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02/06/2018, 04:58 PM | #1 |
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How to keep a clean a QT?
So this is the second time I have to go through this. Usually I have my fish, everything seems great. But the water color starts to turn Yellow and the biofilm is really gaining pace. So the QT looks dirty.
Which is your secret to keep it as clean as possible taking into account you have to dose medicine. Also if you are dosing cupramine like me... Which is the best test kit to read ammonia since most of them will give a false reading. Thanks in advance. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk Last edited by juanmanuelsanch; 02/06/2018 at 06:15 PM. |
02/07/2018, 09:52 AM | #2 |
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i dump the water and add tap water with bleach. i let the filter on QT run for 24 hours. Rinse and let air dry. If you need to use right away then add some Prime with rodi water for a few hours and then dump water and add saltwater
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02/07/2018, 10:22 AM | #3 |
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How do you have your QT setup? Are aesthetics all that important for a QT tank; or are you having losses? I generally don't medicate prophylactically, only when a problem emerges. Use a seeded HoB power filter, maybe a powerhead and you should be good.
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Simon Got back into the hobby ..... planned to keep it simple ..... yeah, right ..... clearly I need a new plan! Pet peeve: anemones host clowns; clowns do not host anemones! Current Tank Info: 450 Reef; 120 refugium; 60 Frag Tank, 30 Introduction tank; multiple QTs |
02/07/2018, 10:57 AM | #4 |
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I have a canister filter already seeded. A power head and a air stone in case air is necessary.
The problem is that if the water is too cloudy or the whole tank is dirty I can't see in detail the fish. So if a problem comes I might not see it. And yes I usually have cupramine running in it always. Thanks for the help. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk |
02/08/2018, 01:56 PM | #5 |
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Sounds like you may have bacterial or algae bloom. Changing water will make it worst.
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02/08/2018, 02:28 PM | #6 |
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What could eliminate it?
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02/08/2018, 03:03 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
The ONLY thing I give prophylactically is Prazipro - it won't harm the fish in any way even if it isn't needed so it can't possibly hurt. I haven't used copper in at least 20 years. I really cannot think of a good reason to do so. As for keeping the QT clean while in use - vacuum up the uneaten food daily, and water changes at least every other day from my frag tank so it then gets a water change as well. After use, as mentioned above - a little bleach in the water and then rinse and let it air dry.
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I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer |
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02/08/2018, 04:29 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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Thanks, Mako Current Tank Info: Returning Reefer - Red Sea 525XL, Mitras LX7s, Apex, check homepage for vids of tank |
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02/08/2018, 05:23 PM | #9 |
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Nope. IMHO, TTM is by far the least stressful way of ridding your fish of the Ich parasite. Properly done (see the sticky at the top of this page) it is also 100% effective.
Although copper can kill the parasite, it is only effective at a carefully monitored dosage that has been shown to be, at best, difficult for most fish to endure. If the concentration is too low, it will not solve the problem. If the dosage is too high, it will take care of the problem by killing your fish. Hyposalinity can also work, but is difficult to do effectively. There are exactly ZERO reef-safe medications that will cure your fish of Ich.
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I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer |
02/08/2018, 07:22 PM | #10 |
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Can I chime in?
You can try running some carbon (ONLY when you're NOT medicating your fish course) and some Rowa Phos in little separate mesh bags to keep the water clean and clear and the algae under control. Remember - remove the carbon when you are medicating, put it back in when you're finished. A quarantine tank is for OBSERVATION as much as it is for treatment; you shouldn't treat new fish UNLESS symptoms of illness show. P.S. - I use Red Sea test kits, including the one for Ammonia. Never had a problem with them.
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Your "fair share" is not in my wallet; it's in my fish tank!! Current tank info: 90 Gallon saltwater 10 fish with a few inverts; NO CORALS! Tried to go reef; didn't work out so hot; FOWLR's for me! Last edited by monkeysee1; 02/08/2018 at 07:38 PM. |
02/08/2018, 07:26 PM | #11 |
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Just out of curiosity is all this REALLY needed? Isn't a happy healthy home the remedy? (right off the bat) Don't get me wrong I've lost some fish along the way, but not enough to set up a QT. Just saying... GL.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/ft/index.php
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02/08/2018, 09:33 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk |
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02/08/2018, 10:40 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
I look at QT as cheap insurance. Best $100 I ever spent.
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Thanks, Mako Current Tank Info: Returning Reefer - Red Sea 525XL, Mitras LX7s, Apex, check homepage for vids of tank |
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