels that high for ages. The aasumption OO4 has to stay below what's found on reefs is based on old assumptions and ignored the fact most of the ocean is at 2 mg/l, drops to an average of .13 on reefs and only a tiny fraction drops below. 05 mg/l. More recent research shows coral growth increases with PO4 increasing from .05 to .5 mg/l. Tanks can be maintained at the above mentioned .03 mg/l but only if PO4 input or internal production provides enough for corals.

[hkgar]

I would spend a little bit and get the Hanna color Checker 736 for phosporus. Best kit for PO4.

[Maggie321]

Originally Posted by ozorowsky

I feed frozen cubes. Yes mysis are there. Think bio pellet reactor will help counter that?

I don't use a reactor. I control mine with water changes and rinsing my frozen foods. I would do what others have suggested with the huge water changes to get rid of the old water. Tap would have likely had a lot of phosphate. I would save my money for now and give your tank time to mature. They all have a few different ugly phases. Algae, diatoms, cyano, hydroids, flatworms, all of these I have gone through personally. All of them were fixed with time, patients and water changes.

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[hkgar]

I don't think water changes are particularly helpful in removing unwantedd things from the tank.

If PO4 is 2 a 25% change gets it to 1.5 and after 3, .8. And your feeding will just be adding more back in. Wht is needed, IMHO, is an effective method of export.

[mluntz]

Keep doing water changes and use RODI water. Watch how much you feed and if you use frozen food, rinse it real well. Your rocks will probably leach some phosphate for a while, so keep up the good work. Patience is the key to this hobby! Good luck !

[Maggie321]

Originally Posted by mluntz

Keep doing water changes and use RODI water. Watch how much you feed and if you use frozen food, rinse it real well. Your rocks will probably leach some phosphate for a while, so keep up the good work. Patience is the key to this hobby! Good luck !

^^^this 100%

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[JimON]

What is the best method for rinsing Mysis?

[Maggie321]

Originally Posted by JimON

What is the best method for rinsing Mysis?

I put them (frozen) in a tiny fish net and thaw them under cold running water. It only takes a few minutes. You could also drop the in a bowl of RODI water and then swish them around after they thaw and pour them through a tiny fish net. After I strain them I add tank water to the tiny container I keep mine in because I don't use very much every day. I keep mine maybe 3 or 4 days max.

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[JimON]

Hi Maggie, thanks! To clarify, you do this for several days worth of feedings at a time, then add a portion of it to feed?

[Maggie321]

Originally Posted by JimON

Hi Maggie, thanks! To clarify, you do this for several days worth of feedings at a time, then add a portion of it to feed?

Yea. Because I don't feed a large amount I can't break a small enough chunk off the block and with cubes it still would be about 1/2 of a cube. I only thaw and rinse every 3 or 4 days. I store the remainder of thawing a batch in the fridge and every day when they get fed, take it out and feed them then put it back in the fridge.

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[JimON]

I feed about half a cube at a time, too. Thanks for the info, will give it a try!